Hibiscus Red TQS - New Car, New Project, cars been here before though.

midas

Registered User
Big day ahead tomorrow.........collecting Recaro interior, collecting replacement lumbar for drivers seat, plus collect an RS4 grille.

Something to mull over tonight and on the journey down. Guys got a set of OEM Valeo factory Xenons I can have. Not sure if this is good, or just inheriting a headache. From what I can see, they will work (ie switch on and off) straight away, but with no levelling at all. Converting the manual levelling from Auto levelling looks a pain. So I’m unsure wether to get them, or leave them.
 

midas

Registered User
Hope this all fits in as researched

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CQ20V

New Member
Trim looks in good nick - what model was it out of RS4? As for headlamps - yes a lot of hassle to make them legal and insurance friendly should you have an RTA. With the improvement in halogen bulbs id stick with standard lamps and upgrade the bulbs. Spend the cash saved on other maintenance/upgrades. Hows the thumb?
 

midas

Registered User
Thumbs better, healing well. The trim is out of an S4, no RS4 logs. Plus it’s saloon specific too, so fits straight in.

Biiiiiiiiiig day today. I fitted the trim, whilst also assisting my mate do the timing belt, water pump, auxiliary belts and tensioners, oil pump, sump pan, oil level sensor, crank oil seal, together with all new bolts, new bottom balancer pulley, new bottom timing sprocket, plus new thermostat and radiator. And breath...................
 

midas

Registered User
Trim is in, all 4 door cards with carbon trim swapped over. Plug and play front seals. Rear seats were easy once I figured out how the split centres came out.
Figured out why my stereo sounds rubbish too. Somebody has removed the original woofers, and replaced with some really scabby co-axials. Not good. I’ve not even bothered putting front speakers back in. The good news is, I’ve already got speaker adapters. Just need to buy some decent quality components now, and replace everything and start again.
Really happy with these seats, really comfortable.

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midas

Registered User
Stripped the front off the car, then got cracking removing the timing components.
I bought a tool that would hold the bottom sprocket still whilst we swung on a scaffold pole to undo the bottom crank bolt. But.......my mate got hold of my ‘big boy’ M18 gun out, and with one strike, the bolts was out. No need for my tool then. Once the crank seal was out and the journal cleaned, the new crank seal was installed using the installation tool I bought from ECS Tuning in the states. Timing belts and pulleys etc all installed, spun the engine over twice, all marks lined up. Great, now time for the hard part.
Sooooo, all front engine mount bolts removed, rear trans mount nuts loosed to the last threads. A jack was put underneath the a/c compressor housing and the engine was lifted up until the gearbox pretty much hit the firewall. The engine mount console was then removed from the engine block. All bolts removed from the sump (that sounds really easy but it’s not) and the sump comes away with a light hammer tap. Removal of the baffle, then realise that the oil pump still won’t drop down as it hits the subframe. Solution, I bolts the lower half of the oil pump from the upper half, and drops straight out. Reinstall action is a reversal of removal. (I say this tongue in cheek, as anybody who has done this job knows it is not that simple.)

The oil pickup didn’t look as bad as I expected at first glance, but on closer inspection, was not in great shape. Glad it was changed.
I’ll attach some images in my next post.
 

midas

Registered User
my apologies one of the images has rotated 90 degrees, it wouldn’t turn the correct way.

The only 2 bad things that occurred, were when we jacked the gone up, we managed to break one of the temp sensor clips on the bulkhead. I’ll order one from VW tomorrow.
The other bad thing.................when trying to get my seats out of the car, I heard and felt a popping sound in my right lower leg. After investigation it turns out of pulled my calf muscle. The pain........I honestly thought I’d torn it. I’m now limping around the house. Definatly no car jobs for the foreseeable until this has healed.
Drove the car home, and guess what..........the oil pressure light is still on. I think the oil pressure switch could now be contaminated and faulty. So I’ll have to change that over the weekend, then that really is it for me, until I’m healed.

Finishing on a better note though, I also got an RS4 Genuine grille off the guy I bought the seats from. Well happy, looks great. Really wants the Quattro badge on the grille though.


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CQ20V

New Member
Great work. All i can say is that this car is going to be the end of you with all the injuries! LOL. Yes pick up pipe does look somewhat clogged. Peace of mind for you now though with oil pump and belt changes all done. Keep up the good work.
 

midas

Registered User
Hmmmm, would you believe the oil pressure light is still coming on. Journey home was just a dismay for me.

Also, because we cracked the plastic temp sender clip when the engine was jacked up, this failed on the way home also, so coolant just ejected itself. It was only a 5 mile journey Luckily. So at work on Monday, I’ll source 2 clips, plus the bung and rubber seal that got ejected also. I’ll fit those, plus a new oil pressure sender. I’ve got a funny suspicion there’s a wiring fault to the sender somehow. I have read about this on another forum.

In any case, I’m glad this job was completed as I know this is no longer part of the problem. I’m awaiting a Oil Pressure Test Gauge this week too. When we’re back up and running going to conduct some tests. I expect them to be inline with manufacturer specs hopefully, which will point towards a wiring fault. We shall see.

Currently looking at component speakers for the front, to replace the horrendous coaxial I found in my door panels.

Got a oil pressure sensor adapter today, plus my turbo boost t-piece arrived on Friday. So I’ll order my dual function gauge in the next week too.
 

midas

Registered User
Only just got the car back up and running today. Unfortunately when we jacked the engine right up, tried one last notch on the jack, and heard the crunch of plastic. Which was the plastic clip holding the temp sender in at the back. Found a metal clip to do a job temporarily while I got it home last Friday, but unfortunately didn’t realise that the one on the bung had gone too. So the pressure promptly spat the bung out on the way home. New genuine bung, seal, and 2 genuine clips later, and a full bleed of the cooling system again.

As previously said, the oil pressure warning still comes on. Oddly at about 1800rpm. Doesn’t come on above that. I honestly feel it’s a electrics fault now, probably even a dodgy sensor. I’ve now bought a Genuine VAG sensor. But before I fit it, I’ve also got hold of an Oil Pressure and Oil Pressure Sensor test kit. So......... what I really need to know, is what are the upper and lower oil pressure limits. So I can run a proper test and eliminate a mechanical fault.
 

midas

Registered User
Oil Pressure Test dial rigged up and working. I have a M10 male to M10 female adapter now with a 3/8 take, for when I eventually get my in car oil pressure / boost pressure gauge. Did some static tests, then went for a run in the car, checking the oil pressure on the gauge all the time. The 3 beeps and the warning light came on, but the needle on the test gauge did not move at all. It comes on at revs between. 1500-2100 rpm. Goes out on e the revs are up. But the needle never even dips.

conducted This test when the engine was at operating temperature (rough figures below)

Idle - 1.3 bar or 20psi
2000rpm - 2.9 bar or 36psi
3000rpm - 4.9 bar or 50psi
4000rpm - 5.5 bar or 80psi
5000rpm - 6.1 bar or 85psi
Excuse the bar/psi comparisons, these are from the gauge mounted on the windscreen. So I may be off slightly.

So I’ve showed some friends already who are mechanics, and they say these figures are representative of a good engine, as it’s maintaining good pressure.

I have some ways ahead now to try and resolve this issue. Start with the obvious.
- Genuine Oil Pressure Sensor (replace previously fitted Topran unit)
- check wiring from sensor to ECU
- Go back to previous oil filter supplier of Purflux, as opposed to Mahle.
- Change hockey puck oil PSV back to original item
- Change PCV out for a February Bilstein unit, (replace previously fitted Stark unit)

Hoping at some point that we will have no more oil pressure warning. I’m going to do one task at a time, so I will know which one is the culprit.

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B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Think I would start with the sensor first. If that is not working then I would be looking at temporary wiring bypass to see if that cures the problem as from the looks of your pressures you don't have a problem. Have you at any point remove the hole oil filter bracket assembly and given it a good clean out? It's unlikely but there could be some sort or flow restriction (gummed up with crud) unlikely but for the cost of a few new gaskets it could be worth a look.

Not related but I would also look at the larger oil filter as in this thread https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/that-bigger-oil-filter.124567/ I run the F revision as 3.5 litre of oil is not very much of the size of the engine
 

midas

Registered User
Halleluja!!!! Swapped over the Oil Pressure Switch last night to the brand new Genuine sensor I bought last week. Went a quick ride out and got up to temps, and no warning. So tried it to work today, asp did then home again.......lol.no warnings. God that feels good to be driving and not hearing any beeps. Thank goodness. Oil Pressure Sensor was the favourite since I knew everything else mechanical had been attended too. It could have been the sensor in the first instance of course, but I’m glad the oil pump job was done as it definatly didn’t look to clever. So now I have piece of mind going forward.

Sorted, moving forward, start focusing on the next jobs.

incidentally, yes, I already use the larger filter that Audi recommend, as opposed to the older tiny filter. I may well put the transporter sized filter on next time.
 

midas

Registered User
Next job.........sell the old interior, and then send the alloys to be refurbished. Tyres were removed last week by Geoff from Chorley Street Garage, he’s still ribbing me about BBS lookalike alloys. I’m not too bothered, they were cheap enough, and have all the hallmarks of Genuine ones. I know once these are fitted, I’m going to want it lowered pretty quickly! Lol.

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CQ20V

New Member
Hi there, lots of work done again and glad you got to the bottom of the oil pressure issue. Nearly spat my tea everywhere laughing at the temp pressure gauge taped to the windscreen - but whatever works right! Do you think the pressure switch was knackered by the slick 50 treatment?
 

midas

Registered User
Yeah, lol, the temp pressure gauge served a purpose. I could have possibly just about got it to sit inside the car, but my mate who has used one of these before, recommened keeping it outside, just in case a seal failed or what have you and oil ended up everywhere.
It very well could be the Slick50 that knackered the switch, unsure, or could just have been a duff switch. I work in the trade at General Traffic, so I know this happened all the time. Just been on a decent run out to Blackpool and back, and definatly no more beeps. Feels good now, and so quiet.
.............apart from, I’m sure I can hear a wheel bearing noise now. It just never ends does it lol. At least it sounds like a rear bearing, and I’ve got uprights to have powder coated and rebuilt soon, including new wheel bearings in the rebuild. So that will cure that.

ive just ordered a new crank sensor, as my next mini mission is to try and stop the car from doing its warm start thing. Doesn’t do it all the time, but when its warmed up, or even if it’s just a warm day, it will take a few turns to get it started. Already got a new temp sender, so 90% sure it’s not that. My gut feeling is either crank sensor, or fuelling. If it’s fuelling I’m feeling it’s got something to do with the carbon canister system, as there is always a burble coming from that area and I’m sure that’s not ‘standard’.


Just a big game with these B5’s isn’t it, solve one problem, move onto the next, and then the next............
 

Sandip

Registered User
…...then sell it to me lol

Done a lot of work mate, need to get out and take some photos soon
 

midas

Registered User
Rectified a few jobs this evening. My power steering had begun to leak for the last week or so. Noticed the pools of oil on the driveway. Then Thursday night with the Mrs in the car, it made a god almighty noise, which I knew meant the fluid had fallen too low, even though I’d been checking it daily. So I filled it up again and got it home. Had a feeling i knew what it was. When I fitted the new rack, no washers were supplied, so I ignorantly fitted the old washers. Schoolboy error tut tut. So pulled the plastic inspection panel this evening, and sure enough the supply union was leaking. Took both unions off, new sealing washers I’d bought this week, back together. Made sure I bled the rack and then checked for leaks......no leaks. So, see how that goes this week.

Depending how my,leg is healing this week, my intention is remove all the brakes, and paint the calipers and carriers, plus new stone guards I’ve got. Sick of looking at manky brakes behind the wheels now.
 

CQ20V

New Member
Have you now got your 18's on? Be nice to see some pics of it on the BBS. Been following a few TQS on ebay - they're definitely on the up.
 

midas

Registered User
Have you now got your 18's on? Be nice to see some pics of it on the BBS. Been following a few TQS on ebay - they're definitely on the up.

No not just yet. Still deciding which powder coating company to use, and also importantly colour. I wanted to go a darker shade of silver with a polished lip as a nod to the TQS wheels. But that’s a big thing for me, as I’ve always hated black or almost black wheels. Which is why I say a shade darker than silver. So still deciding. Plus need the TQS interior to sell, plus the armrest and trim pieces to free up some funds to get them done.

I managed to get my self a Stainnards Gliptone kit last week, with dye matched to onyx black. So over the weekend I was applying dye to the TQS interior. Really pleased with how it came out. Just need to sell it now. When it stops raining I can get some decent pictures.

Before:
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After:

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Plus the centre console is done too.

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Ill list them in various places this week, and hopefully they sell soon. The send the wheels to be done.
 

Rfmacaskill

Registered User
As always, nice work Midas.

I’ve got the same interior but it’s Recaro.

Thanks for the interior dye colour tip, mine is needing some TLC!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

midas

Registered User
As always, nice work Midas.

I’ve got the same interior but it’s Recaro.

Thanks for the interior dye colour tip, mine is needing some TLC!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m doing my Recaro next. They don’t need much T!C in the way of dye, just a few bits. But the Gliptone Cleaner and the conditioner is one of the best in my opinion. When the leather is matte when your finished, you know it’s decent product and applied correctly.
 
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