Nice pass on the MOT. Car should idle around the 800-900 rpm when it's warmed up, so it could be a bad MAF. For the oil temp check the measurements with VCDS, clusters of our age are not the most accurate.
Hibiscus Red TQS - New Car, New Project, cars been here before though.
- Thread starter midas
- Start date
Going to have to acquire this VCDS I feel. I have a Launch Diagnostics computer, which has always served me well. But doesn’t want to play with this car. So VCDS has to be used on a laptop with a cable does it?
Yes...the software can freely be downloaded but the cable is what costs. There are other generic systems which can read VCDS but they’re not as functional.
Check out these guys for all the options. https://m.gendan.co.uk/vcds-hex-v2....jikoDWQwcOGwrAfW867XEE93Woo9ra4BoCMrQQAvD_BwE
You may be able to pick up a SH cable on evilbay or on these types of forums but be warned...you get what you pay for.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check out these guys for all the options. https://m.gendan.co.uk/vcds-hex-v2....jikoDWQwcOGwrAfW867XEE93Woo9ra4BoCMrQQAvD_BwE
You may be able to pick up a SH cable on evilbay or on these types of forums but be warned...you get what you pay for.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ll see if the guy who does all the diagnostic sales at my place of work can sort me out, he may even have a cable, we’ll see.
I’m under designated track and trace isolation now, superb. So washed the car today. Might see if I can get the polisher out this week, get some scratches out. Looking good though. Only been on the road 4 days and had a lot of compliments.
I’m under designated track and trace isolation now, superb. So washed the car today. Might see if I can get the polisher out this week, get some scratches out. Looking good though. Only been on the road 4 days and had a lot of compliments.
Since we’re in isolation week, I phoned work and got the, to deliver a full set of brakes to me. So today, was front and rear brake overhaul day.
Ferodo pads all round, APEC discs all round.
When dismantling the fronts, it became clear why the brakes feel shocking on this car compared to a B5 I used to own. The disc faces were severely compromised through corrosion, probably half the surface area its supposed to have. The pads had plenty left on them. The slider pins could barely move inside the rubber boot/membrane, so I cleaned all this up, and refitted with a slither of grease. Looks like one of the sensor wire plugs has been damaged in the past, one was held on with a zip tie and had copper grease inside the pins. Not sure copper grease inside an electrical connection is a good idea.
With the rears, oh dreary me, they were shocking. Again the surface area of the disc was about 50% efficient, the pads were looking pretty bad too. Once again, the rear sliders pins were awful, with the lower pin on each side seized in. I got the carriers in a vice and got the pins out. Cleaned both carriers up as much as I could with a cotton bud, spun the pins in a drill and got some Emery paper on them. Refitted all with a good dose of grease. They work now, but may not do in the future, so I think new rear carriers need to be found in the next month or 2.
When I wound the calipers back in, all 4 were very stiff. So now they are back in, I’ll see how we go. The MOT said both fronts fluctuating, so we may well be needing calipers too. Good job I work in car parts really. I’m certainly not painting these calipers when it’s a possibility they need replacing soon.
Took the car out to bed in the pads, and they feel so much better, even though it will take another 10-15 miles for the, to start feeling how they are supposed to.
Also fitted the front mudflaps, (ducks for the trolls). Rears wouldn’t go on properly, I think these are early B5, not late B5 fitment. I’ll adapt at a later date.
I also got back onto the diff mounting bolts. They were all tight, I had a suspicion some were loose and causing my knocking noises. But they were not loose. Anybody know the torque setting for the rear diff snub mount? And if all bolts are don’t to same torque? That would be handy. I have a feeling they should be tighter, but don’t want to strip them.
Anyway, fair bit of progress. Hoping for decent weather on Thursday, and I may get the buffer out to make the paint some back to life.
ohhhhh..........and progress on wheels, I have managed to get hold of some BBS CH wheels. Need a refurb, but for the money I can take that.
Ferodo pads all round, APEC discs all round.
When dismantling the fronts, it became clear why the brakes feel shocking on this car compared to a B5 I used to own. The disc faces were severely compromised through corrosion, probably half the surface area its supposed to have. The pads had plenty left on them. The slider pins could barely move inside the rubber boot/membrane, so I cleaned all this up, and refitted with a slither of grease. Looks like one of the sensor wire plugs has been damaged in the past, one was held on with a zip tie and had copper grease inside the pins. Not sure copper grease inside an electrical connection is a good idea.
With the rears, oh dreary me, they were shocking. Again the surface area of the disc was about 50% efficient, the pads were looking pretty bad too. Once again, the rear sliders pins were awful, with the lower pin on each side seized in. I got the carriers in a vice and got the pins out. Cleaned both carriers up as much as I could with a cotton bud, spun the pins in a drill and got some Emery paper on them. Refitted all with a good dose of grease. They work now, but may not do in the future, so I think new rear carriers need to be found in the next month or 2.
When I wound the calipers back in, all 4 were very stiff. So now they are back in, I’ll see how we go. The MOT said both fronts fluctuating, so we may well be needing calipers too. Good job I work in car parts really. I’m certainly not painting these calipers when it’s a possibility they need replacing soon.
Took the car out to bed in the pads, and they feel so much better, even though it will take another 10-15 miles for the, to start feeling how they are supposed to.
Also fitted the front mudflaps, (ducks for the trolls). Rears wouldn’t go on properly, I think these are early B5, not late B5 fitment. I’ll adapt at a later date.
I also got back onto the diff mounting bolts. They were all tight, I had a suspicion some were loose and causing my knocking noises. But they were not loose. Anybody know the torque setting for the rear diff snub mount? And if all bolts are don’t to same torque? That would be handy. I have a feeling they should be tighter, but don’t want to strip them.
Anyway, fair bit of progress. Hoping for decent weather on Thursday, and I may get the buffer out to make the paint some back to life.
ohhhhh..........and progress on wheels, I have managed to get hold of some BBS CH wheels. Need a refurb, but for the money I can take that.
You must have a "friendly" MOT tester, them brakes were in a shocking state. I've had brakes fail with far less surface rust. How does the car feel now?
These what you are looking for
These what you are looking for
Thanks a lot for that, yes those are the values I was wanting to see. I knew they would be different values on different points of that member. I’ll recheck with a torque wrench on Thursday.
the brakes felt a lot better on test drive. Obviously being on isolation I couldn’t go a big drive, so just went round the block. But they felt a lot more ‘keen’ to stop the car.
Yeah I was astounded to see the state of the back side of the discs. But the MOT tester does know me, and knows I’ll fix issues straight away. Even I’d have expected a fail on those though. In fairness, I think the fact the brakes didn’t feel to great and had a hard pedal, was a big part due to the sliders not doing a job, and the ends of the pads stuck fast on the carriers. In effect, the pad was simply being bent to make contact with the disc. Anyway, better now.
having tightened the diff mount up some more, there was surprisingly a lot less noise, even though they were already tightened. I did check the driveshaft play as I was going, which seemed a normal amount from experience. There is play in the prop shaft however. I was trying to feel the diff as I rocked the prop shaft, to see if I could feel more of a knock inside the diff. Feeling the diff housing I could feel barely anything, feeling the nose of the diff I could feel the knock but less so. So I’m unsure. Personally I think the prop needs a recon. Anyway. I’ll put up with it right now. Maybe next year I want a new exhaust (something subtle), so when that’s off maybe the prop can come off at that point.
New clutch being fitted next Wednesday! Thank god. Maybe see what he says about the prop as well.
the brakes felt a lot better on test drive. Obviously being on isolation I couldn’t go a big drive, so just went round the block. But they felt a lot more ‘keen’ to stop the car.
Yeah I was astounded to see the state of the back side of the discs. But the MOT tester does know me, and knows I’ll fix issues straight away. Even I’d have expected a fail on those though. In fairness, I think the fact the brakes didn’t feel to great and had a hard pedal, was a big part due to the sliders not doing a job, and the ends of the pads stuck fast on the carriers. In effect, the pad was simply being bent to make contact with the disc. Anyway, better now.
having tightened the diff mount up some more, there was surprisingly a lot less noise, even though they were already tightened. I did check the driveshaft play as I was going, which seemed a normal amount from experience. There is play in the prop shaft however. I was trying to feel the diff as I rocked the prop shaft, to see if I could feel more of a knock inside the diff. Feeling the diff housing I could feel barely anything, feeling the nose of the diff I could feel the knock but less so. So I’m unsure. Personally I think the prop needs a recon. Anyway. I’ll put up with it right now. Maybe next year I want a new exhaust (something subtle), so when that’s off maybe the prop can come off at that point.
New clutch being fitted next Wednesday! Thank god. Maybe see what he says about the prop as well.
No doubt I’ll be ‘flamed’ for this by somebody, but........I don’t care. My old B5 had genuine mudflaps on, and I found a set on eBay for this car. I like how they stop the sill/bottom of doors/rear bumper being pounded with debris. I also like the way the B5 looks with them. My last one was lowered on coil overs with 18’s and it looked great with them. So I’ve fitted them again.
Fronts were easy, rears less so. Think the rears are from a pre-facelift so ended up being slightly different. Bit of modification with a Drexel and they fit much better.
Excuse the arch gap at the rear, it’s because it had just been jacked up.
Already eyeing up suspension kits for next year. I’m swaying towards an Eibach kit I spotted on Autodoc. It states 40mm though, not sure if that’s 40mm over standard, or 40mm over TQS height. The latter would be a bit worrying. I’m not after a road scraper, just something that looks nice and feels nice (ie not harsh!!).
Fronts were easy, rears less so. Think the rears are from a pre-facelift so ended up being slightly different. Bit of modification with a Drexel and they fit much better.
Excuse the arch gap at the rear, it’s because it had just been jacked up.
Already eyeing up suspension kits for next year. I’m swaying towards an Eibach kit I spotted on Autodoc. It states 40mm though, not sure if that’s 40mm over standard, or 40mm over TQS height. The latter would be a bit worrying. I’m not after a road scraper, just something that looks nice and feels nice (ie not harsh!!).
In honesty, I don’t think it had been used much when I picked it up in June, I said to the seller that the brakes were horrendous. I know B5’s have ‘keen’ brakes, and these were updated to 300mm, and there was just no Pedal! Lol. Then it’s been parked up by me since June. It was always one of the things I knew I had to change, along with the clutch, which is being fitted today !!!
with a weeks driving on the brakes, they feel 100% better now they are bedded in. Can definatly feel the improvement with 300mm up front.
If you think the brakes look bad, you want to see the exhaust. That is on the list for replacement possibly early next year. I’m hoping for a Jetex full system. We’ll see.
Ohhhh, the tribulations. Car went in today for clutch, clutch is in no problem. When they tried to bleed the system, the master cylinder decided to call time. So as my clutch installer is just that, a clutch installer, car is off road whilst I find another garage to come collect the car and fit a new clutch master cylinder. Ahh well, maybe that was half the problem with the clutch movement. Hopefully back on road soon.
was looking forward to giving it a run out to Darlington tomorrow to collect the BBS’s, but now looks like we’ll be going in the other halves Fiesta. Joy.
was looking forward to giving it a run out to Darlington tomorrow to collect the BBS’s, but now looks like we’ll be going in the other halves Fiesta. Joy.
Clutch and clutch master cylinder fitted now, feels like an absolute different car to drive now. So enjoyable to drive when your not fighting with the clutch balance to get it to move. I’m not sure how it happened, but in 2014 a new master cylinder reservoir was installed for the brakes and clutch. These must be universal for Auto and Manual, but you need to brake though the blank off to install for a manual, makes sense. Well, when this was installed to my car, the blank remained in place. So the clutch master cylinder wasn’t operating effectively. Which resulted in a failed master cylinder when the clutch centre tried to bleed it. So, all done now, brand new Sachs cupyli der fitted and LUK clutch. Good news was the flywheel was in good order.
So first job when it was back on the drive, fitted my Brodit phone holder. Lots won’t like it, but I like to have my phone in view, so I can quickly see who’s calling, or change my music easily, without mauling about in the door pocket etc. Plus, I use it as satnav very often, and I need it in view for this.
Also tried my new BBS CH wheels on, just to see what I think of the silver colour. They do need a good clean. But my feeling is I’ll have the, refurbed, in a light grey, possibly with the outer lip polished, not sure. And I do think it need to sit 20mm lower with these wheels. This was with 15mm spacers fitted to make 35mm offset. Front sit ok, rears could come out another 5mm. We’ll see.
Another controversial item to be fitted tomorrow. Lol.
So first job when it was back on the drive, fitted my Brodit phone holder. Lots won’t like it, but I like to have my phone in view, so I can quickly see who’s calling, or change my music easily, without mauling about in the door pocket etc. Plus, I use it as satnav very often, and I need it in view for this.
Also tried my new BBS CH wheels on, just to see what I think of the silver colour. They do need a good clean. But my feeling is I’ll have the, refurbed, in a light grey, possibly with the outer lip polished, not sure. And I do think it need to sit 20mm lower with these wheels. This was with 15mm spacers fitted to make 35mm offset. Front sit ok, rears could come out another 5mm. We’ll see.
Another controversial item to be fitted tomorrow. Lol.
Looks good id personally stick with silver for the alloys, I think it looks a bit classier. But a grey would look good against the red I’m sure.
Always found it annoying that the front and rear axle widths on the B5 aren't equal. I’m currently running an eventual offset of 32 on the front and 30 on the rear and they just about match. It’s amazing how noticeable that few mm can be.
Always found it annoying that the front and rear axle widths on the B5 aren't equal. I’m currently running an eventual offset of 32 on the front and 30 on the rear and they just about match. It’s amazing how noticeable that few mm can be.
Yeah, when I fitted them, I found this axle offset difference, very odd. The front spoke out, and the rears are tucked. Got 15mm spacers I got with the wheels, maybe I could go 10mm front, and 20mm rear (per side).
And as for colour, your preaching to the converted here, I truly hate black, or dark grey, or even gun metal grey colour wheels on most cars. It takes away the beauty of the wheel design if you ask me. But with the red of the car, I can’t help but think I couple shades darker than the regular silver would look pretty good. But I’m undecided. It may end up being the standard silver. I like the wheels, and we’re 85% sure they are Genuine as well, which would be a bonus.
And as for colour, your preaching to the converted here, I truly hate black, or dark grey, or even gun metal grey colour wheels on most cars. It takes away the beauty of the wheel design if you ask me. But with the red of the car, I can’t help but think I couple shades darker than the regular silver would look pretty good. But I’m undecided. It may end up being the standard silver. I like the wheels, and we’re 85% sure they are Genuine as well, which would be a bonus.
I found this thread on Audizine quite useful for identifying genuine BBS wheels, studied it hard before going to buy my ch012's! If yours are genuine, it looks like you might have ch025's going by the offset and lack of alignment holes?
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/378554-The-Definitive-BBS-CH-CO-RE-Reference-Thread
Despite my comments about silver looking better, I just this afternoon bought a set of old school Superturismo's that came up for sale near me... in gunmetal grey
I think they'll look good but i'm doubtful they'll replace the ch's as my favourite.
I'll leave you with some silver ch inspiration
I found this thread on Audizine quite useful for identifying genuine BBS wheels, studied it hard before going to buy my ch012's! If yours are genuine, it looks like you might have ch025's going by the offset and lack of alignment holes?
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/378554-The-Definitive-BBS-CH-CO-RE-Reference-Thread
Despite my comments about silver looking better, I just this afternoon bought a set of old school Superturismo's that came up for sale near me... in gunmetal grey
I'll leave you with some silver ch inspiration
Super Tourismos, superb wheel. Always loved that wheel, used to have a set on a Golf, and had the Team Dynamics Monzas on my XR3i too, which is essentially same design. Complete *** to clean, but look fantastic.
Seem to be having trouble with the car steaming up a lot at the minute, which is annoying. This a common thing to put up with? Don’t remember my blue one doing it this much.
Found another unusual thing too. I can hear the charcoal filter burbling away now. It happened when I had first started it the other day. And it doing it today after after a drive home from work. Never used to hear that on my blue one. Anybody any ideas why that could be happening?
Found another unusual thing too. I can hear the charcoal filter burbling away now. It happened when I had first started it the other day. And it doing it today after after a drive home from work. Never used to hear that on my blue one. Anybody any ideas why that could be happening?
Last time I had a steaming up issue the heater matix was shot and needed replacing.
For the charcoal system I would say most likely issue would be the solenoid valve, that was one of the valves that was faulty on my car and had to replace it. Think the part number is 058133517 Bosch one is about £20 delivered off ebay
For the charcoal system I would say most likely issue would be the solenoid valve, that was one of the valves that was faulty on my car and had to replace it. Think the part number is 058133517 Bosch one is about £20 delivered off ebay
Strangely, the solenoid valve is one of the things I replaced, with a brand new Bosch one. Replaced the check valve also. So I’m unsure what would make that charcoal filter burble now. A new one on me.
As for the Heater Matrix, might put up with that for a bit, that sounds like a mission to replace.
Yes heater matrix is a dash out job, did the one on my B5 a couple of months back.
Well, I’ll put it on the list of jobs to do, when it’s your daily, becomes a chore to get it done in good time.
Next jobs really, are new windscreen, and hopefully all the seals too. Then visit my local ‘dents out’ guy and get all the dents pulled out of the bodywork.
Read up on that gurgling. It would appear I may be hearing a gurgling from behind me, not in front of me, which makes it the tank. Something to do with it being a Quattro and the fuel tank arrangement. I’m going to fill it up tomorrow, and see if it still does it. My hunch is it will stop. We shall see.
Next jobs really, are new windscreen, and hopefully all the seals too. Then visit my local ‘dents out’ guy and get all the dents pulled out of the bodywork.
Read up on that gurgling. It would appear I may be hearing a gurgling from behind me, not in front of me, which makes it the tank. Something to do with it being a Quattro and the fuel tank arrangement. I’m going to fill it up tomorrow, and see if it still does it. My hunch is it will stop. We shall see.
With a half full tank, I’ve not heard the gurgling sound again. I’ll keep an eye on it. Been a drive out to Southport today to collect a Bike. I do like how you can surprise some car drivers with this car, they just don’t think a 20 year old car will pick its skirt up and outrun them, easily. I do however now have a wheel bearing noise from the rear. Oh well.
Was good to meet a fellow member today, in sunny Bolton. Spotted driving to work. Dawned on me when I’d gotten into work, I should have got your number, or Facebook name at least.
Was good to meet a fellow member today, in sunny Bolton. Spotted driving to work. Dawned on me when I’d gotten into work, I should have got your number, or Facebook name at least.
Hi mate, it was me 
Sandip Tailor, feel free to add me, next time you're free give me a shout
Sandip Tailor, feel free to add me, next time you're free give me a shout
Hi mate, it was me
Sandip Tailor, feel free to add me, next time you're free give me a shout
Thats great Sandip. Thanks very much, always good to know someone in the same area, and love the silver B5 mate.
I’ll try, easiest way is get yourself on this Autodoc app, the parts are all on their, with multiple suppliers at different price points. Also depends how much of the PCV system you need. I’ll include some OE numbers below for the various parts I used.Can you link me the parts for replacing the pcv system?
T- Piece hose - 06A103247
Main breather hose - 058103213
Engine breather valve - 035103245A
Plastic breather housing - 037103772b
Those are the components I renewed.
Arty farty shots, only the second time I’ve washed it since it’s been on the road. Not done the inside yet, need more daylight. I have cleaned the windows inside though, they kept steaming up for fun, and they looked dirty as hell. I was right, cloth was absolutely minging when I’d finished. Also had to throw a few air con bombs through the system, as I’ve had nothing but breathing problems since driving this car daily. So just eliminating the mould/mildew problem on the heat exchanger.
Wind Deflectors are now fitted. I really only wanted the front ones, but I’ve fitted the rears to see if they grow on me. I honestly only think the rears look ok on Avants. I just don’t like the way the rear point downwards. But hey ho, see if I like them in a few weeks.
Got a subtle modification arriving this week too. Hopefully be here Saturday.
Wind Deflectors are now fitted. I really only wanted the front ones, but I’ve fitted the rears to see if they grow on me. I honestly only think the rears look ok on Avants. I just don’t like the way the rear point downwards. But hey ho, see if I like them in a few weeks.
Got a subtle modification arriving this week too. Hopefully be here Saturday.
New parts arrived today. Really happy with the condition of these. I don’t think it will ruin the look of a TQS interior, and I love the carbon. Blue weave too. Just have to work out how to fit them now. Think I’m good with the doors, just unsure on the dashboard ones. Anybody seen any guides anywhere?
I’d really love the carbon gear lever surround too, but apparently these are like rocking horse doodoo.
I’d really love the carbon gear lever surround too, but apparently these are like rocking horse doodoo.
I removed/refitted these to a previous car.
As you say doors are easy but the dash pieces are a little tricky. It was a while ago now but from memory you’ll need to drop the glove box and the trim under the steering wheel. I remember being able to access all of the clips bar one right in the middle. I ended up just using a bit of brute force to pop it off. When fitting the new trim, again I was able to clip it in at every point bar the very middle one. So I never bothered and it sat just fine, you’d never have known.
Did your new trim come with all the clips? The standard trim uses different clips so can’t be reused with the carbon trim, or at least this was the case when I replaced the aluminium trim with carbon.
You’re right about the gear surround - and if you do find one you’ll pay in excess of £150.
As you say doors are easy but the dash pieces are a little tricky. It was a while ago now but from memory you’ll need to drop the glove box and the trim under the steering wheel. I remember being able to access all of the clips bar one right in the middle. I ended up just using a bit of brute force to pop it off. When fitting the new trim, again I was able to clip it in at every point bar the very middle one. So I never bothered and it sat just fine, you’d never have known.
Did your new trim come with all the clips? The standard trim uses different clips so can’t be reused with the carbon trim, or at least this was the case when I replaced the aluminium trim with carbon.
You’re right about the gear surround - and if you do find one you’ll pay in excess of £150.
You know the paying £150 for a gear surround, doesn’t really phase me, I thought they would be about that cost. I’ve emailed somebody in Europe to see if they have stock, so we’ll see.
Now you mention clips, this is a good point, sure these said they would come with clips but I haven’t seen any. I’ll look into this.
Now you mention clips, this is a good point, sure these said they would come with clips but I haven’t seen any. I’ll look into this.
Got the dashboard trims fitted today. Little bit fiddly, just followed a guide somebody has made on Audizine, and it went just as it said. No damage occurred which is good. I think they look pretty good. In fairness the aluminium ones of the TQS look great too, so it’s hard to say which look better, but i do like the carbon trims personally.
Just ordered a load of stuff from Autodoc again, so can replace the leaking foglamps, the rear caliper carriers that have had it. Few other bits.
Just ordered a load of stuff from Autodoc again, so can replace the leaking foglamps, the rear caliper carriers that have had it. Few other bits.
Looks great, the carbon compliments the darker interior perfectly. The aluminium trim is just a little too light in my opinion. I’ve had a set in the loft for years, don’t think it’s worth much unfortunately 
Installed a Nextbase 622 dash cam today, other jobs have gone a bit slow since it turned cold and dark. 2 large boxes of parts arriving from AUTODOC this week though, so soon be on the spanner’s again.
I just hate working on the drive in the damp and freezing weather, times like this I wish I had a garage.
I just hate working on the drive in the damp and freezing weather, times like this I wish I had a garage.
More boxes full of parts today from AUTODOC. I’ll try and get some of these fitted this weekend hopefully. Try an air mass sensor, see if that solves some issues.
Box full of parts for the timing belt change as well. Full kit including hydraulic element from SNR. Plus I got the gates auxiliary belt kit, with all 3 belts and both tensioner. Try and change the crank seal while we’re in there. Weird how this week the main aux tensioner has started making a noise, so good job it’s replacement is here.
Got another package arriving this week too, after a nudge from S4Muzza. And, I’ll have some Latin-x arriving at some point too.
Box full of parts for the timing belt change as well. Full kit including hydraulic element from SNR. Plus I got the gates auxiliary belt kit, with all 3 belts and both tensioner. Try and change the crank seal while we’re in there. Weird how this week the main aux tensioner has started making a noise, so good job it’s replacement is here.
Got another package arriving this week too, after a nudge from S4Muzza. And, I’ll have some Latin-x arriving at some point too.
