HIDs Fitted - Not impressed at all!

j033y

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So i finally got round to fitting my HID kit from HIDS Direct

single-beam-canbus-pro-hid-conversion-kit-p-453.html
Single beam Canbus Pro HID Conversion kit - Xenon HID Headlight Upgrade Kits from HIDs DIRECT Ltd

picture of one in and one original halogen bulb:

014bc761.jpg


So after first night with them in i thought "these are dull" as they pointed right at the floor, so decided to raise the angle of the lights thinking I had knocked them out of line when installing.

So i read all the posts on how to raise them, parked against a shed and lined them up, maybe a little high i thought, but i could always lower them with the little knob next to the light switch.

So i go for a drive, and to put it nicely, they're ****. Pretty sure my Haolgens were better!!

714815d8.jpg


Can you see the big dark spot, right in the middle of the road! useless! it just wont go no matter how much i adjust the lights.

72270d1a.jpg


and as above, it is pointing to high as its lighting up the sign very well in the distance.

Then to make matters worse, on the way home on the final test run after adjusting them the ****** DIS lights up like a christmas tree with brake errors, abs errors.

Should not of bothered.

Or is it just a **** kit, thats meant to be brilliant! :sadlike:
 
Gutted for you mate! I don't think i've read anyone else say they were crap for light output, only for DIS warnings. This has always been one of my concerns though, is how much better will they be, and when bought I imagine they have a poor re-sale value.

I hope it is just a calibration thing though.
 
What temp did you go for? The higher the Kelvin, the lower the light output. They should all be brighter than the halogens though?

The headlights need aligning properly, might be worth popping along to a local garage with a beam setter and asking them to set them up properly?

Regarding the brake errors, try re routing the ballast cables away from the crash sensors in the bumper, assuming your ballasts are outside the headlight?
 
id take it to your local MOT place and get them to line them up when i did mine i put the lights back in the same place as i marked it all up and had the same kind of problem had them done at my MOT place for a fiver now think they are the best lights iv had to date
 
What temp did you go for? The higher the Kelvin, the lower the light output. They should all be brighter than the halogens though?

The headlights need aligning properly, might be worth popping along to a local garage with a beam setter and asking them to set them up properly?

Regarding the brake errors, try re routing the ballast cables away from the crash sensors in the bumper, assuming your ballasts are outside the headlight?

They are 6000k I wanted 5000k but the kit didnt do them.

The ballasts are an all in one unit and tucked in the OEM area. can't really go elsewhere.

In all seriousness, the main beam now projects at the top/middle of trees, far too high. Tempted to get them on a beam setter but i have tried lots of combinations and cant seem to get the dark spot out of the middle. the pics show the brightest i managed to get!
 
you will run around for days trying to do it your self mate take it to a local MOT place and also just have a look to see if one of the bulbs has not move in its housing as the clip that holds it in may have pop off
 
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This may be a silly question.... but ..... the H7's are definitely sat squarely in the bulb housing are they? If the bulbs are at all offset due to the length of them the effects will be exaggerated.
 
as above make sure they are seated correct
did you remove headlights to fit ?
also you need them aligning properly
and are they in projectors or normal halogen headlights ?
 
as above make sure they are seated correct
did you remove headlights to fit ?
also you need them aligning properly
and are they in projectors or normal halogen headlights ?

They were fully removed it fit, so that the ballast fit into the OEM position under the headlight.

The bulbs sat perfectly in the holder of the headlight, but i will check tonight to see if they have fallen out.

Also its projector headlights (aren't all B6 A4s?)

Thanks for all the help/feedback guys
 
no not all b6 or b7 are projector
but get them aligned
and if you still not happy have a work with HD and he may swap them
i cant see how you would be unhappy with them over halogen
i have in the past had a bad bulb and he swapped it out
i mush have fitted over 100 kits from HD and any problems were solved asap but never had anyone unhappy with the kits
 
And what about the DIS errors bez101, do most/ all of the kits have errors? It's something that I really don't want the hassle of.
 
i used to use his older kits and had to have the small looms to stop the error
on the kit you have i have not had a problem at all with dis lights
i think you need to call HD up and explain you shouldnt have the bulb out warning with that ballast
give them a call they are realy helpful
 
i used to use his older kits and had to have the small looms to stop the error
on the kit you have i have not had a problem at all with dis lights
i think you need to call HD up and explain you shouldnt have the bulb out warning with that ballast
give them a call they are realy helpful

I am not having bulb out warnings at all, as these are the canbus pro ones and the slim ones at that (see link above) I am just having annoying "BRAKE" and "ABS" lights on my DIS. Not all the time but over the past 5 days about 4 times.

I am starting to think it might be due to my ability to not set the beam pattern correctly. I may have one more go myself, then if I still cant get it right just send it to a mate who has an MOT bay.

I will also check that the bulbs have not moved from when I installed them.

As for the company Hids direct, I won't be using them again. Not because of the product, but more the rude customer services. But that's another story.
 
Was that a money saving exercise do you think? Not to fit projectors to b7's unless they're OEM xenon?

I've no idea to be honest, the B7 lights being a 'droopier' shape maybe required different internals for the halogens - I don't know enough about lights to comment!

It would be interesting to know the differences in performance between reflectors and projectors :readit:
 
....I am just having annoying "BRAKE" and "ABS" lights on my DIS. Not all the time but over the past 5 days about 4 times.

Your HID HT leads are interfering with the crash sensors wiring - giving RF spikes at switch on. It has been mentioned before.
Locate the crash sensors (between the radiator and headlight small rectangular units with a yellow plug) and see if you can slightly reroute it's screened cable away from your headlight assembly - sometime it just needs a slightly different route.
Also when turning on headlights do side lights, wait a second or so then dipped lights. I was not able to erradicate the "Brake" warning but it greatly reduced the occurence when I had the slimline ballasts fitted in the headlight assembly or the Fat ballasts strapped just under the headlights.
 
Your HID HT leads are interfering with the crash sensors wiring - giving RF spikes at switch on. It has been mentioned before.
Locate the crash sensors (between the radiator and headlight small rectangular units with a yellow plug) and see if you can slightly reroute it's screened cable away from your headlight assembly - sometime it just needs a slightly different route.
Also when turning on headlights do side lights, wait a second or so then dipped lights. I was not able to erradicate the "Brake" warning but it greatly reduced the occurence when I had the slimline ballasts fitted in the headlight assembly or the Fat ballasts strapped just under the headlights.

Thanks Woorlord, I will try to reroute these wires.
 
This is a bit dis-heartening! Got the same kit im sure, so those ballasts do fit under the headlights bud? As they were 100% a bit fatter than the depth in the headlight unit.

Surely if the kit are giving errors there is a problem though? The only reason for getting this kit is because its supposed to avoid that problem?!
 
I dont understand how you have such bad results out of a projector lamp as the lamp does the dip line not the bulb,
what are they like when put against a wall pattern wise ?
i had great results as do many and i also used HIDs direct and they couldnt have been more helpful

Photo0277.jpg
 
I cant understand this, the light output on those HIDs is appalling, almost as if the light is not reaching full output. I fitted mine, different supplier, but the output is phenomenal. In my instuctions it did mention 'leakage' if the cables come into contact with the foil coated headlight inners. I bought mine from
CANBUS Xenon HID Conversion KIT H1 H7 H11 HB3 HB4 HB4 3 on eBay (end time 01-Mar-11 12:05:00 GMT)

the code modules are quite large, but after a bit of thought, some sticky tape and careful accuracy, i got the ballast in the OEM position and the ignitor and code module inside the bulb assembly.

Don't worry about lighting up that road sign, signs are made of rediculously reflective stuff so catch light at all distances. My HIDs would be reaching the road beneath the sign anyway.

Matt
 
Right, i just drove 2 hours to pick some stuff up from Leeds and back home, did some back roads on way there and I nearly died. Bring back my Halogens. I cant see F all. I was looking at the beam pattern all the way home and thought "it's just a big blank circle in the middle" there is light (albeit dull, around and goes high, however there is NO light in the centre)

Its so bad, that when a car is behind me, I actually can see my shadow of my car in the road.

..... so anyway back to my thought. I remembered when i put them in, and I am sure i read on the bulb or wire or something that the bulb was a H7s or a H7r or something???

Could this have something to do with it?

As for beam pattern, it kind of looks like yours above but not as bright. :detective2:
 
I cant understand this, the light output on those HIDs is appalling, almost as if the light is not reaching full output. I fitted mine, different supplier, but the output is phenomenal. In my instuctions it did mention 'leakage' if the cables come into contact with the foil coated headlight inners. I bought mine from
CANBUS Xenon HID Conversion KIT H1 H7 H11 HB3 HB4 HB4 3 on eBay (end time 01-Mar-11 12:05:00 GMT)

the code modules are quite large, but after a bit of thought, some sticky tape and careful accuracy, i got the ballast in the OEM position and the ignitor and code module inside the bulb assembly.

Don't worry about lighting up that road sign, signs are made of rediculously reflective stuff so catch light at all distances. My HIDs would be reaching the road beneath the sign anyway.

Matt

My code module and everything is all in a slimline box, fits in the OEM position
 
This is a bit dis-heartening! Got the same kit im sure, so those ballasts do fit under the headlights bud? As they were 100% a bit fatter than the depth in the headlight unit.

Surely if the kit are giving errors there is a problem though? The only reason for getting this kit is because its supposed to avoid that problem?!

Mine fits almost 100% in OEM spot, stick out by maybe 2mm:

8dd28dfb.jpg
 
I wonder if there's something wrong with the bulbs, a defect on the glass or something?
 
you must have got a faulty set
did you touch the bulbs at all ?
call them and get them swapped
 
you must have got a faulty set
did you touch the bulbs at all ?
call them and get them swapped

Didnt touch them at all. Do you think it could be that they are H7s or H7r i forget which?

I hate dealing with them, When i ordered late Dec i changed my kit 10 mins after order via email, they sent me the original i ordered 2 weeks later and then when i emailed again i heard nothing for two weeks, then they got realy bitchy at me saying it was my own tough fault for ordering the wrong thing. they eventually sent it out for exchange 2 weeks ago.... this is why i dread getting in touch Again!!
 
hmm i can call before 3pm and get them the next day
you realy need to call to get the service there crap at emails
that kit looks like the ones i use never seen a H7R
have you still got the plastic covers they came with
 
hmm i can call before 3pm and get them the next day
you realy need to call to get the service there crap at emails
that kit looks like the ones i use never seen a H7R
have you still got the plastic covers they came with

Had a look its a H7c bulb? quick google tells me they are 5mm shorter than normal?
 
yep i get you but that wont make it worse
im running them in my own car
i can honestly say of all the kits iv fitted and its loads
no one has complained about the output you mush have got a duff set
 
yep i get you but that wont make it worse
im running them in my own car
i can honestly say of all the kits iv fitted and its loads
no one has complained about the output you mush have got a duff set

You running H7c bulbs? or H7 bulbs?

The reason i ask, is that i got a reply from HIDS direct this morning (Martin there is a legend, my comments on their customer services are being taken back!) Martin said that H7c bulbs are not the right bulb as are shorter and would more than likely produce the light output I am experiencing.

He has said to return them for exchange, I have replied requesting he sends the bulbs out first so I can just do a swap and return his. fingers crossed! :w00t:
 
Had a look its a H7c bulb? quick google tells me they are 5mm shorter than normal?

As soon as I read that this morning I guessed it would be your problem. A shorter bulb would obviously sit much further back in the housing so the beam pattern will be totally different.

I'm glad it's sorted, hopefully the new one's will be much better!
 
you should of gone for 5k ...6k are to blue i had 6k in my old a4 same problem as you ... on new car i have i went for 5k much much better as for the error codes you need a block that you plug in to cancel the error codes there only a tenner
 
you should of gone for 5k ...6k are to blue i had 6k in my old a4 same problem as you ... on new car i have i went for 5k much much better as for the error codes you need a block that you plug in to cancel the error codes there only a tenner

I wanted 5000k, however they do not do 5000k in this kit. they do however do 4300k.

The block you are talking about is for "bulb out" warnings. this is already built into the slimline ballast, I do not get bulb out warnings. I get Brake and ABS faults, this is due to the huge interference from the ballasts themselves on startup. The only way around this is to reroute the wires for crash sensors etc, or at a guess, wrap the ballasts in lead lol.
 
...........wrap the ballasts in lead lol.

Lets hope you are not emitting X-ray's and require this proposed lead shielding!?
You would use copper or a good metal conductor to shield RF interference and make sure it has a good ground (earth connection).
;)
 
I wanted 5000k, however they do not do 5000k in this kit. they do however do 4300k.

The block you are talking about is for "bulb out" warnings. this is already built into the slimline ballast, I do not get bulb out warnings. I get Brake and ABS faults, this is due to the huge interference from the ballasts themselves on startup. The only way around this is to reroute the wires for crash sensors etc, or at a guess, wrap the ballasts in lead lol.
i had same troble untill i got a cancel block
 
i had same troble untill i got a cancel block

Where do you get these cancel blocks from? and this stopped your DIS showing BRAKES and your ABS light coming on? My mistake, I just thought canecl blocks were purely for "light out" correction, and was just an inline resistor?

Lets hope you are not emitting X-ray's and require this proposed lead shielding!?
You would use copper or a good metal conductor to shield RF interference and make sure it has a good ground (earth connection).
;)

So i need to either sheet a piece of metal per your original build, or get a cancel block as above?
 
id take it to your local MOT place and get them to line them up when i did mine i put the lights back in the same place as i marked it all up and had the same kind of problem had them done at my MOT place for a fiver now think they are the best lights iv had to date


As Simon has said these lights should be 100% better than standard so it may be a good idea to get them aligned properly and also try checking the bulbs with each other to see if there is no distortion in the glass, hope you get it sorted you wont be disappionted.

Jay
 
Where did it state h7c dude on the bulbs themselves? hopfully thats your problem then!
 
The problem is simple.

The projector has a focal point, which is designed around the bulb filament, to give a nice even spread of light.

Proper HID projectors are designed around a standard HID burner, and so again, give a nice even spread of light.

When you take a H7 projector, and install a hacked together shonky bulb, it doesnt take much for the focal point to be off, and you get the result you see.

This is precisely why HID conversion kits are illegal throughout europe.
 

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