Hladex Oil and Filter change prep...

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Hi All,

In order to hopefully cure a problem with the rear wheels dragging/locking on full lock I'm planning on giving the haldex oil and filter a change this weekend. After reading some guides online I'm expecting to only need the following:

- 1 tube of haldex fluid
- 1 pressure pump gun
- 1 filter
- 1 filter removal spanner
- 1 5mm allen key

Is there anything else anyone recommends based on experience? I'm planning on getting it up on some axle stands to do the job, will your average axle stands get the car high enough to manouvre under the car with the gun?

Input appreciated.

Cheers,
Dave.
 
If you are doing this on the 'drive' on stands etc then there generally isn't enough room to hold the oil/caulking gun vertical.. one tip is to cut the nozzle of the oil in half and use a bit of rubber hose to join the nozzle back together to allow you to hold the oil horizontal but direct the nozzle up to the filler hole... and be quick with the filler plug when removing the nozzle after filling else all the oil will be on your face :)

Get the haldex warm too... go for a quick drive first...

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks mate, I haven't got any hose lying about but I suppose I could pick some up from somewhere, just need to get the internal diamter correct I suppose...

I'm tempted to buy two tubes of haldex fluid just in case I **** it up the first time!
 
I always fill through the breather/ level check hole with the drain plug in place. Tube with no gun fits nicely down the side of the exhaust and then use a long socket extension bar or similar to push the oil through as it doesn't take much force. Any excess will then dribble back out. Saves the hassle of filling through the drain hole.
Check the temperature using VCDS, AWD module block 002 i think. Oil should be 20-40 degrees.
 
Thanks for the advice pj123. I'll have a nosey where the check hole is and see which method looks easiest.
 
let me know how you get on mate, ill be doing this later today!
 
I used to do these frequently on my old A3, and I had the brain wave one day of just bending the nozzle through 90 degrees so that I could get the gun under when it was on axle stands.

It sounds nonsense, but it works. No tubing required. The oil is quite thin, and easily goes through the crease in the nozzle.
 
Will do, I'm going to give it a go on Saturday morning so if you learn anything handy later today please share it :thumbsup:
 
Also, how do I edit the thread title? Just noticed that I've spelt Haldex wrong! [type spaz].
 
Mines the groaning noise on full lock at low speed which makes me hope an oil change will sort it.

Going to be spending a lot on this car in the next month :banghead: at least it'll be mint!
 
Does any one replace the washer when filling up from the bottom?

On my ETKA there are two sealing washers listed: 02D 525 655 or 02D 525 655 B

Ta, Liam
 
Mines the groaning noise on full lock at low speed which makes me hope an oil change will sort it.

Going to be spending a lot on this car in the next month :banghead: at least it'll be mint!

Try pulling fuse 31 and replicating the motion that cauases it to groan, if it stops groaning then you've got an electrical issue somewhere. If it carries on groaning then you've got a mechanical issue i.e. either the haldex clutch plates or the diff. I was concerned mine was mechanical until I pulled fuse 31 and the noise went away...it has turned out to be the earth strap:

IMAG0382.jpg
 
Also a cartridge gun isn't required at all, the oil is very thin. Just use the handle of the filter removal tool to push the oil out in to the drain hole.