How to identify worn S3 dmf?

nky_84

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Hi guys,

I experienced some clutch slip a few months back and more recently the bite in the pedal got higher and higher to the point it was almost at the top of the travel.

After following one of the guides online, I've eventually managed to remove the box but unsure how to diagnose if the flywheel needs replacement as well. What's the process and can it be done with the flywheel in place or does it need to be removed too?

Cheers,
Nick
 
If the clutch has been slipping there's a good chance the DMF's surface has overheated anyway and should be changed, the excess heat from the clutch slip could also have weakened the springs in the DMF also.

If it was me i would be changing the DMF for a new one whatever. I know they are expensive but if you wait you can get on from GSF parts, they regularly have a 33% or a 35% reduction on all parts on some weekends with a discount code :racer:

As for your original question there is a tolerance of what movement is allowed on the DMF but I'm not sure it is. You need to consider excess heat that would have been caused by the clutch slip and not just the moment in the DMF.

Shaun
 
Thanks. The clutch only slipped twice for very short periods of time under peak torque up a hill. After that, I took it easy and it hadn't slipped since bur will inspect for heat damage and try to do some reading about tolerances.

I'll take a look at gsf. Previously been looking at euro car parts and they have some discounts on at the moment. Clutch kit for 160 and flywheel for 250 plus bolts gaskets and oil which isn't too horrendous
 
its worth doing the dmf. you dont want to have to take the box off again in a few months to replace the dmf.
 
from a qualified tech, if the dmf has any considerable movement in any direction 'back and fourth' (toward the engine block and away) or side to side (rotational, as if your turning it like a steering wheel) then it needs to be replaced, and everyone else has nailed the question, if its got hot then replace it, iv seen dual mass springs give up due to excessive heat, they end up getting chucked around and cause all sorts of mess, the one in question needed a new box because the parts flying around inside the bell housing caused the gearbox housing to fail. better to be safer than sorry
 
CAR35 is the GSF discount code for this weekend :)
 
Got the clutch off tonight. My newly purchased 12 spline socket doesn't reach the flywheel bolts so thats not coming off tonight:-(.

Took some pics and video. Will try and post up later.
 
I'm looking at replacing my clutch as well but think I'll buy the LUK kit rather than the cheaper one as I plan on keeping my car for a while,

One question though on europarts there are two dmf's one with 5 teeth and one with 10 do you know which one is needed? I've got a 2002 s3 bam engine

Also I've seen a complete clutch and flywheel on eBay for £335 LUK branded, which is a good price but don't know wether to trust them, they seem to have good feedback.

Was it much of a job to get it off? I've done a clutch on old Land Rover before which was a pain to be honest and wondering wether to do it myself or throw it in the garage, also my rev counter is a bit wobbly at idle which I think is a sign of a bad flywheel
 
It's been a bit of a pain so far tbh and requires a few tools I didn't have despite a pretty well stocked tool cabinet. 10mm spline socket, long straight 6mm Allen key and a 14mm allen key for the gearbox drain and fill.

I've been taking my time and I'm about 6 hours in over 3 small shifts. One of which was solely fighting the gearbox off the transfer box which required alot of swearing to separate. Reckon I've probably got less or similar still to go for refitting and working out where all the bits go!!