Howl from rear of car (S3 8P 2006)

Daveyonthemove

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I recently had the rear diff oil changed and used the same 75W-90 oil that I bought for the gearbox.
Over the last few days I have noticed a prominent 'howl' when driving. I never noticed it before the oil change, and there are no signs of a leak to suggest it is running low/dry.

Should I be worried or is it a characteristic that I've only just started to notice?
Opinions welcome. Thanks.
 
I've searched before doing the job and asked on the forum, but never got a response to my question, or clarification.
I have however found a VAG bottle listed specifically as Diff Oil, so I'm going to drain the GB oil and replace it with this stuff to be on the safe side.
G052145S2 in case anyone else needs to know.
 
I think I’d be goi g to your local Audi parts man to check on that oil too as I bet there are different diff oils for different models. Also, most people recommend the genuine gearbox oil as well. You might start getting gear change problems when the colder weather arrives. I speak from experience with this tip.
 
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Thanks for the tip, I'll certainly keep an eye on it.
For now, gearbox and front diff seem to be fine. If the colder weather brings any issues I'll change it again.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll certainly keep an eye on it.
For now, gearbox and front diff seem to be fine. If the colder weather brings any issues I'll change it again.

My Mk 4 GTI was un driveable in the winter until it warmed up after some Castrol gear oil was installed. I thought at 100k miles it could do with changing. Big mistake but the Castrol was put in during the summer when things were OK. Fresh VW oil in the gearbox in January transformed it to better than it had ever been.
Still going great now 25k later.
 
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Bit of an update, and cautionary tale to this one.

On Friday the rear diff oil got changed as the howl was expected to be from the rear, and we weren't 100% confident that the oil was correct so the Audi approved diff oil was used.
Yesterday I travelled from Oxford to Dorset and the howl was still present. We racked our brains about it and thought it could be a wheel bearing, so i resigned myself to it getting worse over time but not needing immediate attention (it's a 'payday' problem) and carried on.
We made it there fine, parked up for a few hours and then decided to drive somewhere else in the area.
Less than 5 miles from our last spot I was cruising at around 25mph on a country lane when the car felt like I was in 6th instead of 4th, so I changed to 3rd to keep engine speed up and at that point the car stopped dead as if I had emergency stopped.
No noises or indication of a failure, it just stopped.
I put the car into first, attempted to drive off and it wouldn't move any further forward than 1 foot before it attempted to stall and there was a crunching and grinding noise.
The car could not be pushed in neutral and wouldn't move more than a foot in reverse.
I knew the clutch was ok as it operated and felt as it should, and the gearbox was selecting gears fine and there was no difference to how that felt, so I called out my recovery service requesting a flat bed as the car could not be towed.
Nearly 2 hours later the truck arrived and I explained it all to the driver, and we agreed to stick something under the wheels to enable the car to slide along the tarmac.
As the car was being winched there was a lot of crunching going on and the car was hopping forward with the rear end leaving the ground and spinning off towards the right. We nearly didn't get the rear of the car on the flatbed.
Hours later we make it home and with the help of fairy liquid under the tyres we slide the car off the ramp onto the drive. Oddly, the rear wheels were happy to turn but the fronts remained locked, so that helped us rule out the rear diff which we originally thought was the problem.

Later last night we attempted again to move the car, and it actually drove fine. No sticking, crunching or grinding. We put it down to the oil not being thick enough and decided that we would change all oils today.

This morning after more brainstorming we decided to check all wheel bearings and they seemed fine, however the NSF wheel was much harder to turn than the other 3, and if you turned it backwards it felt like winding up an elastic band, it got tighter and harder to turn.
On inspection the drive shaft is an original part (107k miles) and is crunching away so we are now replacing that tomorrow along with a better 75w fully synthetic gearbox oil as the 75w 90 I put in is incorrect (I wrongly selected it thinking it was correct).

Obviously we incorrectly thought the noise was coming from the rear of the car and mis diagnosed it the first time, but we are confident we now have the problem and will fix it.
So if anyone else hears a whine/howl that they can't pinpoint, have a look at your drive shafts. It may save you a wasted weekend and a lot of sitting around waiting for a recovery truck.
 

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On closer inspection after dropping the oil from the transfer box and finding the oil to be burnt (in less than 400 miles) and swarf present, it now appears that the transfer box is on it's way out too.
So, if you plan to do any DIY oil changes make sure you have the correct oil and double check.
I mistook Millers 75w 90 for the correct stuff, when I needed a 75w Fully synthetic. That mistake has probably cost me the best part of £1k!
I'm sharing my mistake so others don't do the same.
 
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I dont quite see why 75w/90 would damage your transfer box ?
 
I don't know either Paddy, but it didn't howl before the oil was changed and it packed in shortly after.
Could be a coincidence, but it's worth double checking you use the correct grade to be on the safe side.
 
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Just an observation but i have rebuilt and stripped dozens of old Ducati engines
The sumps have sections designed to trap sludge and rubbish and this works fine on these old engines designed to run SAE 50 mono grades. The sludge builds up over years in these sludge traps and is fine if left undisturbed. The problems start when people use modern synthetic oils with detergents that activate the sludge and rubbish and send it off round the engine again.
You can do an oil change and then 100 miles later have absolute **** for oil with years or swarf and rubbish floating around the engine. Full rebuild is then the only answer.
Moral is don't use synthetics in old engines that have been running for years on mineral oils unless you have flushed the engine or just rebuilt it.
I just wonder if in changing the oil you stirred up the rubbish in the bottom which then got into the bearings and gear teeth .
 
It's quite possible, I'm hoping to find out later as the TB is being removed and opened up for inspection.
In the meantime I'm trying to track down a replacement in case it is needed and my plan is to strip it back to clean up the inside before putting clean fresh oil back in. Hopefully that will prevent a repeat failure.
 
The reason i mention this is because a little while ago i changed the oil in the Diff. ~The garage said don't do it, not necessary. the dif then started to whine. I got them to change the oil again........eventually had to fit a new diff and haldex at over £4k and just 50k miles.
 
Wow, that's an expensive problem to fix.
I don't trust the 'life time' oil situation in the diffs etc, but it looks like they are best left alone if they are not causing problems.