Hi guys I'm looking at buying a jetex cone filter, but not sure what size to buy, I was looking on eBay and the have one that is 80mm inside diamaiter or 70mm inside diamaiter? So which should I buy? Will I need a reducer?
Jetex cone filter
- Thread starter Grale1
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depends on your car matey.
If it's an A3, your MAF is 70mm, if it's an S3, your maf is 80mm.
If you intend to stick with a ko3 or ko3S on an A3, then stick with the 70mm filter. If you intend to upgrade beyond a ko3S in the future and hence a larger 80mm MAF, you could get the 80mm neck filter and use a reducer for now, thus future proofing the filter for further upgrades.
if it's an S3, then the 80mm filter goes straight on.
When I had a ko3S I ran an 80mm filter with a coupler and a reducer down to 70mm for my MAF, this pushed the filter further out into the inner wing as well. was a good setup.
If it's an A3, your MAF is 70mm, if it's an S3, your maf is 80mm.
If you intend to stick with a ko3 or ko3S on an A3, then stick with the 70mm filter. If you intend to upgrade beyond a ko3S in the future and hence a larger 80mm MAF, you could get the 80mm neck filter and use a reducer for now, thus future proofing the filter for further upgrades.
if it's an S3, then the 80mm filter goes straight on.
When I had a ko3S I ran an 80mm filter with a coupler and a reducer down to 70mm for my MAF, this pushed the filter further out into the inner wing as well. was a good setup.
Mine is an a3 prawn, I ordered the 80mm one and ordered the 80mm metal coupler and 80-70mm reducer, and ordered a cold air feed also,
Will I need to buy a breather filter as well? As I have the AGU engine. And what do I do with the peace that is screwed into the side of the air box on the bottom?
Will I need to buy a breather filter as well? As I have the AGU engine. And what do I do with the peace that is screwed into the side of the air box on the bottom?
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If you have an AGU engine you won't have the piece in the side of the airbox mate. That pipe is from the secondary air pump, which is only on the AUM engines.
On an AGU you will have an ignition amp on the side of the airbox, you need to leave the heat sink on the back of this if you remove it.
On an AGU you will have an ignition amp on the side of the airbox, you need to leave the heat sink on the back of this if you remove it.
When I get round to fitting the filter shall I just cable tie the ignition amp to part of the body work then?
also does anyone know a place I can take my car to see if it's got a boost leak? After I fitted my silicon tip yesterday it does feel as pokey a little under powered, I live in redhill Surrey area
also does anyone know a place I can take my car to see if it's got a boost leak? After I fitted my silicon tip yesterday it does feel as pokey a little under powered, I live in redhill Surrey area
I got my filter through today and so I fitted it this afternoon, I've been out for a drive but I'm not sure if it's me expecting things but the car feels a little flat when you put your foot down, but like I said I think it might be me thinking that, I also change the the turbo outlet pipe, but think I'm going to change that back to the oem one I took off. Can someone put some info for me?
I know about 6 different people that have all said fittin an air filter or jetex made there car feel flat.
A lot of people on here and me included have stuck with the standard air box with a green panel filter in.
I think the STD air box is pretty good and any gains from it are, smooth it, and add a green panel filter.
Cheers, Sean
A lot of people on here and me included have stuck with the standard air box with a green panel filter in.
I think the STD air box is pretty good and any gains from it are, smooth it, and add a green panel filter.
Cheers, Sean
I called r tech today and said that I had a cone filter, they said to take off and put a pipercross panel filter in, so now I have to sell a brand new jk cone filter, and put everything back on from the old box including the standard intake pipe work
Dan-Jnr
Registered User
grale1 ive got an agu engine with 80mm jetex cone with 70mm reducer going onto a silicone tip, also i bought a heatshield, didnt make alot of difference but it was noticable, its not until i remapped it and put on a 007p recirc valve that it all came to life. its swings and rounderbouts with cone vs airbox, for sound id say cone although since remap ive not used my old airbox. wait for a remap then decide. are you sure you have it sealed properly? any air leaking will make the engine a little sleepy....
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Yeah it's sealed properly, I have the same as you 80mm with an 80mm by 100mm long aluminium coupler then the 80 to 70mm reducer, and I've put a 3 inche wide cold air feed from where the fog lights where going to the bottom of the filter, so it should be getting a good cold air feed but not working it feels very sluggish I want to get it remapped so we'll see
no its not right but to benefit any real gains i would go remap, mine drives and sounds totally different. more boost so turbo is sucking air through filter quicker, hence more noise and response
Think i found why my car with the filter on felt like it was going in reverse.. My filter has split where the coupler pipe I put through to be able to do the jubilee clip up has split half way around, £50 down the drain I think
all is not lost mate, how much doe u got spare?
insurance on mine is a joke, £470 with all mods declared and a ****** scooby was £490 and an evo £700 all full comp.
definately going back to jap now, cheaper running cost, cheap to mod and now obviously cheaper to insure.
insurance on mine is a joke, £470 with all mods declared and a ****** scooby was £490 and an evo £700 all full comp.
definately going back to jap now, cheaper running cost, cheap to mod and now obviously cheaper to insure.
Quick question when I attach the ignition amp to the car, should I make sure that the metal side is connected to the car so it's the metal to metal?
