Just bought a 2009 2.0 TDI - Advice and tips please

CARL DAVIES

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Hi all,
My other half has just bought a 2009 A4 2.0 TDI S Line, 119k, only had 10 days MOT remaining but managed to secure the car for £2900 which seemed too good to be true, but looking around the car I couldn't find anything wrong apart from the obvious, which are being sorted prior to the MOT at the end of the month.

Initially, having put £20 of diesel in the car to take it up to almost half a tank, we'd noticed that the fuel gauge did drop quite fast and it seemed as though we'd barely travelled a decent distance for the needle to quickly fall to almost empty.

I noticed that the coolant temps weren't ever going above 75'c whilst driving, and would only jump up to 90'c if the car was left idling for a couple of minutes, start to drive again and the temps would plummet back to around 75'c.

The previous owner had informed me that the car had been remapped, and has had its DPF / Cat removed (not sure if this model has one or both of these - engine code is CAGA). I notice that when the car is cold there's a bit of whitish smoke (bordering on bluey white but maybe it's just my eyes!), but the car doesn't smoke badly on WOT. There's a lot of turbo spool sound from the exhaust but I presume this is normal with a DPF delete.

Is there a chance that the remap is a ****** amateur jobby and it's not had the DPF properly written out of the software? So it's still sending messages to perform a regen? Or perhaps is it overfuelling, hence the smoke?


Anyway, so far, the car has had new discs all round, rear pads, two rear tyres, a full oil service including engine flush, air filter and it'll be getting a fuel filter on MOT day. I also checked the tyre pressures and these were way too low.... being at 20, 24, 25 and 29 PSI! Her car has 245/40/18 wheels, does anyone who has experience with this car have any advice on the best tyre pressure to run for optimal MPG (bear in mind this car isn't going to be ragged around as it's for transporting our baby who is due in October).

I've also fitted a main thermostat, which has resolved the issue with the coolant temps and the car now happily sits at 90'c during street driving, and this temp drops somewhat on the motorway to around 86'c (judging by the gauge anyway).

I've used a code reader to check for any DTC's.... and amazingly the car is showing none, which is great news, and so far the car, including the work carried out, has only cost £3300 up to now. The code reader has a livestream feature and it seems to show that the coolant temps are roughly 10'c cooler than what the gauge is saying, for instance... 90'c on the needle is 80'c on the code reader. Does this mean that I might have a naff coolant temp sensor? Is the car still failing to properly reach temp? Since it never went over 83'c from a 40 mile round trip this evening.

I've a few questions though, and have noticed a couple things that I'd like to see if anyone else can help me with..... firstly, the buttons on the dash to reset the odometer / service interval don't work. Does anyone have a fix or work around for this?

What MPG does everyone else get from this engine from motorway and city driving? Just so we know that we're getting roughly the right amount of fuel mileage from our car?

Are there any common issues with this model that I need to be aware of, and what are the preventative tips that you'd offer.

The car has had a new timing chain, clutch, flywheel and water pump done over the past 19,000 miles, it ticks over well, no nasty knocks etc..... I'm probably just being over cautious but whenever you get a car for a good 33% less than the going rate for this model / year / mileage, you sort of have your doubts (and every Audi I've ever bought in the past has had a never ending supply of problems arise shortly after buying so I'm always sceptical!).

Your advice and tips are both welcome, and appreciated
 
Not being horrible but good luck getting it through a MOT as DPF'S if fitted from factory have to be there, its an automatic fail if they are removed. And if caught driving one it is a massive fine and car will be taken off of you permanently.

The CAGA has a timing belt not a chain, off top of my head the egr are real problems on these engines.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 
Not being horrible but good luck getting it through a MOT as DPF'S if fitted from factory have to be there, its an automatic fail if they are removed. And if caught driving one it is a massive fine and car will be taken off of you permanently.

I have to say, that was my first thought on reading the opening post.
 
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Wow guys, thank you for those extremely helpful comments which did nothing but explain the obvious.
The DPF Police are out in force this bank holiday..... but I'd still be appreciative of anybody who has actual experience with one of these car's and common issues they know about, that aren't DPF related (I'm sure plenty DPF's fail on VAG vehicles so no doubt I'd have been warned of the impending doom of her DPF had I said one was fitted, so maybe I just can't win). Anyway, let the passing of the MOT be my problem.

The smoke from the exhaust seems to have gone since performing a few longer runs, just a normal amount of whitish / grey smoke, not black, not blue.

So.… with this said, anybody with any constructive comments (ie: not correcting me on a timing belt / chain), I'd be happy to hear it, and also bear in mind that your advice may help others who have recently purchased the same car and are looking to prevent future problems.
 
What sort of response were you expecting exactly?

You bought a car in your own words much cheaper than market value. It has no DPF, which apparently you already know is an MOT fail - many people aren’t aware of this fact, so I don’t see how their comments are exactly unhelpful.

You have come here for advice - the right people will be along, but I don’t think anybody was being particularly unhelpful. You might want to consider being less abusive in your response seeing as you are new?!

It’s like storming into a pub for the first time, and throwing glasses at all the customers because you didn’t like the way they looked at you. Chill out.
 
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Your advice and tips are both welcome, and appreciated
Except, it seems, people’s advice and tips are only welcome and appreciated if they say what you want to hear. Nothing is obvious because no one here knows what you do and don't know.

This forum has been going a long time and thrives because of its sense of community and people’s willingness to exchange information and listen to what others say. So I don’t think it plays well in your second post to be lecturing us on who might benefit from what is posted.

How about taking @Jon B ’s advice? Chill out and start again. :)
 
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Because in all fairness, I joined this forum looking for advice from other owners of this car who might be able to give me some tips on what to check, change and service based on the cars mileage. Whilst I fully understand that a DPF delete is a MOT fail, I also know that it's an extremely expensive component which seems to fail in a lot of diesel vehicles due to how they are driven and the quality of fuel used. I feel DPF's seriously risk your engines health if a regen cannot be performed, but car's don't seem to want to warn us when things such as the coolant never reaching a high enough temp occurs for say 'a month'....

I can only assume the DPF was gutted and written out of the software because of the fact that the thermostat was stuck open, thus preventing the engine from ever achieving a temperature where a regen could be performed. The result, a blocked DPF and an owner who wasn't willing to pay for a new one. Whilst DPF's are all well and good in their intentions, the design of the component isn't exactly the brightest of ideas and from my understanding, that carbon build up will only end up in the atmosphere after a regen is performed any way. I see it as the car is taking a big dump once a week rather than a couple dumps a day.... But any way, I digress.

I'm merely here to find out if there are any parts of the car that are prone to failure. I'm just getting the coolant temp sensor sorted now since the temps are still not holding at 90'c on highway driving (code reader still showing 70-80'c depending on how much the engine is being pushed).
 
Did you use dealer level (VCDS for example) code reader or generic? Generic code readers will pick up any generic trouble codes but VCDS will query all modules and give a much better idea if anything is failing. It’s not uncommon for a generic reader to show clear and a VCDS scan show many codes.

My girlfriend has the 2.0 TDI 170 engine in her A5 (code CAHA) and that’s been really reliable for us.
 
I just used one of the generic ones, which is, granted... not to dealer levels, but whenever I've used in on other cars it's brought up the same number of DTC's as the dealer spec diagnostic tools.

I've just tried changing the coolant temp sensor on the car.... I would've expected to have found it by checking around all of the coolant hoses / EGR cooler etc.... but I've been unable to locate the coolant temp sensor which has the 2 pin power connector. Would anybody happen to know exactly where this part is located on a 2009 2.0 TDI engine? All I can find online are conversations from people who are fitting one to older models. Thanks in advance.
 
There will be another inline thermostat somewhere on egr system. That should alleviate your temperature problems.
 
I have a 2009 CAGC 120. Bought cheap as high miles, it too had thermostate problem and symptoms of blocked dpf but no error code. I changed both thermostats but although temp improved it was still a bit low. In the end I put an b7 spec 88c thermostat (b8 spec is 82C) in and it now sits on 90 alday. Also stuck some tank and direct dpf cleaner and it now runs about a good as a 120 with 165k miles will go. When I got it it was averaging about 33mpg mixed driving now it's around 39mpg. Not great but I can get over 55 on long motorway run at around 60mph
 
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There will be another inline thermostat somewhere on egr system. That should alleviate your temperature problems.

Hi cheers for your post. Yes I’ve found where the other one is located. I think it will be my next change since the part seems cheap and easy enough to DIY. Thanks for the suggestion.

I have a 2009 CAGC 120. Bought cheap as high miles, it too had thermostate problem and symptoms of blocked dpf but no error code. I changed both thermostats but although temp improved it was still a bit low. In the end I put an b7 spec 88c thermostat (b8 spec is 82C) in and it now sits on 90 alday. Also stuck some tank and direct dpf cleaner and it now runs about a good as a 120 with 165k miles will go. When I got it it was averaging about 33mpg mixed driving now it's around 39mpg. Not great but I can get over 55 on long motorway run at around 60mph

Another great suggestion.... so are the two thermostats physically the same in terms of dimensions? And that one of them opens up at a higher temp? If so then I’ll gladly get that other one back out of the engine and fit one of these. I’ve found the 88’c part on euro car parts for under £5 after discounts.
 
The car went in for it’s MOT today.
To my amazement it passed with only a single advisory, which was for a split CV joint boot. Passed the smoke test fine too and he was revving it’s knackers off.
It’s been on a long 180 mile round trip motorway run today, approx 20 miles street driving, rest was motorways at 65-75mpg, filled the tank before and after and real world mpg was 47.4mpg (trip computer said 49mpg), so I’m fairly happy with that, and i believe it would’ve done better we’re the car at a constant 65mph. Coolant temps still struggling to go over 81’c but I suppose if the thermostat is designed to open at 82’c then this explains it. I’ll try the B7 spec stat if it’s confirmed as a direct replacement, before changing the in-lne part suggested by jargen.

I just need to get to the bottom of making the odometer reset buttons work on the dash, but happy with the purchase up to now.
 
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Sounds like you are making good progress.
Yeah touch wood it’s going to be a good car for the money. Off to get a B7 spec thermostat this morning, hoping that’ll do the trick.

Would like to say thank you to all who have contributed.

I’ll report back with the differences that the B7 thermostat makes, as it could be an easy and cheap way of resolving low running temps in newer models.
 
I would say smoke be a bad map had same on 3 series BMW decent map and oxygen sensor all was well again
 
I also have a 2009 A4 Estate. My only real issue since I brought it a year ago is both rear door locks are tempremental opening from outside. Aslo fuel flap will not lock when doors locked.

I am replacing door locks this weekend as It is in for Mot on Monday.
 
I would say smoke be a bad map had same on 3 series BMW decent map and oxygen sensor all was well again

The smoke seems to have stopped after all of the troubleshooting I’ve been doing. There might be a bit of white bluish smoke for the first few minutes of driving, then it runs clear. I think the map may be OK after all.
 
Just a quick update for any body who might have similar symptoms to mine, regarding coolant temps. I’ve changed the main thermostat with a 2.0TDI B7 spec, which opens up at 88’c rather than 82’c (euro car parts £4.80) , but this made only a couple degrees of a difference on the road, although at idle the temps would sit at 90-100’c, but eventually dropped to 78-82’c when being driven.

So I’ve changed the inline thermostat (eBay £22.50 - part number ends with 1113A) which is a pain to get to on this car, surrounded by other pipework around the back of the engine bay. I’d recommend buying a couple of 25mm jubilee clips to replace the really tricky to get at clips that are already there.

Now the car is sitting between 88’c to 96’c from normal driving, and idles at around 100’c to 104’c (is this safe?).... but the way I see it is, the engine will hold its temps better once the cooler weather comes.

Thanks for everybody’s input on this. I can tick the coolant temp issues off of my to do list.
 
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