Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

[desertstorm]

Final piece in the puzzle before it gets out on track at Bedford on the 15th, pretty much the ultimate brake set up for the fronts bar a stupidly expensive carbon ceramic disc setup.
BTCC spec front brake set up. These are the same calipers used by the current BTCC cars, 6 pot CP9660 and the discs and pads I have are used BTCC items.
https://apracing.com/race-car/brake...on-cp9660-2-3s4l-180mm-centres-18mm-thick-pad

The top teams only run the discs and pads for one race or practice etc. They get through a huge amount of these so they are available at very knock down prices used. The discs are AP Racing 368 X36 mm that are specifically designed for the BTCC cars as the largest brake they can squeeze under the 18 inch rims they use.
The 3 sets of discs I have are all 35.8- 35.9mm thick against 36mm thick when new. Pads have 18mm of friction material when new, second hand pads typically 16-17mm. The discs on the car ATM were on Andrew Jordans car last year.
They were redesigned 2 years ago to improve them with heavy duty Bobbins for the floating disc and S shape vanes for cooling, the standard pad is a Raybestos ST45, They are an American company and make lots of stuff for American racing series like Indy Car. I have watched the touring cars racing and have always been impressed by how quick the stop, I now know why. You only have to wave your foot across the brake and the speed starts disappearing. Normal heavy brake pressure application just results in a lock up at what ever speed you care to be doing.
Only one real issue fitting these and that was caused by the fact I have MK2 TT bottom ball joints. These allow a lot more camber than standard ball joints. However the knuckle on the bottom ball joint is very close to the disc. Requires some attention with an angle grinder.
The complete brake system disc, bell, bobbins, caliper and pads as well as caliper adapters weighs in at 14.9Kg. I weighed a standard 312mm system a few years ago at 13.6Kg.
The 6 pot calipers are well matched to the TT with the piston area only being about 10% bigger than the standard calipers.
Loads of clearance on my rims.

used pads



weight of all the parts combined.



The bottom ball joint does foul the disc. Needs some attention with an angle grinder.






Back side of the disc that picked up a small score from the ball joint. The float is in the discs and not the bell, so the bells don't wear out.

 

[Seanchadwick2k3]

I had a garage tour about 4 years ago at Silverstone with pirtek and can just about spot those calipers in my pictures. They should do you well!

 

[RyanJonS4]

There’s not many threads I follow outside of the b8 section but this is 1 of them and what a build this has turned into!

Ap brakes are in a different league than anything else, I can’t overheat mine no matter how hard I try. Be very careful of coming to a complete stop though when they’re hot, I ruined a set of Front discs with pad transfer and could have only had my foot on the brakes for a second of 2. A couple of cool down laps and even a few laps round the pits is advisable.

 

[jojo]

Final piece in the puzzle before it gets out on track at Bedford on the 15th, pretty much the ultimate brake set up for the fronts bar a stupidly expensive carbon ceramic disc setup.
BTCC spec front brake set up. These are the same calipers used by the current BTCC cars, 6 pot CP9660 and the discs and pads I have are used BTCC items.
https://apracing.com/race-car/brake...on-cp9660-2-3s4l-180mm-centres-18mm-thick-pad

The top teams only run the discs and pads for one race or practice etc. They get through a huge amount of these so they are available at very knock down prices used. The discs are AP Racing 368 X36 mm that are specifically designed for the BTCC cars as the largest brake they can squeeze under the 18 inch rims they use.
The 3 sets of discs I have are all 35.8- 35.9mm thick against 36mm thick when new. Pads have 18mm of friction material when new, second hand pads typically 16-17mm. The discs on the car ATM were on Andrew Jordans car last year.
They were redesigned 2 years ago to improve them with heavy duty Bobbins for the floating disc and S shape vanes for cooling, the standard pad is a Raybestos ST45, They are an American company and make lots of stuff for American racing series like Indy Car. I have watched the touring cars racing and have always been impressed by how quick the stop, I now know why. You only have to wave your foot across the brake and the speed starts disappearing. Normal heavy brake pressure application just results in a lock up at what ever speed you care to be doing.
Only one real issue fitting these and that was caused by the fact I have MK2 TT bottom ball joints. These allow a lot more camber than standard ball joints. However the knuckle on the bottom ball joint is very close to the disc. Requires some attention with an angle grinder.
The complete brake system disc, bell, bobbins, caliper and pads as well as caliper adapters weighs in at 14.9Kg. I weighed a standard 312mm system a few years ago at 13.6Kg.
The 6 pot calipers are well matched to the TT with the piston area only being about 10% bigger than the standard calipers.
Loads of clearance on my rims.

View attachment 204141

used pads

View attachment 204136

weight of all the parts combined.

View attachment 204137

The bottom ball joint does foul the disc. Needs some attention with an angle grinder.

View attachment 204138


View attachment 204140

Back side of the disc that picked up a small score from the ball joint. The float is in the discs and not the bell, so the bells don't wear out.

View attachment 204139

Stopped pretty well the last time I was in it, I don’t think I even used the old setup to its potential because it was damp? This should rip my face off now! Lol

 

[desertstorm]

Stopped pretty well the last time I was in it, I don’t think I even used the old setup to its potential because it was damp? This should rip my face off now! Lol

You would be quite shocked just how much stopping power these have in terms of pedal pressure required. These calipers even have anti knockback springs on the pistons so very little pedal movement required . Be interesting to see how it goes on Monday on the Bedford GT circuit. With a 1 Km straight it should get some speed up. Modified the exhaust a little to try and help with the noise limits they have there.

 

[desertstorm]

Took the car to Bedford for it's first track day this year. Never been to the track before and it's a slightly unusual track as they don't actually race here. Probably the longest circuit of any track in the country the 3.8 mile GT circuit has a straight just over 1Km long. Some really quick cars turned up, three Mclarens along with many Porsches, M3's etc etc.
Had some issues with the car that I never really worked out till I got home and looked at the photos that were taken on the day. I got the aero set up completely wrong with this new rear wing , and the splitter angle on the front was wrong as well.
You can see the rear squatting down and the front splitter stuck up in the air, instead of being parallel with the ground.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/javelintrackdays/albums/72157714735527546/page1
Upshot of this is the handling was very poor, the car would not hold a line in a corner and the understeer / non existent turn in was very noticeable.
Two much rear wing, probably positive lift being generated from the front splitter meant no front end.
I was hoping to hit 150 on the straight but the best I managed was 149.4mph . The BTCC brakes were absolutely epic, stops so quick and no sign of fade at all. Very little pad use
This track has the tightest noise restrictions in the country with an 87.5 dB at 20m limit. I did get pinged in the afternoon so had to deploy the home made exhaust turn downs which did make a big difference. Noticeably quieter in the car I could go flat out past the microphones and set my quickest times with these on.

Surprised the plastic centres in the wheels didn't melt they were that hot. But the brakes were epic.



Modified exhaust outlets looked daft but did the job. Microphones are on the infield on the passenger side of the car hence pointing exhausts to the driver side.



Not quite 150mph , never got passed by anything on the straights but never came across any of the Mclarens.



Didn't have much luck with videos the camera stopped working on my phone in the afternoon because it got too hot and the Go Pro I had was set up wrong so completely over exposed.
An early lap still learning the circuit and trying to wonder why the car was understeering so much.



An alternative view out the rear. 1min 32 watch the s2000 spin . Had a bit of a run with a Caterham, Definitely quicker than me in the corners, he was taking much better lines through some of the corners.If the car had been handling as it should would have just left him.



Short video running down the straight, Using the push to pass to up boost from 1.8 to 2 bar on the longer straights.

 

[Bluepower]

I'm pretty sure you had a fun day, Karl!! Nice driving, but there is still a lot to gain with better cornering(but like you said: aero setup is not well, so that will need some addressing)
Next up is to invest in a higher positioned shifter, like the CAE or Coolerworks

 

[Gazwould]

Great stuff , was that a ". uck" at 1:20 going by your timer ?

 

[desertstorm]

I was trying to get my head around how good the brakes are now. Stopping from 140+ mph that quick. And it would stop quicker if the grip was there. I have now replaced the 6 year old Yoko A048 235/40/18 tyres with some wider stickier 255/35/18 Nankang ARI's. I have another trackday booked for Bedford end of July so hopefully have the aero issues sorted by then.

 

[Sean Wheatley]

Karl, I’ve been running the AP9660 on my TTRS for over a year now and they really are great calipers; much better cooling, easy pad changes, more pad choice, less weight. I dropped over 15kg in unsprung weight by moving to these calipers and a AP floating disc!
The first two times on track with my car were at Bedford, chosen because it’s wide open with little to hit if it goes wrong. I think it’s a fantastic circuit and underrated by many. Here’s a video from my second visit once I’d got some proper brakes; running around 2:43 on Pilot Sport Cups

here’s my first visit all stock apart from MSS springs and street tyres running 2:49

I would really like to go back but the noise limits, even with my oem exhaust, make it tricky.

 

[desertstorm]

@Sean Wheatley looks like you were having fun. I have booked another track day there on the 30th and with some better tyres and the aero sorted looking to hopefully go better than the first day. Noise is an issue there one guy in a GT3 Porsche only did 4-5 laps in the day because he got black flagged twice for noise. You should look into some second hand BTCC pads. The ST45 pad compound is great, no squealing , great stopping power when stone cold and works really well on the track. I picked up two used sets of pads for £120. New pads are 18mm thick they were 17mm thick .

 

[Sean Wheatley]

Thanks for the pad recommendations; where did you source them? I’ve heard the BTCC have a choice of three pads, the st45, a Ferodo 3:12 and a Project Mu pad.
I got black flagged on my first lap the last visit to Bedford for noise (Stock exhaust) but ended up with only a warning luckily. Gt3’s hardly ever go there for that reason.
Have fun on the 30th!

 

[desertstorm]

Hi, I got my pads from Mal Buck.
https://www.facebook.com/rent.arim.56

 

[desertstorm]

Well it happened just over a week ago last Monday on the way to work. The Piston and rod in number 4 decided that they had suffered enough abuse and exited the engine taking a large piece of the block with them. Fortunately I have a fire extinguisher in the car as it went on the rear of the block and covered the very hot manifold in oil and coolant. Otherwise the resultant fire may have finished the car off.
After removing the engine and dismantling it looks like another Wossner piston failure. Several people have had issues with these pistons cracking and then failing causing the same results I saw. If the piston is measured they actually shrink ???.
So before you rebuild a 1.8T think twice before fitting Wossner pistons. This engine has only done just over 3K miles since it was built.
I have picked up an AUM block and head that will be the basis of the new engine. Exactly the same block and crank as a BAM but without the cost .
Ignitron logging caught the moment the engine failed 6600 RPM, timing , fuelling and boost all spot on. The engine was still timed up perfectly when I checked.

Cracks in all 3 remaining pistons, on 2 pistons there are multiple cracks.







Gudgeon pin was in three pieces.



Have several pieces of piston this size.







Engine is being rebuilt with JE pistons and tool steel pins. Hopefully it will last a bit longer this time.

 

[desertstorm]

Finally after the best part of 2 months the car is back to life. Been a bit of a mission getting the engine rebuilt. Big thanks to Bill Brockbank for sourcing the pistons, rods,exhaust valves, and getting the block cleaned and bored for the JE pistons.
Got 60 miles on the car today just running 1 bar actuator pressure and 6000 RPM rev limit it's quite perky at that making around 280bhp according to Ignitron. Will be tweaking the boost and rev limit up over the next 300 miles or so.
Happy to say no piston slap or knock from the JE pistons, The job done on the block was excellent.
Took the opportunity to relocate the Turbo coolant pump repurposing the original hoses. Seemed daft the way it was run from the factory I suspect it was put there to try and get some cooling air so have left it out in free air. Saved a bit of weight. Also rerouted my oil cooler hoses which now go down the side of the rad than over the top. So able to take about 2.5ft out of the length.
Also now able to drain the oil cooler without taking the front bumper off. Fitted the NA exhaust cam as well as the NA intake cam I was using before. In fact used the APG head I got the cams in so car has a N/A head and cams now. No longer a BAM with an AUM block and crank.
Hopefully make a little more power than before.

 

[bobby singh]

Nice work Karl
What the compression ratio now?

Cheers

 

[Bluepower]

Glad to see it up-and-running again mate!!

Got a request: if you can ever get another set of those BTCC brakes for me, would you please let me know??

 

[desertstorm]

Nice work Karl
What the compression ratio now?

Cheers

JE pistons are 9.25:1 the Wossners were 9.5:1 . When I did a compression check on the Wossners the readings were 210-215 PSI. There was very little in the way of a bowl in the piston, certainly compared to a BAM stock piston. The JE pistons now I have run them in are showing 190-200 PSI .
For reference the stock OE pistons with about 90K miles on them measured 175-180 PSI and they were supposed to be 9.0-1.

 

[desertstorm]

Bit of an update on the car, Had an issue with the gearbox after putting about 250 miles on the new engine and starting to ramp up the boost and revs. I suspect it may have been damaged when the engine blew up. With such a catastrophic failure on number 4 this could well have created a shock load in the transmission input shaft. Only a theory but pretty much from the get go the gearbox was noisy when lifting off at high RPM after a gear change. Quite a noticeable and distracting noise, after searching this quite often appears to be due to end float on the input shaft and happens as adjacent gears touch.
After pulling away quite smartly off a roundabout and accelerating onto a dual carriageway selected 4th around 70 mph and met with a rather large bang and much grinding / general noise.
Quick dip of the clutch and determined the engine was OK.
Pulled over in a layby and no sign of holes, oil or other issues. Managed to drive another 5 miles or so but getting very noisy and almost impossible to select a gear.Not good sitting in stop start traffic at 16.30 on a Friday afternoon. On the AA recovery truck again, rapidly becoming their best customer.
Found a replacement gearbox on Ebay about 30 miles away, £100 DQB the same as what is on the car and picked it up Saturday afternoon. They are pretty heavy with the transfer box around 90Kg so decided to take the engine out. Sunday morning 09.30 started and by 16.00 I was putting the engine back in the car with the new box on.
Fortunately it seems to work well so changed the oil and got on with running the engine in.
Very common issue with teeth shredding off 4th/6th gear on the input shaft, there are some mods that can be made to improve them but long term a DSG gearbox is probably going to be the answer.

Video of the noise, in neutral it's silent, lift the clutch it makes a lot of noise.




Secondhand gearbox.



Some of the damage.

 

[desertstorm]

Managed to get a track day in at Bedford Autodrome on Saturday, Unfortunately Boris has cancelled the one I had booked at Donnington on the 16th November.
Got to try out the new Nankang AR1 tyres I bought, Very impressed with these.Drove the 90 miles to Bedford in quite heavy rain most of the way and they behaved OK. Even though it wasn't ever fully dry or particularly hot at Bedford they gave really good grip. When it did rain a lot harder in the day I swapped back to my normal road wheels.
Definitely got the handling in the sweet spot with these tyres and changes to front ride height, front splitter and rear wing angles.
Had some issues with the car that meant I missed some running. Had a major power steering fluid leak after my first run, A few weeks ago I noticed a small leak that turned to be a pin hole on the low pressure cooling loop at the front of the car. It was on the welded bracket where it had gone rusty at the end of the loop. Basically cut the loop off and put a short length of hose on with some jubilee clips. Despite lasting several weeks and 3-400 miles the pipe ended up with a hole in it I think because the bend radius was too tight . Identified a coolant hose on the engine that I could shorten and use so just had to get some PAS fluid. That turned out to be a 2 hour round trip to get the correct Central hydraulic fluid.
Never got passed on track except on warm up and cool down laps and passed pretty much everything else. Car was flying and I was only running 1.6 bar boost for 95% of the time.Occasionally 1.8bar to accelerate past people.
In the afternoon car went into limp mode with 1035 degree EGT temps shown on the gauge. I have the limp mode set so if EGT exceeds 950 degrees for more than 1 second it will goto limp. Turned out to be a broken wire on the EGT sensor plug that was intermittent. Disabled limp mode on EGT and carried on.

It's an older Porsche GT3 but left it standing on the straight. Was driving slower past the first microphone as that is where you get pinged for noise.



More car overtaking.

 

[desertstorm]

Not updated the thread for a while. Had another track day at Donnington but that was cancelled due to the Lockdown in December.
Anyway had been looking for a while for a TTS, Golf R or S3 being broken with the correct DSG gearbox in it. You can buy the gearbox on it's own but I wanted all the parts from one car, easier that way and I asked if they could keep all the bolts removed when the gearbox was removed from the engine as some of them are different to the Mk1 TT.
There are plenty of gearbox codes that will mount to the 1.8T and work with Ignitron. The DQ250 box on the TTS,S3 etc or the DQ500 fitted to the RS3, RSQ3 TTRS etc. The DQ500 is a stronger box, better clutch capacity as standard but is pretty rare and more expensive than the DQ250, as soon as you say RS add 30-50% RS tax.
I decided on a DQ250, standard they will do 400Nm, With a DSG remap they will do 600-650Nm on a standard clutch and upto 750Nm with a modified clutch pack. I plan to run around 550Nm so a mapped DQ250 would do the job. There are many different gearbox codes with different ratios on different models. You can see the difference in gearing across the different models, you definitely don't want a TDI box for a performance car.
The yellow highlighted line is a standard 02m 6 speed box in a 225TT, The green line TTS,S3,Golf R 6 speed box. All the boxes are 6 speed with a transaxle so are 4WD boxes. Because the DQ500 is designed for a bigger more powerful engine the ratios are higher so not quite as good for performance.

The following is a list of the DSG gearbox codes for 200Kw engines used across Golf R, TTS and S3's.

Here is what I ended up buying from a 2012 accident damaged 34K mile TTS that was being broken.
NMA gearbox, DMF, starter motor, Drive shafts, 20 pin connector for DSG box, 10 pin connector for Gearchange mechanism,
Gearbox mount bracket and gearbox mount thrown in even though I won't be using it. All the bolts and the bracket that secures the transaxle to the engine. The water cooling pipes to the oil cooler on the box .The spacer plate that locates between the DMF and engine, he threw in a shifter off a Passat I think that has no knob or display.
Usually on Ebay you might get the gearbox on it's own some don't even come with the transfer box attached.



Still had to buy a few more bits so back to Ebay,I will add some prices and give you an idea of what stuff costs.
Steering wheel off an Ibiza Cupra, The paddles will wire direct to the Ignitron ECU which generates the CAN messages to the gearbox. It's off an Ibiza and only has the paddles so nobody wants them £50.



The clock spring off the TT models with extra buttons on the steering wheel or the 3.2 v6 DSG cars with paddles. Came with connectors. £35 you can get them cheaper but this came with the connectors.



Gearchange from a Passat CC 2010-2014, Will probably bin the gear boot and trim and just mount the display on the selector body.The complete gear change will be mounted on top of the tunnel in the car, so the gearknob will be very handy by the steering wheel. I anticipate most of the time the car will be in manual so either using the paddles or tiptronic to change. £50 don't think they sell many of these they are pretty reliable.



3.2v6 DSG transmission mount plus polyeurathane to fill the mount. The existing 2 bolt mount on the 02M will fit but the DSG gearbox is around 40Kg heavier than an 02M. So decided to fit the correct mount. £40 with the 500g polyeurathne.



The DSG gearboxes can get quite warm on track so there are a few preemptive cooling upgrades. I have changed the thermostat in the engine to an 80 degree one from 87. Actually should help it make a little more power, definitely seeing a little less knock on the top map.
Bought a 40% bigger than stock cooler from Autodoc for £44, It's a Nissen item so decent quality 02E409061C



The later MQB cars have 3 radiators, 1 main rad and 2 supplementary rads mounted down by the foglights. One of these is in parallel with the main rad, one takes the engine coolant before feeding it to the cooler on the box.They are the same part number.Plan to mount this above the intercooler next to the oil cooler. Managed to find a genuine VAG part for £60. 5Q0121253H



The oil filter on the box is contained in a plastic housing which apparently can break when you try to remove it, It was pretty tight on this box. I bought an alloy finned housing off Aliexpress for £16 delivered. Fits and looks fine, won't make that much difference to temps but It has an m10x1 tapped hole in the top which I can connect a temp sensor in to monitor gearbox oil temps.the gearbox cooler and filter are a lot more exposed in my car than they would be in a standard car as they are buried under the battery and various other bits.

 

[desertstorm]

Done some measuring on the driveshafts. Some people fitting these boxes have had to modify the RHS drivers driveshaft to shorten it. The TT8J has a wider track than the 8N
TT 8N
Front track 1528 mm
TT 8J
Front track 1572 mm
TT8J has 44mm wider rack than 8N so 22mm each side.
Measuring the position of the gearbox driveshaft flange in relation to the mounting face on the engine. On the LHS driveshaft it's in the same place . This ties in with the driveshaft lengths 481mm 8N and 495mm 8J . So a 14mm longer driveshaft on the 8J TT.
My car has Mk2 TT balljoints on the front to increase camber and I have CB auto 13mm spacers to extend the driveshafts, So either I can leave my original driveshaft and spacer or replace the driveshaft with the 8J item and no spacer. Which is what I am going to do.The 8J driveshaft is likely to be a better design being for a 300bhp car and is 60K miles newer.
On the RHS which is where people have an issue the driveshaft flange is 35mm further out than an 02M .
However the 8N and 8J driveshafts are the same length 615mm. Measuring the articulation on the inner balljoint there is 45mm of axial movement on the inner joint.
By my reckoning as I have the extra offset from the TT balljoints I may get away without shortening the driveshaft.

The wiring for the gearbox and selector is fairly simple, all the clever stuff happens on the CAN bus connections. The ECU, gearbox and gear selector all communicate via this along with the ABS unit to control the gear shifts.
You don't need all the connections some are related to interlocks that allow the car only to start in P/N and signals that only allow the key to be released from the ignition when the gear lever is set correctly.

The Ignitron ECU generates the CAN bus signals for up and down shifts off the paddles on the steering wheel and also decodes the CAN databus signals for the reverse light.

 

[S3AMJ]

Very comprehensive Karl. I’m excited to see this up and running, many hours of research gone into this I can see. Nice to see you can get the needed parts cheaply.


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[Rainbird]

Watching with a keen interest, Karl. It'll be a while before I'm in a position to upgrade the box on my TT but the thought of fitting a DSG setup appeals, so your detailed write up is very much appreciated!

 

[desertstorm]

Took the car to Badger 5 last week to have a run on the dyno. Two reasons, I wanted to see what the engine was doing compared to where it was before the Wossners blew up . And wanted to get a handle on how accurate the calculated torque values are from Ignitron. The torque values are passed to the DSG gearbox so I would like an idea of how accurate they are. From logging and my butt dyno the engine is stronger in the midrange pick up and top end.

Unfortunately the car did not want to run 4WD on the dyno , It's running a HPA controller in Competition mode. Possibly could have changed it to a different mode but that only occurred to me after. Ran it FWD only but with 2.5 degrees of camber on the front tyres it was always going to struggle. On the old Badger dyno they had to glue the rollers. Have to say on the road have no traction issues at all even on a 2.2 bar map it puts the power down with little or no wheel spin even in the damp. Overall power came up at a similar level to the last run, But at a lower RPM. But since the last run engine has had an SEM manifold added . Never noticed at the time that the RPM shown on the dyno was not reaching the 7800 RPM redline.
Looking at the Ignitron logs afterward Bill suggested I checked the ABS wheel speeds. And clearly you can see 5-7% slip between the front and rear wheels. Thats why the dyno only shows RPM to around 7400 when the engine was running to 7800. Which puts calculated power down about 5%. Well happy with the EGT's considering this was the 3rd run with no WMI fitting the NA exhaust cam this time along with the intake has lowered these and seems to have picked up the boost earlier as well.



Indeed the engine has the complete APG cylinder head I bought to get the APG cams. So a standard small port N/A head with Rosten springs and Supertech Inconel valves.
Boost control needs some work, It's fine on the road 2nd,3rd,4th gear pulls .On the dyno in 5th gear turbo spools earlier and boost spikes 0.2-0.3 bar more than the target.
Calculated torque and power on Ignitron seem to be about 10-15% lower than the dyno results. Which is consistent with previous dyno runs. Probably varies across different engines and tunes.

 

[S3AMJ]

Cars running strong Karl with the small port, would you contemplate changing to a large port or ported small port. It’s a really awesome setup they’ve got there at Badger5’s new premises isn’t it.


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[desertstorm]

I saw an AGU large port head on fleabay the other day, £90 just up the road from me. I considered it but I have stuck with the small port because it has advantages over large port heads. If I was building an engine to shoot for the biggest numbers I would go large port and run WMI . On track most of the time I only run it 1.6-1.8 bar which is 450-480bhp. Badger 5's new facility is a lot better than the old place. So much room.
The 2.2 bar run was to see how much extra torque infill you get. Well within the capability of the turbo and probably leave that map for 1/4 mile runs and the like.

Since the gearbox blew up a few months ago I run limited boost on 4th and 6th gear to try and help the gearbox a bit. Doing some logging on a private road with a fairly lazy shift 3-4th it did 60-110 in less than 5s. This was a flat surface and the Ignitron recorded speed is within 1mph of GPS speed on my satnav.
60-110 mph in 5 seconds.
Be interesting to see what it does a little less limited with a DSG gearbox.

 

[S3AMJ]

I’m guessing the main advantages of the small port is velocity? Better spool.


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[desertstorm]

Yes higher port velocity helps filling at lower RPM and consequently spool. You get good mixing of air / fuel.

 

[S3AMJ]

Yeah makes good sense to me. You planning on doing a mixed bag of track events next year? I remembered you did some drag last year. You thought about time attack?


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[desertstorm]

No not doing anything too competitive. I will probably take it to Santa Pod when the DSG is all sorted just to see what it will do. Really just want to do some track days.

 

[S3AMJ]

I’d like to try and get a few of us together for some track days next year if your game? Like you said, nothing competitive, just fun. I have missed a trick not getting the CP9660 brake kit. It’s now on my wish list, curious to see how well the CP5570 kit I’m currently refurbishing will turn out.


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[desertstorm]

I am all up for that , problem with having really good brakes is it's very easy to slow down too much . If you press the brake pedal in my car the same as you would in a normal TT /S3 to stop normally you are doing an emergency stop.

 

[S3AMJ]

Haha yeah I can imagine, have you changed your rear brake set up to compensate at all? I’ve ordered Paul Cooks S4 rear conversion with Wilwood 300x22. Not sure it’ll make a huge difference but figured prawny recommended them they were worth a shout.


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[desertstorm]

Yes upgraded the rear brakes a while ago after I fitted the RS3 calipers with 334mm V6 discs the brake bias was completely wrong, the car just stood on it's nose when you braked. Fitted larger piston calipers on the stock discs. You really don't need big discs on the rear especially in my car there is little weight and only about 25% of the braking happens at the rear. The stock pad size is small so you are never going to generate that much heat .
The caliper I fitted has a 43mm piston as opposed to a 38mm piston. Makes a big difference in clamping pressure on the disc.
With Pagid RS4-2 pads the rears work really well.
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threa...sg-gearbox-upgrade.319422/page-4#post-3255700

 

[S3AMJ]

Thanks Karl, I forgot how in depth your thread was mate. I’ll have a good read over these next few days. I like the idea of changing the rear caliper size. Same mounting positions? What was the caliper off?


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[desertstorm]

All the details are in the post. I got the calipers from Autodoc, Ridex items. It's not a straight swap as you need some different flexis and some small modding of the bracket that the handbrake cable connects too.

 

[ADs3]

Thanks for sharing the in depth info on the dsg there karl, I see someone on fb bt group doing a dsg conversion but seems to of been nothing but issues for him but i think he's updated lately that it's all up & running now.

40kg over a 02m! That must've tested ya back........I was fairly surprised at the weight of my 02m even without the transfer box when I removed it recently to install the quaife lsd & do the shifter forks.

Just out of interest what does your tt weight in atm?

 

[desertstorm]

The extra weight of the gearbox is partially explained by the weight of the clutch which is an integral part of the gearbox. I don't think the 02M gearbox weight will include a clutch. Doing a lot of research the weight difference between a manual Golf R and DSG version is around 25-30Kg tops.
I can remove the clutch pedal and slave cylinder and the DSG gear selector has got to be a few Kg's less than the manual one as it's pretty much all plastic. Last time the TT was weighed it came in around 1300Kg with 1/4 tank of fuel and no driver. I have taken some bits and pieces of it since then , probably 10Kg or so. I did manage to lift the gearbox out of the boot of the car on my own but I will be enlisting the help of some of my neighbours to put it in the TT. Socially distanced of course.

 

[jojo]

Fantastic progress Karl, it’s already a monster with a manual box, DSG will take it to another level!