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Cracking thread this! Well done what a lot of work you have done for the benefit of others too! 
My A6 3.0TDi Avant bit of a rebuild and repair thread.
- Thread starter B5NUT
- Start date
Cheers
Not much done over the last week, I dropped the car off on Thursday to have the tail gate resprayed.
The body shop I use is very good, and they let me strip the car down as I would rather do that so no damage to any trims or connectors.
Also picked these up from TPS, they are genuine Audi LED number plate lights and cost just over £30 for the pair, and they are fully error free even on my 2006 model A6. Part numbers are 4H0 943 021 and 4H0 943 022.
Not much done over the last week, I dropped the car off on Thursday to have the tail gate resprayed.
The body shop I use is very good, and they let me strip the car down as I would rather do that so no damage to any trims or connectors.
Also picked these up from TPS, they are genuine Audi LED number plate lights and cost just over £30 for the pair, and they are fully error free even on my 2006 model A6. Part numbers are 4H0 943 021 and 4H0 943 022.
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Could you post a picture up of the LED number plate lights when its up and running please, at night?
I have been wanting to do this but dont like the crazy bright after market ones.
Thanks
I have been wanting to do this but dont like the crazy bright after market ones.
Thanks
Best I could get was these, have to say against the yellow number plate they are very good not to bright and match the cars rear LED lights.
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Not done much over the last week, but had a chance to put the badges back on the car, I know some people like the de-badge look but I hatted it, was just waiting for the paint to harden before I stuck the badges back on.
Also purchased these today for a bargain price of £100 for the pair, so could not refuse. They are the motors for the electric opening tailgate, need to sort out a couple of other components to make it all work but should be around £200 for all the hardware.
Also purchased these today for a bargain price of £100 for the pair, so could not refuse. They are the motors for the electric opening tailgate, need to sort out a couple of other components to make it all work but should be around £200 for all the hardware.
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gupsterg
Registered User
Hi B5NUT,
I take my hat off to you mate! What a great thread/write up! :icon_thumright:
I haven't undone the intercooler pipes on my car, even though I've had the bumper off a few times for bits of work. Your turbo may not be on it's way out, the crankcase ventilation system vents into the intercooler system, that oil vapour must liquefy back.
On the turbo you will find a plastic piece which in ETKA/ELSA is called pulsation damper (Link:- My thread), the crankcase ventilation hose links to that and you will find oil residue there and my theory is that it then is shot through the whole intake system. I also believe that the oil/vapour must then mix with the sooty EGR to exaggerate carbon deposits. One forum member who had a 3.0 TDi A6 and went through similar work as me/you has added a oil catch can to reduce oily vapour getting into intake.
All the best
G
I take my hat off to you mate! What a great thread/write up! :icon_thumright:
I haven't undone the intercooler pipes on my car, even though I've had the bumper off a few times for bits of work. Your turbo may not be on it's way out, the crankcase ventilation system vents into the intercooler system, that oil vapour must liquefy back.
On the turbo you will find a plastic piece which in ETKA/ELSA is called pulsation damper (Link:- My thread), the crankcase ventilation hose links to that and you will find oil residue there and my theory is that it then is shot through the whole intake system. I also believe that the oil/vapour must then mix with the sooty EGR to exaggerate carbon deposits. One forum member who had a 3.0 TDi A6 and went through similar work as me/you has added a oil catch can to reduce oily vapour getting into intake.
All the best
G
Yer, I don't think the turbo is going now, will apply your mod to the ventilation hose, and see how it goes. I found a link to the training manual for the 3.0 TDi engine with the crankcase breather information, which appears to be part of the oil cooler. http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_350.pdf
Wonder if that could fail or cause problems once the engine gets the miles & age on it?
Wonder if that could fail or cause problems once the engine gets the miles & age on it?
gupsterg
Registered User
My memory is hazy as it has been a long time since I was knee deep in diagnosis of my car's issues. Perhaps there was a test which can be done which I read either in ELSA or SSP or a thread I read? perhaps not?
You may have already found them but these are some of the SSP's I read.
SSP323 Audi A6 2005
SSP324 Audi A6 2005 Running gear
SSP325 Audi A6 2005 Assemblies
SSP326 Audi A6 2005 Electrical System
SSP327_1 Audi Engines - Chain Drives
SSP327_2 Audi Engines - Chain Drives
SSP350 The 3.0l V6 TDI engine
SSP351 The common rail fuel injection system fitted in the 3.0l V6 TDI engine
SSP358 Hot-Film Air-Mass Meter HFM 6
When I started to delve into SSP's I found helpful info in other ones as well, for instance say an A8 one, as tech is shared.
Whats more? always interested in other peoples mods so I can do them on my car :icon_thumright:
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Still awaiting the cars arrival
I'll need to get it home and looked at first, then see what is going on.
Time is always a problem for me now, so no Scottesque mods I suspect!
LED lights look spot on, not sure if you knew what I meant about the bright after market ones?! 
Did your car already have the LED tail lights? A mod I want to do to mine but cant seem to find them reasonable second hand...
Did your car already have the LED tail lights? A mod I want to do to mine but cant seem to find them reasonable second hand...
Yes, had the LED from factory along with Xenons, one less thing to install.
So not done much to the car over the last few weeks due to family issues, but in that time had a lot if time to spend on ebay looking for upgrades.
First was the motors for the electric tailgate, if you are looking to retrofit this option then avoid motors like the one I purchased below, it missing the bracket that attaches to the boot hinges and you cannot buy these.
The motors should look like these below, thankfully I only purchased one of these motors with the missing bracket.
2 complete units.
Also still waiting for the wiring harness from kufatec, been told around 3-4 weeks delivery which I'm not to pleased about.
The next retrofit will be MMI 3G, been scouring ebay for cheap parts and so far done quite well.
High Res MMI 3G screen £70
New radio/AMP module with DAB. Audi no longer have a separate AMP for cars without Bose/B&O it's now part of the radio. Cost £160
Audi Multimedia this replaces the old control head/Nav/BT and AMI modules. The unit I picked up was a hard disk based version, but does not have the SIM card slot. Cost of this was £170
Final module was a new CD-Changer I know the one in I my car will not be compatible with the 3G setup, so I got this one for £80
Also purchased the quadlock connectors and some of the other connectors for the screen and other modules.
Still need to purchase the following items.
Aerial Amplifiers DAB/TV
Digital TV module
AMI Cable
Multimedia to screen cable
V2 climate controls
I also need to have my can-gateway software updated, for MMI 3G you need software version 0071 or 0080. I looking to get this done via Kufatec as I cannot find a 26pin gateway with this software, best I have found so far 0060.
So not done much to the car over the last few weeks due to family issues, but in that time had a lot if time to spend on ebay looking for upgrades.
First was the motors for the electric tailgate, if you are looking to retrofit this option then avoid motors like the one I purchased below, it missing the bracket that attaches to the boot hinges and you cannot buy these.
The motors should look like these below, thankfully I only purchased one of these motors with the missing bracket.
2 complete units.
Also still waiting for the wiring harness from kufatec, been told around 3-4 weeks delivery which I'm not to pleased about.
The next retrofit will be MMI 3G, been scouring ebay for cheap parts and so far done quite well.
High Res MMI 3G screen £70
New radio/AMP module with DAB. Audi no longer have a separate AMP for cars without Bose/B&O it's now part of the radio. Cost £160
Audi Multimedia this replaces the old control head/Nav/BT and AMI modules. The unit I picked up was a hard disk based version, but does not have the SIM card slot. Cost of this was £170
Final module was a new CD-Changer I know the one in I my car will not be compatible with the 3G setup, so I got this one for £80
Also purchased the quadlock connectors and some of the other connectors for the screen and other modules.
Still need to purchase the following items.
Aerial Amplifiers DAB/TV
Digital TV module
AMI Cable
Multimedia to screen cable
V2 climate controls
I also need to have my can-gateway software updated, for MMI 3G you need software version 0071 or 0080. I looking to get this done via Kufatec as I cannot find a 26pin gateway with this software, best I have found so far 0060.
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Well done brilliant write up perfect with the pictures, was amazed with the deposits in the inlets.
Picking up a 55 plate A6 3.0 Quattro Avant this Saturday after having my old faithful C5 A6 2.5tdi Avant which i have owned for about 6 years hence going for the upgrade, so was having a nose on the forum as to what problems to look for (amazingly on the test drive hot air from drivers side only all the time with temp on LO.... sound familiar? so its being sorted this week as one of the bits to do before purchase) and to what I can upgrade the MMI too.
It seems that it has a MMI 2g (as it has a colour screen and sat nav) so i wait with interest on the next update.
And look forward to Saturday too.
Picking up a 55 plate A6 3.0 Quattro Avant this Saturday after having my old faithful C5 A6 2.5tdi Avant which i have owned for about 6 years hence going for the upgrade, so was having a nose on the forum as to what problems to look for (amazingly on the test drive hot air from drivers side only all the time with temp on LO.... sound familiar? so its being sorted this week as one of the bits to do before purchase) and to what I can upgrade the MMI too.
It seems that it has a MMI 2g (as it has a colour screen and sat nav) so i wait with interest on the next update.
And look forward to Saturday too.
Cheers, Yes the heating issue does sound the same, least its a simple fix. Enjoy the new motor on Saturday.
Well started my MMI3G upgrade a few weeks ago, as in the above pictures I got some of the hardware but still needed further parts and wiring harnesses.
One thing I do like about the 3G setup is the amount of modules that are no longer required.
For the 2G setup in my car I had the following modules installed
Control Head
CD-Changer
AMI Audi Music Interface
DVD Navigation
Radio
DAB Radio
Bluetooth
Standard AMP
With the MMI3G setup for my car only the following modules are required to give me the above configuration.
Information Electronics (This includes Bluetooth, Navigation, AMI, Speech dialog)
CD-Changer
Radio (Includes a in-built standard AMP, and digital radio depending on the unit you buy)
This was my shopping list for the A6 conversion
Information Electronics (Audi Multimedia Interface) Hard disk version
DAB Radio Module
Microphones
New High Resolution screen
Can gateway with software version 0071
Note on the can gateway, you need a later can-gateway for the MMI 3G installation I found a gateway on ebay.de as I could not find one in the UK, and I was not going to buy a new one as the Audi parts department could not confirm what software version I would get, so could have been a waste of £250. So for the A6 you must get the 26pin version with software 71, also make sure the production date is around 2010 or onwards, as there are SW version 70 (A8 gateway) and these will not work
Note software version top right and the production date.
Started by creating the harnesses. I wanted to be able to connect up to the existing plugs so if required the 2G MMI kit could be fitted back into the car without any problems. As my car did not have Bose I had to create a harness to convert the standard Audi amplifier to the radio quadlock connector. For the harness I used an MMI tel-mute kit cost around £10 off ebay, I then hacked that up and purchased a quad lock connector from Audi as for some mad reason they changed the design on the radio module quad lock, Part number of the Radio quad lock connector is 4E0 035 444 and I needed 2 repair wires for the + & - terminals Audi part number 000 979 308 E, all the other pins I had and theses can be purchased from kufatec. Note if you have Bose or B&O system you don't need AMP harness, just the quadlock adapter with + & - terminals and the ring bus diagnostic wire. Also note that you will need to replace the Bose AMP with a MMI3G version.
The other main harness is for the 5F Information Electronics. To get a male plug that goes into the Control head harness I used a none MOST version can-gateway and cut de-soldered the connector from the circuit board, as this is the same connector that is fitted to the control head. On the existing harness to the control head there are power connectors, however these should not be used as the new Audi Multimedia Interface requires a 15AMP fuse so you should run new wires to the fuse box and earth point.
Another harness was created for the MMI 3G screen, on the old 2G screen there was only one connector that provided power and video, on the 3G screen the power connector is separate from the video. So for the power connector it only need + & - terminals. For the video cable I just purchased one from ebay, cost was only £40 and it was not worth trying to make one myself. I did modify with the cable and that was to wrap it in cloth harness tape just to stop any rattling.
First stage of the installation was to remove all of the old MMI 2G hardware, the control head behind the glovebox which is just held in with two torx head screws, once removed I used a straight connector to link the MOST cable together, as you will be using the MOST cables that go to the CD-Changer for the Audi Multimedia Interface. You should also secure the old screen cable to it's not able to rattle around.
Next was all the hardware in the boot including the cage, this is a straight forward job just disconnect all the connectors going into the modules and unscrew the four nuts holding the cage in place, you can then remove the cable guide at the top of the cage. You may need to modify the MOST cables depending on how many modules you removed and refitted, I had 4 devices but only fitted a single module back so just needed the input/output cables coming from the front of the car, but I have left all of the other MOST & power cables in place so I can revert the car back and also connect the TV tuner.
Final part of the old 2G setup as to remove the screen. First was to remove the front driver's side air vent. You need to wedge up the two clips at the bottom of the air vent, you can then us a hook type tool to remove the vent by pulling it forward. Once the vent is removed you can then push out the headlight switch from the rear and then disconnect.
Next is to remove the center console vents, using the same hook tool just pull the vent forward and unclip at the end. There are no clips on the bottom of the vent like on the driver's side.
The buttons either side of the screen also need to be removed, you first prise up the little plastic strips, and you can then use a hook tool to pull the buttons out. I did have problems getting out the buttons on the left hand side and had to push them out from the back, before they were refitted I sanded down the edges so they would not get stuck again. The console is then held in place by 6 screws, once removed you need to unclip the plastic trim the goes around the steering console, then you can fold the dash downwards so you can get access to the 4 screws holing the screen in place you will need a 5.5mm socket to remove them. The old video cable can also be pulled through into the glovebox area and tape up, there is a metal frame running across the area where I taped the cable on to.
Bar just above the glovebox where the old screen cable is taped up.
The wiring harness can then be put in place and ran into the black fuse connector and the earth point below. The video cable was also fitted and ran into the glovebox area and taped up to the CD-Changer MOST/Power harness. The cables were connected to the screen and the screen secured to the console. The console was then refitted along with the air vents.
At this point I changed the can-gateway, on the old 2G setup all diagnostic communication was done via the control head as the infotainment can wires went into that module, and communication to the other 2G MMI modules were done via the control head. With the new gateway which has software to support MMI 3G all diagnostic communication to the 3G MMI device is done via the gateway. To remove the gateway is a simple job of just removing the 2 bolts and disconnecting the wiring, and then reconnecting to the new gateway. NOTE. Once you fit the new gateway the car will go into component protection and a good few things won't work, like climate control and instrument cluster (Speedo will work). Component protection can only be removed by a dealer or a company with a license ODIS unit connected to Audi's database in Germany.
Cars original gateway, most of the A6 gateways on ebay are software versions 0060 like mine.
I then connected up the harness for the Audi Multimedia Interface connect up the positive connector to the black fuse connector and the earth point below. The harness was then connected to the old control head connector and the taped up to the CD-Changer MOST/Power harness, and the extra harness was connected for the CD-Changer that was going to be fitted.
Next I ran a new cable fakra navigation cable to go from the existing point in the boot to the front of the car. I already had a real of cable and a crimp tool, so just had to purchase a couple of fakra RG174 connectors. The cable was ran behind the boot trim and down behind the rear passenger seat and run under the passenger side lower trim, the cable was then cut to side and connector place on the end and buzzed out to make sure there were no shorts. All the fakra components can be purchased here Co-Star - Specialists in Engineering Consumables & Communications Equipment
Final cable to run in was the microphone cable, I used a 6 core cable as I fitted both left and right microphones and also wanted spare cabling so I could connect the Bose microphone wires if fitted at a later date. I ran the cable behind the pillar trim, behind the airbag and into the front interior light. I had to remove the sun visor just so I could pull down the head lining a little to pull the cable through
One thing I do like about the 3G setup is the amount of modules that are no longer required.
For the 2G setup in my car I had the following modules installed
Control Head
CD-Changer
AMI Audi Music Interface
DVD Navigation
Radio
DAB Radio
Bluetooth
Standard AMP
With the MMI3G setup for my car only the following modules are required to give me the above configuration.
Information Electronics (This includes Bluetooth, Navigation, AMI, Speech dialog)
CD-Changer
Radio (Includes a in-built standard AMP, and digital radio depending on the unit you buy)
This was my shopping list for the A6 conversion
Information Electronics (Audi Multimedia Interface) Hard disk version
DAB Radio Module
Microphones
New High Resolution screen
Can gateway with software version 0071
Note on the can gateway, you need a later can-gateway for the MMI 3G installation I found a gateway on ebay.de as I could not find one in the UK, and I was not going to buy a new one as the Audi parts department could not confirm what software version I would get, so could have been a waste of £250. So for the A6 you must get the 26pin version with software 71, also make sure the production date is around 2010 or onwards, as there are SW version 70 (A8 gateway) and these will not work
Note software version top right and the production date.
Started by creating the harnesses. I wanted to be able to connect up to the existing plugs so if required the 2G MMI kit could be fitted back into the car without any problems. As my car did not have Bose I had to create a harness to convert the standard Audi amplifier to the radio quadlock connector. For the harness I used an MMI tel-mute kit cost around £10 off ebay, I then hacked that up and purchased a quad lock connector from Audi as for some mad reason they changed the design on the radio module quad lock, Part number of the Radio quad lock connector is 4E0 035 444 and I needed 2 repair wires for the + & - terminals Audi part number 000 979 308 E, all the other pins I had and theses can be purchased from kufatec. Note if you have Bose or B&O system you don't need AMP harness, just the quadlock adapter with + & - terminals and the ring bus diagnostic wire. Also note that you will need to replace the Bose AMP with a MMI3G version.
The other main harness is for the 5F Information Electronics. To get a male plug that goes into the Control head harness I used a none MOST version can-gateway and cut de-soldered the connector from the circuit board, as this is the same connector that is fitted to the control head. On the existing harness to the control head there are power connectors, however these should not be used as the new Audi Multimedia Interface requires a 15AMP fuse so you should run new wires to the fuse box and earth point.
Another harness was created for the MMI 3G screen, on the old 2G screen there was only one connector that provided power and video, on the 3G screen the power connector is separate from the video. So for the power connector it only need + & - terminals. For the video cable I just purchased one from ebay, cost was only £40 and it was not worth trying to make one myself. I did modify with the cable and that was to wrap it in cloth harness tape just to stop any rattling.
First stage of the installation was to remove all of the old MMI 2G hardware, the control head behind the glovebox which is just held in with two torx head screws, once removed I used a straight connector to link the MOST cable together, as you will be using the MOST cables that go to the CD-Changer for the Audi Multimedia Interface. You should also secure the old screen cable to it's not able to rattle around.
Next was all the hardware in the boot including the cage, this is a straight forward job just disconnect all the connectors going into the modules and unscrew the four nuts holding the cage in place, you can then remove the cable guide at the top of the cage. You may need to modify the MOST cables depending on how many modules you removed and refitted, I had 4 devices but only fitted a single module back so just needed the input/output cables coming from the front of the car, but I have left all of the other MOST & power cables in place so I can revert the car back and also connect the TV tuner.
Final part of the old 2G setup as to remove the screen. First was to remove the front driver's side air vent. You need to wedge up the two clips at the bottom of the air vent, you can then us a hook type tool to remove the vent by pulling it forward. Once the vent is removed you can then push out the headlight switch from the rear and then disconnect.
Next is to remove the center console vents, using the same hook tool just pull the vent forward and unclip at the end. There are no clips on the bottom of the vent like on the driver's side.
The buttons either side of the screen also need to be removed, you first prise up the little plastic strips, and you can then use a hook tool to pull the buttons out. I did have problems getting out the buttons on the left hand side and had to push them out from the back, before they were refitted I sanded down the edges so they would not get stuck again. The console is then held in place by 6 screws, once removed you need to unclip the plastic trim the goes around the steering console, then you can fold the dash downwards so you can get access to the 4 screws holing the screen in place you will need a 5.5mm socket to remove them. The old video cable can also be pulled through into the glovebox area and tape up, there is a metal frame running across the area where I taped the cable on to.
Bar just above the glovebox where the old screen cable is taped up.
The wiring harness can then be put in place and ran into the black fuse connector and the earth point below. The video cable was also fitted and ran into the glovebox area and taped up to the CD-Changer MOST/Power harness. The cables were connected to the screen and the screen secured to the console. The console was then refitted along with the air vents.
At this point I changed the can-gateway, on the old 2G setup all diagnostic communication was done via the control head as the infotainment can wires went into that module, and communication to the other 2G MMI modules were done via the control head. With the new gateway which has software to support MMI 3G all diagnostic communication to the 3G MMI device is done via the gateway. To remove the gateway is a simple job of just removing the 2 bolts and disconnecting the wiring, and then reconnecting to the new gateway. NOTE. Once you fit the new gateway the car will go into component protection and a good few things won't work, like climate control and instrument cluster (Speedo will work). Component protection can only be removed by a dealer or a company with a license ODIS unit connected to Audi's database in Germany.
Cars original gateway, most of the A6 gateways on ebay are software versions 0060 like mine.
I then connected up the harness for the Audi Multimedia Interface connect up the positive connector to the black fuse connector and the earth point below. The harness was then connected to the old control head connector and the taped up to the CD-Changer MOST/Power harness, and the extra harness was connected for the CD-Changer that was going to be fitted.
Next I ran a new cable fakra navigation cable to go from the existing point in the boot to the front of the car. I already had a real of cable and a crimp tool, so just had to purchase a couple of fakra RG174 connectors. The cable was ran behind the boot trim and down behind the rear passenger seat and run under the passenger side lower trim, the cable was then cut to side and connector place on the end and buzzed out to make sure there were no shorts. All the fakra components can be purchased here Co-Star - Specialists in Engineering Consumables & Communications Equipment
Final cable to run in was the microphone cable, I used a 6 core cable as I fitted both left and right microphones and also wanted spare cabling so I could connect the Bose microphone wires if fitted at a later date. I ran the cable behind the pillar trim, behind the airbag and into the front interior light. I had to remove the sun visor just so I could pull down the head lining a little to pull the cable through
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As I got a CD-Changer as part of the Audi Multimedia Interface which I got off ebay, so I also purchased a glovebox with dual media slots for £50, the changer and Audi Multimedia Interface were fitted and harness were connected. It's not too bad behind there but would have liked to have shorter MOST cable to the CD-Changer, may look to see if I can buy some custom cables.
Next job was to fit the radio module in the rear of the car, the aerial modules are still to sort out but will be looking at that next week. As I will be fitting a TV module I purchased the cage to allow fitment of the radio and TV module, but you can buy one that is just radio only. If you have Bose you also have to buy the same cage I got plus and extra bracket for the AMP.
Once the harness were connected to the radio the system was tested, and thankfully all appears to be working but I do need get the radio module recoded to enable the internal AMP and component protection removed. But all appears to be working.
Next was coding of the Audi Multimedia Interface. First was to enable the hidden menu AudiEnthusiasts Vag Com Once enabled I was able to go into the menu and enable AMI, and switch off a few other option that are not fitted to my car. You access the hidden menu by pressing the setup then car button on the control panel and wait for the menu to appear.
I've also got to update the firmware and the navigation maps and will figure this out over the next few days.
All the old hardware removed from the car excluding the BT, AMI module, which were already sold.
Next job was to fit the radio module in the rear of the car, the aerial modules are still to sort out but will be looking at that next week. As I will be fitting a TV module I purchased the cage to allow fitment of the radio and TV module, but you can buy one that is just radio only. If you have Bose you also have to buy the same cage I got plus and extra bracket for the AMP.
Once the harness were connected to the radio the system was tested, and thankfully all appears to be working but I do need get the radio module recoded to enable the internal AMP and component protection removed. But all appears to be working.
Next was coding of the Audi Multimedia Interface. First was to enable the hidden menu AudiEnthusiasts Vag Com Once enabled I was able to go into the menu and enable AMI, and switch off a few other option that are not fitted to my car. You access the hidden menu by pressing the setup then car button on the control panel and wait for the menu to appear.
I've also got to update the firmware and the navigation maps and will figure this out over the next few days.
All the old hardware removed from the car excluding the BT, AMI module, which were already sold.
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yes I agree another perfect and detailed write up.
whats the little pry tool you have and where can i get one?
so dare i ask total outlay for 3g upgrade? and is the screen a lot better and does it respond quicker?
loving the USB and SD slots.
whats the little pry tool you have and where can i get one?
so dare i ask total outlay for 3g upgrade? and is the screen a lot better and does it respond quicker?
loving the USB and SD slots.
I got them from ebay just under £5. 6pc Extra Long Hook And Pick Set O-Ring & Seal Remover Craft Hobby Tool New | eBay
I'll do a list off all the parts I used, but so far the cost is just over £800. I've sold the BT & AMI for £320 and I hope I can sell most of the remaining hardware for around £500-£600. I still need the TV tuner and the aerial modules so that will be another £300. So when I get the final hardware, and everything sells I'm hoping of a final bill of around £300-£400. I don't think that is a bad price seeing that gives me a more updated MMI and added digital TV.
The only slow side to the 3G MMI so far is the initial boot up, but I think that is caused by the navigation as the maps are much more detailed (around 29GB in size) but after that everything is much quicker, and the screen is far better and the option to put all your music on the internal HDD is nice. The firmware and the maps are well out of date (2009), but I've just got the latest 2014 firmware and maps so will update the system once I get component protect removed tomorrow.
I'll do a list off all the parts I used, but so far the cost is just over £800. I've sold the BT & AMI for £320 and I hope I can sell most of the remaining hardware for around £500-£600. I still need the TV tuner and the aerial modules so that will be another £300. So when I get the final hardware, and everything sells I'm hoping of a final bill of around £300-£400. I don't think that is a bad price seeing that gives me a more updated MMI and added digital TV.
The only slow side to the 3G MMI so far is the initial boot up, but I think that is caused by the navigation as the maps are much more detailed (around 29GB in size) but after that everything is much quicker, and the screen is far better and the option to put all your music on the internal HDD is nice. The firmware and the maps are well out of date (2009), but I've just got the latest 2014 firmware and maps so will update the system once I get component protect removed tomorrow.
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Well had component protection removed from the car and the MMI hardware I had fitted. Have to say seeing that I had only changed the gateway, it put most of the car into component protection. This is what I could see had stopped working
For the instrument cluster the speedometer did work but no rev gauge, fuel gauge, temp gauge, no dis just said "Safe" Airbag light on, brake light on, battery light and the glow plug light. The indicators worked but no lights on the cluster.
Climate control was dead, could not be switched on and no fans working, bit of a sod as it was raining and the screen was misting up!
Airbags the control module has CP error code so not sure if they would work in a crash!
CP was also on central electrics, Acc/Start Auth, Central Conv and Centr. Electr. II, but could not see what issues CP caused being on these modules.
This afternoon I got around to updating the MMI firmware and maps, the MMI firmware was on HNav_EU_P0022_D1 which dated back from 2009 the maps where also from the same year.
So the current firmware for the HDD MMI3G is HNav_EU_K0257_5_D1 with Audi part number for the disk 8R0 906 961 DF. The latest 2014 maps are 6.17.3 with Audi part number 8R0 060 884 BK.
I was never going to go to Audi to get the maps or firmware as they would never sell the maps to me due to it being a retrofit, so I got downloaded the firmware which was just over 560MB and then downloaded the maps which was a massive 20GB in size. I also got activation file for my chassis number.
Warning there are activation programs for Audi maps and some of them will brick your system, one know tool is called "Kufatec tool" (nothing to do with kufatec) and if you check the metainfo2.txt file that is generated you should not see a reference "preUpdateScript" if you do donât use this activation file!
So to update the MMI3G HDD firmware do the following
First make sure you have plenty of time, I had to run both updates twice and the total time taken on my car was 6 hours...... Also connect up a battery charger to the terminals in the engine bay and make sure itâs a trickle charge, as any boost charge could damage the electrics.
Format an SD card with fat32
Extract the firmware files to the root level of your SD card
Insert SD card in slot 1
Press SETUP + RETURN for 5 seconds
Select UPDATE
Select Standard
A list will be generated with all the modules and if a firmware update is available
Scroll down the bottom of the list and select start download, then start
The system will reboot several times.
Select Continue, then Abort documentation
Exit when finished (about 50 min)
On the firmware update I had to run it twice, as the DVD module refused to update the first time.
MAP Firmware update
You need at least a 32GB SD card (Get a decent quality high speed one.
Extract the map files to the root level of your SD card
Press SETUP + RETURN for 5 seconds
Select UPDATE
Select Standard
A list will be generated with all the modules and if a firmware update is available
Scroll down the bottom of the list and select start download, then start
The system will reboot several times.
Select Continue, then Abort documentation
I also had to run the map firmware update twice as it failed on one of the database updates
MAP Activation
Copy the activation files to the root of the SD card
Press SETUP + RETURN for 5 seconds
Select UPDATE
Select Standard
A list will be generated with all the modules and if a firmware update is available
Only one will show an update is required
Scroll down the bottom of the list and select start download, then start
The system will reboot several times.
Select Continue, then Abort documentation
This take about 2 minutes including a couple of reboots.
Old firmware & map version
New firmware & map version
I noticed a fair few fixes after the update but the main one being I can now play DVD's using inbuilt DVD drive, this was not working before the firmware update.
For the instrument cluster the speedometer did work but no rev gauge, fuel gauge, temp gauge, no dis just said "Safe" Airbag light on, brake light on, battery light and the glow plug light. The indicators worked but no lights on the cluster.
Climate control was dead, could not be switched on and no fans working, bit of a sod as it was raining and the screen was misting up!
Airbags the control module has CP error code so not sure if they would work in a crash!
CP was also on central electrics, Acc/Start Auth, Central Conv and Centr. Electr. II, but could not see what issues CP caused being on these modules.
This afternoon I got around to updating the MMI firmware and maps, the MMI firmware was on HNav_EU_P0022_D1 which dated back from 2009 the maps where also from the same year.
So the current firmware for the HDD MMI3G is HNav_EU_K0257_5_D1 with Audi part number for the disk 8R0 906 961 DF. The latest 2014 maps are 6.17.3 with Audi part number 8R0 060 884 BK.
I was never going to go to Audi to get the maps or firmware as they would never sell the maps to me due to it being a retrofit, so I got downloaded the firmware which was just over 560MB and then downloaded the maps which was a massive 20GB in size. I also got activation file for my chassis number.
Warning there are activation programs for Audi maps and some of them will brick your system, one know tool is called "Kufatec tool" (nothing to do with kufatec) and if you check the metainfo2.txt file that is generated you should not see a reference "preUpdateScript" if you do donât use this activation file!
So to update the MMI3G HDD firmware do the following
First make sure you have plenty of time, I had to run both updates twice and the total time taken on my car was 6 hours...... Also connect up a battery charger to the terminals in the engine bay and make sure itâs a trickle charge, as any boost charge could damage the electrics.
Format an SD card with fat32
Extract the firmware files to the root level of your SD card
Insert SD card in slot 1
Press SETUP + RETURN for 5 seconds
Select UPDATE
Select Standard
A list will be generated with all the modules and if a firmware update is available
Scroll down the bottom of the list and select start download, then start
The system will reboot several times.
Select Continue, then Abort documentation
Exit when finished (about 50 min)
On the firmware update I had to run it twice, as the DVD module refused to update the first time.
MAP Firmware update
You need at least a 32GB SD card (Get a decent quality high speed one.
Extract the map files to the root level of your SD card
Press SETUP + RETURN for 5 seconds
Select UPDATE
Select Standard
A list will be generated with all the modules and if a firmware update is available
Scroll down the bottom of the list and select start download, then start
The system will reboot several times.
Select Continue, then Abort documentation
I also had to run the map firmware update twice as it failed on one of the database updates
MAP Activation
Copy the activation files to the root of the SD card
Press SETUP + RETURN for 5 seconds
Select UPDATE
Select Standard
A list will be generated with all the modules and if a firmware update is available
Only one will show an update is required
Scroll down the bottom of the list and select start download, then start
The system will reboot several times.
Select Continue, then Abort documentation
This take about 2 minutes including a couple of reboots.
Old firmware & map version
New firmware & map version
I noticed a fair few fixes after the update but the main one being I can now play DVD's using inbuilt DVD drive, this was not working before the firmware update.
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SD Card slots
Higher resolution screen
DVD playback using the inbuilt DVD drive, and full control of the playback
Hard disk for storage of Maps and music (Optional)
SD Card slots
Sim card slot (optional)
AMI Inbuilt into the Main MMI module only a cable is required much cheaper than the 2G option.
Telephone inbuilt into the main MMI module. Only need the microphone, so a lot cheaper that the 2G retrofit
MMI 3G firmware is still being updated by Audi
Full postcode possible but needs a special firmware update.
Latest MAPs and firmware available FOC if you dig around for the information
I'm also going to be looking at 3G+ Update which would require replacing the 5F unit, that would give the very latest MMI interface and you can play movies VIA the SD cards
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 15,084
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- 1,131
- Points
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- Location
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- Website
- wheelsnwires.blogspot.com
Started my electric tailgate retrofit this evening, been collecting the bits for a while and the final part was the power latch. The motors and power latch were from ebay as new these parts would cost around £800 which would make this retrofit way to expensive. So far the cost has been around £370 which again is not cheap, but you could reduce the cost by £100 if you made your own wiring harness, which I could not be bothered.
Parts Required
x2 Gas Strut 4F9 827 552 E (Already fitted earlier in the thread)
Tailgate switch 3D0 959 831 D 20H
Drive Motor left 4F9 827 851 F
Drive Motor Right 4F9 827 852 F
x2 Bracket for motors 4F9 827 603 (Already fitted to the motors)
x2 Bolt N 910 556 01
x2 Bolt N 106 855 01
Power latch 4F9 827 383 E or G (Note the power latch is different depending on your mode. The part number I have listed is for Quattro models 4/6 cylinder engines)
Wiring harness from Kufatec
Note that some Comfort System (46) modules will not code the electronic tailgate and will need to be replaced.
just really got to the point of dismantling the rear of the car and fitting the wiring harness, started off by stripping down the tailgate, first by removing the warning triangle, and then the access covers for the rear tail
lights.
Remove the 6 screws holding the tailgate trim panel in place, once the screw are removed you then need to pull the trim downwards if it's never been off before then it can be a bit of a sod to remove.
You also need to remove the trim panel lights
Next is to remove the trim around the rear windscreen, it's held in place by a torx screw either side and clipped in place
To remove the hinge cover it just unclips from the inner edge.
Once the tailgate is stripped I moved onto the rear roof trim, you just need to remove the boot light fitting first, so you can access the screw holding the trim panel in place. The trim can then be removed by pulling trim away from the car.
When the rear roof trim is removed you need to pull down the drivers side D pillar trim, it does not need to be removed just pulled down enough to run the cables down. You just need to remove the 2 screw holding it in place and the plastic clip
The only other trim panel I removed was the cross panel, so the tailgate latch can be removed and the harness run to the latch and be run in.
Final job for the evening was to cut the hole for the switch, which was easy enough.
Parts Required
x2 Gas Strut 4F9 827 552 E (Already fitted earlier in the thread)
Tailgate switch 3D0 959 831 D 20H
Drive Motor left 4F9 827 851 F
Drive Motor Right 4F9 827 852 F
x2 Bracket for motors 4F9 827 603 (Already fitted to the motors)
x2 Bolt N 910 556 01
x2 Bolt N 106 855 01
Power latch 4F9 827 383 E or G (Note the power latch is different depending on your mode. The part number I have listed is for Quattro models 4/6 cylinder engines)
Wiring harness from Kufatec
Note that some Comfort System (46) modules will not code the electronic tailgate and will need to be replaced.
just really got to the point of dismantling the rear of the car and fitting the wiring harness, started off by stripping down the tailgate, first by removing the warning triangle, and then the access covers for the rear tail
lights.
Remove the 6 screws holding the tailgate trim panel in place, once the screw are removed you then need to pull the trim downwards if it's never been off before then it can be a bit of a sod to remove.
You also need to remove the trim panel lights
Next is to remove the trim around the rear windscreen, it's held in place by a torx screw either side and clipped in place
To remove the hinge cover it just unclips from the inner edge.
Once the tailgate is stripped I moved onto the rear roof trim, you just need to remove the boot light fitting first, so you can access the screw holding the trim panel in place. The trim can then be removed by pulling trim away from the car.
When the rear roof trim is removed you need to pull down the drivers side D pillar trim, it does not need to be removed just pulled down enough to run the cables down. You just need to remove the 2 screw holding it in place and the plastic clip
The only other trim panel I removed was the cross panel, so the tailgate latch can be removed and the harness run to the latch and be run in.
Final job for the evening was to cut the hole for the switch, which was easy enough.
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- Website
- www.audi-sport.net
Got further today, but as usual it was not stright forward as first figued and other things got in the way.
First problem was the wiring harness from kufatec, they are usualy very good but if you follow there instructions and secure the harness to the cars existing harness the plug for the tailgate close button is about 12" short, so that will need to be extended tomorrow as it looks a much tidier job with the harness secured that way.
The close button is about 3cm from the boot catch so there is no way it's going to reach...
Earth point for the motors in the roof.
Second problem was getting the motors fitted, one of the motor arms was out of alignment and would not locate so the motor had to be turned manually which was difficult as a fair amount of force is required to turn the motors. Once aligned and fitted the motor just had to be secured which was the difficult part, as the hole to get the bolt in is about 2" deep and the headlining is in the way, also trying to hold the motor in place keep the headlining out of the way, locate the screw into the bracket and then trying to turn the screw is dam well impossible, so the trick was just to remove the bracket from the motor and get the screw located in the bracket first, then position the motor and secure to the bracket and tighten.
When fitting the right hand motor you need to remove the plastic cable guide as this goes into the hole that bolt need to fit through.
The bolt to hold the bracket has to go through the hole and to make it even easier the headlining is in the way.
Both motors fitted.
Next is to fit the powered boot catch, the problem here is the amount of adjustment that can be made, there must be around 5mm at least side to side and backwards and forwards. I just made a mark where the centre of the existing boot catch was and the backwards/forwards adjustment once all the electrics are working, but I mounted it further towards the bumper so there was no possibility of damaging the powered boot catch if it was trying to pull to hard to close the tailgate.
Alignment mark using the existing latch.
Next was to connect the wiring, the only 2 plugs that you need to make changes too are the on the blue plug and the black plug just above, as I never bothered making my own harness the only instructions I have are form kufatec, so if anyone needs this PM me, but it will only be relevant to the kufatec harness, as it all marked up.
There are 2 earth wires which I connect to the earth point just to the left of the fuse holder.
The other 3 wires need to go to the fuse box. It needs to be a permanent live connection, so I used the brown fuse holder and the top 3 fuse locations. I just put some temporary fuses in there to make sure it was all working and will find out the correct ratings tomorrow.
The Final stage was the coding, first is to code the can-gateway and enable 6D Trunk electrics. Next you have to enable the closing aid and motors. to do this add the following values to your existing coding in the comfort control module (address 46)
Trunk lid closing aid + 1048576
Trunk lid motors + 2097152
One thing to note even if your module accepts the coding, only the following modules actually support the electric tailgate function and these are.
4F0907289B
4F0910289B
4F0910289L
4F0910289K
If you don't have one of these modules then the power latch won't work and the only way to electrically close the tailgate is via VCDS.
For my installation I still have to extend the connector for the boot switch and put the tailgate trim panels back, But I'm waiting on the aerial modules for the TV tuner so will be fitting these first before I refit the trim.
First problem was the wiring harness from kufatec, they are usualy very good but if you follow there instructions and secure the harness to the cars existing harness the plug for the tailgate close button is about 12" short, so that will need to be extended tomorrow as it looks a much tidier job with the harness secured that way.
The close button is about 3cm from the boot catch so there is no way it's going to reach...
Earth point for the motors in the roof.
Second problem was getting the motors fitted, one of the motor arms was out of alignment and would not locate so the motor had to be turned manually which was difficult as a fair amount of force is required to turn the motors. Once aligned and fitted the motor just had to be secured which was the difficult part, as the hole to get the bolt in is about 2" deep and the headlining is in the way, also trying to hold the motor in place keep the headlining out of the way, locate the screw into the bracket and then trying to turn the screw is dam well impossible, so the trick was just to remove the bracket from the motor and get the screw located in the bracket first, then position the motor and secure to the bracket and tighten.
When fitting the right hand motor you need to remove the plastic cable guide as this goes into the hole that bolt need to fit through.
The bolt to hold the bracket has to go through the hole and to make it even easier the headlining is in the way.
Both motors fitted.
Next is to fit the powered boot catch, the problem here is the amount of adjustment that can be made, there must be around 5mm at least side to side and backwards and forwards. I just made a mark where the centre of the existing boot catch was and the backwards/forwards adjustment once all the electrics are working, but I mounted it further towards the bumper so there was no possibility of damaging the powered boot catch if it was trying to pull to hard to close the tailgate.
Alignment mark using the existing latch.
Next was to connect the wiring, the only 2 plugs that you need to make changes too are the on the blue plug and the black plug just above, as I never bothered making my own harness the only instructions I have are form kufatec, so if anyone needs this PM me, but it will only be relevant to the kufatec harness, as it all marked up.
There are 2 earth wires which I connect to the earth point just to the left of the fuse holder.
The other 3 wires need to go to the fuse box. It needs to be a permanent live connection, so I used the brown fuse holder and the top 3 fuse locations. I just put some temporary fuses in there to make sure it was all working and will find out the correct ratings tomorrow.
The Final stage was the coding, first is to code the can-gateway and enable 6D Trunk electrics. Next you have to enable the closing aid and motors. to do this add the following values to your existing coding in the comfort control module (address 46)
Trunk lid closing aid + 1048576
Trunk lid motors + 2097152
One thing to note even if your module accepts the coding, only the following modules actually support the electric tailgate function and these are.
4F0907289B
4F0910289B
4F0910289L
4F0910289K
If you don't have one of these modules then the power latch won't work and the only way to electrically close the tailgate is via VCDS.
For my installation I still have to extend the connector for the boot switch and put the tailgate trim panels back, But I'm waiting on the aerial modules for the TV tuner so will be fitting these first before I refit the trim.
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Well more bits turned up today, you have to love ebay!
MMI 3G TV tuner and the main aerial module.
MMI 3G TV tuner and the main aerial module.
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mitalm
Audi A3
It's so sad but I'm absolutely addicted to this thread! The work and effort you're putting into this car is nothing short of incredible! I'm so jealous of all the mods you're installing!
One thing I thought I'd mention, will you be putting a boot open switch in the drivers door? As that's something that would be installed with the auto boot by the factory.
Seriously though kudos on all the work! amazing!
One thing I thought I'd mention, will you be putting a boot open switch in the drivers door? As that's something that would be installed with the auto boot by the factory.
Seriously though kudos on all the work! amazing!
I know the bumper mounts are the same the side mounts are the same, you will need new fog lights and grills and the covers for the headlight washer and tow cover. You also need to make sure that if you have front parking sensors like I have you find a bumper with the holes, are mounted in a different location on the facelift bumper. One thing I don't know is if the centre grill fits, but I was planning on replacing that anyway.
Cheers, I'm looking into the drivers door, but I guess you could put a button anywhere.
Another toy turned up today, bargain from ebay.de. Have to say I really don't rate the standard Audi AMP's, it was rubbish on the A4, and the A6 both 2G & 3G.
Just need to find the speakers, there is some on ebay at the moment but they are asking way to much.
Just need to find the speakers, there is some on ebay at the moment but they are asking way to much.
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