My A6 3.0TDi Avant bit of a rebuild and repair thread.
- Thread starter B5NUT
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That I don't know for sure but I would think they are the same as all the Audi Bose speakers I worked on which are 2ohm.
Is the amp a strait plug and play and then a laptop job or does the plug need rewiring then the laptop?
Also is the crossover built in to these amps or is it a separate crossover in the front doors for the 3 speakers?
Also is the crossover built in to these amps or is it a separate crossover in the front doors for the 3 speakers?
quick question regarding 2G high, am i right in saying if the MMI has the usual CD changer that you cant also have AMI and it has to be one or the other, or can you install both?
Don't know off the top of my head but will post the speaker layout later from elsawin later.
You can have up to 4 media devices, so the CD-Changer will be media player 0, to set the AMI as media player 1 you have to connect a ground wire to pin 4 on the back of the AMI unit. You can also modify the single media glovebox to house the AMI module like I did.
A4B8Sline
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Been watching this thread with interest for a while. Absolutely great work and attention to detail. Look forward to future updates.
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I like Bose mate.
Some people do moan about it and say its **** but coming from a standard amp in a 98 B5 to a Bose amp in a A8 its worlds apart.
a Worthy upgrade I feel.
Some people do moan about it and say its **** but coming from a standard amp in a 98 B5 to a Bose amp in a A8 its worlds apart.
a Worthy upgrade I feel.
Bose compared to the standard setup is night and day, and once you get into the MMI MOST setup you really don't have many other options.
About to do my next install, this has to be my best ever installation, so cheap but is going to make a world of difference to my life, pic's to come!.
About to do my next install, this has to be my best ever installation, so cheap but is going to make a world of difference to my life, pic's to come!.
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B5Nut is the bolt you have your ratchet on before sliding the bumper out, in the "bumper removal" under the wing when you take the liner off or in front of the radiator somewhere ?
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I do think that sometimes, people misunderstand the Bose option in the Audi range. It's an upgrade from a standard system, but because it's named 'Bose', everyone expects to have a competition winning sound off setup! Seriously!!
O it's no competition setup, but compared to the standard rubbish it way better.. The Bose factory fit was only an extra £500 and your not going to get top of the range for £500. Now the B&O on the A8 that is competition stuff, but at a 4 figure price tag it better be.
So this very quick installation, no tools required and the parts are very cheap, but will cost a hell of a lot of money over the next many years!
Parts.
For installation juts pull apart the base & the back rest to expose the brackets and push into place.
Next step is to add a large, expensive and very important bit of metal & plastic.
Then add the final part, one very small baby (Not the best of pictures......)
Still cannot believe I'm now a dad, Just getting ready for the sleepless nights.
Parts.
For installation juts pull apart the base & the back rest to expose the brackets and push into place.
Next step is to add a large, expensive and very important bit of metal & plastic.
Then add the final part, one very small baby (Not the best of pictures......)
Still cannot believe I'm now a dad, Just getting ready for the sleepless nights.
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Brennan
Former Audi Driver
Still cannot believe I'm now a dad, Just getting ready for the sleepless nights.
... and so ends his A6 rebuild project
(nah, not really... it's only after you have a couple that you pretty much completely lose the ability to do anything but survive for a while
)Congrats on the new person!
Yes, its high mileage, but has been well service over the years was done every 10K miles non of this AVS cr@p.
Well as someone posted before installation are slowing down, but got another things off the list over the weekend. One of functions that did not work when converting the car to MMI 3G was MMI display for the climate climate controls, the old V1 unit is not compatible with MMI 3G, and no mater what setting you change you will never make it work, you have to get a V2 unit from the facelift C6 model. I found one for £50 on ebay a couple of weeks back along with an facelift upper trim panel, which was a bargain seeing as it was in very good condition and has the heated seat buttons, which was factory fit to my A6.
Pre and facelift version of the console trim, the facelift version is black so I'm going to need to replace the drivers side vent and the instrument cluster trim. Also on the lookout for a facelift MMI control panel.
First is to remove the climate control panel by pulling it forward, there are 2 holes just underneath where you can grab the controls to remove them.
Next is to remove the air vents, and disconnect the wiring harness plugs.
Connect the harness to the new air vents and climate control and refit, there are no wiring harness changes so it just plug and play. For both the vents and climate controls.
You will then need to go to your local Audi dealer or someone with a registered VAS as your climate control panel will be disabled and you will not be able to switch it on until CP is removed.
Once CP is removed you should then start to see the new climate control interface on the MMI 3G screen, have to say I much prefer the new overlay, rather than the hole screen changing, especially when using the navigation.
Pre and facelift version of the console trim, the facelift version is black so I'm going to need to replace the drivers side vent and the instrument cluster trim. Also on the lookout for a facelift MMI control panel.
First is to remove the climate control panel by pulling it forward, there are 2 holes just underneath where you can grab the controls to remove them.
Next is to remove the air vents, and disconnect the wiring harness plugs.
Connect the harness to the new air vents and climate control and refit, there are no wiring harness changes so it just plug and play. For both the vents and climate controls.
You will then need to go to your local Audi dealer or someone with a registered VAS as your climate control panel will be disabled and you will not be able to switch it on until CP is removed.
Once CP is removed you should then start to see the new climate control interface on the MMI 3G screen, have to say I much prefer the new overlay, rather than the hole screen changing, especially when using the navigation.
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gupsterg
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Congratulations mate on becoming a father!
Fantastic thread and luv the posts as they have such great info/media!
There is only 1 other guy I know that has done so much like you to his prefacelift A6, I think the only thing differing is adaptive cruise control.
One retrofit which has always appealed to me but never done was fitting a PC into the car, a guy on mp3car.com forum had done this way back in 2007 on an A6 C6 , some people have done them in A6 C5 .
Fantastic thread and luv the posts as they have such great info/media!
There is only 1 other guy I know that has done so much like you to his prefacelift A6, I think the only thing differing is adaptive cruise control.
One retrofit which has always appealed to me but never done was fitting a PC into the car, a guy on mp3car.com forum had done this way back in 2007 on an A6 C6 , some people have done them in A6 C5 .
Yer I mucked around with a carpc project, and was going to fit one to my B5 A4, but gave up in the end as it was taking far to much time up and getting hold of some of the parts like DAB radio was almost impossible. I used to post on mp3car.com but not been back since I dropped my project, but its a great forum with lots of information.
I like the idea ACC but don't think I would have the balls to test it, and I'm not sure how things would go insurance wise, I cannot see any insurance company touching a retrofited ACC.
I've still got enough installs to think about, MMI 3G+, Bose and memory seats then I'm done (I think).....
I like the idea ACC but don't think I would have the balls to test it, and I'm not sure how things would go insurance wise, I cannot see any insurance company touching a retrofited ACC.
I've still got enough installs to think about, MMI 3G+, Bose and memory seats then I'm done (I think).....
Over the weekend I finally got the TV installed and working on the car, but took an extra couple of day as I was waiting on dual fakra connectors from kufatec....
So the main components are 1x Digital TV tuner, 2x Aerial modules, fakra cable between the Audi Multimedia module and the TV tuner, and 3x fakra cables between the TV Tuner and 2 Aerial modules, left hand side behind luggage trim, and in the left hand side of the tailgate. Not sure why but Audi dropped the right hand side aerial AMP in the tailgate on MMI 3G.
First was to fit the TV Tuner, its held in place by 4 small screws (N 107 105 01) they were only 13p each so not a big cost on the grand scheme of things
Once fitted I cut off one of the plugs of the existing wiring harness and fitted the TV plug, there are only 3 cables (+, - and Diagnostic) so an easy job. Part number of the plug is 8E0 972 420 C, as this point I also made change to the MOST cables and connect it to the MOST bus. and then connected power to the unit and then made sure it was seen by the MMI.
Once I knew the tuner was working fine I started to run in the new fakra cable between the TV and the Audi Multimedia module. First was to remove the passenger side side bolster, you do this by removing the base of the passenger seat.
Next is to remove the side bolster, you do this by removing the striker pin using a 17MM socket
Then remover the lower bolt with an 8mm socket, at this point you will be able to slide the bolster out.
There is then enough room to run the cable behind the trim panel, the cable can then be run under the passanger side sill trim and into the glovebox area.
Fakra connectors where then put on both ends and connected up, if you don't what to make your own then you can by ready made cables from Kufatec, or if you want to make your own then you can buy all the parts from co-star
The first of the aerial amps was then fitted, this again can be done without removing the side trim, and the amp is held in place with 2 screws
At this point you need to run the aerial wiring harness, you can either make your own or by the ready made one from kufatec
TV Antenna Module - Harness - Audi A6 4F - MMI 3G-33906-2_M
You then need to remove the upper roof trim panel and pull down the passenger side D trim panel which is all in my write-up on the electric tailgate installation and can be found here http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a6-s6-...-bit-rebuild-repair-thread-2.html#post2203776 The cables can then be run along the pipe that runs into the rear washer motor.
You need to remove both lower and upper tailgate trims, which is in the same link as above, just make sure when removing the lower trim panel you remove all 6 screws as there a 2 screws behind the warning triangle panel. The old AMP is removed and new one connected no soldering required.
Once the cables have been run, it's just the case of connecting the fakra connectors on both ends. The single connector I got from co-star and the double are from Kufatec.
Final cables are run to the AMP behind the left hand side boot trim.
Next is to code the car for TV and clear any fault codes.
The only module you need to code is the can-gateway, going into the long code helper and enable TV, once done clear any faults codes. Next is to go into the 5F module and clear the "03276 - Please Check Software Version Management" to do this follow this write-up AudiEnthusiasts Please Check Software Version Management
Next is to confirm you are receiving signal from all of the TV aerials, to do this go into the media menu and select TV, then using VCDS select the TV module. At this point the MMI screen will change to diagnostic screen and you will be able to see the status of all the aerial modules and aerial 1,2 and 3 should read OK. you should also clear any fault codes on the module.
Once this is complete the job is done and you should be able to enjoy TV in your motor....
So the main components are 1x Digital TV tuner, 2x Aerial modules, fakra cable between the Audi Multimedia module and the TV tuner, and 3x fakra cables between the TV Tuner and 2 Aerial modules, left hand side behind luggage trim, and in the left hand side of the tailgate. Not sure why but Audi dropped the right hand side aerial AMP in the tailgate on MMI 3G.
First was to fit the TV Tuner, its held in place by 4 small screws (N 107 105 01) they were only 13p each so not a big cost on the grand scheme of things
Once fitted I cut off one of the plugs of the existing wiring harness and fitted the TV plug, there are only 3 cables (+, - and Diagnostic) so an easy job. Part number of the plug is 8E0 972 420 C, as this point I also made change to the MOST cables and connect it to the MOST bus. and then connected power to the unit and then made sure it was seen by the MMI.
Once I knew the tuner was working fine I started to run in the new fakra cable between the TV and the Audi Multimedia module. First was to remove the passenger side side bolster, you do this by removing the base of the passenger seat.
Next is to remove the side bolster, you do this by removing the striker pin using a 17MM socket
Then remover the lower bolt with an 8mm socket, at this point you will be able to slide the bolster out.
There is then enough room to run the cable behind the trim panel, the cable can then be run under the passanger side sill trim and into the glovebox area.
Fakra connectors where then put on both ends and connected up, if you don't what to make your own then you can by ready made cables from Kufatec, or if you want to make your own then you can buy all the parts from co-star
The first of the aerial amps was then fitted, this again can be done without removing the side trim, and the amp is held in place with 2 screws
At this point you need to run the aerial wiring harness, you can either make your own or by the ready made one from kufatec
TV Antenna Module - Harness - Audi A6 4F - MMI 3G-33906-2_M
You then need to remove the upper roof trim panel and pull down the passenger side D trim panel which is all in my write-up on the electric tailgate installation and can be found here http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a6-s6-...-bit-rebuild-repair-thread-2.html#post2203776 The cables can then be run along the pipe that runs into the rear washer motor.
You need to remove both lower and upper tailgate trims, which is in the same link as above, just make sure when removing the lower trim panel you remove all 6 screws as there a 2 screws behind the warning triangle panel. The old AMP is removed and new one connected no soldering required.
Once the cables have been run, it's just the case of connecting the fakra connectors on both ends. The single connector I got from co-star and the double are from Kufatec.
Final cables are run to the AMP behind the left hand side boot trim.
Next is to code the car for TV and clear any fault codes.
The only module you need to code is the can-gateway, going into the long code helper and enable TV, once done clear any faults codes. Next is to go into the 5F module and clear the "03276 - Please Check Software Version Management" to do this follow this write-up AudiEnthusiasts Please Check Software Version Management
Next is to confirm you are receiving signal from all of the TV aerials, to do this go into the media menu and select TV, then using VCDS select the TV module. At this point the MMI screen will change to diagnostic screen and you will be able to see the status of all the aerial modules and aerial 1,2 and 3 should read OK. you should also clear any fault codes on the module.
Once this is complete the job is done and you should be able to enjoy TV in your motor....
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Another unexpected job done on the car as the brake pad warning light came up on the car the other day.
You will permanently get this message shown in the dis and you also get a message about the brake pads.
The brakes were changed a few years back and I fitted padgit all round, so this time it was just a pad replacement. I'm not going to put anything up about jacking up the car or removing the wheel, if your struggling to do that stop there and get a garage to do the job. Please note this is just a guide, if you not confident with working braking system take it to a garage! This is also a write-up for the 3.0TDi brakes as they are different from the 2.7 & 2.0 TDi engine.
First I removed the rear engine bay cover and removed the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, this is to allow the fluid that is in the calipers to got back into the reservoir
Once the car is jacked up and the wheel is off remove the metal clip, the metal clip with the green arrow is located in a hole which you can just about see if you look at the read arrow. You need to pries that out and then remove the clip.
You then need to remove the 2 dust caps at the rear of the caliper
You can then access the 2x 7mm allen head pins that hold the caliper in place, one of the pins is difficult to access as the brake pipe is close to the pin so I use a long reach 7mm allen key on a socket.
At this point I remove the electrical connector this just un-clips, try not to be to forceful with the clips as they are easy snapped (this was done when I got the car, must replace it at some point)
The electrical connection going to the brake pads is held in place by a little plastic tab lift this up and twist 90deg and slide out.
At this point you can remove the caliper, it should be supported by either using cable ties or like I did but something underneath. I also removed the brake disc at this point point, it's held in place with a torx head screw, remove this and you can slide the disc out. (Not sure if you can do this on all A6 models, some you will have to remove the caliper mount to remove the disc).
Pad was so warn that the sensor wire was lose from the pad.
Also the inner pad had far more wear than the outer pad
New inner v old inner
Next was to clean up the caliper mount and caliper, I just used a manual wire brush, but an electric one would have been better, but will do that when I get a chance to paint the calipers & mount.
I also removed all the rust from the lip of the brake disc
At this point you will need to push the piston back into the caliper, this will need the following tool.
You can then fit the new pads, I also run the sensor cable behind the brake pipe to keep it out of the way
Once done refit the caliper, tighten up the pins and refit the spring, also don't forget the dust caps!
Do that for the other side. Before you start the engine push the brake pedal a few time unit it goes hard, that will push the fluid back into the caliper and push the pads into the disc.
You will permanently get this message shown in the dis and you also get a message about the brake pads.
The brakes were changed a few years back and I fitted padgit all round, so this time it was just a pad replacement. I'm not going to put anything up about jacking up the car or removing the wheel, if your struggling to do that stop there and get a garage to do the job. Please note this is just a guide, if you not confident with working braking system take it to a garage! This is also a write-up for the 3.0TDi brakes as they are different from the 2.7 & 2.0 TDi engine.
First I removed the rear engine bay cover and removed the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, this is to allow the fluid that is in the calipers to got back into the reservoir
Once the car is jacked up and the wheel is off remove the metal clip, the metal clip with the green arrow is located in a hole which you can just about see if you look at the read arrow. You need to pries that out and then remove the clip.
You then need to remove the 2 dust caps at the rear of the caliper
You can then access the 2x 7mm allen head pins that hold the caliper in place, one of the pins is difficult to access as the brake pipe is close to the pin so I use a long reach 7mm allen key on a socket.
At this point I remove the electrical connector this just un-clips, try not to be to forceful with the clips as they are easy snapped (this was done when I got the car, must replace it at some point)
The electrical connection going to the brake pads is held in place by a little plastic tab lift this up and twist 90deg and slide out.
At this point you can remove the caliper, it should be supported by either using cable ties or like I did but something underneath. I also removed the brake disc at this point point, it's held in place with a torx head screw, remove this and you can slide the disc out. (Not sure if you can do this on all A6 models, some you will have to remove the caliper mount to remove the disc).
Pad was so warn that the sensor wire was lose from the pad.
Also the inner pad had far more wear than the outer pad
New inner v old inner
Next was to clean up the caliper mount and caliper, I just used a manual wire brush, but an electric one would have been better, but will do that when I get a chance to paint the calipers & mount.
I also removed all the rust from the lip of the brake disc
At this point you will need to push the piston back into the caliper, this will need the following tool.
You can then fit the new pads, I also run the sensor cable behind the brake pipe to keep it out of the way
Once done refit the caliper, tighten up the pins and refit the spring, also don't forget the dust caps!
Do that for the other side. Before you start the engine push the brake pedal a few time unit it goes hard, that will push the fluid back into the caliper and push the pads into the disc.
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As I had done the front I figured I'd take a look at the rear brakes, as they tend to get a bit more abuse due to the amount of crap that get chuck up to the rear of the car. Also a new set of pads was only £36 so why figured I would change them.
To change the rear pads on the A6 you mush have access to VCDS or another diagnostic program to wind back the calipers, you cannot do this manually, if you try you will just damage the caliper. Also you will find that even after you have electronically wind back the caliper, you will still need a tool to push the piston fully back into the caliper.
Once the car is jacked up and the wheel removed you need a 13mm & 15mm spanner to remove the old bolts, there should be a new set of bolts with the brake pads so just chuck the old bolts.
Once the caliper is removed pries out the brake pad guides, with some pads you will get new guide, but not with the padig set.
On the 3.0TDi you can remove the rear disc without taking the caliper mount off, but not sure if this can be done on all models.
Both the caliper and mount are in a poor state and need some cleaning, again I just used a manual wire brush, but will attack with an electric one when I get chance to paint the calipers
On the calipers make sure both the guide pins move smoothly in the caliper mount, if they are stuck then to clean them out and re-grease, if they are still bad then you will need a new caliper mount, as they should move freely.
To be fair the pads only looked about 50% worn, but they were replaced anyway.
Guides & pads refitted.
Next was to push back the piston, this was the location of the piston after using VCDS.
Location of the piston after push back the piston using this tool
Caliper was then refitted, and the other side was done.
When both sides are done using VCDS the piston were put back in the normal state. You then need to apply the handbrake and this should stop the flashing brake warning light on the dash.
To change the rear pads on the A6 you mush have access to VCDS or another diagnostic program to wind back the calipers, you cannot do this manually, if you try you will just damage the caliper. Also you will find that even after you have electronically wind back the caliper, you will still need a tool to push the piston fully back into the caliper.
Once the car is jacked up and the wheel removed you need a 13mm & 15mm spanner to remove the old bolts, there should be a new set of bolts with the brake pads so just chuck the old bolts.
Once the caliper is removed pries out the brake pad guides, with some pads you will get new guide, but not with the padig set.
On the 3.0TDi you can remove the rear disc without taking the caliper mount off, but not sure if this can be done on all models.
Both the caliper and mount are in a poor state and need some cleaning, again I just used a manual wire brush, but will attack with an electric one when I get chance to paint the calipers
On the calipers make sure both the guide pins move smoothly in the caliper mount, if they are stuck then to clean them out and re-grease, if they are still bad then you will need a new caliper mount, as they should move freely.
To be fair the pads only looked about 50% worn, but they were replaced anyway.
Guides & pads refitted.
Next was to push back the piston, this was the location of the piston after using VCDS.
Location of the piston after push back the piston using this tool
Caliper was then refitted, and the other side was done.
When both sides are done using VCDS the piston were put back in the normal state. You then need to apply the handbrake and this should stop the flashing brake warning light on the dash.
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Slider pins were in perfect condition, both sides on the front were the same, the inner pad was more warn than the outer. The rears were about 50/50 on each pad.
finally got all the bits for my Bose installation.
One cost I did not count on was the replacement D pillar trims.
One cost I did not count on was the replacement D pillar trims.
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I thought the uneven wear come from the inner pad being pushed onto the disc by the piston first, then the caliper would need to move before the outer pad pressure is applied to the disc.
If the slider pins are sticking and don't run smoothly the caliper can't slide so can't transfer pressure onto the outside pad. There will always be more wear on the inside pad as it will always see more pressure than the outside one due to the friction in the slides and it will be running hotter as well.
Karl
Very well, I've been meaning to update this thread with the other things I've done, but the little one is taking so much time up it's unbelievable, I've go no idea how such a small baby can take up so much time, and the term "sleeping like a baby" is total BS, I've heard of the Duracell Bunny, but I've got the Duracell Baby she goes on, and on and on.....
Still the best thing I've ever done
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That was the strange thing both side were exactly the same and the slider pins were fine. I'll be stripping down the brakes next year when the weather improves and give them a paint. If I find the wear uneven again I may replace the pins and see how it goes.
Congrats mate - am with you on that front. Ours are 12 now (twins) and it's been non stop ever since!!!
Johny2202
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Very nice job with MMI 3g, perfect installation guide, like from ELSA or better... . I am planning make the same upgrade for my A6, I'm looking for gateway with these SW couple weeks, it's look like mission impossible...
. I am planning make the same upgrade for my A6, I'm looking for gateway with these SW couple weeks, it's look like mission impossible... 
Very nice job with MMI 3g, perfect installation guide, like from ELSA or better...
If you don't mind your car off the road for a few days then a cheap option is to get your gateway upgraded by kufatec. http://www.kufatec.de/shop/en/update-service/can-gateway-software-update-audi-vw
Johny2202
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