My minor modding thread

[S3AMJ]

Hi mate... no... not worked it out as yet... changing the CAN protocol for the clocks gets rid of it but unsure of the knock on... Brian suggested it so maybe worth pinging him

<tuffty/>

Ok cheers dude it’s odd because it never came up prior to the gearbox map, so thought maybe that was the cause. I’ll give Brian a shout and see what he thinks. It is something I could live with worse case. Did you ever get an issue with your YAW sensor since? Fault clears after recalibration and all good for a little while then returns.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Ok cheers dude it’s odd because it never came up prior to the gearbox map, so thought maybe that was the cause. I’ll give Brian a shout and see what he thinks. It is something I could live with worse case. Did you ever get an issue with your YAW sensor since? Fault clears after recalibration and all good for a little while then returns.

I have coded my ESP out so I may never see those errors if I get them

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

I think I’ll code mine out if it persists mate, turns out when ESP is off Ignitron still implements some form of “traction” control.

Do you code it out via VCDS or Ignitron dude?

 

[<tuffty/>]

I think I’ll code mine out if it persists mate, turns out when ESP is off Ignitron still implements some form of “traction” control.

Do you code it out via VCDS or Ignitron dude?

VCDS in the ABS module... only works on MK20 ABS modules iirc... don't remember the exact value but its either subtract 2048 or 1024 from the value to remove ESP... VCDS "should" pop up available values

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

Thanks mate, appreciate that.

 

[Rainbird]

2048 is the one - though I could never find the reason why despite lots of Googling. I've had to use it on the Golf to resolve the usual ESP issue running a quick rack (LCR/TT) on the standard GTI. Should have kept my ****** LCR, was far less faff for minor stuff like that

 

[desertstorm]

I think I’ll code mine out if it persists mate, turns out when ESP is off Ignitron still implements some form of “traction” control.

Do you code it out via VCDS or Ignitron dude?

I have had the ESP coded out on my TT for years with no issues. I did used to get intermittent errors with the Yaw sensor when I first had the car and there is a common issue with these. The IC on the PCB is very poorly soldered and can actually detach from the PCB. The PCB is potted in the box and when I removed it the IC detached from the PCB and was left in the potting material.
Ignitron doesn't implement any form traction control unless you configure it to do that. Disabling the ESP doesn't stop the ABS module from activating traction control.

 

[<tuffty/>]

I believe EDL is still active after using 2048 to code out ESP... there are further 'codes' (more a bitwise calculation) to disable EDL too but I left mine on.... I think... been a while

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

I have had the ESP coded out on my TT for years with no issues. I did used to get intermittent errors with the Yaw sensor when I first had the car and there is a common issue with these. The IC on the PCB is very poorly soldered and can actually detach from the PCB. The PCB is potted in the box and when I removed it the IC detached from the PCB and was left in the potting material.
Ignitron doesn't implement any form traction control unless you configure it to do that. Disabling the ESP doesn't stop the ABS module from activating traction control.

So your still able to use LC, Race mode, etc when ESP is coded out?
I’ve been given a known working YAW sensor, so I can always swap it out and see if it persists. Although it appears that the same issue is with Germains TT, so potentially using the TT DSG squib is at fault maybe?

 

[desertstorm]

So your still able to use LC, Race mode, etc when ESP is coded out?
I’ve been given a known working YAW sensor, so I can always swap it out and see if it persists. Although it appears that the same issue is with Germains TT, so potentially using the TT DSG squib is at fault maybe?

I swapped the squib in my car for the one used in the DSG cars as it has more ways available for the DSG paddle connections , I have no issues. With ESP disabled on the ABS I couldn't get launch control to work on my DSG gearbox as the stock software needs to see ESP switched off before allowing launch. When I enabled ESP on my ABS launch then worked correctly on the DSG gearbox. One of the reasons I had a TVS remap on my gearbox is they alter the mapping so launch works with or without ESP. Thus I can run without ESP and still have launch available on the DSG gearbox.
Race mode hasn't got anything to do with ESP working or not.

 

[S3AMJ]

I swapped the squib in my car for the one used in the DSG cars as it has more ways available for the DSG paddle connections , I have no issues. With ESP disabled on the ABS I couldn't get launch control to work on my DSG gearbox as the stock software needs to see ESP switched off before allowing launch. When I enabled ESP on my ABS launch then worked correctly on the DSG gearbox. One of the reasons I had a TVS remap on my gearbox is they alter the mapping so launch works with or without ESP. Thus I can run without ESP and still have launch available on the DSG gearbox.
Race mode hasn't got anything to do with ESP working or not.

I’ve also got a TVS map on my gearbox now, thanks to Badger5. I was under the impression that you couldn’t launch without abs as you rightly pointed out, I wasn’t aware that you can run with it without or without ESP though with the TVS map, I’m unsure weather my map has that “enabled” per say. Race mode is purely just how I’ve got mine setup, it’s enabled when turning off ESP via the button on the dash, just makes everything simpler that’s all. One button does all basically. Something I’ll look into once I’ve got the car back from Bill. Also something to consider is mines a DQ500 rather than the DQ250.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Been a while I know but been busy with work and nothing much to report on the car until now...

I had noticed the rear brake lines were looking a little past their sell by date so had bought up the stuff to sort the front to rear hardlines and flexi's... I had already replaced the lines to the rear calipers when I did the rear calipers

I have been putting it off for ages as the one line means I have to drop the fuel tank and its not a job I particularly relish doing on axle stands outside the house... but... while checking out if I could just cut and shut the line to replace just the bad bit...

...it kinda broke... Soooooo... guess I just needed to suck it up and get it done...

Used a plug and bleed nipple to stop fluid from leaking from the ABS unit while I faffed about under the car... had to use an M10x1 and M12x1 as they are different for whatever reason VAG decided on...

As is the way with the 8L these days... parts are proving difficult to get and I could only find one line (nearside) which even then wasn't the right one exactly missing the flexi part....

The nearside line wasn't as bad as the offside oddly but it was still pretty grim...

This of course was the easy line to replace ironically...

Now for the fun bit (said no one ever)... had to drop the prop and various heatshields.... followed by the tank... thank fully it only needed to tip down a bit at the front so no need to fully undo and drop it...

Bit of wrangling and out it came...

As I couldn't find a part OE or otherwise for this I bought some cupro-nickel tubing... bit more resilient to the weather than bog std copper...

As the OE line was steel I taped the replacement tubing as I was bending it to make it a bit easier to handle and also helped get the shape as close as I can

Took the line up to Bills so Alex could use his fancy flaring tool to sort the ends...

....should mention that some pillock (that would be me) managed to use the wrong fittings (some imperial things I had laying about) rather than the proper 10x1 so I had to cut the flare off and get them redone with the right ones (DOH!)

I of course painted the pipe before fitting it back in...

..and bled everything up...

Have to say the pedal feels better than it did given I recently replaced the fluid and bled everything before so I do wonder if that pipe was flexing where it was thin... scary thought tbh....

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Not a lot to report but I have been doing a little beta testing for a new IECU firmware that addresses specific issues to do with the Cxx TCU my gearbox has... being the first iteration and the dumbest of the TCU's getting things like rev matching to work appears to be different to the later TCU's and before the car would lurch forward (as though not disengaging the clutch properly) on downshifts... this is now fixed and the car drives much smoother now...

I have been chasing a clunk from the front of the car too... this as it turns out was initially down to the the thread going on the rear subframe mount in the body...

So out with the helicoil kit...

Got full torque and yield spec on the bolt after that so happy days... however... there is still a slight clunk (not as bad as before) on hard acceleration and the only other thing I can think it might be is the replacement poly jobbers on the rear of the subframe aren't gripping the body as well as OE as it sounds much like the subframe shift clunk common in Mk5 chassis cars..

Needless to say I need to get the car in the air on a ramp and do a complete spanner check as the whole conversion was done on stands outside the house (not a bad thing) and its easy to miss something when you have limited space (and really bad close up eyesight lol)

While testing the firmware I also played with the boost a bit hoping that I could potentially get back up to 1.2bar but alas the clutches weren't having any of it and so I brought the profile back down again to keep the box happy...

Bit of playing about with the PID and imax etc and...

That is pretty bob on to what I was going for... the engine feels strong when on boost which is far earlier than the 20v could do (for obvious reasons) and the less aggressive torque onset keeps the box happy and is less likely to break things

Reported hp I think is a bit off but would need to get on the dyno to confirm... I suspect with the lower boost I might be knocking on the door of 500hp given at 1.2bar I managed 524hp...

Future work should only really be remedial now but need to chase this clunk... will look to rebuild my spare DSG box with a new clutch pack (Golf R is the one to use apparently) and might try and source an Fxx TCU as this would improve the box operation as a whole I think... the Cxx is a nightmare when cold... won't change into 2nd in drive so have to force it... assumedly this is a cold oil thing...

I also still have the rest of the body work to look at, rear subframe/diff refurb (and I still want to try this 8P rear diff conversion) but other than that I think the old girl is in a good place... until something else breaks lol

<tuffty/>

 

[Gops]

Not a lot to report but I have been doing a little beta testing for a new IECU firmware that addresses specific issues to do with the Cxx TCU my gearbox has... being the first iteration and the dumbest of the TCU's getting things like rev matching to work appears to be different to the later TCU's and before the car would lurch forward (as though not disengaging the clutch properly) on downshifts... this is now fixed and the car drives much smoother now...

I have been chasing a clunk from the front of the car too... this as it turns out was initially down to the the thread going on the rear subframe mount in the body...
View attachment 271133

So out with the helicoil kit...
View attachment 271134

View attachment 271135

Got full torque and yield spec on the bolt after that so happy days... however... there is still a slight clunk (not as bad as before) on hard acceleration and the only other thing I can think it might be is the replacement poly jobbers on the rear of the subframe aren't gripping the body as well as OE as it sounds much like the subframe shift clunk common in Mk5 chassis cars..

Needless to say I need to get the car in the air on a ramp and do a complete spanner check as the whole conversion was done on stands outside the house (not a bad thing) and its easy to miss something when you have limited space (and really bad close up eyesight lol)

While testing the firmware I also played with the boost a bit hoping that I could potentially get back up to 1.2bar but alas the clutches weren't having any of it and so I brought the profile back down again to keep the box happy...
View attachment 271137

Bit of playing about with the PID and imax etc and...
View attachment 271136

That is pretty bob on to what I was going for... the engine feels strong when on boost which is far earlier than the 20v could do (for obvious reasons) and the less aggressive torque onset keeps the box happy and is less likely to break things

Reported hp I think is a bit off but would need to get on the dyno to confirm... I suspect with the lower boost I might be knocking on the door of 500hp given at 1.2bar I managed 524hp...

Future work should only really be remedial now but need to chase this clunk... will look to rebuild my spare DSG box with a new clutch pack (Golf R is the one to use apparently) and might try and source an Fxx TCU as this would improve the box operation as a whole I think... the Cxx is a nightmare when cold... won't change into 2nd in drive so have to force it... assumedly this is a cold oil thing...

I also still have the rest of the body work to look at, rear subframe/diff refurb (and I still want to try this 8P rear diff conversion) but other than that I think the old girl is in a good place... until something else breaks lol

Looking lovely as always PT! I looked into this 8P rear diff thing back when I had my S3, although short lived but packaging wise it looked like it fits. Not sure on the Haldex controller but worth a punt!


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[Stuart B]

Good to see you're still posting forum updates Tuffty... so is the transmission holding the car back, or is it in the zone.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Good to see you're still posting forum updates Tuffty... so is the transmission holding the car back, or is it in the zone.

Its a combination of things tbh... the TCU itself is about at its max clamp pressure without patching the map with custom code to increase that... the box itself was on 80k when I got it and no telling what sort of life the clutch pack has had... there are ways you can use VCDS to determine wear but in reality its largely irrelevant....

The box itself mechanically is based around an 02M so there are limitations there if I push the torque and the engine is on the upper end of what I believe is safe in its current configuration without going for a bottom end build

If I wanted to push further (and the 3.2 VR has a lot to give) then I would need to build the bottom end to be safe, bigger injectors as I am at 85% IDC on the 630's I have, DQ500 DSG gearbox to take the increased torque...

As it stands I am around the torque figure my 20v was making but it comes in sooner and holds longer (albeit to a lower rev limit) and nothing is being nearly as stressed as the 20v build...

Fitting Golf R clutches and an Fxx TCU will not really help the longevity of the box as the limiting factor is the internals on the DQ250 at that point... the DQ500 is a far stronger gearbox in comparison

I am 'hoping' that I am in the zone as you say for both the engine and box... the setup seems happy at the moment but I guess only time will tell... obviously its hugely subject to how one drives the car... driving a highly tuned car is always going to narrow the reliability window but she feels less fragile than the 20v setup did for sure

<tuffty/>