my s3 project build
- Thread starter hydro s3
- Start date
Had the car over to a garage to get the passenger sill replaced. There was a lot of rust and a hole at the rear jacking point.
Supposed to be a professional welder doing it for 30 years but some how the amateur managed to set the car on fire fs. So he burned a module for the rear lights the paint work is all bubbled up near the rear window (the car was only resprayed a year and half ago) and there is a few wires burnt that run behind the rear passenger card.
They where luck they didn't blow the car up since the meth line runs along there aswell.
He said he will have it all sorted for me at no cost (awful nice of him lol) and should get it back by the end of the week.
They where luck they didn't blow the car up since the meth line runs along there aswell.
He said he will have it all sorted for me at no cost (awful nice of him lol) and should get it back by the end of the week.
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That be a real shame, you have done so much work improving the car.
Oh, man..
I know exactly what your feelings feel like, dealing with such people is very painful because you loose soo much time, money and they produce lots of unnecessary headache.
No matter what they do, you shouldn’t leave the car in such hands from now on!
I know exactly what your feelings feel like, dealing with such people is very painful because you loose soo much time, money and they produce lots of unnecessary headache.
No matter what they do, you shouldn’t leave the car in such hands from now on!
@Ian W I agree totally. Garages here only seem to want to oil changes or simple wee jobs.
It was picked up by the mot center as a hole where the rear jacking point is. So when they took the plastic sill cover of it was completely rusted.
@killfame he was the only welder near me and thought it was simple enough job to do that he would be able to it without lighting the car. I had thought about h doing the other side but after this muck up I don't think I'll bother.
It was picked up by the mot center as a hole where the rear jacking point is. So when they took the plastic sill cover of it was completely rusted.
@killfame he was the only welder near me and thought it was simple enough job to do that he would be able to it without lighting the car. I had thought about h doing the other side but after this muck up I don't think I'll bother.
So got the car back but now with more problems. CD changer doesn't work and I have the eml light on.
Would these codes be a failing fuel pump or has this amateur done something else
Also have a drivers headlight not working so hopefully only the headlight bulb as the side light works fine.
Would these codes be a failing fuel pump or has this amateur done something else
Also have a drivers headlight not working so hopefully only the headlight bulb as the side light works fine.
@desertstorm thanks for replying. Yeah mate car runs and drives just every so often the eml light comes on and these are the codes. I can clear them and drive and it might not come on again until the nxt day again.
Car has started burning oil. A mate was behind me and he said when I accelerate there was puffs of blue smoke and sitting at light I can see wee clouds if smoke. Now I'm hoping it's just stem seals but what do more experience people think this could be?
What’s your turbo looking like Marc? Could be potentially burning oil from there. Be worth inspecting that.
Yeah I would look at turbo? I thought your car was fully rebuilt or were the seals not touched ? Mine smokes when sitting for a while but hardly anything to be honest, fresh oil change won’t hurt ?
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@S3AMJ I will get the mechanic to look at the turbo when he's taking the gearbox out as there is a leak in a seal so he said gearbox out job. So might be a good time to think of the dsg conversion.
@Brad1011 yeah the motor was built 2017 and all the seals,rings and all that jazz and then the turbo was done 2019 but I suppose ny part can fail.
@Brad1011 yeah the motor was built 2017 and all the seals,rings and all that jazz and then the turbo was done 2019 but I suppose ny part can fail.
Where has the parts request gone on the site I can't seem to find it.
I need 2 seals for the transfer box and the gearbox guy is saying they are £200 each which seems a stroking price
I need 2 seals for the transfer box and the gearbox guy is saying they are £200 each which seems a stroking price
Are they the the 2 round green seals 7 and 9 in the diagram. I don't think they are available from VAG any more. The sizes are on the diagram so you may get them elsewhere. £200 is a joke. I have reused them before with no issues.
@desertstorm yeah the ones I need are the ones that are £200 each. He says they have perished to much to reuse so no other option really but to pay it.
I'm feed up with the driveway looking like I break cars for a living.
I'm feed up with the driveway looking like I break cars for a living.
I have to agree with Karl here mate, just measure them and buy the same sized ones. They be like a few £ each max!! Just be sure they are green, generally the colours indicate there chemical resistance. £200 is him having your pants down!
So this car and mechanic's are really trying my patients these days.
They finally put the gearbox back in the car after 8 weeks for a 2 week job he had said at the start.
Now I don't have a working after run pump,air con fan,radiator fan and climate controls don't work.
He's basically washed his hands of it and told me to come collect it and take it to a auto electrician but of course he's looking £619 for the privilege of breaking the car more than when it went in.
I honestly don't know where to start as they could have not connected something or broke wires putting the gearbox and the rest back on.
I'm going to take my laptop down since it's running ignitron and see if there is any code's coming up.
Is there away to test the fans by the laptop?
It's also got the colour mfa so is there anything on that that I could check?
They finally put the gearbox back in the car after 8 weeks for a 2 week job he had said at the start.
Now I don't have a working after run pump,air con fan,radiator fan and climate controls don't work.
He's basically washed his hands of it and told me to come collect it and take it to a auto electrician but of course he's looking £619 for the privilege of breaking the car more than when it went in.
I honestly don't know where to start as they could have not connected something or broke wires putting the gearbox and the rest back on.
I'm going to take my laptop down since it's running ignitron and see if there is any code's coming up.
Is there away to test the fans by the laptop?
It's also got the colour mfa so is there anything on that that I could check?
****** awful that mate and sadly hearing more and more of this kind of thing now.
I was done over for £2.5k for a clutch change in the summer and mine has never driven right since, they just want more money to try and find the fault that wasn't there before they stripped the front end and drive gear off the car.
It sounds as though your issue could be a fuse or possibly an earth? I'd be checking the fuses on top of the battery first as they will have had all that off. There is also an earth on top of the gearbox that would be worth checking.
You can test the fans using the fan switch and a paper clip but no idea if you can do it using your laptop.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Sounds like an issue with fan controller relay under the battery tray: 1J0919506K
I bought a new Febi unit after having continued issues with a 'good' used unit.
Fixed after run pump and radiator fan issues for me. I did have AC issues too, but haven't had a regas to know if the controller fixed that as well.
Didn't generate any errors on stock ECU for me.
Might be something else of course.
Hope you can get things sorted.
I bought a new Febi unit after having continued issues with a 'good' used unit.
Fixed after run pump and radiator fan issues for me. I did have AC issues too, but haven't had a regas to know if the controller fixed that as well.
Didn't generate any errors on stock ECU for me.
Might be something else of course.
Hope you can get things sorted.
@Ian W you are spot on all mechanics want to do now is simple oil changes or breaks. Over here they are a joke mate. He said he had double checked all the earth's and any plugs that where taken of. I'll check the fuses but I'd like to think that they would have the sense to check them aswell.
@vanilla_ice where did you buy the fan controller from? Was it on auto doc or a TPS part?
@vanilla_ice where did you buy the fan controller from? Was it on auto doc or a TPS part?
I am so lucky I am able to do stuff myself and don't have to rely on wasters who can't do a proper job and try and rip people off. If you are paying good money you expect the job to be done correctly. There are too many people who haven't got a clue what they are doing.
What year is your car? I had a quick look on Elsawin and I thought you would have a radiator fan control module like my TT, but looks like on earlier cars it was simply a relay and switch affair. Check the fuses in the fuse box on top of the battery and make sure they are all good. The connector for the radiator temperatre sensor is like a triangular shape and it is possible to put it on more than 1 way . It wont plug fully in but if you are not paying attention then the fans won't run.
I went for a Febi aftermarket part. I think it came from Amazon.
Sorry, I did also replace the radiator temperature sensor. I believe this was either Febi or Meyle.
Both were very easy to replace. Perhaps replace the cheapest of the two parts first and go from there.
@desertstorm the car is a 2001 audi s3.
I've ordered a fan control module using the part number that @vanilla_ice posted up and hopefully it will arrive tomorrow and I can get it fitted.
Where abouts is it located? If I take out the battery is it there and can it be replaced from the top or do I need to get underneath the car?
Thanks
I've ordered a fan control module using the part number that @vanilla_ice posted up and hopefully it will arrive tomorrow and I can get it fitted.
Where abouts is it located? If I take out the battery is it there and can it be replaced from the top or do I need to get underneath the car?
Thanks
You can do it all from above, but may be restricted by cable lengths.
Remove battery and battery tray.
There two small bolts towards front panel that hold the controller from above.
This video shows another way of getting to it.
View: https://youtu.be/HF_eALEpfv8?si=RPtGuohOMZxXEUWV
Releasing the cables was harder that removing the controller from what I remember.
Remove battery and battery tray.
There two small bolts towards front panel that hold the controller from above.
This video shows another way of getting to it.
View: https://youtu.be/HF_eALEpfv8?si=RPtGuohOMZxXEUWV
Releasing the cables was harder that removing the controller from what I remember.
Just to update this thread. I replaced the fan control module and now have a working after run pump. The air con fan doesn't come on so I'm hoping it only comes on when the outside temp is at a certain temp.
I found it easier to get to by removing the battery and tray and removing the 2 10mm screws. The YouTube video above that @vanilla_ice posted and thanks by the way shows a guy doing it from below but I couldn't get to the 2 screws holding it on.
I found it easier to get to by removing the battery and tray and removing the 2 10mm screws. The YouTube video above that @vanilla_ice posted and thanks by the way shows a guy doing it from below but I couldn't get to the 2 screws holding it on.
