More problems with the car.
Went to the shop earlier car drove no problem at all. Got home forgot something went to go back out and car just turns over no firing. I've scanned for any codes but nothing there.
I'm thinking a fueling or spark issue although I can hear the fuel pump priming.
I will pull out the plugs tomorrow to see if there is spark and I'll see if I can get the injectors of to make sure they are fine.
Is there anything else I should check?
 
What's the RPM when it is turning over? It should be 200... if its not then crank shaft position sensor?
 
@Stuart B you called it correctly mate. I ended up scanning it again today and got 2 codes for the crankshaft position sensor.
Screenshot 20220602 191502 Gallery
 
See with me running the ignitron ecu now that will mean the garage won't be able to read any faults I have isn't that correct? Just so I know whether to leave the laptop in the car. I have the AA coming out this afternoon so they will probably tow it to a garage.
 
It's not that difficult to replace the crankshsft sensor, maybe something you could do yourself. I think a generic OBD reader may be able read codes if the CAN lines are connected to the OBD socket.
 
@desertstorm already round at a garden mate.
I was told it can a nightmare to get to on these engines. I know it's beside the oil filter housing but some have said that all needs to come of so just thought a garage can do.
 
I bought a new set of alloys for the car. This time I went with a set of JR11. They sent new bolts which I won't be using because of the spacers I use but I'm not sure if the old bolts are the same as the new ones.
The silver are my old ones and black are the new ones. Do they look like the same only shorter and OK to use on the new alloys?
20220718 124528
IMG 20220718 WA0002
 
No they are not OK to use.
Your standard bolts are of a ‘dome’ type, most OEM’s use these.
The aftermarket wheels use a ‘cone’ type.
You need to get longer cone type bolts for your new wheels.
I personally know of wheels falling off by using the incorrect types. Don’t risk it.
 
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The bolts are usually described as radius seat or taper seat. As above OE wheels and some aftermarket wheels can have radius seats, But most aftermarket wheels have taper seats. And as stated above fitting the wrong bolts to a wheel is not good and can result in the bolts coming loose.
 
Cheers lads I did think they where different. Do yous know of a good place to get new bolts from. The only place local to me would be a halfords and not sure they would have what I need.
 
Don't forget to check the installed length including your wheels spacers if you have them... off the shelf longer bolts don't always cater for this and its easy especially on the front to have a bolt thats just a bit too long hit the ABS ring on the hub....

You can easily measure this using your existing bolts on current wheel/spacer setup... measure how much the bolt extends past the spacer/wheel face, fit the spacer and use the new bolts the same way and measure again... you then need to add the difference on to the new bolt to get "the right size"

I had to cut my fronts down a bit using radius bolts on OE wheels and 10mm spacers... I don't recall the length though off hand

<tuffty/>
 
Where are people getting there wheel spacers from?
I'm looking 15mm for the front because the 10mm I have aren't clearing the brembos that are on the car.
I've ordered a set from cbauto.co.uk but I've been waiting 3 weeks for delivery so I've no confidence that they will ever be delivered.
I've saw some priced at £150 but thats seems a bit extortionate for all they are.
 
Where are people getting there wheel spacers from?
I'm looking 15mm for the front because the 10mm I have aren't clearing the brembos that are on the car.
I've ordered a set from cbauto.co.uk but I've been waiting 3 weeks for delivery so I've no confidence that they will ever be delivered.
I've saw some priced at £150 but thats seems a bit extortionate for all they are.

I've bought ones off eBay, I think they were called MTECH, most of us the on TT Forum ran them.

Also had H&R from DPM which arrived within a day or two.
 
The lights on my cup holder,climate controls and the esp button have stopped lighting up but they work as they should just no lights.
Is there a separate fuse for the lights? Seems strange they all just stopped lighting up.
 
Well I thought with the end of the summer fast approaching it was time to do the sagging headliner job I was putting of as long as I could.
I started on Friday and stripped the inside trim and slid the headliner out. Then used a 50mm wire crimped brush (needed 2 of them) and took the old foam and glue of.
Then Saturday I cut the new fabric and stuck it down with no nonsense contact adhesive from screfix.
In my rush to get it back in the car I never took and good pictures of it finished.
This is it after about 30 mins. Its very messy.
20220819 135716

This it when I got it all of ready to stick the new one on.
20220819 153633

I will put a link below to the fabric I
used. I got 2 meters of it which was plenty.
 
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Ordered a new aerial from audi back at the start of June and arrived in today. Hopefully get that fitted some time over the next couple of days.
It was £47 incase anyone else needs one.
20220829 121854

Audi Tradition have also started to post again to GB and Northern Ireland. I was looking at a few of there parts and then sent them a email to ask about delivery and they replied and said.
 
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@S3AMJ I did think that aswell and would be interesting to see if that was the case.
How accurate do you think ignitron to test that and see?
They are also going to start selling the E10 petrol here from 1st November but from what I've read about people using it in England it's not very good for there cars so I'll be staying away from that.
 
@S3AMJ I did think that aswell and would be interesting to see if that was the case.
How accurate do you think ignitron to test that and see?
They are also going to start selling the E10 petrol here from 1st November but from what I've read about people using it in England it's not very good for there cars so I'll be staying away from that.
Ignitron is a little hit and miss on it’s bhp outputs, sometimes it’s within 10bhp and sometimes it’s quite a bit over. Obviously the best way to test it is to do a 3rd gear pull on a super flat, straight road from around 1800rpm.

Yeah lots of speculation on the E10 stuff, I personally would never run my S3 on it, I have occasionally run my A3 3.2 Quattro on it with no ill effect other then it maybe isn’t as good on the mpg.
 
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"stops" pinging is a bold statement but additives do help... dunno on that one in particular but I know Bill has tested a few in the past and used a few on customer cars that come in with '95' expecting decent power from a map....

Obviously it will only really prevent the timing you have from being pulled so actual gains are will be minimal unless you tune for it (boost/timing).... WMI has a similar effect

<tuffty/>
 
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"stops" pinging is a bold statement but additives do help... dunno on that one in particular but I know Bill has tested a few in the past and used a few on customer cars that come in with '95' expecting decent power from a map....

Obviously it will only really prevent the timing you have from being pulled so actual gains are will be minimal unless you tune for it (boost/timing).... WMI has a similar effect

<tuffty/>
As tuffy says wmi has a similar effect, infact water is the best octane booster there is!
 
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Cheers lads I will just give it a miss then.
I thought it would have made some good benefits like highering up the ron a good bit.
depends what you are chasing tbh... if on track (track days and the like) then it will help keep the engine a bit happier and safer... if just used for a bit of traffic light grand prix then not so much in the way of tangible benefit... much like WMI... you can use it to tune too and gain a bit more in the pub figures discussion and an extra 10th of a second on track whilst making the engine overly dependant on it or keep the tune as is and you use it to keeps things consistent...

Bang for buck is generally out the window as you are deeply in the realm of depreciating returns but if you live in an area where fuel quality is variable at best then its useful for that at least

<tuffty/>
 
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Wasn't chasing anything as such. It was more a curious questions to see if I put £50 of 97ron and a bottle of booster what would the ron number go up to then? Also with me finding a garage here that now sells 99ron I thought the ron would have went even more with would increase the bhp.
My car is only for fast road drives and it uses twin nozzle meth kit.
 
Just bite the bullet and get AEM Water Meth Injection with some Quantum screenwash - that'll get your Octane up to 110+ and cool the IATs

Then you can tell everyone is just for engine safety, but instead you'll ramp up the boost for an extra 30%
 
Yeah not seen that one before Marc either, one that has been proven for some benefits is Octainium Octane Booster. However you really need to map for it for any real benefit. I did once contemplate going this route with an octane booster to squeeze a little more out, but I think realistically, more power = bigger turbo. You can get 99Ron where you are now anyway can’t you?
 
Yeah mate I can run the 99ron here. I'm a bit weary of whether it is actually 99ron though. As tesco,esso or any other garage sell it and shell pulled out of Northern Ireland all together and I'm near sure down in the Republic of Ireland they only get 95ron. We don't have a refinery here for the 99ron so the solo garage have to be mixing it themselves some where.
The reason I asked about that octane booster is that Nick prawn was saying about it in one of his YouTube videos that one of his sponsors sent it over to him but he never said how good it was or bad.
 
If you already have WMI, why would you want this? Surely your already keeping increasing the timing advance? I think water alone would be better than fuel additive, or try mixing it in worth the WMI.... I know it says don't include hydro-carbons.... but as long as you have a fire extinguisher... what's the worst that can happen?
 
@Stuart B I'd want this to run along with the wmi.
I thought at the start to run them both. As the wmi would lower iat for more hp and then the octane booster would have lifted the fuel up which in turn would again get more hp.
But as its been explained by @<tuffty/> its not worth it.
Maybe if I'm looked more boost it might be time to think of my turbo set up
 
Well I thought with the end of the summer fast approaching it was time to do the sagging headliner job I was putting of as long as I could.
I started on Friday and stripped the inside trim and slid the headliner out. Then used a 50mm wire crimped brush (needed 2 of them) and took the old foam and glue of.
Then Saturday I cut the new fabric and stuck it down with no nonsense contact adhesive from screfix.
In my rush to get it back in the car I never took and good pictures of it finished.
This is it after about 30 mins. Its very messy.View attachment 258129
This it when I got it all of ready to stick the new one on.View attachment 258130
I will put a link below to the fabric I
used. I got 2 meters of it which was plenty.
Still happy with the results @hydro s3 ?
Did you redo the a pillar trims or was the match close enough not too?