New 2.0t Special Ed. Owner

[Conneh]

Hello!

I was the proud owner of B5.5 Passat 1.9TDI PD 130 until it recently died of rust and general old age. I have been on the look out for a replacement estate that would ferry me to and from the train station (few miles each way), the odd weekend shift on construction sites and taking the dogs out comfortably in the boot. I had it in my mind that I would replace it with another Passat, however an advert caught my eye on Friday for a B7 Audi A4 2.0T Avant - and on Saturday morning it was sat outside my house on impulse.

I done some brief research on here, which was enough give me anxiety on purchasing a high mileage car but after giving it a test drive I was impressed.

It's a 2006 A4, 2.0T FSI Special Edition (Mark 1) from what I can gather reading on here. DTM wheels, black headliner, heated seats etc. It's lovely to sit in! The car has just ticked over 137,000 miles and so far nearly everything seems to work. The gear box feels tight and it seems to go ok (although I'm use to diesel and I'm a little nervous to push it just yet in case it breaks!). No funny noises from the engine that are concerning and it handles as it should - I think.

All in all, I'm happy. Its a comfortable place to sit and is generally a great looking cabin for the age. The seats have little wear and having heated seats is great.

I've pulled together the service history below, hoping people can advise on any 'preventative' maintenance that may need doing. From what I read on Friday night, the 'Cam Follower' is weak - however the BUL 220 built by GbmH was better, plus engines from 2006 on had an improvement part. If any of that is true, I don't know.

As I said though, generally it feels like a lot of car for the money and hopefully I can tease a few more miles out of it (I've seem some high milers on here). Plus it's rust free - a bonus. If anyone is the Hampshire area, north ideally that could recommend an reasonable Indi garage that knows there way around these then do shout.
Few pics;

 

[Charlie Farley]

Welcome chap.
you are indeed in the best place for all things B7 and you will never be short on assistance on here.

Yours is indeed a MK1 and one of the early ones as it also has the amber indicator lens, this was changed later on and later Mk1's had the clear lens.

It appears to have a good service history but don't rely on that alone.

All the 2.0tfsi special editions were made at the RS factory along side the S4's and RS4's , BUL engine was only fitted to the tfsi special edition and DTM .
Cam follower was revised in the BUL engine but still wears , just not a fast as the others.

These cars do have some really annoying faults so don't be surprised if you get the odd one occasionally, we all have suffered from them just some more than others...lol

you do get a lot of car for your money , and yes they are very nice to sit in, better still to drive one properly.

enjoy it.

rob

 

[Charlie Farley]

I really like the R36 , i saw one this afternoon pass by the MOT garage i was sitting outside.

 

[Binkx]

Hello!

I was the proud owner of B5.5 Passat 1.9TDI PD 130 until it recently died of rust and general old age. I have been on the look out for a replacement estate that would ferry me to and from the train station (few miles each way), the odd weekend shift on construction sites and taking the dogs out comfortably in the boot. I had it in my mind that I would replace it with another Passat, however an advert caught my eye on Friday for a B7 Audi A4 2.0T Avant - and on Saturday morning it was sat outside my house on impulse.

I done some brief research on here, which was enough give me anxiety on purchasing a high mileage car but after giving it a test drive I was impressed.

It's a 2006 A4, 2.0T FSI Special Edition (Mark 1) from what I can gather reading on here. DTM wheels, black headliner, heated seats etc. It's lovely to sit in! The car has just ticked over 137,000 miles and so far nearly everything seems to work. The gear box feels tight and it seems to go ok (although I'm use to diesel and I'm a little nervous to push it just yet in case it breaks!). No funny noises from the engine that are concerning and it handles as it should - I think.

All in all, I'm happy. Its a comfortable place to sit and is generally a great looking cabin for the age. The seats have little wear and having heated seats is great.

I've pulled together the service history below, hoping people can advise on any 'preventative' maintenance that may need doing. From what I read on Friday night, the 'Cam Follower' is weak - however the BUL 220 built by GbmH was better, plus engines from 2006 on had an improvement part. If any of that is true, I don't know.

View attachment 237107
As I said though, generally it feels like a lot of car for the money and hopefully I can tease a few more miles out of it (I've seem some high milers on here). Plus it's rust free - a bonus. If anyone is the Hampshire area, north ideally that could recommend an reasonable Indi garage that knows there way around these then do shout.
Few pics;
View attachment 237108View attachment 237109View attachment 237110

Hi conneh, I’d certainly say I’m no expert on car but tinkered here and there.

I’ve got much the same car but a 2007 later model with Quattro and the black engine cover. Currently on 141K- so relatively high mileage too.

So far things out of maintenance schedule I’ve had to deal with are:

•replaced thermo stat which prevented the cooling system to reach 90*C sat at 85-87
•oil leak from vacuum pump, this leaked oil down the back of the engine next to the firewall, could be see from the turbo side and you could see it leaking onto the gearbox- this substantially reduced my oil consumption.
•had a very small weep from the coolant flange which sits bellow the vacuum pump,which was changed at the same time as the above issue.
•replaced the cam follower at 125kish and had minimum wear on the coating. Like 3/5mm shiny spot in the middle at 116k and going to have another look soon.
•recently had a rear spring break and also a damper. The car had a fairly saggy rear end since I got it at 110k. Replaced both

I also had the timing chain tensioner changed at 135k. Mechanic didn’t say anything looked out the ordinary when he was doing it.... except it did take longer (2hrs) due to a ceased bolt on the cam adjuster. There are some internet horror stories about the tensioner going. This isn’t a cheap job though. Pros and cons and all that.

there’s an update oil pick up pipe in the sump. This is suppose to help with issues with it apparently clogging (Sludge/Cam chain adjuster bits of plastic)which can in extreme cases cause oil starvation.
I haven’t dealt with this but I do have the part. Mines a Quattro so means dropping subframe and not doing that myself and waiting to tie it into other work.
I know the car has regular oil changes with only fully synthetic from new which apparently helps with sludge as a general statement for most cars.
if it’s a FWD you can do it fairly easier I hear.

I also changed out the snub motor mount (cheap and easy job) which was in a sorry state. I feel like vibrations in the cabin and the seat increased after this. I have leaky motor mount(s) which I think the old soft and spongy sunb mount helped to dampen..... but I can live with this.

there’s other bits and bobs of work done but nothing serious or outside typical maintenance, think, battery, fuel filter, air filter, plugs brake pads, trans and diff oil

I guess with higher mileage cars the question is always is the work worth while the cost etc. I do as much as I can myself to keep costs down and enjoy doing it myself.

 

[Conneh]

Hi both! Thanks for that, very helpful.

I managed to do a 50 mile round trip this week and nothing is of huge concern yet. I think the thermostat may need replacing, it appeared to be stuck open but then did reach 90 on the way back so will keep an eye on it.

Having never driven one before I’m not sure what to expect. It doesn’t pick up speed like I thought it might - not sure how many of the 217bhp is left! It’s no slouch, but feels a little on the lazy side — no obvious increase in the power curve. There’s not much of a turbo noise that I can hear, this may be normal from I have read? Was very obvious on the Passat when it spooled, it could be I’m enjoying the Bose system too much.

I have had a look at doing the cam follower but I feel that’s abit to technical for me - I have a socket set and that’s it.

The DV seems like a common replacement part and fairly easy to do, I’ll get that done along with the temp sensor and possibly the thermostat (borderline scared with having to loosen a belt).

In terms of oil/coolant, everything seems to be holding and there is no obvious signs of leaks *touch wood*.

If anyone sees this in the north Hampshire area and fancies replacing some bits do shout.

 

[Conneh]

I really like the R36 , i saw one this afternoon pass by the MOT garage i was sitting outside.

View attachment 237112

Bit of a Q car!

it’s the B5 W8 Passat i wouldn’t mind rolling around in.

 

[Binkx]

Hi both! Thanks for that, very helpful.

I managed to do a 50 mile round trip this week and nothing is of huge concern yet. I think the thermostat may need replacing, it appeared to be stuck open but then did reach 90 on the way back so will keep an eye on it.

Having never driven one before I’m not sure what to expect. It doesn’t pick up speed like I thought it might - not sure how many of the 217bhp is left! It’s no slouch, but feels a little on the lazy side — no obvious increase in the power curve. There’s not much of a turbo noise that I can hear, this may be normal from I have read? Was very obvious on the Passat when it spooled, it could be I’m enjoying the Bose system too much.

I have had a look at doing the cam follower but I feel that’s abit to technical for me - I have a socket set and that’s it.

The DV seems like a common replacement part and fairly easy to do, I’ll get that done along with the temp sensor and possibly the thermostat (borderline scared with having to loosen a belt).

In terms of oil/coolant, everything seems to be holding and there is no obvious signs of leaks *touch wood*.

If anyone sees this in the north Hampshire area and fancies replacing some bits do shout.

No worries at all. Here to share my experience with these cars and help where I can

Now that you say that about the temprature sensor I changed that out too when I did the coolant flange. It attatches to that. I don't think it was so much the flange that was leaking, but the O-rings that are on it. I chalk it down to the leaking oil from above it from the vacuum pump that made the O-ring swell up. It was noticeably bigger just eyeing it up, I digress....
Ether way with the new thermostat and temp sensor that fixed coolant temp issues. I get what you mean about the dealing with the thermostat. Sometimes you just need that leap of faith and have the laptop with DIY's videos and write ups close to hand haha.

Anyway you can change that without removing the flange. Heres a DIY for it;

DIY: B7 Audi A4 2.0T FWD Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) - AudiForums.com

B7 Models - DIY: B7 Audi A4 2.0T FWD Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) - If you're getting a P2181 code its possible you need to replace your CTS. It seems like these things go bad all the time. Here's a cheap and easy DIY: DIY for B7 Audi A4 2.0T FWD Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) Heres what you...

www.audiforums.com

And this is the part I used, though check yourself i had no issues with it though

ORIGINAL GENUINE 2 PIN COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR for VW SKODA AUDI 06A919501A | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ORIGINAL GENUINE 2 PIN COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR for VW SKODA AUDI 06A919501A at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

I did the DV replacement too. Went for the piston type. hadn't noticed any splits in the diaphram in the original type at 116K.
This is the part i used: OEM 1.8T/2.0T/2.5T Piston Diverter Valve "06H 145 710D"
Found it a tight squeeze and a few scrapes on my hands but it's not that hard going.
I had done this at the same time as the cam follower. I can't remember what special tools are needed ( flared or stubby spanner for the fuel lines?), but remember a fairly fiddly bits but after doing it once would be way easier again.

Aye I know what you mean about the acceleration of the car, I was insured on a relatives mrk 3 TT with the next gen 2.0T (EA888) and that felt noticeably faster. but then it was FWD, low to the ground, lighter and new at the time.
Yeah theres not a huge amount of turbo spool noise, just enough to notice at the 2300-3000 rev range.
I don't know if the car really needs it or its worth while but I'm going to do a carbon clean of the intake valves on mine along with lower milage injectors that have been serviced (think spray pattern returned to as inteneded). My theory is with the car running a bit cooler, due to the thermostat etc, than it should have, may have added to the known issue of direct injection engines with carbon/oil residue build up on intake valves.
My exhuast tips have carbon build up on them so thats part of the theory, incomplete combustion.
I've got everything ready for it but just need the time etc. Ether way I don't think this is something that really needs to be done, last thing I want to do powertrain wise.
I'll report back on here when I get the time to do it.

Speaking of Passat's, I've seen a few turbo R36s on the internet which seems absoultely next level.... that or a 3.0T S4 would leave me very content.

 

[Charlie Farley]

The best DV is in fact the original ,06F 145 710G, the diaphragm valve.

They don't last forever and easy to change from below, a much better boost hold as well, I've tried all three versions and always use the "G" rev but personal choice really.
I did a write up in the sticky section for the coolant flange, the seals fail over time and the housing itself can fall apart, but nothing to do with oil from above, just another one of the B7's failings I'm afraid.

All the B7 TFSI's and FSI's suffer from carbon build-up to a more or lesser degree and its part due to the PCV system and the nature of the direct-injection engine, they are a very efficient engine but do have flaws, sooty tips are normal.

If you use your car for short occasional trips then it will be worse than on a daily driver, these engines need to be worked and worked properly, get them hot, they were not meant to be pootled around in and on short trips.
Get it hot, a spirited drive using the 3k rpm range is good for helping burn off light carbon deposits, it won't do much for carbon that has built up over a long period of time but will help keep too much more adding to the problem
Short trip and underuse won't do your engine oil any favours either, do it sooner if its stands or used on short trips.

Performance-wise, they do go very well, but it's never ideal comparing with smaller hot hatch type cars, if it's running well it will get down the road very rapidly but in a very refined way, not a seat of the pants go-kart experience, just smooth and rapid forward motion.
standard cars and stage 1 mapped cars etc perform really well in the midrange, bottom end is ok but midrange 3k upwards and they really move, to get the best from the engine you need to drive accordingly, the small K03 turbo's don't have much lag to b honest but keeping the revs up a bit before flooring it does make a big difference.

I have a remapped mk1 Quattro tt which is very seat of your pants driving and is fast but feels faster than it really is, but my Quattro B7 is quicker, the more refined acceleration and quality build tends to mask the performance, very easy to lose your licence in a well-sorted B7.

In reality if you thought about all the issues the B7 has you'd never buy one let alone keep one for any period of time.
They can become a bit of a money pit if you let them or get a rough one and low milage,full service history with one previous owner is by no means a guarantee of a good car, been there so I know all about it....
I've had mine for 7 years now, its been full of ups and downs but still here and still performs very well for a 14 year old bus.
Currently on 88k miles , barely run-in .
a pic of my little old bus.
rob

 

[Conneh]

Evening all!

Keep forgetting about the car, and the forum! The joys of having a fairly new, time consuming little nipper and a new house that needs decorating ugh. Primarily working from home and not travelling to much means I’ve only just clocked about 600 miles since I’ve purchased it.

Thoughts? Really like it. Now I’ve got some more confidence in the car and that it isn’t a dog I’ve felt comfortable stretching it’s legs. Agree with how you described it Rob, certainly does get going in a suave way - you look down like oh, best pull back a little. Find it a lot more comfortable than my Passat, I did discover some electric lumber support in the last long run!

Pleased to report its not developed any noises/rattles/knocks. Idles fine and the engine sounds how I imagine it should sound. Keeping looking out for puddles/drips of oil under the car but havnt come across anything yet

Thanks for those codes above, I really must get a wiggle on and do some bits before I’m back on the road at various construction sites.

One thing I must sort out is the brake pads - the wear indicator has now coke on (thank fully the only one). It seems like a bit of a minefield - my usual go to place would be ECP (boo) however I’m sure the parts they are suggesting are too small/incorrect. Reading around the BUL code has the bigger drilled rotors (320mm?). Figure I may aswell do rotors and pads at the same time. Found a fairly comprehensive PDF which makes it look easy. Could someone point me in the right direction so I can get replacement parts ordered up?

 

[Binkx]

Here's a parts diagram for you Conneh.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/catalogs/audi/RDW/A4Q/454/6/615/615045

The brake system is 1LA,LC ie 320mmx30mm vented disc and the same calipers and rotor size as the b7 S4 if I'm correct.

And heres the part numbers, dont pay attention to the prices as you can get them cheapers else where, those are OEM parts prices. Can use ebay with the part number or theres autodoc which is normally good prices but slowish delivery.

Thats the rotors part numbers ( 8E0615301AE punched i think refers to the drilled rotors)

7	8E0615301AD	Brake disc (vented)	320X30MM 5/112	2	PR-1LA	From €106.32
7	8E0615301AE	Brake disc (vented)	320X30MM 5/112 punched **DRILLED?**	2	PR-1LC	From €202.93

Pads

14

8E0698151G

1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake

320X30MM

1

From €103.08

Though ive come cross the number "1629" that seems like a generic number for these pads by most non OEM suppliers.

Coud be handy getting new fitting hardware too but thats up to you

4

4F0615269

retaining spring

2

From €16.55

Heres a few examples of ebay price wise and what your looking for.

Audi A4 2.0T FSi 220bhp 06-07 Front Brake Discs and Mintex Pads Drilled Grooved | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Audi A4 2.0T FSi 220bhp 06-07 Front Brake Discs and Mintex Pads Drilled Grooved at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

A4 2.0T FSi 220bhp 06-07 Front Rear Brake Discs Black DimpledGrooved Mintex Pads | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for A4 2.0T FSi 220bhp 06-07 Front Rear Brake Discs Black DimpledGrooved Mintex Pads at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Charlie Farley]

Brakes from the B7 s4 are different but by changing a few parts they will retro fit on A4 B7 Platfrom, discs are larger aswell at 345mm

 

[Binkx]

Brakes from the B7 s4 are different but by changing a few parts they will retro fit on A4 B7 Platfrom, discs are larger aswell at 345mm

Cheers for the clarification Rob. I’m right in thinking it’s the same calliper though on the 220ps special edition 2.0T as the S4?
It’s the rotors that are 345mm on the S4 instead of the 320mm on the 220ps 2.0T and with a different carrier to accommodate the larger rotors?

 

[Charlie Farley]

Its been a while since i answered that question so you may need to check the parts listing to confirm.
As i recall the carrier are different but fit the calipers used with the 320mm rotors.
so retro fits you'd need new 345 rotors, s4 carriers and dust guards for the bigger rotors.

By the time you've done that the brembo 18Z upgrade is a better option.

 

[Charlie Farley]

I'm pretty sure the calipers are a different part number from the 320 setup as are the carriers but they seem to retro fit each other.