New on the forum and need help tuning 3.0 tdi CAPA

amara5

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first post on this forum and need a bit help , got myself a a5 3.0 tdi CAPA , it is tuned but i think there is more in it , dpf is gutted ( next week doing a proper dowpipe and backbox dellete ) wrote to few tuners and they are promising 300hp / 600nm but im not happy with that . did hit up Bobby on mail but sadly he does not do remote tuning 310/320 hp and 700 + nm (serious numbers for stock turbo) ,
did read all his post even have the 4bar map sensor ready if someone is willing to help me tune too this kind off numbers hit me up :)
 
first post on this forum and need a bit help , got myself a a5 3.0 tdi CAPA , it is tuned but i think there is more in it , dpf is gutted ( next week doing a proper dowpipe and backbox dellete ) wrote to few tuners and they are promising 300hp / 600nm but im not happy with that . did hit up Bobby on mail but sadly he does not do remote tuning 310/320 hp and 700 + nm (serious numbers for stock turbo) ,
did read all his post even have the 4bar map sensor ready if someone is willing to help me tune too this kind off numbers hit me up :)
Watching this too. I want to see what I can get out of my CAPA manual but have had so many other issues so far. At roughly the same stage as you now. Stage 1 map. Dpf and cat gutted. Swirl flaps deleted. Airbox modded. Clutch,brakes,gearbox and diffs fluids changed. All new filters.
I think the next step is to look at cooling and suspension before looking for more from a tune, so might look to delete the egr cooler rather than just blanking, alloy radiator and intercooler would be next. Got a big airtec here am tempted to repurpose seeing the price of them, it's almost brand new but would require bodging hoses as not made for this car. Not mad on that. I have the A6 bitdi maf, housing and bigger turbo hose to go on but need someone to linearise it for me. Don't have the 4bar map yet but was unsure if need bigger hoses for it? Got the linearisation files but can't do it in vcds. Handy enough with the spanners but clueless on the computer side so far.
 
Watching this too. I want to see what I can get out of my CAPA manual but have had so many other issues so far. At roughly the same stage as you now. Stage 1 map. Dpf and cat gutted. Swirl flaps deleted. Airbox modded. Clutch,brakes,gearbox and diffs fluids changed. All new filters.
I think the next step is to look at cooling and suspension before looking for more from a tune, so might look to delete the egr cooler rather than just blanking, alloy radiator and intercooler would be next. Got a big airtec here am tempted to repurpose seeing the price of them, it's almost brand new but would require bodging hoses as not made for this car. Not mad on that. I have the A6 bitdi maf, housing and bigger turbo hose to go on but need someone to linearise it for me. Don't have the 4bar map yet but was unsure if need bigger hoses for it? Got the linearisation files but can't do it in vcds. Handy enough with the spanners but clueless on the computer side so far.
how did you mod your airbox? did see some Bobby's posts about 4bar map sensor mainly for torq not for hp in general (but sadly like i mentioned it he does not remote tune but he menaged to get my goal numbers 320/700+ nm ) , friday downpipe goes in and backbox dellete should sound great but till monday can't get it mapped , my friend will try to make the best off it , he did map my ex car 2.4jtd with 2260vk and we did get pretty good numbers 300ish whp , looking to get the fmic 600x300x76 ic next mod and than going to do a 2260 hybrid if im not happy with this setup xd , will keeping this updated.
 
The basic air box mod for these 3.0TDI's is to remove the flap that opens and closes based on RPM in the bottom of the air box. iirc, over 3,000 RPM it fully opens to allow in more air, and is fully closed below this, likely for noise emissions. Another 3.0TDI owner on here measured (vcds) a minor improvement across the board with it fully open, but nothing more. You do hear a tiny bit more of the air box throbbing/droning that you get, and I personally felt an improvement in pick up from idle when the same had been done to mine. Bobby drilled out a really tidy vent in the top of his air box, but in his own thread he stated it is only useful for his application, i.e. mega power.
 
The basic air box mod for these 3.0TDI's is to remove the flap that opens and closes based on RPM in the bottom of the air box. iirc, over 3,000 RPM it fully opens to allow in more air, and is fully closed below this, likely for noise emissions. Another 3.0TDI owner on here measured (vcds) a minor improvement across the board with it fully open, but nothing more. You do hear a tiny bit more of the air box throbbing/droning that you get, and I personally felt an improvement in pick up from idle when the same had been done to mine. Bobby drilled out a really tidy vent in the top of his air box, but in his own thread he stated it is only useful for his application, i.e. mega power.
Could the flap drop a dtc like p1016 (bypass air cleaner valve) there is no check engine but appears in diagnostics
 
Yes, as there is a plug to the actuator located at the bottom of the air box, and if it's disconnected, it will throw a DTC. Removing the actuator flap but keeping the actuator intact and plugged in means you don't get a DTC. I suppose if it's faulty, then it'll throw a DTC too.
 
how did you mod your airbox? did see some Bobby's posts about 4bar map sensor mainly for torq not for hp in general (but sadly like i mentioned it he does not remote tune but he menaged to get my goal numbers 320/700+ nm ) , friday downpipe goes in and backbox dellete should sound great but till monday can't get it mapped , my friend will try to make the best off it , he did map my ex car 2.4jtd with 2260vk and we did get pretty good numbers 300ish whp , looking to get the fmic 600x300x76 ic next mod and than going to do a 2260 hybrid if im not happy with this setup xd , will keeping this updated.
I'm sure it was Bobby I stole the idea from with the airbox, if you open it up, under the filter there's a vacuum operated valve in the bottom of the airbox, just like inside the anti shudder valve but plastic. If you take the airbox base out, (careful with wires connected to underside and hose ran through the inside) you can take that flap out leaving a second intake pipe opening in the airbox. Left like this it would draw more air from the engine bay but I have a pipe ran down from the new opening to the fog light level. I have the debadged black honeycomb grill on the front but still have the factory blanks around headlights so for now the pipe is only ran to the back of them. Idea was to get the honeycomb fog light inserts and either fix the hose to the back of that or to cut in one of them ram air ports beside the fog light. All debadged and trying to stay as low key as possible on outside so cant decide. Only issue is now can't drive through deep water but would try to avoid that anyway. Routing the pipes higher may be possible but don't see a good gap around the rad. May need to alter this pipe to mount oil coolers too so still up in the air. Could bring air from the driver's wheel arch but would need a decent filter or screen on the pipe. Don't really have the climate for it.

Well if dpf already gutted there should be no problem swapping that out computer wise, just have fun with the heat shield and the lower dpf bolts :) Yeah will sound evil, still have just the backboxes for now, am having two straight through motorbike style cans made. Just hollow 4.5" cans with a straight perf tube center at exhaust bore size. Gives it a raspy sound on a 4cyl. Not seen it done on a 6 yet so that's the plan, have to just work out where I need the mounts on them.

Are you going to use a universal intercooler? Been looking around for one, the airtec I have is only 2" in/out and not going to choke it down just to use that.
 
Could the flap drop a dtc like p1016 (bypass air cleaner valve) there is no check engine but appears in diagnostics
Not had any gremlins like that so far. As far as I understand it the flap essentially thinks it's still there so opens and closes away just the physical air barrier part is gone.
 
I'm sure it was Bobby I stole the idea from with the airbox, if you open it up, under the filter there's a vacuum operated valve in the bottom of the airbox, just like inside the anti shudder valve but plastic. If you take the airbox base out, (careful with wires connected to underside and hose ran through the inside) you can take that flap out leaving a second intake pipe opening in the airbox. Left like this it would draw more air from the engine bay but I have a pipe ran down from the new opening to the fog light level. I have the debadged black honeycomb grill on the front but still have the factory blanks around headlights so for now the pipe is only ran to the back of them. Idea was to get the honeycomb fog light inserts and either fix the hose to the back of that or to cut in one of them ram air ports beside the fog light. All debadged and trying to stay as low key as possible on outside so cant decide. Only issue is now can't drive through deep water but would try to avoid that anyway. Routing the pipes higher may be possible but don't see a good gap around the rad. May need to alter this pipe to mount oil coolers too so still up in the air. Could bring air from the driver's wheel arch but would need a decent filter or screen on the pipe. Don't really have the climate for it.

Well if dpf already gutted there should be no problem swapping that out computer wise, just have fun with the heat shield and the lower dpf bolts :) Yeah will sound evil, still have just the backboxes for now, am having two straight through motorbike style cans made. Just hollow 4.5" cans with a straight perf tube center at exhaust bore size. Gives it a raspy sound on a 4cyl. Not seen it done on a 6 yet so that's the plan, have to just work out where I need the mounts on them.

Are you going to use a universal intercooler? Been looking around for one, the airtec I have is only 2" in/out and not going to choke it down just to use that.
Gonna try it friday when i do the downpipe , quick update my tuner sad he is willing to try to map it with the 4bar map sensor but he does think its kinda uselles on stock 2260vk. Will do the remap on sunday :)

And yes I will go for a universal intercooler fmic.eu probably 600x300x76 had it on my ex car and it performed pretty good for ~150e
 
Yeah maybe so but still worth having a go, as far as I know all the sensor swaps are doable once you do the intercooler anyway but really come into play once your pushing bigger boost. Just decide how big is too big and what drawbacks can you live with. Interested in what way you go turbo wise anyway. Not looked too much into it yet, still learning as I go along and always at least 20 options for everything. Edit do you need anything other than the sensor to do the map? Hoses/housing etc
 
Yeah maybe so but still worth having a go, as far as I know all the sensor swaps are doable once you do the intercooler anyway but really come into play once your pushing bigger boost. Just decide how big is too big and what drawbacks can you live with. Interested in what way you go turbo wise anyway. Not looked too much into it yet, still learning as I go along and always at least 20 options for everything. Edit do you need anything other than the sensor to do the map? Hoses/housing
couple of nights been trough the forums and did find few answers mainly remaps range from 300 bhp and 600nm on stock CAPA (turbo . intercooler) but just like i mentioned there is couple of videos on youtube broo perfomance,bobby etc. pushing limits 310-330bhp and 700+ nm , gutted dpf or dellete pipe and in bobbys case there is the 0 281 006 059 map sensor (4bar) , have it laying around for now , as bobby mentioned its for more torq dont know , dont ask i can't explain lol

there is a post somewhere on this forum with dpf still on pushing 320hp and 720nm just the map exchange crazy numbers for stock 2260vk and that would be my goal for now

here in my country there is a place just for rebuiling stock turbos into hybrids with ball berings but its not on the list for now maybe next summer

edit : map sensor is kinda plug and play same conector but your tuner needs to adapt it in your file
 
Adding a map sensor alone doesn't give you torque. If your tuner doesn't know what he is doing he could overspin the turbo very quickly therefore only do this if he is comfortable with it.

Secondly people can claim alot however if the air is not available then there no way you can make 700nm plus with a stock map sensor cleanly.
There are clowns out there that claim to be making 315hp / 680nm but reality is they are using the same 280hp / 580nm files before I started development on mine (<2015). They just feel the pressure to keep up with my figures and started making up false figures - 280hp > 290hp > 300> 310 > 315 and now slowly I start seeing 320hp from the same nonsense 280hp files with the added spice of all protection maps turned off.

This industry is cluttered with file flashers that have never seen the inside of a engine to know how things work.
 
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Adding a map sensor alone doesn't give you torque. If your tuner doesn't know what he is doing he could overspin the turbo very quickly therefore only do this if he is comfortable with it.

Secondly people can claim alot however if the air is not available then there no way you can make 700nm plus with a stock map sensor cleanly.
There are clowns out there that claim to be making 315hp / 680nm but reality is they are using the same 280hp / 580nm files before I started development on mine (<2015). They just feel the pressure to keep up with my figures and started making up false figures - 280hp > 290hp > 300> 310 > 315 and now slowly I start seeing 320hp from the same nonsense 280hp files with the added spice of all protection maps turned off.

This industry is cluttered with file flashers that have never seen the inside of a engine to know how things work.
Hi Bobby, I really want to bombard you with questions but I know you get that all the time. Just this one, in your eyes, what is the most cost effective reliable way to bigger numbers? Having yourself done a lot of the trial and error
 
couple of nights been trough the forums and did find few answers mainly remaps range from 300 bhp and 600nm on stock CAPA (turbo . intercooler) but just like i mentioned there is couple of videos on youtube broo perfomance,bobby etc. pushing limits 310-330bhp and 700+ nm , gutted dpf or dellete pipe and in bobbys case there is the 0 281 006 059 map sensor (4bar) , have it laying around for now , as bobby mentioned its for more torq dont know , dont ask i can't explain lol

there is a post somewhere on this forum with dpf still on pushing 320hp and 720nm just the map exchange crazy numbers for stock 2260vk and that would be my goal for now

here in my country there is a place just for rebuiling stock turbos into hybrids with ball berings but its not on the list for now maybe next summer

edit : map sensor is kinda plug and play same conector but your tuner needs to adapt it in your file
Cheers, I'll look into getting one ready. Can't afford all my ideas yet but the plan is to replace the radiator with an alloy one, intercooler at the same time. Then install the new sensors bigger maf housing and hose, pipe in a catch can onto the pcv. Then call tuner to linearise the MAF and now the map. And just drive it around, no crazy map, see how it all behaves for a while then look into maybe fuelling and forced air. Have had the car since February and don't think have drove it a day without something stupid broken or breaking on me but I still have big plans.
 
Adding a map sensor alone doesn't give you torque. If your tuner doesn't know what he is doing he could overspin the turbo very quickly therefore only do this if he is comfortable with it.

Secondly people can claim alot however if the air is not available then there no way you can make 700nm plus with a stock map sensor cleanly.
There are clowns out there that claim to be making 315hp / 680nm but reality is they are using the same 280hp / 580nm files before I started development on mine (<2015). They just feel the pressure to keep up with my figures and started making up false figures - 280hp > 290hp > 300> 310 > 315 and now slowly I start seeing 320hp from the same nonsense 280hp files with the added spice of all protection maps turned off.

This industry is cluttered with file flashers that have never seen the inside of a engine to know how things work.
Could I send you the file when its done u dont need to do anything just tell your honest opinion ?
 
Hi Bobby, I really want to bombard you with questions but I know you get that all the time. Just this one, in your eyes, what is the most cost effective reliable way to bigger numbers? Having yourself done a lot of the trial and error

Hi that question doesn't make any sense without a target number - what do you class as "bigger numbers"
I noticed you are in the UK so its pretty easy to come and see me for tuning etc

Could I send you the file when its done u dont need to do anything just tell your honest opinion ?

Im not interested in seeing other peoples files - Im sure the tuner wouldn't be happy just as I would be.
 
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Hi that question doesn't make any sense without a target number - what do you class as "bigger numbers"
I noticed you are in the UK so its pretty easy to come and see me for tuning etc



Im not interested in seeing other peoples files - Im sure the tuner wouldn't be happy just as I would be.
Well we're talking here about being in around 300-320 with stock turbo. So bigger numbers than that.

I was presuming you'd have the rough parts requirements and costs for the basic hp milestones of tuning. What can the manual box take? From the feel of it, it seems to have been designed in a dark room. Turbo remachined keeping the smaller exhaust size or full replacement. Will that require fuel pump/injectors?
With the jump from 4-500 being more complex I mean the requirements for each stage. If say I can get to 400 with a turbo and a map, which turbo etc so I can gauge the cost and timeframe. I would definitely bring it to you for tuning as I wouldn't try to understand that myself but if I can do any of the mechanical work first I'd like to.
I can't gauge who or when to book in with anyone until I have an idea what the damage will be and what the basic options are and what needs to be done first.
 
Well we're talking here about being in around 300-320 with stock turbo. So bigger numbers than that.

I was presuming you'd have the rough parts requirements and costs for the basic hp milestones of tuning. What can the manual box take? From the feel of it, it seems to have been designed in a dark room. Turbo remachined keeping the smaller exhaust size or full replacement. Will that require fuel pump/injectors?
With the jump from 4-500 being more complex I mean the requirements for each stage. If say I can get to 400 with a turbo and a map, which turbo etc so I can gauge the cost and timeframe. I would definitely bring it to you for tuning as I wouldn't try to understand that myself but if I can do any of the mechanical work first I'd like to.
I can't gauge who or when to book in with anyone until I have an idea what the damage will be and what the basic options are and what needs to be done first.

Stock turbo maxes out by 320 to 330hp at a push
CAPA fuel pump & injectors can do 380hp after that you need a better pump which i keep in stock
CCWA has a useless pump but better injectors - Injectors can do 400hp plus but again you need the better pump
Hybrid turbo - I have my own wheels which I use and they flow 1400kg/h - more air cleaner the burn. Sure there are 100 suppliers of hybrids but there are levels to this and my route is tried and tested for EMP, Spool and power.
Intercooler I only use Wagner as they are the best - I can offer you some discount etc
Cost varies as many people have various upgrades over the years so email me a full spec and your budget
BobbySinghRacing@outlook.com

For rest there are plenty of examples on my channel - https://www.youtube.com/c/BobbySinghRacing
 
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Stock turbo maxes out by 320 to 330hp at a push
CAPA fuel pump & injectors can do 380hp after that you need a better pump which i keep in stock
CCWA has a useless pump but better injectors - Injectors can do 400hp plus but again you need the better pump
Hybrid turbo - I have my own wheels which I use and they flow 1400kg/h - more air cleaner the burn. Sure there are 100 suppliers of hybrids but there are levels to this and my route is tried and tested for EMP, Spool and power.
Intercooler I only use Wagner as they are the best - I can offer you some discount etc
Cost varies as many people have various upgrades over the years so email me a full spec and your budget
BobbySinghRacing@outlook.com

For rest there are plenty of examples on my channel - https://www.youtube.com/c/BobbySinghRacing
So looking at that I'd be along the lines of
Fuel pump,
Injectors,
Wagner IC,
Hybrid,
Map sensor?
I can tell that's already probably beyond any sensible budget and this won't be something that happens overnight but it's definitely something I want to do and will work towards. Ideally doing it in stages. I'll e-mail in the morning for more detail. I've already sunk in more than it's worth trying to do the last decades maintainance jobs at once, no sense in stopping now
 
Update , loged 4th gear pull , dpf off , egr off (downpipe fitted ) its a bit better but this week need too do a new remap as seen in logs atm running max 1.6b or 23 something psi anyone can check if it looks okey? For now
 

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Update , loged 4th gear pull , dpf off , egr off (downpipe fitted ) its a bit better but this week need too do a new remap as seen in logs atm running max 1.6b or 23 something psi anyone can check if it looks okey? For now
@desertstorm could you look into my log it looks pretty stock too me , new map will be done next monday.
 
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