okay so another downpipe thread.. tut

Stuart B

Stuart B

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There are loads of threads about downpipes but I could not find my answer.

I think I have a stage 1 mapped S3 AMK (at approx 240bhp) and am not looking to do any further power mods - I am pretty sure the flexi section of my downpipe is leaking, Most threads are about trying to fit a 3inch downpipe and the fitment difficulties and potential benefits.

What about simply fitting a standard part? they are about £100 from eurocarparts if you pick a discount weekend. or is the reason mine is leaking because it was mapped in the first place?


my real questions are?

- will fitting a standard downpipe be a lot less bother than an uprated downpipe - or will it still take me 7-8 hours of fiddling and struggling with space, rusted/seized nuts etc?

- are those flexi pipe repair kits absolute garbage or could it be a stop gap up to the MOT (just to see if the car has lots wrong)

Thanks for you help
 
Its the same effort for no gain... std downpipe is restrictive... arguably more so than the rest of the exhaust... if going to the effort of fitting something fit a 3"... once the old std one id out a 3" is actually easier to refit

<tuffty/>
 
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ah okay thanks tuffty - I imagined it was much more difficult after reading the others posts with pipe modifications, new engine mounts etc - I will see what I need to get. I somehow envisaged it would be much easier with the smaller diameter.
 
pipe mods and engine mounts are a subjective thing... depends on fit of the DP and wear and tear on the engine mounts... 3" is a bit tighter for sure but worn engine mounts are worn engine mounts and as std they wobble around like a dad dancing at a wedding disco

<tuffty/>
 
"wobble around like a dad dancing at a wedding disco"

....best description ever....
 
1. does the cupra / TT downpipe fit? there are quite few of those on sale.
2. a glancing look shows the single downpipe splits to two then joins to the cats (I assume) then back together and to the mid and back box

am I trying too hard if I want to keep the two cats and should forget about those and replace the downpipe and cat - and try and salvage the mid / back boxes?

from experience (although a lot cheaper) when you replace a section of exhaust everything else goes from either too much back pressure if changing back box or too much flow if changing a front section. Example - I just bought full exhaust for Punto 1.2 from cat back £41 - but I can put money on the manifold / cat blowing after I fit it.

Thanks
 
okay so that is clear enough - but the next question is can I replace the downpipe alone which splits into two pipes and join to the existing 2 pipes, or should I be considering replacing that catalyst section too?

I am not looking for any extra power as with that comes the risk of the engine connecting rods breaking, as it is already 240(ish)

Not even 100% sure it is blowing - it is noisy but I cannot see or smell anything, or get my hands down the back of the charge pipe to feel around. funnily enough it doesn't sound like it is blowing when you are driving.

Need to try and get it onto some ramps rather than axle stands so I can get properly underneath the car.
 
Have you tried the Ed China trick of a piece of tissue on a stick waving it around the downpipe/exhaust to check for drafts? :haha:
 
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okay cool thanks - it is definitely getting much worse - since the other car bits are improving - I have found I have put a bit more power / higher revs through - which is clearly making the flexi pipe suffer.

I have the punto exhaust to do at the weekend so will get the audi on the ramps at the same time to have a poke around.
 
Thanks Karl, I have looked at that one quite a lot - my only concern was the de-cat - I think I will worry about that in August :)

better get the other one off first I suppose :) busy weekend - I have been pondering removing the head, that way I can change the belt and water pump and clean the turbo hot side with some mr muscle too, but have seen some strange home made tools to get to the bolt near the firewall so will see what will be - might be easier than the 5-6 hours (I doubt it)

maybe whilst it is on the ramps oil service too and try and get the undertray side and tray connected and find the right spanner for the gear oil filler.
 
yeah I notice you can get them slightly cheaper from US but need to pay import tax. I think I will take a punt at the £160 version I cant see a difference and I suppose if necessary it may be possible to hack in a CAT if the MOT becomes an issue.
 
seller accepted a £155 offer just need to get the old one off now, bought some new ramps and ordered some low rise extenders to see if I can get it up in the air and comfortable access.
 
I payed £100 pound used but still in the box never fitted with 100cell cat
 
Thanks, I am mainly fearful of the removal but instead of thinking oh its just blowing a bit - I have to commit. I will grind it off as high as possible.
 
Cut it at the flexi... its the softest/easiest part to do it...

If you feel inclined to split it at the CAT first just be aware that on every one I have ever done the 6 nuts fixing the CAT to the DP are that rotten I had to air chisel them off... splitting at the flexi and separating the centre section of the exhaust should help get it out in one bit I believe

<tuffty/>
 
I think it should be possible to cut through the downpipe and get the single pipe out the middle box with some stilsons to remove the dual cats. I was thinking about using bolt extractors to break the bolts on the cats - but will try this first.
 
audi upgrades
so I don't need to cut the flexi pipe it simply is no longer connected to the first curve of the downpipe from the turbo.

blimey it looks so tight in there, I will try and remove in one piece from the mid section but I don't see it happening personally as the downpipe angle and movement will make it very difficult to manipulate the pipe out. I can only see the 2 bottom nuts from under the car, they look corroded with the stud. will the studs undo from the turbo? also can I reach the top nut from over the top of the turbo after removing the TIP.

I have had a nightmare today I changed the brake pads on my punto last night after the exhaust last weekend and went to drive to the shops today and clutch has gone, so I needed to simply buy another car in 2 hours, what a shock to the system.
Local Car Dealers had only 2 cars ready to go today, my biggest worry was I already bought tickets for Captain America Civil War for tomorrow :D
 
I'm gutted for you mate,puts my air con problems into perspective.

You could always ask Captain America for some help,he'd be able to sort it I'm sure.
 
did mine dropped the subframe cut the flexi but of wriggling and out it popped job done in about 3-4 houres
 
Okay so had to cut it at the cats and the flexi had already gone so got that off (and bought myself a new grinder at the same time) - the sensor is seized in the middle section, I have bent the exhaust in the effort to try and undo it.

There is no way I can undo the nuts on the turbo, I can only really get to one, but feeling and picking around the stud it is crumbling away.

I am thinking this.

so
1. I had a coolant loss issue in January, along with an occasional misfire in the morning and my expectation is a head gasket - which I put that crap head gasket repair stuff in which knackered the heating - but kept the coolant in
2. I have no real evidence of the last timing belt and water pump change.

Is the right thing to do here
1. Remove the head with manifold, turbo and top part of the exhaust connected <-- is this possible?
2. Service the turbo and get those studs out cleanly - is it worth changing the manifold at the same time?
3. Put it all back together with the exhaust joined up
4. Change the belt and water pump

This just seems like the right thing to do.
 
Can someone please advise on DayCo Timing Belt Kit from EURO CAR PARTS?

they have a 25% discount code until tonight
So I was going to get the full head gasket kit and timing belt with water pump kit?

I am not looking to change stuff for extra power, I am quite happy with the 240BHP this is at currently?

Also can anyone advise on the rear lamda sensor, I am considering grinding and drilling around the existing one, but if I fail at this what are the choices they are priced between £20 and £110 ?

This is my shopping basket
Shoppingbasket
 
When I did my downpipe I removed two of the nuts from the top and obviously the other one from the bottom. Try a 17mm half moon spanner for one of the top ones and the other can be undone with a 3/8 ratchet. Bottom is easy, a load of extensions on the ratchet. Also I soaked the turbo nuts in wd40 for 24 hrs prior to removal and they all came off very easy!

Personally I would go to the dealer for important things like timing belt kits. And regarding the sensor I would only buy Bosch.
 
there is only one nut at the top under the manifold I can just see it from under the car where the exhaust used to go, my concern is the easiest stud to reach is corroded I have tried with a short 3/8 ratchet and 17mm sparkplug socket which just doesn't budge, I reckon I will snap the stud first.

I like the idea of half moon spanners, and will get a little set I think.

Do you know if I remove the head it can be manipulated out with the top part of downpipe on?
 
Stuart B said:
there is only one nut at the top under the manifold I can just see it from under the car where the exhaust used to go, my concern is the easiest stud to reach is corroded I have tried with a short 3/8 ratchet and 17mm sparkplug socket which just doesn't budge, I reckon I will snap the stud first.

I like the idea of half moon spanners, and will get a little set I think.

Do you know if I remove the head it can be manipulated out with the top part of downpipe on?
Click to expand...

As yours has split at the flexi then its plausible but never had to do it like this... if you are removing the head then the better way would be to undo the three turbo/mani bolts and lift the head off leaving the turbo/DP in place... this will give you all the access in the world once out the way

Don't forget to get some new head bolts...

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks yep I added new stretch bolts to the shopping cart.

So the suggestion is leave the turbo and top part of downpipe on by undoing the turbo the manifold bolts, I assume the turbo is also bolted to the block via a support bracket..

at least if necessary I can cut more of the downpipe off from the top to try and get the nuts off.

are the studs normal engine studs or part of the turbo? eg can I remove them and replace rather than drill and tapping?

I think some of the deals for a full exhaust fitted for £500 are well worth the money if they are normally like mine.

I remember someone asking about cutting the timing belt to remove the head leaving all the mounts in place - was that correct?

Thanks for your help, I have resigned myself to doing this slowly, now I have a replacement car I don't mind.
 
okay so quite a lot bought - ebay actually was cheaper in the end, and also in stock.

Genuine Timing Belt Kit + water pump + reverse torque sockets E10-E22 + turbo / mani gasket + head gasket kit + head bolts I also got some half moon / c spanners.
 
harvey01 said:
I payed £100 pound used but still in the box never fitted with 100cell cat
Click to expand...
do you still have this? and is it for sale (if so I will PM) - the eBay seller had to refund my cash after the shipping company lost my pipe.
 
mine was fitted this weekend 3-4 hours start to finsh
 
okay cool - I think it will take me 3-4 hours to get the rear lamda sensor out the mid section pipe :)
 
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Okay so this is getting silly - but I am looking at this now.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-S3-8...cpsi-3-5-inlet-3-all-the-way-made-in-Germany-

this actually looks easier to fit as the section which needs bolting onto the turbo is short and straight, then the other clamps look simple + it does come with a Cat - which is my biggest concern when it comes to an MOT. I have also finally found one which is under 400 (330+postage) with a cat included.

I need to get the head off first and look at the turbo and manifold to see whether this is coming off or if the turbo bolts are ruined and need drilling and tapping, I have all the other head and timing belt bits delivered (including the torx and female torx) so can do this over the coming weeks. maybe starting on sunday with those 3 E16 manifold to turbo bolts, but will wait to see if the head or the manifold is cracked before forking out for anything extra for exhaust.
 
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