The TT ball joint setup looks to have around an inch thick spacer between the ball joint and wishbone, whilst not significant would this not alter the angle the ball joint sits at ??? possibly giving greater clearance ?
Prawn and BigAls A3 Track Car
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You're right Mark. That's the spacer I mentioned. I don't imagine it's making a huge difference, but it will change the angle slightly for the better.
Rich is sensing me over the cad file for the spacers and I'm having some cut ASAP
Rich is sensing me over the cad file for the spacers and I'm having some cut ASAP
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Happy New Year guys!
Not a huge deal happened here over the last few days.
I've ground down the other ball joint to accept the disc and confirmed it all clears OK.
I hate how crusty it all looks. it's all structurally sound, and has all been thoroughly cleaned in the past, but without being painted or powdercoated it all just goes so ****** in no time at all!
I got one set of brake pads in too, and realised that due to how close everything runs, the pad backings needed persuading ever so slightly so they don't touch the bell when the pads wear.
The BTCC cars NEVER wear the pads down low, so it's clearly a non issue to them, as the friction material clears just fine, but if I ever let the pad wear below 8mm the backing would have just kissed the bell, which wouldn't be fun.
A few seconds with the grinder sorted that, but I forgot to take any pics.
I need to throw the wastegate back in and confirm what fittings I'll need for the water cooling. I suspect it'll be one of these, and one straight connector:
Rich has sent me a drawing for the Ball joint spacer he runs, which I'll have made and that'll improve things on the clearance too.
I also got the downpipe wrappped too. Just waiting on a few stainless ties to arrive so I can fix it all into place
Otherwise not a lot to report!
Mum and Dad are up again in 4 weeks time, so the current target is to have the car on the road and MOT'd by the time they come up so Dad and I can have our belated Christmas Day drive!
Not a huge deal happened here over the last few days.
I've ground down the other ball joint to accept the disc and confirmed it all clears OK.
I hate how crusty it all looks. it's all structurally sound, and has all been thoroughly cleaned in the past, but without being painted or powdercoated it all just goes so ****** in no time at all!
I got one set of brake pads in too, and realised that due to how close everything runs, the pad backings needed persuading ever so slightly so they don't touch the bell when the pads wear.
The BTCC cars NEVER wear the pads down low, so it's clearly a non issue to them, as the friction material clears just fine, but if I ever let the pad wear below 8mm the backing would have just kissed the bell, which wouldn't be fun.
A few seconds with the grinder sorted that, but I forgot to take any pics.
I need to throw the wastegate back in and confirm what fittings I'll need for the water cooling. I suspect it'll be one of these, and one straight connector:
Rich has sent me a drawing for the Ball joint spacer he runs, which I'll have made and that'll improve things on the clearance too.
I also got the downpipe wrappped too. Just waiting on a few stainless ties to arrive so I can fix it all into place
Otherwise not a lot to report!
Mum and Dad are up again in 4 weeks time, so the current target is to have the car on the road and MOT'd by the time they come up so Dad and I can have our belated Christmas Day drive!
Are you fitting the kettle in the cockpit for cold day cuppers.??? And the gin and tonic.??? where is that going, in the glove box.???
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I was under the impression that all that faffing about with new bulkhead water lines were to give a fresh hot supply. Pop your teabag of choice in the header tank before setting off and it's delivered straight to the cockpit once the engine's up to temperature. Might taste a little G12y mind...
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Bill has a wet blast unit... here is the hotside of a turbo for my A2...
He offers it as a service you know
<tuffty/>
He offers it as a service you know
<tuffty/>
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Thanks PT, I'm well aware, and already wondering what I can bring up to be blasted on my next trip!
I have to contain my excitement though, or Id be pulling the whole car apart and having everything blasted!
Stainless steel ties arrived today, so. I got the downpipe wrap finished:
I have to contain my excitement though, or Id be pulling the whole car apart and having everything blasted!
Stainless steel ties arrived today, so. I got the downpipe wrap finished:
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People of ASN:
Thoughts on something like this?
Imagine with properly wide bodywork, and tyres that actually fit rather than the stretched crap you're used to seeing.
Potentially decent? or been overdone by the scene brigade and not worth a thought?
Consideration for a road wheel with 265 tyre, rather than another expensive set of TD Pro Race 1.3s
Thoughts on something like this?
Imagine with properly wide bodywork, and tyres that actually fit rather than the stretched crap you're used to seeing.
Potentially decent? or been overdone by the scene brigade and not worth a thought?
Consideration for a road wheel with 265 tyre, rather than another expensive set of TD Pro Race 1.3s
I like them jap racing do practically the same wheel but you can get custon centre bore and wheel offset in stead of the multifit
I would rather spend another £200 and get the T D,s. With something in the region of 400 WHP I would like to use a well proven piece of kit.
I still have pictures in my mind of Welly,s M3 wrapped around a lampost ater the spokes left the rim.
I still have pictures in my mind of Welly,s M3 wrapped around a lampost ater the spokes left the rim.
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I would rather spend another £200 and get the T D,s. With something in the region of 400 WHP I would like to use a well proven piece of kit.
I still have pictures in my mind of Welly,s M3 wrapped around a lampost ater the spokes left the rim.
Sounds like a man speaking from experience @Prawn
Plus my reading of that statement is that he is offering to drop the £200 in the pot for you...is that right @bigal 1?
What a good daddy
Aren't those XXR wheels pretty much bbs ch reps? Bbs will probably weigh less as well (and cost a lot more)
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Had a bit of a chat with Dad last night. We decided against any cheapy wheels due to the power and grip we’re going to have. Unless any other decent looking alternatives pop up at an attractive price we’ll probably stick with 2 sets of Pro Race 1.3. Due to the unknowns of the new setup it’ll be a single set first, to test if they’re actually any good! Then ordering a second set when we’re happy with it.
@antwan64og The Pro Race 1.3’s are 18x10, and we’re likely to end up around ET17 or 18. I need to confirm exact offset this week.
Alternatives would have to be at least 9.5J, and around ET22-3ish as you say, did you have something in mind?
@antwan64og The Pro Race 1.3’s are 18x10, and we’re likely to end up around ET17 or 18. I need to confirm exact offset this week.
Alternatives would have to be at least 9.5J, and around ET22-3ish as you say, did you have something in mind?
I was just looking at what people had run with stock mk4 golf body work and air ride.
Rota have some offerings in 9.5j but they are still nearly £800 being practical another set of 1.3 pro race would be ideal!
Being honest at these power/speed levels wheels can be consumable items and spares might be useful.....
Wheels are designed to break taking some of an impact away from the suspension/chassis/driver.
I cut 2 minilight wheels in half when I spun and hit a curb years ago.
Rota have some offerings in 9.5j but they are still nearly £800 being practical another set of 1.3 pro race would be ideal!
Being honest at these power/speed levels wheels can be consumable items and spares might be useful.....
Wheels are designed to break taking some of an impact away from the suspension/chassis/driver.
I cut 2 minilight wheels in half when I spun and hit a curb years ago.
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Nick since you push the chassis more than most do you prefer the stock set up with the rear track 10mm narrower or the rear wheels spaced out 10mm to make it squarer?
Is there much difference turning in in your opinion?
Is there much difference turning in in your opinion?
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To be honest Ant, whilst it's all relative n, terms of front / rear track. I don't really notice much difference when adding / removing rear spacers. Adding / removing width on the front makes a noticeable difference though.
Wider up front does give it a seemingly sharper harder turn in, but does make it more susceptible to torque steer and pushing wide on exit, as with a spacer you've made the scrub radius more positive, but not actually added any additional rubber.
From everyone I've spoken to the beiief is that the losses in scrub radius become worth it when you're adding additional rubber to gain traction over all.
My front track is already quite a bit wider than the rear. More like 40mm more due to the mk2 ball joints and camber we run.
Wider up front does give it a seemingly sharper harder turn in, but does make it more susceptible to torque steer and pushing wide on exit, as with a spacer you've made the scrub radius more positive, but not actually added any additional rubber.
From everyone I've spoken to the beiief is that the losses in scrub radius become worth it when you're adding additional rubber to gain traction over all.
My front track is already quite a bit wider than the rear. More like 40mm more due to the mk2 ball joints and camber we run.
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Finally found time to get the other side front brake on yesterday:
And whilst they DO fit, and will be OK, the brakes are freakishly close to the inner barrel on a stock LCR rim. So much so that I've had to remove all the wheel weights to clear!
It just so happened, whilst I was minding my own business, I got a message out of the blue from @Golfyste showing me a nice set of OZs on ebay.
I assumed he was going to ask me to collect them for him as they were really local to me, but apparently he saw them and thought they may be of use to me!
With only a few mins remaining on the auction it didn't leave much time to think. A quick call to Dad offering to go halves on them, and a bid was placed with 8 seconds to go!
Ohps!
These are only 18x8's for now, but the price was right, and I've been looking out for some more normal width 18's for a while to tide me over.
The long term plan is 2 sets of 18x10's. a set for slicks and a set for 265/35/18 semi slicks for regular road use.
A 3rd set of 18x8's was always planned, with the intention to use a narrower race wet for wet days etc, so that'll be these.
It also leaves the option short term of putting some 245 / 650 slicks on and doing a trackday now without needing to do loads of bodywork to get the big wheels in.
Very handy indeed, thanks Ste!
And whilst they DO fit, and will be OK, the brakes are freakishly close to the inner barrel on a stock LCR rim. So much so that I've had to remove all the wheel weights to clear!
It just so happened, whilst I was minding my own business, I got a message out of the blue from @Golfyste showing me a nice set of OZs on ebay.
I assumed he was going to ask me to collect them for him as they were really local to me, but apparently he saw them and thought they may be of use to me!
With only a few mins remaining on the auction it didn't leave much time to think. A quick call to Dad offering to go halves on them, and a bid was placed with 8 seconds to go!
Ohps!
These are only 18x8's for now, but the price was right, and I've been looking out for some more normal width 18's for a while to tide me over.
The long term plan is 2 sets of 18x10's. a set for slicks and a set for 265/35/18 semi slicks for regular road use.
A 3rd set of 18x8's was always planned, with the intention to use a narrower race wet for wet days etc, so that'll be these.
It also leaves the option short term of putting some 245 / 650 slicks on and doing a trackday now without needing to do loads of bodywork to get the big wheels in.
Very handy indeed, thanks Ste!
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Going to swap the tyres from the LCRs onto the OZs? I seem to recall you mentioning they had decent life left (Kumhos?) so assuming the OZs give better clearance it'd make sense for the short-medium term to get you rolling nicely. Alternatively the barrel on the LCRs is fairly tapered from memory, so a spacer might help things sit a little nicer, provided it doesn't mess up the geometry too much.
I think my first ever post in this thread was asking when you'd buy some more wheels, cause it had been a while since you collected many...
Seems you are back on track now ;-)
Seems you are back on track now ;-)
I can see me having to clear another barn to house the multiwheel/ tyre combination that appears to be happening all over again.
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Argh!!!!!!!
When I sent everything to Carl I gave him everything alert from one tial clamp. Which I put in a safe place.
Do you think I can find that safe place now?
Argh.
Tial Mvr 44mm Inlet clamp. The ****** things are £50 to replace!
Dammit.
When I sent everything to Carl I gave him everything alert from one tial clamp. Which I put in a safe place.
Do you think I can find that safe place now?
Argh.
Tial Mvr 44mm Inlet clamp. The ****** things are £50 to replace!
Dammit.
That is so true. BUT in this case 50 quid saved. Its found, so the new build is only £99,950. so we have saved £50 on the projected £100,000. Phew, thats a stroke of luck. We will all sleep well tonight.
?????????
?????????
That is so true. BUT in this case 50 quid saved. Its found, so the new build is only £99,950. so we have saved £50 on the projected £100,000. Phew, thats a stroke of luck. We will all sleep well tonight.
?????????
Thank god for that, I was about to go through my lockers and workshop looking for it just in case it was sent down!
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Collected the OZs on Tuesday. I havn't got any more pics, but they are absolutely immaculate! One or two tiny marks, but really very very good condition on the whole. Inside and out. Very pleased with them. Thanks @Golfyste They also clear the brakes with no spacers at all, with a whopping 2mm of clearance 
In other massively exciting news, as Dad has already shared:
I found the safe place!
I did some experimenting with wheel fitment too to decide final offset.
ET20 definitely rubs.
5x 2.5mm washers added, giving effectively ET17.5:
It clears, but it's TIGHT!
Not keen to cut things too fine and risk any contact, I've decided that it'll be ET15 all round now. I don't want to run spacers, and don't really want to be at different offsets front to rear.
They also clear the brakes with no spacers at all, with a whopping 2mm of clearance In other massively exciting news, as Dad has already shared:
I found the safe place!
I did some experimenting with wheel fitment too to decide final offset.
ET20 definitely rubs.
5x 2.5mm washers added, giving effectively ET17.5:
It clears, but it's TIGHT!
Not keen to cut things too fine and risk any contact, I've decided that it'll be ET15 all round now. I don't want to run spacers, and don't really want to be at different offsets front to rear.
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Only one way to find out that one SK! At et15 there should be almost 5mm clearance at the tightest point.
I'm sure Bill said he's run so close in the past he couldn't get a trailer strap in there
I'm sure Bill said he's run so close in the past he couldn't get a trailer strap in there
Just keep the pressures sensible and hopefully it will be alright. If you go too low then the tyre is liable to move more. I have a similar issue on the TT with the GAZ shocks they don't have the dent the OE items have and they are thicker. I have yet to get my track tyres to see what they look like , hoping 255/35/18 NS2R's are going to fit in. I may end up flaring the wheel arches a little with a slightly larger spacer to fit them in.
How are you getting to Et15 without spacers then?
I know you said you can get the wheels made in any ET if you straight to the source
Not been on here for a while, but mines getting worked on today so I've come for some inspiration! Good work Nick, its coming together mate !
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