[Q] 2006~2008 8P Driver's door loom wires identification

[AbsoluteA3]

For those of you who repaired your driver's door wire loom (instead of replacing the entire loom), I have a question: Did any of you identify which wire fault causes the key fob unlock to not function? If so, please post.

My wire loom had a problem where unlock & window control was completely inoperative for the driver's door. Window switches worked for the other doors, though. There was just one wire that was damaged (I believe it was red/green) and I repaired it using a heat gun soldering connector. Window control on driver's was restored. But, the fob unlock is still not functioning. There is a brown wire that I repaired previously, using a crimp connector. Because it is opaque, I can't tell if the wire separated inside it. I don't want to go through the time consuming exercise of removing it if it's OK. So if someone can confirm or eliminate the brown wire from the unlock function, that would help me a great deal.

Thanks for your help!

 

[ch1z64]

Might sound stupid but have you changed the battery in your fob ,

 

[samuelh_888]

I had a break in the green/red. After repairing this my fob would work, along with windows and lock/unlock from within the car

 

[AbsoluteA3]

Might sound stupid but have you changed the battery in your fob ,

No, I haven't, but it's working fine in all other respects -- trunk open, panic, door lock.

 

[SootySport]

The brown wire is a 12v feed into the door. Sometimes the copper strands inside the insulation can break but all appears well with the insulation, so I wouldn’t rule it out.

 

[AbsoluteA3]

The brown wire is a 12v feed into the door. Sometimes the copper strands inside the insulation can break but all appears well with the insulation, so I wouldn’t rule it out.

So with the brown wire being a 12v power feed, if it's broken then the door wouldn't have any electrics at all, correct? Because the door switches operate, lock mechanism inside works, switches are backlit.

I hadn't considered that some wires may be suffering broken filaments inside while the insulation is intact. That's strange... because my understanding has been that the issue is caused by the insulation stiffening & then cracking, causing the filaments to endure excessive stress that breaks them.

 

[SootySport]

I've seen both the insulation drying up and cracked and the insulation intact or even burnt out and blowing fuses if wires shorting to other bare wires or the bodywork.
Your original problem maybe something else to do with the remote not talking to the body controller/comfort control, can't remember what it's called now.

 

[AbsoluteA3]

I've seen both the insulation drying up and cracked and the insulation intact or even burnt out and blowing fuses if wires shorting to other bare wires or the bodywork.
Your original problem maybe something else to do with the remote not talking to the body controller/comfort control, can't remember what it's called now.

I don't see any exposed wiring thus far. The space between door and frame is so cramped, though. Have to get a small mirror so I can see around it.

I have a spare key fob tucked away somewhere. Will have to dig it out and see if there's any difference to rule out the fob.

 

[AbsoluteA3]

I've seen both the insulation drying up and cracked and the insulation intact or even burnt out and blowing fuses if wires shorting to other bare wires or the bodywork.
Your original problem maybe something else to do with the remote not talking to the body controller/comfort control, can't remember what it's called now.

YOU WERE RIGHT! Damned. What a weird symptom. I took out my backup key fob, and everything works. Isn't that weird, that a low battery would cause a key fob to lose very specific partial functionality? Really puzzling. Anyway, I wouldn't have thought to check this if you hadn't posted. Thanks again -- you saved me a load of time. I owe you a pint!