Reverse bulbs overheating and a few other questions

[CYPHER-1986]

So still basically rebuilding this A5, at this rate. I just swapped out the fuel filter (2013 date on it, and sold as freshly serviced in Feb) when I was at the back I noticed the boot lights looked like they had sagged in, in front of the reverse bulbs, it looks like inside some of the reflector has begun to melt. They still work but obviously have just lucked out so far as not in reverse long. I tried tonight and the plastic in front of the bulbs gets hot to touch straight away. What could be causing this? Have looked for loose connections visually but nothing obvious. Anyone know where I could find a schematic for the wiring back there?

Cheers in advance

Unrelated, but also if anyone knows where I can find the torque settings for the rear diff (front and rear mounts) 6 speed manual. Would be a big help. Loads of slop in the driveline still when coming on and off the accelerator. Diff and gearbox inserts have helped but engine mounts need replacing now I think.

Getting it into second gear has been a nightmare since I got it, clutch is fairly nackered, I'm hoping clutch flywheel and oil will fix it but it feels more like something needs replacing in the linkages to the box. Has anyone done this job on axle stands and just supported the box and dragged it back? I don't have a way to get the car high enough to fully drop the box out of the bottom.

 

[EXSpartan36]

Unrelated, but also if anyone knows where I can find the torque settings for the rear diff (front and rear mounts) 6 speed manual. Would be a big help. Loads of slop in the driveline still when coming on and off the accelerator. Diff and gearbox inserts have helped but engine mounts need replacing now I think.

The front mount bolt is 55Nm and the 2 rear bolts are 95NmView attachment 242126View attachment 242127View attachment 242128

 

[CYPHER-1986]

The front mount bolt is 55Nm and the 2 rear bolts are 95NmView attachment 242126View attachment 242127View attachment 242128

Tried that seems high but didn't rip the threads out yet. Still the same, changed the rear diff oil, nasty colour but no big chunks or flakes. Feels better but noise still there. Removed and refitted front mount bush and no different. Has to be the rears. Sounds most like normal at 50-55nm at the rear but noise comes back after a day or two. Will be a pain to take the inserts out because each bolt now clashes before its clear of the inserts. They are the black powerflex so noise and vibration has to be expected but it's like charger whine at times, thought the diff was chewing itself up, felt like too much noise for vibration through the chassis but the oil was ok so now not sure

 

[pelhamsdetailing]

In all fairness, those bulbs get hot irregardless, just like your brake lights, tail lights and headlights. Hundreds of degrees, in fact. You can check to see if they're receiving 12V. They'll get between 12V and 14V, the latter when the engine is running, but if they were getting a lot more than that for some bizarre reason, they'd be running brighter, and therefore hotter.

 

[CYPHER-1986]

In all fairness, those bulbs get hot irregardless, just like your brake lights, tail lights and headlights. Hundreds of degrees, in fact. You can check to see if they're receiving 12V. They'll get between 12V and 14V, the latter when the engine is running, but if they were getting a lot more than that for some bizarre reason, they'd be running brighter, and therefore hotter.

Yeah I thought that, it's just that how I noticed it was the outside lens/casing had sucked in towards the bulb. Only on the little diamond shaped lights in the boot. On closer inspection the plastic divider between the reverse bulb and the rear red lights had melted and resolidified. I have run vcds on it but the laptop is not internet able and has to be permanently plugged in so is a pain getting the readouts onto a device that I can have them looked at. Was open circuit intermittent on number plate lights. Swapped and cleared that. Now have to find similar on rear sub, a mid bass speaker and an implausible signal from passenger central locking. Also an issue with something called a charisma switch, communication interupted or similar which is starting to look like a code I'll always have down to drive select being enabled in the mmi and no physical button for it. Something to do with control head which I believe is down to the electronic controls around the gearstick. All these gremlins have popped up after working through all the problems I already found and fixed, so has me thinking could be battery but shows full in mmi and no other tell tale signs. If I don't work it out this way I'll get the tester on the cables to the lights and see what's going to them. Thanks for the help. When I work it out I'll post what it was

 

[pelhamsdetailing]

Christ. That sounds like a nightmare. If in doubt, Halfords will do a free battery test for you to see what the voltage and ampage is. It will need reprogramming too, although it will technically run fine without doing so, but battery readings via the MMI won't be correct and is only an extra £10 for fitment and programming. If the battery is starting to show its age, it could be causing some of the electronic gremlins you've been experiencing.

I hope you're still enjoying the car though. I really miss mine!