S2 Coupe restore thread.

B5NUT

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VCDS Map User
Yes I installed a new o-ring. My car is only making stock boost so the standard o-ring should be good enough, the pipe that goes onto the o-ring is also in good condition and had fresh paint so should not leak. However If I was running more boost then I would be looking at the sleeve modification as I don't think that single o-ring could handle much more.
 

B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Finally after 8 weeks the car is on it's wheels... Just got to fit a new piece of VAC pipe, refit the ECU & battery then I'm going to start the engine!

As expected the standard 16" OEM wheels are back on with new Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres
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However my new shot blasting cabinet has arrived so that's now taking priority.
 

B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
finally refit the front bumper so I could engine started again and turn the car around, and start on the rear.
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There are still jobs to do like sort out the aircon system, need pump and front pipes.

Now on to the rear of the car, and so far I'm presently surprised! I was expecting the rear to be far worse than the front but it's a hell of a lot better.
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The strut still has black paint on it, the brake shield are in excellent condition, and even the calliper is in very good condition compared to the front.
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On a slight down side the slider pins were rusted stuck, which as most things on this car is down the lack of servicing, but a few minutes with penetrating oil and a mapp torch and they were all free.

After a few hours of work the brakes were off both sides I just need to figure out the strip down order, in respect to the subframe, diff, exhaust & prop.
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B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Had an interesting day removing the uprights and the rear subframe. First issue I had and still have is removing these trim pieces
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If anyone has any instruction on how these are removed I would be grateful.

With the trim still in place I managed to get a 22mm spanner and 7mm allen key in and removed the uprights. While I was in the boot I decided to strip it down as I did find a few issues. First the near side light bar was only held in place by the trim as the clips were missing to hold it in place. Second issue was the fuel tank, looks like someone has removed this before as there were a few bolts missing that hold it in place.
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Whatever garage (cowboys) did the work on this car, they should be ashamed as the quality of the work is appalling. The replacement copper pipe fuel lines just appear to be a right bodged job, and the cheapest parts have been used. So I will also be replacing the fuel lines while they are easily accessible.

Next issue was the overflow pipe, it was just dangling in the boot, so if you splashed any petrol near the filler neck it would have just drained in the boot!!!
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So on to taking the propshaft out, with the car on axle stands I don't have much room to work so it was a tad difficult removing the bolts. 2 came out easy and the rest did not. So I found hammering a 12m multi spline socket over the bolts took them out with ease. Then the propshaft would not come away from the diff so I used a lump hammer and an old woodworking chisel which did the job. So finally ready to remove the subframe, however one of the bushes had other plans. The bolt had rusted sold inside the bush and I snapped the head of the bolt. Then had to use a drill bit to destroy the rubber in the bush enough so I could remove the subframe & diff.

Another job added to the growing list
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All the rear bushes on the car are in a far worse condition that the front surprisingly, and it looks like I will have to go down the heritage poly bush route as I cannot find any standard rubber bushes for the rear end.
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The rear subframe is in good condition with the only rust issues that I have found to be around the arb mounts. But I will have it blasted and see if there are any other issues, but after smacking it with a hammer in several places it's very solid.
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With the diff of the car I checked to see if the drain & filler plugs could be removed and thankfully both removed with ease. However I am going to have to sort out some oil leaks.
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The leak on the left is 100% the output shaft seal, and the leak on the right is from the rubber boot. Now I figured it was split however it appears that the clip at the end has long since given up.
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Another pig of a job to sort pin is rusted to the metal. I cannot use heat due to the rubber boots & the arm is plastic.
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B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
So with the subframe off to the blasters it was time to look at the pin again. Tried twisting using the bottom of the pin but it was still stuck and it finally snapped off. So I filled the top of the pin and that appeared to free it up!
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The state of the actuator was also not the best. I'll just use longer self tapping screws to get around the issue
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I then finally got to use my blasting cabinet, first up was the mounting plate for the actuator. I was please with the result but disappointed with the condition of the plate. It's got far too many holes so I'm going to have to make a new one
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So made a template and will make one out of 1mm steel.
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Next I had to making a tool to bend the lip of the bracket, a bit a 12mm bar did the job with a 8mm cut in the middle and a slight curve on one side.
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Next to cut out the metal using the card template.
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Then was to put all the bends in the metal, Used the home made tool for the lip (project binky guy's made this look soo easy and it was a right pain to get right), for the large curve I found a hole saw that was near enough the right size and for the other 2 bends a vice & hammer was used.

After about an hour of bending & hammering it came out OK. (excuse the wood screws they were used to temporally hold the actuator)
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Now need to give the diff a good clean and get some new seals on order.
 

B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Cleaned up the diff to start getting it ready for paint and to stop any dirt getting inside when I removed the input & output shafts to fit replacement seals. It was in a bit of a state, and when cleaning I was surprised Audi had the diff painted from factory (thought the black was just 26 years of dirt), so it will be repainted in black epoxy.
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There was an unbelievable amount of dirt, grease and oil stuck to the diff. All this came out from the offside
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came up well after the first clean
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Will be going over it with thinners to clean the rest of the grease & oil off the diff.

Taking about oil this was all the oil that came out of the diff, a mere 400ml. Have been told it should have had 1.3 litres inside! No wonder there was so much dirt stuck to the diff.
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I now need to deal with this nut. It's hammered quite tight to the pinion so not sure what is the best tool to get that out with.
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Got the stuck subframe bolt out, by the time I had cut this section out from the old bush I was able to remove it with mole grips.
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The diff was degreased and repainted in two coats of epoxy. Still surprised the diff was painted from the factory.
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Shot blasted and painted some of the rear end parts.
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Then removed the stainless exhaust system. Most of the bolts came out with ease, and a few snapped due to rust.
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Then finally got the prop out and with only one bolt rounding & having to drive a 12mm multi spline socket to remove it. The centre bearing is past it so may as well replace the cv joints while I'm at it.
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B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
So today I went to remove the fuel tank, and I knew that someone had removed it already when they had replaced the fuel lines. So after removing the plate that covers the tank I was presented with this. This is a single picture that captures the quality of the work done to this car in the past. Half *****, half finished, half a job, that'll do.
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It took almost no effort to remove that securing plate.
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Sums up the work done on this car over the years quite nicely
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I'm Just Rob.

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Yet another Great project , really enjoying this one too.:yahoo:
Some nice "special " tools aswell.:icon thumright:
 
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