Shock abosorber leaking

[BrummieLad]

So I’ve had my major service at Audi yesterday and have been advised my rear drivers side rear shock absorber has a leak, and requires to be changed at a cost of £400.

I declined the offer as I think this is way too much, as the genuine shock (Sachs) is £95 from TPS, and is around an hours work.

Now ECP are doing the Sachs one for half the price, but I can’t decide whether to go for the genuine one or these instead.

Or is better to go for an aftermarket one such as Meyle who are know for their robustness.


The car only has 44000 miles on the clock so not impressed with life span on this one and there seeen to be a few of these reported on here and Golf forums.

 

[jrumball]

I would be replacing them as a pair not just one ! Just doing one will compromise the handling of the rear !

 

[AlS3BE]

Have a look on autodoc probably better getting the app as discounts are better on the app.
From what I’m seeing Sachs is about £55 each for s3.
I always replace suspension in pairs otherwise handling can go a bit off between turning left and right. Similar with springs.
To be honest if one side is bust the other side can’t be far off.

 

[BrummieLad]

Have a look on autodoc probably better getting the app as discounts are better on the app.
From what I’m seeing Sachs is about £55 each for s3.
I always replace suspension in pairs otherwise handling can go a bit off between turning left and right. Similar with springs.
To be honest if one side is bust the other side can’t be far off.

Euro are doing the pair for £103 so cheaper than Auto docs. I might as well get the fair from Euro in that case.

 

[The_Ironist]

Just had both my rears done by audi Specialist indi on A3 S-Line for £170 using OE replacements.

So £400 does seem steep.

My car is on 56k and one was completely failed and one on it’s way out.

The indi used to work at audi and said they are poor design by audi, when he worked there they had people with them failing by first service under 20k miles. Many got replaced under warranty due to this.

 

[BrummieLad]

Just had both my rears done by audi Specialist indi on A3 S-Line for £170 using OE replacements.

So £400 does seem steep.

My car is on 56k and one was completely failed and one on it’s way out.

The indi used to work at audi and said they are poor design by audi, when he worked there they had people with them failing by first service under 20k miles. Many got replaced under warranty due to this.

Yes 400 was way too steep to replace just the one shock hence why I declined. My indi has quoted me £255 for both parts and labour, using genuine Audi parts or £170 using OE Sachs replacements from Euros.

I’m tempted to go for the genuine option but given the amount of failures, it might just fail again in 12 months as you say. Might just go for the OE option.

 

[The_Ironist]

My indi made out the OE stuff is generally made in the same place and just not stamped with an audi label.

I’m selling my car. Perhaps if it was an S3 and I was keeping it I would have splurged the extra £80.

Don’t know if the Audi ones come with any added benefit in terms of longer guarantee or anything?

 

[BrummieLad]

My indi made out the OE stuff is generally made in the same place and just not stamped with an audi label.

I’m selling my car. Perhaps if it was an S3 and I was keeping it I would have splurged the extra £80.

Don’t know if the Audi ones come with any added benefit in terms of longer guarantee or anything?

They are most of the time I’ve gone on bought the OE ones, as I don’t think the “genuine” ones (also made by Sachs )are worth the hassle and they will probably fail again anyway as it’s a design flaw. Plenty of stories on the vw and Audi forums.

The quality on the OE parts is very good and have the same 2 year parts and labour warranty. The only downside is you have to claim the money back from the retailer, whereas on the dealer stuff you gone just drop it off to them to sort out.

 

[AlS3BE]

I would say not all oe quality stuff is as good as genuine stuff.
Brake pads is probably the worse especially from ecp. I’ve had pads essentially disintegrate within a thousand miles or so. As I understand it ecp pays a license fee to use certain brand names for their own cheaply manufactured stuff. This is why I try and stick to the big brands like brembo, trw, Sachs, hella etc especially when buying from ecp.

 

[BrummieLad]

I would say not all oe quality stuff is as good as genuine stuff.
Brake pads is probably the worse especially from ecp. I’ve had pads essentially disintegrate within a thousand miles or so. As I understand it ecp pays a license fee to use certain brand names for their own cheaply manufactured stuff. This is why I try and stick to the big brands like brembo, trw, Sachs, hella etc especially when buying from ecp.

Agreed but when genuine shocks are failing at 20000 miles or so, I wouldn’t class them as good either especially with amount that are failing on the MQB platform and VW have excluded them from their extended warranty which speaks volumes.

It’s also depends on who installs them, as bad workmanship can also cause the replacemebts to fail very soon. Normally I would do jobs like this myself but given the recent weather I’d rather enjoy that and sub the job out.

The prices above are based on me supplying the parts as a family member has trade accounts with both TPS and ECP so gets a pretty good discount due to the volumes he buys.

Origininal supply and fit quotes from indi were as follows:

Genuine: £350
OE: £250

 

[Khufu]

As I understand it ecp pays a license fee to use certain brand names for their own cheaply manufactured stuff. This is why I try and stick to the big brands like brembo, trw, Sachs, hella etc especially when buying from ecp.

I've heard this too from somebody that used to work for them.

 

[Retroman]

Sachs make many of the OE shocks for VAG and BMW. My A3 OE shocks are dual branded Sachs and Audi. In my opinion (having used Meyle stuff for years on BMWs) Meyle is a little over-rated. As said above - always wise to replace shocks in axle pairs.

 

[BrummieLad]

I've heard this too from somebody that used to work for them.

Yep I’ve heard this too, and I can see the attraction as it means these company make a profit, without actually producing or selling anything. Just look at the price of Brembo pads for instance, they cost pennies from ECP compared to the genuine stuff.

However bearing in mind the Brand have a reputation to uphold as well as consumer confidence, the good must meet some sort of standard being before sold under their name.

 

[BrummieLad]

Sachs make many of the OE shocks for VAG and BMW. My A3 OE shocks are dual branded Sachs and Audi. In my opinion (having used Meyle stuff for years on BMWs) Meyle is a little over-rated. As said above - always wise to replace shocks in axle pairs.

Yes I think Sachs and TRW are two of the major players in the suspension market. Funnily enough I bought a “genuine” Odor and Allergen pollen filter the other day and that too is dual branded with Audi and Mann. You would have thought they would be required to print just Audi on there. I have genuine Audi shocks in the garden for a different car, and like yourself they are branded both Audi and Sachs along with the VW AG part number.

 

[Matt Titanium]

Yep I’ve heard this too, and I can see the attraction as it means these company make a profit, without actually producing or selling anything. Just look at the price of Brembo pads for instance, they cost pennies from ECP compared to the genuine stuff.

However bearing in mind the Brand have a reputation to uphold as well as consumer confidence, the good must meet some sort of standard being before sold under their name.

Are you suggesting ECP don't sell genuine Brembo brake products?
I recently bought Brembo discs and pads from ECP for the wife's Fiesta. I did carefully check the boxes and quality and have to say everything was marked as I would have expected and everything looked spot on.
I don't see why a company like Brembo would make an inferior product just for EPC with the same packaging and part numbers as their 'top quality' items.

Perhaps they don't mark them up as much as some suppliers and shift enough to negotiate a good price direct from the manufacturer.

 

[BrummieLad]

Are you suggesting ECP don't sell genuine Brembo brake products?
I recently bought Brembo discs and pads from ECP for the wife's Fiesta. I did carefully check the boxes and quality and have to say everything was marked as I would have expected and everything looked spot on.
I don't see why a company like Brembo would make an inferior product just for EPC with the same packaging and part numbers as their 'top quality' items.

Perhaps they don't mark them up as much as some suppliers and shift enough to negotiate a good price direct from the manufacturer.

As has been said above they have a negotiated a license fee to use some of the brand name , so the Brembo you buy from ECP will not be made in the same place as the Brembo Pads and discs for a Lamborghini instance ( these will be manufactured by Brembo in-house), but rather a 3rd party facility and then branded and packaged as Brembo. Hence by you get quality issue at times as stated above, but most of the time they are ok.

 

[Retroman]

I am afraid the suggestion that manufacturers like Brembo have two manufacturing "conveyer belts" one for OE products and one for aftermarket, is an urban myth often quoted by people who are dedicated to OE service parts.

 

[Matt Titanium]

As has been said above they have a negotiated a license fee to use some of the brand name , so the Brembo you buy from ECP will not be made in the same place as the Brembo Pads and discs for a Lamborghini instance ( these will be manufactured by Brembo in-house), but rather a 3rd party facility and then branded and packaged as Brembo. Hence by you get quality issue at times as stated above, but most of the time they are ok.

You mean like those fake A3 saloons and cabrios that Audi farm out to shed in Hungary instead of the proper factory where they craft the R8?

 

[BrummieLad]

You mean like those fake A3 saloons and cabrios that Audi farm out to shed in Hungary instead of the proper factory where they craft the R8?

No mate there’s a difference, you’ve misunderstood. I didn’t say all

It’s a bit like a pair of Nike/Armani trainers/clothes or any other branded item.

Everyone knows both the fakes and genuine are made in China, in the same factory so why don’t you just buy yours from the bloke in the market stall for one fifth of the price? Why does the longevity differ massively between the two?? After all it’s the same brand and manufacturered in exactly the same place isn’t it? Yet one will last you a few years and the other will wrip or break with in a matter of days.

Answer is simple the “genuine” branded product will go through more rigorous checks and quality control as the Brand will not want to loose its contract with the vehicle manufacturer due to penalties, fear of loosing contract and reputations damage.

The above do not apply in aftermarket parts but it does not mean they do not go through quality control, just not as rigorous which why you get some poor quality stuff at times.
Also as @AlS3BE has already said some of the brands have sold the likes of ECP the rights to use their name on products which have not been produced by them, so do you think ECP care about the quality or the margin they are making? It’s not their reputation at stake us is it?

There is nothing wrong with after market parts as I use them too, but just saying you can get real crap at times which can shorten the life of the product, or make you do the same job twice.

Sometimes it’s the genuine product itself as I’ve often seen the BMW/Audi badges been grinded off due to avoid any lawsuits.

Some of the aftermarket products are far superior than the genuine products themselves. As an example I would never use the genuine ball joints, drop links etc... reason being the Meyle HD are far superior in quality.

 

[BrummieLad]

I am afraid the suggestion that manufacturers like Brembo have two manufacturing "conveyer belts" one for OE products and one for aftermarket, is an urban myth often quoted by people who are dedicated to OE service parts.

That’s not what I said read my posts again.

 

[Matt Titanium]

No mate there’s a difference, you’ve misunderstood. I didn’t say all

It’s a bit like a pair of Nike/Armani trainers/clothes or any other branded item.

Everyone knows both the fakes and genuine are made in China, in the same factory so why don’t you just buy yours from the bloke in the market stall for one fifth of the price? Why does the longevity differ massively between the two?? After all it’s the same brand and manufacturered in exactly the same place isn’t it? Yet one will last you a few years and the other will wrip or break with in a matter of days.

Answer is simple the “genuine” branded product will go through more rigorous checks and quality control as the Brand will not want to loose its contract with the vehicle manufacturer due to penalties, fear of loosing contract and reputations damage.

The above do not apply in aftermarket parts but it does not mean they do not go through quality control, just not as rigorous which why you get some poor quality stuff at times.
Also as @AlS3BE has already said some of the brands have sold the likes of ECP the rights to use their name on products which have not been produced by them, so do you think ECP care about the quality or the margin they are making? It’s not their reputation at stake us is it?

There is nothing wrong with after market parts as I use them too, but just saying you can get real **** at times which can shorten the life of the product, or make you do the same job twice.

Sometimes it’s the genuine product itself as I’ve often seen the BMW/Audi badges been grinded off due to avoid any lawsuits.

Some of the aftermarket products are far superior than the genuine products themselves. As an example I would never use the genuine ball joints, drop links etc... reason being the Meyle HD are far superior in quality.

I see Brembo as an ok mid to upper brand for artermarket brake parts. Decent quality, decent price, expect them to stop the car reliably without rusting away or falling apart for 30,000 miles.

£78 for disks and pads and an hour to fit I'm not complaining. Are they any better or worse than the Motorcraft parts that Ford offered to fit for £250 ? I don't know but they stop the car better and feel better than the originals I took off - but they are new and smooth so they would wouldn't they.

I don't expect the disks/pads for Fiestas being made in the same place or be the same materials or quality as the ones for Lamborghinis. But is there much of a market for mass-produced Lamborghini brake parts? To suggest the Brembo brakes from EPC for a Fiesta are inferior because they aren't the same as some other Brembo products for supercars that aren't sold by EPC, that's comparing apples and oranges.

I read somewhere that ECP had bought Pagid. Is this right?

 

[BrummieLad]

I see Brembo as an ok mid to upper brand for artermarket brake parts. Decent quality, decent price, expect them to stop the car reliably without rusting away or falling apart for 30,000 miles.

£78 for disks and pads and an hour to fit I'm not complaining. Are they any better or worse than the Motorcraft parts that Ford offered to fit for £250 ? I don't know but they stop the car better and feel better than the originals I took off - but they are new and smooth so they would wouldn't they.

I don't expect the disks/pads for Fiestas being made in the same place or be the same materials or quality as the ones for Lamborghinis. But is there much of a market for mass-produced Lamborghini brake parts? To suggest the Brembo brakes from EPC for a Fiesta are inferior because they aren't the same as some other Brembo products for supercars that aren't sold by EPC, that's comparing apples and oranges.

I read somewhere that ECP had bought Pagid. Is this right?

That was my point mate there is sometimes difference in quality with OEM and OE parts. I wasn’t knocking them all together.

ECP do not own Pagid, they just have the exclusive rights to sell this brand in the aftermarket. Again this would suggest to me theses are not being produced by Pagid, but rather by ECP in the Far East somewhere and just being branded as Pagid. Still decent quality stuff as I tend to use Pagid or Brembo for mines, only had issues once.

 

[SJC]

Prior to forking out anything. I would suggest making sure that it is actually requiring replaced and not an " up sale" when your car was in to get serviced to make the company an extra couple of hundred quid when it is in for work. I don't know the age of your car, but if you have MOT protect from the garage you will require OEM parts fitted. Also if it did fail an MOT with them for the shock, your excess will be £10 to get it fixed.

 

[BrummieLad]

Prior to forking out anything. I would suggest making sure that it is actually requiring replaced and not an " up sale" when your car was in to get serviced to make the company an extra couple of hundred quid when it is in for work. I don't know the age of your car, but if you have MOT protect from the garage you will require OEM parts fitted. Also if it did fail an MOT with them for the shock, your excess will be £10 to get it fixed.

I’ve had a look the other day, and the driver’s side is definently leaking. Seems to be a weak point on the MQB platform, and coincidentally all cases I’ve come across have been on the drivers side. I’ve bought a pair of Sachs (same brand as OE) for £55 a corner and they come with 2 years warranty.
Not too bothered about MOT protect as I will be using a local garage for that anyway, so will sort out any issues privately.

 

[JohnM100]

I’ve had a look the other day, and the driver’s side is definently leaking. Seems to be a weak point on the MQB platform, and coincidentally all cases I’ve come across have been on the drivers side. I’ve bought a pair of Sachs (same brand as OE) for £55 a corner and they come with 2 years warranty.
Not too bothered about MOT protect as I will be using a local garage for that anyway, so will sort out any issues privately.

Mine was rear passenger side ~59k miles replaced both at the same time.

 

[BrummieLad]

So the initial shocks I was given from ECP turned out to be the wrong ones, which I was not too happy about as I still had to pay the labour charges at the Indy.

Anyway ECP were great in sorting matters out, and I got the correct shocks yesterday and have just installed them.

It’s a straight forward job and only took me around 35 minutes and that’s with jacks and axle stands, so you can pretty much half that on a proper ramp.

Below are the pictures of the old and new shocks, only one was leaking but I changed both. I’d strongly recommend doing this yourself as it’s a decent saving.

I never had the time to do a full guide, but below are some basic steps pictures on taking the shocks off the car.

1. There is one 18mm bolt at the bottom and two 16mm boots at the top.
2. One you’ve undone these use a crowbar or flat screwdriver to take the shock off the car.
3. Next hold the bar on the shock with a mall grip or similar do it doesn’t turn and start to undo the 13m nut. This will release the mount and dust cover that you will need to put on the new shock.
4. Do the same as step 3 on the new shock, except you’re tightening now as opposed to loosening.
5. Put the shock back on the car and tighten all the bolts.

And that’s it a straight forward job. The Sachs shocks I bought are 100% identical to the originals that came off the car.

 

[BrummieLad]

Guys some of the pics are failing to upload on here due to the size. I wanted to upload the one showing you where the 2 bolts at the top are.

 

[SDB]

I know it's an old thread, but I'm just about to replace my rear dampers (shock absorbers), car has done 64k miles.
I know how to go about doing it, I just wondered if anyone had the torque values for the bolts.
For the lower bolt I've seen values of 70Nm & 180Nm - obviously a massive difference and I want to get it right.
Thanks

 

[SDB]

So it seems the bolts are 'stretch bolts', and shouldn't be reused.
With NEW correct bolts; the two for the top mount are 55Nm +45° and for the lower bolt it's 70Nm +180°

That's a lot of torque and will cause the bolts to plastically deform, which is what the new bolts are designed to do. But applying this torque to already deformed bolts is risky, as they may shear either during tightening or when driving.

If I can't get new bolts, I may apply thread lock and torque them to the values above and not add the extra rotation value.