TQS track car project - extremely slow progress

Yeah. It is the same but mirror image. I will take couple of pictures tomorrow to show you what I'm on about.
 
Here is picture of the beam.
It looks ok, but you can see that part of the beam from right headlight wonders off to the side. You can see it clearly when driving in dark. There is more light on the ground than ahead. Bear in mind that beam looks low because car is standing downhill.
 
something definately wrong with that drivers side headlamp

From another post of mine:

Find some flat ground with a wall, and drive right up to it.
Look down on the headlights from above, and mark a vertical line on the wall on the centreline of the headlight projector, then look at the headlight from the side and mark a horizontal line on the centreline of the projector.
This should give you a crosshair that lines up with the centre of the projector lens.

The beam declination on these cars is 1%, which means you need to add another horizontal line some distance below the first one.

This distance depends on how far away from the wall you reverse, so for example if you reverse back 5 meters, the second line should be 5cm below the first. You can now erase the upper horizontal line, or simply ignore it as you only need the bottom one.

You now need to aim the lower corner of the cutoff beam for each respective light at the crosshair you produced above.

The each beam looks something like this:

¯¯¯\.___

You want to be aiming it so the . in my drawing above lines up with the crosshair on its respective side.
Click to expand...

Looks like the drivers headlamp is either just massively out of adjustment, or something has broken inside it. Open the hatch and try to wiggle the internal bulb holder around. If it moves you're going to have to pull the headlamp out and try to figure out whats come off and if it can be fixed.
 
Tried to wiggle the motor and bulb holder and noticed that something isn't right, but couldn't make it sit how it should.

Pulled the headlight out and got it on my dining table. The bulb holder wasnt sitting correctly and didn't rotate fully.
Light back on car and a lot better! Might have to lower it slightly.
 
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Oh and I gave it a wash as well
 
drivers beam still doesnt look right...

Unplug the passenger headlamp so we can see just the drivers beam.

I cant see the characteristic ----\_____ shape on the drivers side. Is the shutter maybe in the wrong position?
 
Went out again to play with it more. Moved the shutter in every possible direction and this is as good as it is possible.
 
Yeah. It is spot on now after lowering driver's side. Didnt take picture because i froze by then.
 
drivers doesnt need lowered in that pic? Its level with the passengers side...

If anything the passenger side is slightly high, but without taking the measurements from the centre of the projector i'm just guessing.
 
Surely, drivers side needs to be lower than passenger with visible step up between them?
 
I see. Will set it tomorrow
 
Guys,

Is this how one of box mounts look like on a TQS?
 
Yes, I took mine off my '98 1.8TQS yesterday. The OEM ones have voids in them, so they wont transmit as much vibration but the metal perimeter is the same.
The one in the illustration is for the left hand side, I deplore the use of "passenger side" or "driver's side" as a description on international websites, the Americans are bad at it.
 
Yeah. I have couple of s4 mounts in the garden but they are both the same and look different to this one. That's why the question. I would have to do snorkeling right now if I wanted to get under the car to check.
 
Both mine have V6 subframes fitted and thus have the S4 style mounts on both sides, but yes, the 4 cylinder subframe uses a different left hand mount as pictured.
 
A very nice parcel arrived from US today :)
 
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Given you planned to fit the 6 speed, wouldnt it have made more sense to get the V6 mount? Or are you not going to do that now?
 
Yeah. Decided to stay with 5 speed and sell the 6 speed. Should have box and diff soon.
 
I am seriously f*****g annoyed right now.
Didn't drive the car for over a month. Had a look today and there was a puddle of water in the back footwell. So thought, ok will dry it out. Got rid of the water, went to starting up the car - battery dead. Ok. I forgot to disconnect it. Jump started it and went for a drive. Got on a dual carrigeway and 10 sec later oil pressure light comes on!

Everything was completely fine last time I drove it for a whole week to work. I've done maybe 2k miles since fitting new oil pump.

Now need to get it back home somehow!
 
Yes. Full of oil. I do have rac but have to be over a mile from home!
 
Yeah. I did. Will need to see wtf is the reason for that. I guess sump off job will be the first one come spring time. Might as well get the engine and box out, change all mounts and gearbox at the same time.
It seems a bit weird that after only 2k miles pump would fail again or pickup get clogged up.

I think it is time to get oil pressure gauge.
 
Last edited:
I have a 034 snub and bracket the bracket is here in the pic sits pretty close all the way round the bush.

 
Interesting. Is it possible to fit the snub without the bracket?
 
You guys any good with puzzles?
I got a good one today!
 
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Ok, I took everything out of the car today to have a look if I have everything I need for the conversion.
So I've got:
- peddle box with switches for clutch and brake (will need a diagram to find out where these should be connected to)
- accelerator with wiring and white plug on the end (uncut wires which is a bonus)
- 2 lambda sensors
- map sensor (no housing though). I was told it was plugged in to intercooler. Will need to find a pipe to be able to plug it in with my fmic.
- throttle body with bolts
- me 7.5 ecu
- maf sensor
- whole engine loom
- n249 and n112.

Does it look like everything I need or I missed something?




 
Bradderz_1988 said:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/182000327517
Click to expand...

Thanks. Found an adapter which can be welded on to my current fmic pipework.

I'm struggling to find AWT wiring diagrams for the white ecu plug and brake /clutch switches. Found one for AWM, but it has different wire colours and isn't complete.
My elsawin doesn't have the diagrams :(

Also, do you guys know if the wideband o2 sensor fits straight in instead of our stock one ? I assume the rear one will have to be coded out?

Also, not sure what is needed to have the vvt working.

Any help would be appreciated. I want to sort out the wiring before I start stripping dash to remove peddle box.
@aragorn @Bradderz_1988 @Broken Byzan
 
I'll see what i can find in the diagrams.

If you have a VVT loom then it should all just plug in. You just need to fit the VVT tensioner in place of the standard one and thats it.

The wideband has the same thread, so will screw right. rear can be coded out if you dont have one.
 
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How can I tell if it is VVT or not? It is from an AWT passat.
 
Did oil and filter change today and went for a good 30min drive. No sign of red oil light, so slightly confused.

Will do the fuel and air filters if weather allows tomorrow.

Also sold the 6 speed and s4 diff. TQS 5 speed and diff should be arriving tomorrow :)
 
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