Tuning potential

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Hello, I’m looking to get some more power out my Audi A3 2.0L TFSI (EA888), and I’m wondering how much power can get out of the engine with stock internals, and what performance mods are recommended. Thank you.
 
Hello, I’m looking to get some more power out my Audi A3 2.0L TFSI (EA888), and I’m wondering how much power can get out of the engine with stock internals, and what performance mods are recommended. Thank you.
Hi Stefan,

not sure what year your A3 is ...

Mine is 2006 and came stock with 200 HP.
Imho, the best value for you money is a Stage 1 tune. My Eurodyne cost me around $500 and claims to add 50 HP. I believe Stage 1 does not require any h/w modifications.
I did not get Stage 2, as that "only" seems to add another 25 HP and you might need to upgrade your down pipe (or the whole exhaust), most likely at the cost of above $1,000. You also need to upgrade your high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) which may cost in the neighbourhood of $500-600. So you're looking at $1,600 to add 25HP.
I also added Neuspeed cold air intake but honestly, can't tell much of difference rather than visual and more of the turbo whistle. Perhaps 5 HP ??

So short answer is - Stage 1 tune is the most noticeable and most effective modification to the stock engine.

Cheers,
 
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Hi Stefan,

not sure what year your A3 is ...

Mine is 2006 and came stock with 200 HP.
Imho, the best value for you money is a Stage 1 tune. My Eurodyne cost me around $500 and claims to add 50 HP. I believe Stage 1 does not require any h/w modifications.
I did not get Stage 2, as that "only" seems to add another 25 HP and you might need to upgrade your down pipe (or the whole exhaust), most likely at the cost of above $1,000. You also need to upgrade your high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) which may cost in the neighbourhood of $500-600. So you're looking at $1,600 to add 25HP.
I also added Neuspeed cold air intake but honestly, can't tell much of difference rather than visual and more of the turbo whistle. Perhaps 5 HP ??

So short answer is - Stage 1 tune is the most noticeable and most effective modification to the stock engine.

Cheers,
Mine is the 2012 model and it also has 200 bhp, I think 250 will do me fine, thank you for your help :)
 
I second the stage 1 tune as a first and possibly only mod to the 2.0. I'm also a 2012 2.0t owner and a unitronic tune made the car a lot more enjoyable.

I'm still thinking about stage 2. But that's mostly because my first catalytic converter is supposedly not in great shape so might as well changing the whole downpipe. According to unitronic, the downpipe is the only requirement to go stage 2. Other tuners might differ on this though.

Envoyé de mon Pixel 4a en utilisant Tapatalk
 
just a reminder.... posting a thread about advice for more bhp is inversely proportional to bank acct. My suggestion is to stay away because these peeps will spend your money faster than a drunken sailor lol
 
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just a reminder.... posting a thread about advice for more bhp is inversely proportional to bank acct. My suggestion is to stay away because these peeps will spend your money faster than a drunken sailor lol
piggybacking off of this post, it really does depend on how much you wanna spend.
a mate has the older 2.0tfsi (bwa) and did a k04 conversion (turbo, hpfp, intercooler, decat etc) and is pushing around 350bhp. the thing is a weapon but he paid a lot to get there.

so yeah, the potential is limited by your wallet
 
400hp and 500nm is doable on stock internals. But its hard on the engine, as a tech on these cars I myself would do it, but run high quality oil(motul, redline) and 5000km changes

Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk
 
Need the Quattro version to use all the extra power. I have stage 1 E888 TSI with 249bhp and you can use all the power all the time with 4WD. It’s just a daily driver car for the wife, I think it’s great, best all round car I’ve ever had.
 
I second the stage 1 tune as a first and possibly only mod to the 2.0. I'm also a 2012 2.0t owner and a unitronic tune made the car a lot more enjoyable.

I'm still thinking about stage 2. But that's mostly because my first catalytic converter is supposedly not in great shape so might as well changing the whole downpipe. According to unitronic, the downpipe is the only requirement to go stage 2. Other tuners might differ on this though.

Envoyé de mon Pixel 4a en utilisant Tapatalk

Third the stage 1 tune! It was the first mod I got and made a whole world of difference. The car came alive and after I've installed countless other mods, I can say without a doubt this was the most dramatic difference. Also @lafa3ro if you wanna go stage 2 I'd recommend an intercooler, it's not going to make big power differences but it'll cut down a lot of head soak after pulls which makes a big difference in the summer, just my two cents tho.

400hp and 500nm is doable on stock internals. But its hard on the engine, as a tech on these cars I myself would do it, but run high quality oil(motul, redline) and 5000km changes

Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

Probably not the thread to discuss this but from what I've heard it really comes down to how the tune is set up. Don't get me wrong, your asking to snap at rod at those levels, its more a matter of time with how the tune is set up. Aggressive torque / Surging is really what you want to try and avoid. I think ~370-380 ft/lbs is probably your upper limit while keeping it reliable. But everyone's engine is different and so are the environmental factors.

Need the Quattro version to use all the extra power. I have stage 1 E888 TSI with 249bhp and you can use all the power all the time with 4WD. It’s just a daily driver car for the wife, I think it’s great, best all round car I’ve ever had.

I would say "need" maybe isn't the word to use here. Good tires will make a big difference, I got summers on and have zero traction issues past 1st which is a useless gear anyways.



Lastly, Bronco mentioned HPFP and injectors which you WILL NOT need if you ever want to go down the K04 road.
I've spent the last month researching this and it comes down to the fact that their are two 2.0 TFSI generations. The first is timing belt driven and that does NEED a HPFP and upgraded injectors which are deff pricy. But you have the second generation engine (Same as mine) which doesn't NEED those upgrades. Obvi still not cheap to go all the way to K04 but were talking about almost doubling your HP from the factory so.... goes without saying.
 
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Third the stage 1 tune! It was the first mod I got and made a whole world of difference. The car came alive and after I've installed countless other mods, I can say without a doubt this was the most dramatic difference. Also @lafa3ro if you wanna go stage 2 I'd recommend an intercooler, it's not going to make big power differences but it'll cut down a lot of head soak after pulls which makes a big difference in the summer, just my two cents tho.



Probably not the thread to discuss this but from what I've heard it really comes down to how the tune is set up. Don't get me wrong, your asking to snap at rod at those levels, its more a matter of time with how the tune is set up. Aggressive torque / Surging is really what you want to try and avoid. I think ~370-380 ft/lbs is probably your upper limit while keeping it reliable. But everyone's engine is different and so are the environmental factors.



I would say "need" maybe isn't the word to use here. Good tires will make a big difference, I got summers on and have zero traction issues past 1st which is a useless gear anyways.



Lastly, Bronco mentioned HPFP and injectors which you WILL NOT need if you ever want to go down the K04 road.
I've spent the last month researching this and it comes down to the fact that their are two 2.0 TFSI generations. The first is timing belt driven and that does NEED a HPFP and upgraded injectors which are deff pricy. But you have the second generation engine (Same as mine) which doesn't NEED those upgrades. Obvi still not cheap to go all the way to K04 but were talking about almost doubling your HP from the factory so.... goes without saying.
piggybacking off of this post, it really does depend on how much you wanna spend.
a mate has the older 2.0tfsi (bwa) and did a k04 conversion (turbo, hpfp, intercooler, decat etc) and is pushing around 350bhp. the thing is a weapon but he paid a lot to get there.

so yeah, the potential is limited by your wallet
Hello, would you say that’s “reliable power” or is that starting to push the engine to its limits?
 
in my friends case, its reliable as long as you maintain it.
that much power does show up issues that you might not have noticed if the car was stock, so the car is one of the best maintained cars ive seen, purely out of necessity.

it doesnt feel like the engine is at its limits. if anything it feels like it has more to give.
 
Sorry to hop on this thread, before I create my own I'll post here, see if someone has an answer.
Would BWA downpipe fit on BHZ or is the turbo flange different?

Quite frankly I haven't got hundreds to fork out on Miltek or Cobra dp so was looking at the non branded but struggling to find catted for mine (BHZ).
I've seen @AdamC95 thread but I don't seem to be able to message him and he's been last online in Sept 2021.

Thanks

edit:
according to etka the turbo/dp seal is the same so I would assume the flange and bolt distances are the same, rest of the question still applies
 
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Sorry to hop on this thread, before I create my own I'll post here, see if someone has an answer.
Would BWA downpipe fit on BHZ or is the turbo flange different?

Quite frankly I haven't got hundreds to fork out on Miltek or Cobra dp so was looking at the non branded but struggling to find catted for mine (BHZ).
I've seen @AdamC95 thread but I don't seem to be able to message him and he's been last online in Sept 2021.

Thanks

edit:
according to etka the turbo/dp seal is the same so I would assume the flange and bolt distances are the same, rest of the question still applies
Got ebay special pipe :)
 

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