Urgent help needed. Transfer box>Rear drive shaft S3 8p

Daveyonthemove

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We are in the process of removing a knackered transfer box, but due to it being in a bad way it cannot be locked into position to prevent the rear drive shaft turning when we attempt to undo the 3 bolts connecting the two.
Putting it in gear doesn't work, sadly.

Has anyone on here done this before, or have any ideas? At the moment the job is at a stop as we can't prevent the drive shaft spinning.

Thanks in advance.
 
We are in the process of removing a knackered transfer box, but due to it being in a bad way it cannot be locked into position to prevent the rear drive shaft turning when we attempt to undo the 3 bolts connecting the two.
Putting it in gear doesn't work, sadly.

Has anyone on here done this before, or have any ideas? At the moment the job is at a stop as we can't prevent the drive shaft spinning.

Thanks in advance.
If the transfer box is that badly damaged obviously its not going back then just drill a hole in the casing and hammer long heavy bolt or old screwdriver in to lock the unit.
Or
hammer and chisel part of the casing away to expose and weld a metal bar on the pinion shaft.
Really you've got no choice but take evasive measures.
Dave O

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We were hoping to get it off and inspect it with the hope of re-using it IF it was in a condition where it could be.
That may be a last resort plan, but thank you for the suggestion :)
 
We were hoping to get it off and inspect it with the hope of re-using it IF it was in a condition where it could be.
That may be a last resort plan, but thank you for the suggestion :)

What about fitting a long bar or something at the wheel end using the wheel bolt holes are so it hits the ground or have someone hold a socket and long bar on hub bolt to stop it turning


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It's been tried, but the gears in the TB aren't stopping the wheel from turning, so that won't lock the box either.
There are also flanges covering any places where a bar/screw driver could slip in a gap and lock it off against the underside of the car, or floor.

I'm thinking that locking the rear wheels by initiating the Haldex electronically might work, but not sure if it's possible using OBD Eleven.
If anyone knows a way of engaging the rear drive that might be what we need.
 
We are in the process of removing a knackered transfer box, but due to it being in a bad way it cannot be locked into position to prevent the rear drive shaft turning when we attempt to undo the 3 bolts connecting the two.
Putting it in gear doesn't work, sadly.

Has anyone on here done this before, or have any ideas? At the moment the job is at a stop as we can't prevent the drive shaft spinning.

Thanks in advance.
If the transfer box is that badly damaged obviously its not going back then just drill a hole in the casing and hammer long heavy bolt or old screwdriver in to lock the unit.
Or
hammer and chisel part of the casing away to expose and weld a metal bar on the pinion shaft.
Really you've got no choice but take evasive measures.
Dave O

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
It's been tried, but the gears in the TB aren't stopping the wheel from turning, so that won't lock the box either.
There are also flanges covering any places where a bar/screw driver could slip in a gap and lock it off against the underside of the car, or floor.

I'm thinking that locking the rear wheels by initiating the Haldex electronically might work, but not sure if it's possible using OBD Eleven.
If anyone knows a way of engaging the rear drive that might be what we need.
what about an oil filter strap around the rear prop and jam it against the floor panels somehow?
Dave O

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Tried that, the drive shaft is too slippy and still turns. We are going to look for something with a bit more grip to it like a rubber pad.

My haldex idea almost worked. We got the pump engaged but it wasn't strong enough to lock the drive shaft completely.
We are reluctant to butcher it off the car as it may be a bearing that has gone, which could be a cheap fix as opposed to an expensive refurbished replacement.
Trust me, if that is the only way to remove it then it will be done, but it is the very last resort once all other options have been explored.
 
Can you make some custom tool to hold it in place?
 
Can you make some custom tool to hold it in place?
The shaft has flanges over both ends where you might have been able to jam something in to prevent it turning, so the we can only try to stop the shaft turning at the moment, which is easier said than done.
 
Tried that, the drive shaft is too slippy and still turns. We are going to look for something with a bit more grip to it like a rubber pad.

My haldex idea almost worked. We got the pump engaged but it wasn't strong enough to lock the drive shaft completely.
We are reluctant to butcher it off the car as it may be a bearing that has gone, which could be a cheap fix as opposed to an expensive refurbished replacement.
Trust me, if that is the only way to remove it then it will be done, but it is the very last resort once all other options have been explored.
You meed to make a chain strap, that will grip it for sure, something like this i would expect wound dig in a bit.
891b885cebc3ce216acda86375a7884f.jpg


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It was a chain strap that we tried.
Impact gun just released one of the bolts, so we are making progress.
 
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ok my friend we are all here to help
good luck!
It was a chain strap that we tried.
Impact gun just released one of the bolts, so we are making progress.

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Maybe it’s worth trying a bit of heat on the bolts or maybe trashing the drive shaft by drilling through it and stop it spinning with a large screwdriver or something. That would be cheaper than trashing the box


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Ok, so for some reason the power tools were never considered and hand tools were used.
As we all know, the force is slow and for that reason the drive shaft turned every time, and we sort of focused on how to stop it moving.
Took a few hours of head scratching before we realised the Impact gun might work, and it did!

Huge thanks to everyone who took time to post suggestions and photos, it's appreciated.
If you ever find yourself in the same position, use the power tools first!
 
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Ok, so for some reason the power tools were never considered and hand tools were used.
As we all know, the force is slow and for that reason the drive shaft turned every time, and we sort of focused on how to stop it moving.
Took a few hours of head scratching before we realised the Impact gun might work, and it did!

Huge thanks to everyone who took time to post suggestions and photos, it's appreciated.
If you ever find yourself in the same position, use the power tools first!

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
Ok, so for some reason the power tools were never considered and hand tools were used.
As we all know, the force is slow and for that reason the drive shaft turned every time, and we sort of focused on how to stop it moving.
Took a few hours of head scratching before we realised the Impact gun might work, and it did!

Huge thanks to everyone who took time to post suggestions and photos, it's appreciated.
If you ever find yourself in the same position, use the power tools first!
Sometimes we overthink and miss the easiest solution. It happens all the time!
 
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My rattle gun was the best thing i ever bought for stripping engines.
 
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I'm getting quotes for a replacement, and some companies don't seem to know their elbows from other areas of their anatomy!
This morning I contacted a specialist VAG breakers for a quote and got a reply basically saying they would collect my car, remove the engine, strip it down to a bare block, do 100 point check on the rest of the car, replace all pistons etc with OEM parts, check everything else and then clean it for me ready for collection.
£3495!

I want a ****** transfer box!
It's hard to trust some companies when they get things so badly wrong.
 
Just get a different quote, they obviously not trusted with a reply such as that. or someone at the other end cant read properly.
I'm getting quotes for a replacement, and some companies don't seem to know their elbows from other areas of their anatomy!
This morning I contacted a specialist VAG breakers for a quote and got a reply basically saying they would collect my car, remove the engine, strip it down to a bare block, do 100 point check on the rest of the car, replace all pistons etc with OEM parts, check everything else and then clean it for me ready for collection.
£3495!

I want a ****** transfer box!
It's hard to trust some companies when they get things so badly wrong.

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I have, I'm still waiting on about 5 companies and a few private sellers who don't check their inbox.
 
I'm getting quotes for a replacement, and some companies don't seem to know their elbows from other areas of their anatomy!
This morning I contacted a specialist VAG breakers for a quote and got a reply basically saying they would collect my car, remove the engine, strip it down to a bare block, do 100 point check on the rest of the car, replace all pistons etc with OEM parts, check everything else and then clean it for me ready for collection.
£3495!

I want a ****** transfer box!
It's hard to trust some companies when they get things so badly wrong.
Did you try aks tuning for transfer box?
 
Did you try aks tuning for transfer box?
I'll be honest, I've googled and messaged so many companies I can't recall, but if I have then they haven't replied yet.
As it happens I may have sourced one for a fair price, just finalising a few details before I send some money.
 
Transfer box had its autopsy today.
It would appear that the bearings wanted to meet some spinning cogs, and that is why my car came to a very sudden crunching stop at 30mph.
I have sourced one from another member on here for a very good price, so all being well it be on the car in a matter of days.
 

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ouch!! are you pushing big power to cause that kind of damage?
Transfer box had its autopsy today.
It would appear that the bearings wanted to meet some spinning cogs, and that is why my car came to a very sudden crunching stop at 30mph.
I have sourced one from another member on here for a very good price, so all being well it be on the car in a matter of days.

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No, just had a new clutch and flywheel so it is running stock power. Most it's seen under my ownership is Bluefin stage 1 (300bhp) so it should be able to handle more.
 
Make sure you get a tb tor manual box, as the one for s-tronic is different
 
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In the future, call Mike Hindle on 01905 346808 and give him your reg. He can confirm which transfer case part numbers will be suitable for your car. At least that will take the guesswork out of it. Then you can search ebay for used boxes - there are many. New cases are close to 2k, but used go for around 300-400. I used a local specialist, who replaced the box for me.
 
In the future, call Mike Hindle on 01905 346808 and give him your reg. He can confirm which transfer case part numbers will be suitable for your car. At least that will take the guesswork out of it. Then you can search ebay for used boxes - there are many. New cases are close to 2k, but used go for around 300-400. I used a local specialist, who replaced the box for me.
Thanks for the tip mate. I was able to source one for £120 delivered and it arrived yesterday.
Aside from a bit of surface rust it seems to be fine, so it's been cleaned up ready to fit.
 
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Thanks for the tip mate. I was able to source one for £120 delivered and it arrived yesterday.
Aside from a bit of surface rust it seems to be fine, so it's been cleaned up ready to fit.
That's a very good price! Any more where that came from? I have a feeling that my recent transfer box is starting to die now :(
 
Hi I am about to remove my transfer case too, Does it come out easy? or do I have to remove the engine or does it slide out on the passangerside? after removing 4 bolts towards the gearbox and cvaxle and the axle to rear wheels?
Thanks Ville
 

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