What have you done to your A3 (8p) this week

New EBC Yellowstuff front pads in on the weekend
 

Attachments

  • 20230709_152142.jpg
    20230709_152142.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 103
  • 20230709_151738.jpg
    20230709_151738.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 128
Been abit busy so not had change to post on here for a while. Safe to say I’ve done a ton on the car lately but this week I finally got around to my R8 camera install.
246367a0eb86b7ffb33f8d65dc8d5958.jpg


Now all I have to do is make a switch or find a pass through as I want to keep my tv retrofit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Been abit busy so not had change to post on here for a while. Safe to say I’ve done a ton on the car lately but this week I finally got around to my R8 camera install.
246367a0eb86b7ffb33f8d65dc8d5958.jpg


Now all I have to do is make a switch or find a pass through as I want to keep my tv retrofit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice one. I remember when I did mine and the hardest part was running the cabling through the boot grommet. Funnily enough I have to fit my friends reverse setup soon now the weather is better. Think I have the Kufatec coding somewhere. From memory it keeps a CANBUS fault when scanning the car. Unless you managed to get around that with the coding?

725c0e3e0ba80a3c59562ed1c3b627a2.jpg
 
Nice one. I remember when I did mine and the hardest part was running the cabling through the boot grommet. Funnily enough I have to fit my friends reverse setup soon now the weather is better. Think I have the Kufatec coding somewhere. From memory it keeps a CANBUS fault when scanning the car. Unless you managed to get around that with the coding?

725c0e3e0ba80a3c59562ed1c3b627a2.jpg

Mate funnily enough when I fitted tv running two shotgun fakra cables through that grommet was a special time so this time around a single fakra and two little wires was a dream lol. If there’s any extra info you can share from kufatec would be greatly appreciated as I’m hoping to find a way of having both without building a switch.

I’ve no faults on mine but then all I’ve done is fit the oem stuff. My rnse is running custom firmware though so maybe that might have something to do with it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mate funnily enough when I fitted tv running two shotgun fakra cables through that grommet was a special time so this time around a single fakra and two little wires was a dream lol. If any extra info you can share from kufatec would be greatly appreciated as I’m hoping to find a way of having both without building a switch.

I’ve no faults on mine but then all I’ve done is fit the oem stuff. My rnse is running custom firmware though so maybe that might have something to do with it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah there’s certainly a knack how to feed through the ribbed grommet. Yeah mine was a custom firmware too.
Address 19 for installation list
Address 6C binary change depending on APS/AHK
Address 10 byte 0
Address 37 change channel

sound about right?
 
Yeah there’s certainly a knack how to feed through the ribbed grommet. Yeah mine was a custom firmware too.
Address 19 for installation list
Address 6C binary change depending on APS/AHK
Address 10 byte 0
Address 37 change channel

sound about right?

Off the top of my head yeah that sounds about right. I forgot you’re also on it as well it’s been a long week and it’s only Monday


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got another 700hp capable low pressure fuel pump (this time drop in basket), new low pressure fuel pump controller and low pressure fuel sensor.IMG 20230714 173351
 
Few more bits done, creation Motorsport heatshield, stainless dead pedal to match the pedals and heat wrapped the exhaust from turbo to the rear box.
594725aabb74df29c618ed2d4181212d.jpg
490485235e2d9d9bac487243fd15701a.jpg
a1b8939f9cce4f1da6da741183cab254.jpg


Sent from my NE2213 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: y0su and S.
Well had the S3 rear brake disc's n pads done the other day and what a job it F**kin was , seems as if the spline bolts and carrier bolts had been screwed back in with an impact gun as they where really really tight with no lube on them . ( so last owner must have had that done.)
Friend found it easier to remove rear shock to get into top calpier spline bolt . Now only need to bleed as i av small amount off air in system .
Then it will be front brakes but me thinking after trying to remove bolts with breaker bar ( unsuccessful ) it will be impact gun i will need . Once off a good clean up and some lube and she will stop n handle better .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: S.
Just made the transition from an OEM steering wheel to a Carbon Flat Bottom with carbon dsg paddles and a new airbag cover.
Before
362674441 601823415425778 6112318007866449920 n


After
374572173 2919415661526696 3973151154884651856 n
 
  • Like
Reactions: y0su, AbsoluteA3, S. and 2 others
Had it polished and sealed, first time in 3 years
 

Attachments

  • 371767114_10160816648205489_1814392613995002386_n.jpg
    371767114_10160816648205489_1814392613995002386_n.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 75
  • Like
Reactions: y0su
Saturday, about to go to the shops, turn key in ignition aand... won't turn. Will go past steering lock but doesn't make it quite all the way to first position.
Seen a few threads on here about bits of metal inside the ignition barrel breaking off and jamming the locking cylinder, seems like the probable cause.
Down to the last part now, just struggling to get the """security""" shear bolts out. Why these exist is beyond me. A thief who's already got this far isn't going to give up now. An independent garage can easily remove them. Just seems a feature to make the DIYers life a bit more difficult and give the illusion of security.
Tips welcome. Bought an extractor kit but can't get a good angle with the size of my drill / dash overhang.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0358.JPG
    IMG_0358.JPG
    2.1 MB · Views: 75
Saturday, about to go to the shops, turn key in ignition aand... won't turn. Will go past steering lock but doesn't make it quite all the way to first position.
Seen a few threads on here about bits of metal inside the ignition barrel breaking off and jamming the locking cylinder, seems like the probable cause.
Down to the last part now, just struggling to get the """security""" shear bolts out. Why these exist is beyond me. A thief who's already got this far isn't going to give up now. An independent garage can easily remove them. Just seems a feature to make the DIYers life a bit more difficult and give the illusion of security.
Tips welcome. Bought an extractor kit but can't get a good angle with the size of my drill / dash overhang.
New ignition barrel arriving today so we'll see how that goes. Still not sure what happened. Apparently there is a security mechanism which locks up the cylinder if it detects tampering. Might have just gone with time.
First job of the morning though, taking out the front seat to fix the height adjuster. First bolt (T50), apply a bit of torque, then a bit more, then... stripped. Can't drill it out, can't hammer it out. There goes my weekend. I love my car.
 
Well, I'm not quite sure what to say for what I did... because it's a bit of a mystery.

I was having this real headache of a problem with my alarm system. (Audi A3 8P 2007, USA spec). Once in a while I'd click the fob to lock and while the mechanical lock sound could be heard on all doors, the flashers wouldn't flash and no beep sound. I rolled down the driver's window, locked the car, then reached in to open the door from the inside latch... and the alarm did NOT go off. Bullocks!

But then, on a lark, after locking and knowing the alarm didn't arm, I pressed the panic button, then unlocked the car and clicked to lock. *BEEP!* and *FLASH!* It was armed. Weird. OK, I figured it was a fluke, but it happened again some days later. And the next day it was fine. Then it would happen again. Like a Ghost in the Machine.

Well, finally I figured out why this was happening. The left rear door! Despite hearing the mechanism click, the door was actually not locking. I could open it from the outside. And when the normal alarm arming indicators (flash and beep) came back? That door was locked. So... I did the old "bangaroo" deal. I opened and closed the door a number of times, closing with a little more force than normal. I also rolled down the window so I could open either with inner latch or outer handle. I kept at it a few times. After that? Alarm went back to arming. A few weeks since and it's OK. I don't know if it was just the lock sticking a bit, or if there's an issue with the wire loom for that door... but hopefully if the problem comes back, my brawny solution will do the trick.
 
Got my rear tyres changed, they still had 3mm of tread on them but were starting to show signs of perishing, they were around 4 years old.Have had a slight rumbling sound from the rear for a few months and I thought either a bearing or the diff was on the way out but after the tyres were changed, the sound is gone! I guess that's a case of castellation
 
  • Like
Reactions: AbsoluteA3
Fitted goodridge braided brake lines, new 370mm zimmermann brake discs and ebc red stuff pads (ttrs 8j setup).
 
Got some Pirelli P7 tyres fitted all round. Gonna be removing my 345mm front and 310mm brakes next week as it looks nice but abit excessive for a 1.9tdi lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: tcardio
Got my rear tyres changed, they still had 3mm of tread on them but were starting to show signs of perishing, they were around 4 years old.Have had a slight rumbling sound from the rear for a few months and I thought either a bearing or the diff was on the way out but after the tyres were changed, the sound is gone! I guess that's a case of castellation
You lucked out, Dave.
I'm approaching 99k miles now and this summer I started to hear a slight droning noise coming from the rear. In time it started to progress a bit louder and then some test driving on curves started to reveal that the culprit was the right rear. A little louder on taking hard left curves, noticeably reduced when taking hard right curves (weight lifted). Took a test drive with a specialist and he suspected right rear wheel bearings. It was my suspicion too, but I was hoping new tires would get rid of it. And the sound abated a bit... but didn't go way. That's when I realized part of the noise was just the worn tires. Looks like I'm going to have to do the job. I was quoted $900 USD by the dealer, and the local mechanic I trust said $400 USD.
 
MOT check on the 350,000 mile ‘09 A3 yesterday revealed a lot of soft metal in places especially both sills, rear boot floor area has 4 holes and also soft at the opening where the handbrake cables go into the body

Needless to say we’ve written it off and it won’t see its MOT in a couple of weeks. It needs a gearbox as the diff is about to explode again so this is just adding insult to injury too.

Lot of memories over the last 13 years, lot of miles travelled (322,000) but at the end of the day it’s just metal will be sad to see it go but hey-ho

Not dead from the common well known fault of conrod failure which is the more annoying thing of the whole lot! I’ll be stripping parts out of it that I can sell on and the rest will be squashed

IMG 0645
IMG 0015
 
  • Like
  • Sad
Reactions: y0su, AbsoluteA3, S. and 2 others