What have you done to your A4 b6 today?
- Thread starter krisavant
- Start date
Yeah they usually go for £50-150
needless to say I won’t be replacing it unless one comes up mega cheap!
Looks quite cool and unique with the tint, do the indicators come through amberish? That's the only thing that puts me off... although mine are black now so no chance of then going red 
Looks quite cool and unique with the tint, do the indicators come through amberish? That's the only thing that puts me off... although mine are black now so no chance of then going red
Cheers dude. Yeah they show through amber enough
What did I do to my B6 S4 today? I sold it, I think it's fair to say the seller put one over on me, not being a mechanic, and there were several things that came to light after I'd bought it that any scrupulous dealer would have sorted out prior to sale. I fell out of love with the car and once that happened it was time to bite the bullet, suck up the loss and move on so i'm back in the Mercedes fold with an R230 SL.
Think I’ve fixed the hissing sound.. the hose coming from the turbo to the IC bridge was very loose.. today I swapped it to a new one.. even increased the diameter, so looking forward to a few more horses 
Think the culprit is this little hole, from it moving back and forth...
Now I need to find out why the steering shakes around a certain speed and increases when brakes get hot
Think the culprit is this little hole, from it moving back and forth...
Now I need to find out why the steering shakes around a certain speed and increases when brakes get hot
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 2,079
- Reaction score
- 245
- Points
- 63
Well, that hole wasn’t the culprit.. still hisses periodically when it reaches high gear boost..
Think I’ll try to take of the pipe that crosses the engine bay, as I removed it when installing the engine heater. Must be something out of place there since it started after that..
Also had the air temp sensor out.. perhaps it’s that which isn’t sitting flush
Think I’ll try to take of the pipe that crosses the engine bay, as I removed it when installing the engine heater. Must be something out of place there since it started after that..
Also had the air temp sensor out.. perhaps it’s that which isn’t sitting flush
Don’t know.. I’m thinking of taking it to the same garage where I’ll get the brakes fixed.
They have a dyno.. A bit easier to find leaks with the hood opened and doing +60mph, when the car is in situ..
But first I’ll take it apart and put it back together.. Because of the holidays, they’ll open Tuesday
Found another reason why it makes the hissing sound.. missing the blanking plate from under the EGR...
Why it all of a sudden start to make the noise, I don’t know.
As i recall I never fitted it as the vacuum hose has been clamped.
(It’s not oil, it’s sealant)
Also tried my dial gauge to check the brakes..
Think they need to be lathed
Question is if they were like that from beginning or something warped them after installation
Why it all of a sudden start to make the noise, I don’t know.
As i recall I never fitted it as the vacuum hose has been clamped.
(It’s not oil, it’s sealant)
Also tried my dial gauge to check the brakes..
Think they need to be lathed
Question is if they were like that from beginning or something warped them after installation
Most leave the tube in place and put a 1.5mm slip in blank at the base near exhaust manifold .
Looks standard .
No leaks .
Easier to fit as two bolts only require slackening .
Looks standard .
No leaks .
Easier to fit as two bolts only require slackening .
So today was a fuel, air and pollen filter change and managed to snap the dipstick. A trip to my local German Audi garage and one ordered for €5 and also picked up a filter housing removal tool from my local Garage for €9 so oil change tomorrow before the TUV (German MOT). Fingers crossed
Did you have to buy that formed hose or were you able to use generic hose?
Here it is, had a little trouble loading the pic?
It's the pipe that goes from N75 to the turbo where it's attached via a banjo bolt.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2016
- Messages
- 2,056
- Reaction score
- 734
- Points
- 113
I bought a turbo inlet pipe complete with n75 and all hoses and pipes included.
The pipe is a different diameter at both ends, you could use a generic hose as long as it matched the smaller diameter and would stretch to the larger one as well.
Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2016
- Messages
- 2,056
- Reaction score
- 734
- Points
- 113
It has been an age since I did anything to the cab so today I did the ignition accessory live mod for the head unit, so when I take the key out the power is cut to the head unit as opposed to it still being live & able to turn on without the need for the ignition accessory .
Repaired some curb rash to a wheel & buffed out a paint scrap on the drivers rear corner that some really thoughtful Muppet left .....
Came across a 3.2 quattro cab yesterday, my god it sounded awesome, wondered why I didn't go for one then remembered the £555 yearly tax & ridiculous mpg.
Repaired some curb rash to a wheel & buffed out a paint scrap on the drivers rear corner that some really thoughtful Muppet left .....
Came across a 3.2 quattro cab yesterday, my god it sounded awesome, wondered why I didn't go for one then remembered the £555 yearly tax & ridiculous mpg.
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2016
- Messages
- 2,056
- Reaction score
- 734
- Points
- 113
Removed the wiper arms to paint them as all the paint had come off the alloy part and it looked terrible.
Replaced lower arm, after I broke it when changing bearing and hub...
Wondering if it’s meant to be this “loose”
It’s torqued down.
I know it’s only held by that metal cylinder, and has a rubber bushing around..
“Old” arm inner bushing
Wondering if it’s meant to be this “loose”
It’s torqued down.
I know it’s only held by that metal cylinder, and has a rubber bushing around..
“Old” arm inner bushing
SemedoB6
Black and white a4
I would assume they have to have some play for when you go over bumps and all that..
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2016
- Messages
- 2,056
- Reaction score
- 734
- Points
- 113
No it shouldn't be that loose.Replaced lower arm, after I broke it when changing bearing and hub...
Wondering if it’s meant to be this “loose”
It’s torqued down.
I know it’s only held by that metal cylinder, and has a rubber bushing around..
“Old” arm inner bushing
Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
Replaced lower arm, after I broke it when changing bearing and hub...
Wondering if it’s meant to be this “loose”
It’s torqued down.
I know it’s only held by that metal cylinder, and has a rubber bushing around..
“Old” arm inner bushing
They seem to be ok. There will most likely be creases, but as long as there isn’t any splits then its all good.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The one fitted today is new, the one being replaced is about a half year old..
So both “new”
I’m hunting for reasons why the steering wheel has slight judder when braking and hitting 80 kph and down to 50 kph
So both “new”
I’m hunting for reasons why the steering wheel has slight judder when braking and hitting 80 kph and down to 50 kph
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2016
- Messages
- 2,056
- Reaction score
- 734
- Points
- 113
It looks to me as if the chassis mount point where the control arm fits in have been spread apart, leaving extra play, the rubber bush should take up the play but there should be no movement between the metal sleeve and the chassis mount point.
Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
I changed the broken rear ABS ring (quattro) and Camber Bolts - after buying the front rings to check if they work on the back - yes they do!
There are no mentions anywhere I could find on ANY search engine on whether the REAR rings can be changed.
Even the Audi main dealer with the might of the parts & service departments couldn't answer the question. They merely want to sell a complete driveshaft assembly to you. The ring is NOT shown on their system as a seperate part. BUT it is actually the same as the front ones - which are readily available!
Anyway, here's a few pics to show how I did it.
I had to cut the old Camber bolts with a saw blade down either side of the rubber mount (there is actually room to get at it with a hack saw if you're careful & use just the right angle. However, still had to burn out the rubber & then batter the mount casing out of the arm......
These are the new Bushes, The New Camber bolt & bush with remnants of the old bits & the Bolt marked up so it starts in the same place as the old one.
A combination of long bolt, thick washers & appropriately sized sockets used to pull the new bush into place on the arm
Broken Ring, New Replacement - Ring needs to be heated to go on easily.
ABS ring in place, Just reassembly of hub with new camber bolt required.
End result - no ABS warning light & brake system fully functioning again.
Dead chuffed.........
There are no mentions anywhere I could find on ANY search engine on whether the REAR rings can be changed.
Even the Audi main dealer with the might of the parts & service departments couldn't answer the question. They merely want to sell a complete driveshaft assembly to you. The ring is NOT shown on their system as a seperate part. BUT it is actually the same as the front ones - which are readily available!
Anyway, here's a few pics to show how I did it.
I had to cut the old Camber bolts with a saw blade down either side of the rubber mount (there is actually room to get at it with a hack saw if you're careful & use just the right angle. However, still had to burn out the rubber & then batter the mount casing out of the arm......
Broken Ring, New Replacement - Ring needs to be heated to go on easily.
ABS ring in place, Just reassembly of hub with new camber bolt required.
End result - no ABS warning light & brake system fully functioning again.
Dead chuffed.........
I agree with quattrocalum, The lower suspension arm bushes rely on their inners being firmly clamped so they can't move - the rubber does the 'twisting' required for the suspension control. Are you sure the bolt is properly tight?
It sits tight, and I can’t generate any movement when it’s reassembled
I tried to hammer one side in, as I thought, like mentioned, that it had been spread a part.. didn’t help.. Perhaps I didn’t do it enough
Steering judder - its always difficult to pinpoint a cause, it may be as simple as wheel balance but is likely caused by a weak/broken/worn suspension bush/ball joint or track rod end.
The suspension arms on VAG vehicles are all supposed to operate from a 'fixed point' which is where all the bushes should be tightened up.
This is generally where the vehicles weight is fully on its wheels - assembly instructions always refer to leaving all bolts slightly loose until the weight of the car is back on the wheels, which is when the final torquing up should be done.
The top arms are the only exception & should be mounted onto the top mounts at a specific angle and then torqued up before reassembling onto car. This is because you can't get to the bolts once the top mounts are in place. These are the only bushes that need to be tightened up fully before assembly.
If the bushes are tightened in the 'wrong place' (i.e with suspension hanging or partially jacked up) then the bushes cannot do their job properly & indeed may fail prematurely as they are flexed too much whilst the car is moving.
If a joint is left loose (as one of yours appears to be) then the bush has no effect at all as it merely rotates on the bolt without any resistance. The lower arms should be an 'interference fit' into their mounts - indeed gentle tapping may be required to get them into position.
It is normal for the steerings arms to 'droop' when uncoupled from the uprights - pull them back & fore a bit - there shouldn't be any noticable movement apparent & the ball joints should be fairly stiff to move as any play can lead to wheel judder.
The suspension arms on VAG vehicles are all supposed to operate from a 'fixed point' which is where all the bushes should be tightened up.
This is generally where the vehicles weight is fully on its wheels - assembly instructions always refer to leaving all bolts slightly loose until the weight of the car is back on the wheels, which is when the final torquing up should be done.
The top arms are the only exception & should be mounted onto the top mounts at a specific angle and then torqued up before reassembling onto car. This is because you can't get to the bolts once the top mounts are in place. These are the only bushes that need to be tightened up fully before assembly.
If the bushes are tightened in the 'wrong place' (i.e with suspension hanging or partially jacked up) then the bushes cannot do their job properly & indeed may fail prematurely as they are flexed too much whilst the car is moving.
If a joint is left loose (as one of yours appears to be) then the bush has no effect at all as it merely rotates on the bolt without any resistance. The lower arms should be an 'interference fit' into their mounts - indeed gentle tapping may be required to get them into position.
It is normal for the steerings arms to 'droop' when uncoupled from the uprights - pull them back & fore a bit - there shouldn't be any noticable movement apparent & the ball joints should be fairly stiff to move as any play can lead to wheel judder.
Last edited:
.
Took it to the garage today.
He couldn’t use his lathe on my discs.. couldn’t reach.. I saw the machine, it was old school and from back in the day when discs sat behind the bearing..
I’m taking the discs to a new garage that handles them off the car...
They both have runout at 7/100mm, so a big reason why they shake... measured at the garage
Still, they are new ATE discs fitted January..
He couldn’t use his lathe on my discs.. couldn’t reach.. I saw the machine, it was old school and from back in the day when discs sat behind the bearing..
I’m taking the discs to a new garage that handles them off the car...
They both have runout at 7/100mm, so a big reason why they shake... measured at the garage
Still, they are new ATE discs fitted January..
