What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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Certainly is mate. Well worth the investment.
Really tempted to change to a set up like yours once the new turbo is on though. Just think it would suit the set up better
Really tempted to change to a set up like yours once the new turbo is on though. Just think it would suit the set up better
Ash_mtb
Registered User
What are you doing tuning wise once the hybrids on bud?Oil and filter change with Millers Nanodrive 5w 40. Also emptied the catch can. So glad I put one on, would recommend everyone fits one!
Hopefully get the hybrid and HFC on tomorrow
Once the turbo is on I’ll prob take the car to my local mapper, Avon Tuning, and get a quick map on it to get it running right. Then once all the rest of the mods are on I’ll take it to Devil Developments as they do all the R&D for Beach Buggy Turbos
Ash_mtb
Registered User
Good stuff bud, so its safe enough to run and drive to the tuners then. If i swap my turbo to something abit better (prob just a k04) id have to make a journey to get it set up
Yeah should be fine to drive as long as you don’t rag it. Keep it off boost as much as poss.
I won’t be driving mine till I get the rest of the mods on now though. Will sit on the drive. Going down to Devon for a week with the family next week but will working on it again when I get back
I won’t be driving mine till I get the rest of the mods on now though. Will sit on the drive. Going down to Devon for a week with the family next week but will working on it again when I get back
Sooooo........finished work early today and couldn't resist. Took the car out for a quick blast now the new turbo and HFC are on and it feels SO much quicker, even without a remap! Still got new intercoolers, S3 injectors and a milltek to go on yet 
crap pic I took once we got turbo/HFC on. Was an absolute nightmare!
Ash_mtb
Registered User
@Just Rob. It is well worth the hassle mate. Couldn’t get the smile off my face yesterday!
You planning anymore mods for yours?
@Ash_mtb - Do it, you know it makes sense
You planning anymore mods for yours?
@Ash_mtb - Do it, you know it makes sense
@Just Rob. It is well worth the hassle mate. Couldn’t get the smile off my face yesterday!
You planning anymore mods for yours?
@Ash_mtb - Do it, you know it makes sense
I had drawn a line under any more engine mods to be honest , but, I maywell have changed my mind again...something I do a lot these days..lol
May lookout for another used BUL engine and make that a project , make it something really special , I did go down this route awhile ago when I picked up a spare BUL lump but then sold it as I didn't have the time to do any more projects.....not sure that's changed really but part of me says just do it so I may just do that...450-500bhp sounds like a nice project...
Ash_mtb
Registered User
I might just recore the k03 untill ive got some free cash, its pretty dead atm! Ur cars gona be rapid mate, it just just needs some rods n the boost can go up@Just Rob. It is well worth the hassle mate. Couldn’t get the smile off my face yesterday!
You planning anymore mods for yours?
@Ash_mtb - Do it, you know it makes sense
Just rob- havin a spare engines the best route, less down time and the original matching numbers blocks nice and safe for when the inevitable happens haha. You should do it bud 400+hp of big turbo fun. These quattro cars need big power
I think if I did go back to this plan i'd be looking to get as close to 500bhp as I could , and the bonus of using a donor engine is that it can be built-up fresh from the ground up, no half measures ...but may mean a very light wallet in the process...lol , but hey, well worth the effort.
Now how much are donor organs worth these days....I have a few bits I don't need..lol
Now how much are donor organs worth these days....I have a few bits I don't need..lol
looks very smart, but then its pioneer so allways going to be nice kit, does it work ok chap.
Benny B0Y
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Cheers @Just Rob. Yep all working good now, I had a little teething issue at first. I purchased the connects 2 kit which comes with everything to make it ‘ plug and play ‘ but that never works out 
They say the devil makes work for idle hands...
So that takes the work done over the last couple of weeks to...
Engine out.
DMF and Clutch
Cambelt
Water pump
Thermostat
FMIC
Heat wrapped de-cat pipe (massive difference!)
Fuel filter
Coil Packs
Plugs
Cam follower
PCV
Oil and Filter
Custom designed and fabricated Cold Air box
Oh, and a forge DV spacer.... Does sound good thou!
And please don't take the ****... My original problem of the vibration/drone turned out to be the miltek front mounting Bush was knackered! Glad I've done it all now thou.
So that takes the work done over the last couple of weeks to...
Engine out.
DMF and Clutch
Cambelt
Water pump
Thermostat
FMIC
Heat wrapped de-cat pipe (massive difference!)
Fuel filter
Coil Packs
Plugs
Cam follower
PCV
Oil and Filter
Custom designed and fabricated Cold Air box
Oh, and a forge DV spacer.... Does sound good thou!
And please don't take the ****... My original problem of the vibration/drone turned out to be the miltek front mounting Bush was knackered! Glad I've done it all now thou.
The air intake seems very effective to be fair, and not including the filter came in at under £40.
Originally I was going to make the lid out of carbon fibre, and now I know it's effective and looks okay, I probably will do at some point, but the carbon sheet in that size was coming in at £80.
It's made using 1mm sheet steel from b&q £25 and a length of 2mm aluminium angle £8. I removed the rubber weather strips from the left side and top of the engine bay then laid the length of aluminium angle from the back of the bulkhead to the front slam panel to get the bonnet shut line.
Next up made a cardboard template from the original rubber airbox mounting points to just below the aluminium angle (allowing space for the lid and bonnet to shut. Also at this point marked the hole for the std turbo to MAF pipe, this pipe was handy as it's got some flexibility for positioning. I used a 3 1/4" hole saw and cut and smoothed the edges out.
Next up transfer all this over to the sheet steel and cut out and tidy up. Take your aluminium angle and cut two pieces the same length as the top and bottom of the plate. Drill and fix both of these flush with the top and bottom of the plate. I used M6 x 12mm bolts, but pop rivets would be neater here.
Mark up the holes on the bottom plate that line up with the STD airbox holes. I used two M8 x 20mm stainless bolts with a nut on the back to make pegs to fit into the holes. This plate will need covering in some sort of sticky back heat shield. I got some off ebay from a motorbike supplier for £10 that's rated to 600c. I also used some sticky back foam across the top that I had laying about.
Next up made the template for the lid from cardboard, then transferred it over to the steel and cut it out. 1mm thickness is ideal here as it fits nicely under the lip on the wing and the bulkhead but also allows the STD rubber weather strips to fit back in creating a nice tight seal and also keeps it firmly in place. I chose to wrap mine, but obviously painting is also fine.
There is also a nice cold air feed into the bottom of the box from the front bumper.
A few pics...
Originally I was going to make the lid out of carbon fibre, and now I know it's effective and looks okay, I probably will do at some point, but the carbon sheet in that size was coming in at £80.
It's made using 1mm sheet steel from b&q £25 and a length of 2mm aluminium angle £8. I removed the rubber weather strips from the left side and top of the engine bay then laid the length of aluminium angle from the back of the bulkhead to the front slam panel to get the bonnet shut line.
Next up made a cardboard template from the original rubber airbox mounting points to just below the aluminium angle (allowing space for the lid and bonnet to shut. Also at this point marked the hole for the std turbo to MAF pipe, this pipe was handy as it's got some flexibility for positioning. I used a 3 1/4" hole saw and cut and smoothed the edges out.
Next up transfer all this over to the sheet steel and cut out and tidy up. Take your aluminium angle and cut two pieces the same length as the top and bottom of the plate. Drill and fix both of these flush with the top and bottom of the plate. I used M6 x 12mm bolts, but pop rivets would be neater here.
Mark up the holes on the bottom plate that line up with the STD airbox holes. I used two M8 x 20mm stainless bolts with a nut on the back to make pegs to fit into the holes. This plate will need covering in some sort of sticky back heat shield. I got some off ebay from a motorbike supplier for £10 that's rated to 600c. I also used some sticky back foam across the top that I had laying about.
Next up made the template for the lid from cardboard, then transferred it over to the steel and cut it out. 1mm thickness is ideal here as it fits nicely under the lip on the wing and the bulkhead but also allows the STD rubber weather strips to fit back in creating a nice tight seal and also keeps it firmly in place. I chose to wrap mine, but obviously painting is also fine.
There is also a nice cold air feed into the bottom of the box from the front bumper.
A few pics...
This week I did a few things.
Addressed a coolant leak that was coming from the thermostat so I swapped that out.
Changed my oil level sensor.
Swapped my front brakes out for EBC yellow stuff and cut off the brake sensor lines so I could stop getting the sensor warnings.
Finally installed my Walbro LPFP that I purchased from JHM. Take note that I’m FWD and for whatever reason the bracket does not fit the pump right. I had to dremel out a big portion of the bracket to make sure everything fit fine.
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Addressed a coolant leak that was coming from the thermostat so I swapped that out.
Changed my oil level sensor.
Swapped my front brakes out for EBC yellow stuff and cut off the brake sensor lines so I could stop getting the sensor warnings.
Finally installed my Walbro LPFP that I purchased from JHM. Take note that I’m FWD and for whatever reason the bracket does not fit the pump right. I had to dremel out a big portion of the bracket to make sure everything fit fine.
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I managed to fit my cruise control this afternoon and made a tidy job of trimming the cowl too. Just need it coding when all the other retro fits are in!
Put the Rotiforms back on after about a year and some change if not running them due to some curbing I had done. Really love the way these look.
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LawrenceH
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They look great but I bet they’re a pig to clean
Is that mildenhall?
Yes and yes. I hate cleaning them. The worst part of owning them is trying to get them and keep them clean.
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At the weekend I did a few jobs:
Fitted new Front Droplinks (the old ones bushes were cracking up)
Then I fitted my new undertrays (they were missing when I got the car) :
And finally, because I have the replacement badges already, mucked about on the computer & mocked up a different front end for the car:
Fitted new Front Droplinks (the old ones bushes were cracking up)
Then I fitted my new undertrays (they were missing when I got the car) :
And finally, because I have the replacement badges already, mucked about on the computer & mocked up a different front end for the car:
Got my duckbill in today from ECS. I am non-sline and it fit perfectly on my trunk.
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I want to say Relaks but I’m not 100% sure. It was a group but I jumped on a few years ago. The company I bought from stop making them so it might be the Relaks. I’m getting ready to take them off once my carbon fiber ones come in.
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If you decide to sell them when your knew ones come in I may take them off you mate
I’ll let you know and take some close up pics. There’s one or two spots where my jack cracked the skirts. No one else notices them but I know where they are and can spot them right away. May not be something you’d want either.
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Thanks. It’s funny you say that because in the US we all drool over the long European plate and trunk that goes with it. But it doesn’t look right with the style plates we have.
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