What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
Coded my cruise cruise control and the Trip computer in today with a snap on machine. Followed a video off YouTube which worked a treat
My EML light had been on for a while, VCDS showed it as "intake manifold flap low voltage".
I changed my intake manifold to a flapless one earlier in the year and removed all my vacuum hoses. Only the electrical connectors to the solenoids remain.
Removed the connectors, sprayed in a bit of electrical lube spray and deleted the light with a hand held scanner.
So far the EML hasn't returned.
I changed my intake manifold to a flapless one earlier in the year and removed all my vacuum hoses. Only the electrical connectors to the solenoids remain.
Removed the connectors, sprayed in a bit of electrical lube spray and deleted the light with a hand held scanner.
So far the EML hasn't returned.
Hey Guys,
It's been a while since I have been on here. Was toiling with looking at getting a A4 B8 Avant 2.0 TFSi Quattro Dynamik, saw two but they didn't tick the boxes for me, so decided to stay with the B7 TFSI 2.0 Quattro Avant (BUL Engine) for now, however, I do love the kit that comes with the Dynamik.
So, I'd recently got a brand new full resonated Milltek exhaust system for a very good price end of line & the last one with this company. I was always on the look out for a Non Resonated but the prices on them right now are just out of my reach.
I could not pass it up and I thought, forget the Non Resonated one. I have to admit, there is a definite difference acceleration though the gears and I love it, even if it's relatively quiet and looks the part in my opinion.
Had the car since Sept 2017 and I've only added a TT flat bottom steering wheel, coin tray and now the Milltek exhaust.
I have on order H&R Anti Roll bar kit, 32mm front and 22mm rear, so will be selling my current Sline genuine ARB, 32mm front and 18mm rear at some point on the classifieds here, so keep an eye out for those.
So these are today's pics of the exhaust being fitted.
** On a side note, anyone know of a decent company out there who can fully refurbish (not just paint) some 18z calipers?
Pic attached, Thx in advance!
It's been a while since I have been on here. Was toiling with looking at getting a A4 B8 Avant 2.0 TFSi Quattro Dynamik, saw two but they didn't tick the boxes for me, so decided to stay with the B7 TFSI 2.0 Quattro Avant (BUL Engine) for now, however, I do love the kit that comes with the Dynamik.
So, I'd recently got a brand new full resonated Milltek exhaust system for a very good price end of line & the last one with this company. I was always on the look out for a Non Resonated but the prices on them right now are just out of my reach.
I could not pass it up and I thought, forget the Non Resonated one. I have to admit, there is a definite difference acceleration though the gears and I love it, even if it's relatively quiet and looks the part in my opinion.
Had the car since Sept 2017 and I've only added a TT flat bottom steering wheel, coin tray and now the Milltek exhaust.
I have on order H&R Anti Roll bar kit, 32mm front and 22mm rear, so will be selling my current Sline genuine ARB, 32mm front and 18mm rear at some point on the classifieds here, so keep an eye out for those.
So these are today's pics of the exhaust being fitted.
** On a side note, anyone know of a decent company out there who can fully refurbish (not just paint) some 18z calipers?
Pic attached, Thx in advance!
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18z's are not hard to refurb, save yourself a heap of cash and do them yourself.
Seal kits are not expensive and are easy to replace, calipers don't have to be powder coated as a careful wet paint can be just as good.
There are a lot of sellers out there just buying up cheap 18z's , just painting them as is , some don't even remove the pads ...
and then sell them on as refurbed for £450 and beyond....cheap profiteers again.
yours look very serviceable so why not give it a go.
Seal kits are not expensive and are easy to replace, calipers don't have to be powder coated as a careful wet paint can be just as good.
There are a lot of sellers out there just buying up cheap 18z's , just painting them as is , some don't even remove the pads ...
and then sell them on as refurbed for £450 and beyond....cheap profiteers again.yours look very serviceable so why not give it a go.
Morning Rob,18z's are not hard to refurb, save yourself a heap of cash and do them yourself.
Seal kits are not expensive and are easy to replace, calipers don't have to be powder coated as a careful wet paint can be just as good.
There are a lot of sellers out there just buying up cheap 18z's , just painting them as is , some don't even remove the pads ...
yours look very serviceable so why not give it a go.
I would not have a clue how to replace the seals.
Would it be just a seal kit I'd need?
The seller I got the Calipers off, said they were in working order, however, i'd like to make sure it's all done properly before any use as i don't know its full history.
Cheers
To be safe as you dont know any history on the calipers, you'd need a piston seal and dustcover kit assuming pistons are ok which most normally are unless the calipers have been abused.
Link pipes are normally ok if they are removed careful same with bleed valves but i always replace the bleed valves as they are not expensive.
Link pipes are normally ok if they are removed careful same with bleed valves but i always replace the bleed valves as they are not expensive.
I think the condition of those alloys is letting the side down Alex, they need sorting out chap.
And that’s standard Alex, any spacers? Brilliant if not, I’m not a spacers kind of guy. But I’ve always liked the idea of running 18Z’s.
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Can't argue with that one Rob, its on the to-do list, hopefully later in the year with the respray!
Im running 10mm H&R spacers on the front, 15mm on the rear. More for aesthetics than functionality but allows room for the brembos. You could possibly drop a few mm however, i would have to check
R8 fronts. 8.5j x 19" ET42
you'd need 4 fronts to fit on a B7 as the R8 rears are just way to wide and offset is too much.
Gave up trying to buy Porsche lobster claws for that reason ..loads of rears available,you’d have to buy 2 sets and end up with 4 10j that no one wants
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Do you meet your dealer in shady parts of the neighbourhood in the early hours of the morning to score your next hit to feed your alloy addiction Rob?
I actually think crack would be cheeper for you…
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lol...
I just love my old bus so it gets the goodies .
buy some b7 bits and sell other b7 bits, it all works out in the end.
I just love my old bus so it gets the goodies .
buy some b7 bits and sell other b7 bits, it all works out in the end.
Don’t worry mate, we’ll all have a whip round for your ‘alloy wheel anonymous’ fundraiser…
“Hi my names Rob, and I’m addicted to alloy wheels”
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“Hi my names Rob, and I’m addicted to alloy wheels”
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I know, sad really but I just like my alloys..lol, keeps me busy though.
I'm probably offering a really usefull service, my experimentation with alloys on my B7 saves others making the same mistakes with rims that don't or won't fit or in the wrong colour. 
Now how can I charge you lot..lol
Now how can I charge you lot..lol
Not everyone’s cup of tea and it wasn’t mine but I took the plunge and had my mtms powder coated black
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They look better black 
, and your b7 is a more charcoal colour than really dark black, so there is contrast,if they were on my brilliant black bus they would be lost and look worse.
, and your b7 is a more charcoal colour than really dark black, so there is contrast,if they were on my brilliant black bus they would be lost and look worse.
They look better black
I think so rob lz7l lava grey I believe without looking in the service book ,the mtms in grey were a bit bland against the car’s colour
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They look almost identical to the ones I have on my jalopy just now Rob? These are 18's - presume yours are 19's ?
I was told they were for an A5 & had to use 5mm spacers all round to clear (front) calipers & even that's only by about the thickness of a couple sheets of paper....... I also need new centre caps. Never ends does it......
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Swore at it, a lot.
Tried to put stainless braided brake hoses on the rear, to match my fronts.
No go. Why do they make the original hoses with gust metal ferrule ends and no but section to get a spanner on? The replacement braided ones are finished properly so they can be fully tightened up.
Inevitably the nut in the end of the brake pipe is seized in the hose end and with nothing really to get a grip on, except with mole grips this is was never going to work.
Anyone ever had any success in removing the old hoses at this age of car?
Tried to put stainless braided brake hoses on the rear, to match my fronts.
No go. Why do they make the original hoses with gust metal ferrule ends and no but section to get a spanner on? The replacement braided ones are finished properly so they can be fully tightened up.
Inevitably the nut in the end of the brake pipe is seized in the hose end and with nothing really to get a grip on, except with mole grips this is was never going to work.
Anyone ever had any success in removing the old hoses at this age of car?
I use a very small gas torch to heat the fitting up and burn back some of the plastic coating off the pipe, works a treat everytime.
Just take it easy and don't try too much brute force, it's one of those jobs that requires some patients or you'll end up damaging more than just the hose.
I appear to have lost interest in my old bus at the moment, same with the TT so nothing new done here.
