What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

Another day and still no further with a del date on the new alloys.
After I had a moan at them yesterday they called me this afternoon offering me some substitute rims to try, not oz's though.
So they maintain i will get them tommorow ( theres hoping) and if i don't like them they will arrange collection at no cost, might aswell see how they look as they will be going back on monday if I'm not impressed in the flesh on the car.

these, i'm not sure to be honest, not really B7 style.
Vs1
 
Maybe well suited to newer models etc, not sure the angular looks are in keeping with the more softer lines of the B7 .

would be great on a new RS3 .
 
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Well all done. I said I'd report back - hate it when people on forums don't. I'm very pleased and they did a brilliant job BUT oh my did it cost! Not the pump but the cambelt had been stuffed in the past (this I know is genuine) and they had to helicoil the tensioner bolt amongst others. I daren't tell you but I spent more than the car is ever worth now, haha. But for that it has a bullet proof engine and gearbox now (at least for the next 70K, hopefully well beyond. The most amazing thing is, as I suspected, being a bog standard repmobile version of the B7, it had the original 77mm hex key, and after 232K it is not badly worn at all - there was still a good few thousand left on it. I know in 60K I have cherished this car but the past owners must have done so too. There are very few people now who would spend this on such an old car and I had to dip into savings for this one but for me it's worth it, and it won't see a scrap yard any time soon, which makes me irrationally happy - YMMV.View attachment 256961View attachment 256962View attachment 256963View attachment 256964View attachment 256965

Sorry if revisiting this isnt the accepted etiquette but I reckon you’ve dodged a bullet there ,this is mine at 108k ,audi specialist said it doesn’t take much more wear to let go ,although I accept he probably would say that after emptying my wallet
IMG 1441



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Sorry about all the duplicate posts ,haven’t been here for a while as I was having issues with the site/app ,seems I still do


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Sorry if revisiting this isnt the accepted etiquette but I reckon you’ve dodged a bullet there ,this is mine at 108k ,audi specialist said it doesn’t take much more wear to let go ,although I accept he probably would say that after emptying my wallet View attachment 257542


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just a plain old section of hex steel, not one of audis better designs.

agreed it looks at the point of just rounding off.
 
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Did they just replace the key or did you get the replacement shaft also?

If just replaced the key then it's simple job

Here's a good video showing it done

 
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Sorry if revisiting this isnt the accepted etiquette but I reckon you’ve dodged a bullet there ,this is mine at 108k ,audi specialist said it doesn’t take much more wear to let go ,although I accept he probably would say that after emptying my wallet
Agreed but mine was at 232K on the original 77mm hex key. Yours looks a bit worse than mine. Mine was still quite tight in the keyway. And yes it's best to do both the new key and balance shaft. The KMB kit, I had fitted, is both hardened and more accurately machined. It's pulling like a train now and I've put about a further 1500 miles (high speed motorway) on it, so all good, it seems. But that may be more the new cambelt and full service I am noticing. BTW they supplied a new revised dipstick for the 100mm hex key modification too. Make sure whoever does it also, is aware of/has the correct tool for the balance shaft timing too, as KMB no longer seem to sell it.
 
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Alloys arrived this morning which did surprise me.
But they don't fit which didn't surprise me, from previous experience i have a good idea what will and won't fit my old bus

don't clear the calliper as usual.

IMG 5457
IMG 5459
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Agreed but mine was at 232K on the original 77mm hex key. Yours looks a bit worse than mine. Mine was still quite tight in the keyway. And yes it's best to do both the new key and balance shaft. The KMB kit, I had fitted, is both hardened and more accurately machined. It's pulling like a train now and I've put about a further 1500 miles (high speed motorway) on it, so all good, it seems. But that may be more the new cambelt and full service I am noticing. BTW they supplied a new revised dipstick for the 100mm hex key modification too. Make sure whoever does it also, is aware of/has the correct tool for the balance shaft timing too, as KMB no longer seem to sell it.

I never received this revised dipstick when I purchased the kit from them. What is the difference between the factory one I'm using, and the revised one? I presume they read MIN and MAX at the same levels? Worried that mine may be over / under reading now you've mentioned the revised one.
 
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Personally think yours is worse ,but for 124k more you’ve not done bad at all ,think the shaft is as important as the key to get done
Don’t have the worry about the dipstick issue as I sold the car 6 months later


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I must admit they look Sharpe, but on ET40 they just won't fit and going to an ET38 won't help as it's the spoke thickness near the centre of the rim that causes the problem, not an issue that effects the OZ's.
They are seriously light aswell.:icon thumright:
 
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a58da7bf5ff89328ffee260d4b84b0ec.jpg

Personally think yours is worse ,but for 124k more you’ve not done bad at all ,think the shaft is as important as the key to get done
Don’t have the worry about the dipstick issue as I sold the car 6 months later


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What was the dipstick issue? Never heard of it before, and it's been mentioned twice on here today. Is it something I need to worry about on my 140? It's still on the original dipstick. If there's a revised part that ought to be fitted I will get it.
 
What was the dipstick issue? Never heard of it before, and it's been mentioned twice on here today. Is it something I need to worry about on my 140? It's still on the original dipstick. If there's a revised part that ought to be fitted I will get it.

Don’t know ,first I heard was when [mention]B7 tourer [/mention] mentioned it


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I never received this revised dipstick when I purchased the kit from them. What is the difference between the factory one I'm using, and the revised one? I presume they read MIN and MAX at the same levels? Worried that mine may be over / under reading now you've mentioned the revised one.
I didn't know about this either but they said my dipstick end had been 'eroded' and this dipstick revision was specifically for the 100mm hex key revision. They were very thorough (Straightline Performance, Malvern) so I trust them to this, and it was only £6 extra!
 
I must admit they look Sharpe, but on ET40 they just won't fit and going to an ET38 won't help as it's the spoke thickness near the centre of the rim that causes the problem, not an issue that effects the OZ's.
They are seriously light aswell.:icon thumright:

I think the OZ's look better on the B7, just get the OZ resprayed in your preferred colour :tonguewink:
 
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I would if I had something to fit whilst they were being redone, sadly I don't and the guys I use don't have anything that fits either.
 
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I would if I had something to fit whilst they were being redone, sadly I don't and the guys I use don't have anything that fits either.

Thought of all people you'd have another set of wheels Rob.

Today i amended the rear coilovers i fitted, as when i changed them for the MOT, i didn't put new bottom spring rubber mounts, as you can see which caused the rear to be on its ***.

nfIbkk4.jpg

WdhS0dl.jpg


So pulled the rear springs out, fitted the mounts and put it all back together so that it doesn't scrub when it hits a spec of dust.
Sits nicely, but not too low.

Ri1l3vb.jpg
 
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Thought of all people you'd have another set of wheels Rob.

Today i amended the rear coilovers i fitted, as when i changed them for the MOT, i didn't put new bottom spring rubber mounts, as you can see which caused the rear to be on its ***.

nfIbkk4.jpg

WdhS0dl.jpg


So pulled the rear springs out, fitted the mounts and put it all back together so that it doesn't scrub when it hits a spec of dust.
Sits nicely, but not too low.

Ri1l3vb.jpg
normally i would but ive been offloading kit i rarely use which included alloys wheels .
 
Spent a few hours sorting out a replacement rear tyre.

Picked up a less than ideal friend in my rear nearside tyre late yesterday afternoon.
It was 5.15 before I noticed the tyre was allmost flat, a quick inflate and down to my local chaps to see if they could fit in a repair before the close of work.
luckily they could until they found the source of the leak.
View attachment 257055View attachment 257056

not repairable they informed me, arghhh, the stuff on our roads today is just out of order, that's a fair old chunk of steel jammed in.
they wacked in some more air to get me home as no similar tyres in stock either, what a waste of a good tyre with over 50% tread still left.

Anyway, found my old 19" project rim with a same spec good tyre on it, had them swap over tyres this morning, and problem was solved for a few days at least.
So I'll be needing a new Goodyear eagle F1 now, that's going to cost £130 ish.
Not a good end to the week at all.
Not so good Rob - but I would dispute them saying it's not repairable? As far as I know, if it's in the middle of the tread, it should be possible to fit a plug & patch inside it. :huh:
 
Had some better news on the new alloys front this afternoon.
Delivery time has shortened a lot so hopefully will have them wed next week. :yahoo:

weather i can sell the current OZ's in the current economic climate remains to be seen, if not i'll keep hold of them for another project.

LM's in silver, best colour for a black bus really.

View attachment 256971
Good to see you're going back to the ONLY colour alloys should be Rob! :thumbs up:
 
Well folks, disaster on the wagon front last week - Does this look familiar?

Broken CV Joint 2


Broken CV Joint 1


YES - another front CV joint collapse! Another AA Relay back to the house! This time the drivers side - the same thing happened in May last year at the passenger side.
And then the fun began - pulled it all apart OK, Ordered on line & then went to EuroCarParts to collect a replacement CV joint (30 mile round trip).
Gets it home, offered it up & it didn't fit!
Too close to end of day so phoned them up to be told that I got the last one they had at the branch but they would order in 3 more of different brands for the morning so come back with it to get a replacement.
SO - back next morning (this time with the driveshaft in my hand) - they produced 3 different manufacturer CV joints and (you've guessed it) NONE OF THEM FIT! Right number of teeth (33) but internal diameter 1mm smaller. They scratched their heads, refunded me & suggested trying AutoSave instead.
Off I go, thoroughly P155ed off, another 5 miles to Autosave. They didn't have one in stock but if I waited an hour, could get one in for me.
A bit more than an hour later, they have the part - offered it up, it fits perfectly! Now a happy bunny and off home again to fit the driveshaft back on the car.
After assembly, the shaft was cajoled back into place (it CAN be done without major dismantling with much levering/pushing,wiggling & Copious swearing it into place. Brill - car fixed. :yahoo:
Now you probably think the saga is over?
Nope - car has taken 3 days to fix now but finally successful. The following day I was rummaging around for something else in the garage & find, sitting on a shelf, the exact same correct CV joint in the same box with the same P/No that I had got from Autosave! Golly Gee I said (or something similar).
Thats a WhoopeeDoo then..... :huh:
 
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You seems to be having way too much hassle with those CV joints chap.

Reminds me of the issue i had with the nearside hub end of mine just poping out of the hub completely, very odd.

glad its all sorted now, ECP are just a pain in the backside with parts.

hows the bilsteins?
 
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Hi Rob, I have definitely lost faith in ECP - they were great a few years ago but seem to be going downhill now (and their prices are too high).
Bilsteins on & all Ok though does seem a bit too low at the back. When I get the chance, I'll machine up some 10mm spacers to put under the rear springs. :pride:
 
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10mm lifting spacers sounds like an ideal solution and won't affect the spring rates either.
Do you have a lathe at home then, I have been after one for years but just seem to miss out on the good ones at sensible prices.
 
My rear KW's have settled a bit more recently, i expect they have allmost settled down now, i be winding the height up abit at the weekend .
 
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On the CV subject , i marked my drive shafts R&L before i removed them just in case they got refitted wrong.
 
I'm looking to give the suspension on the barge a full refresh in the not too distant future. However, rather than stiffening it up or lowering it, I'm looking to try to make the ride as comfortable and supple as possible, even if the trade off is a little bit of extra ride height. I really miss the supple suspension of my last car, and if I can get my B7 to half as good as that I'd be chuffed. With that goal in mind, do any of you chaps have any recommendations?
 
Go with SE (not special edition) spec springs and dampers , not audi units of course but suitable aftermarket items rated at similar spec for damping and spring rates .
 
Personal preference comes into play with suspension a fair bit.
Everyone has their own setup of choice which is why it can be a tricky task to recommend something.
 
you don't have to increase ride height to get a decent comfy ride, you can run s-line height still, you just need the right combination of springs and dampers.
I hate a crashy and bumpy ride as well but i also dislike the higher ride heights.
I find my KWs to be spot on and vastly superior to anything else i have tried to date.
Smooth and very comfy and doesn't roll around like a barge, small bumps are just soaked nicely .
But it's that personal preference again, what's good for me may not work for you etc.
And i run 19" rims with lower 35profile tyres that also affect ride quality.

best of luck chap.
 
I'm looking to give the suspension on the barge a full refresh in the not too distant future. However, rather than stiffening it up or lowering it, I'm looking to try to make the ride as comfortable and supple as possible, even if the trade off is a little bit of extra ride height. I really miss the supple suspension of my last car, and if I can get my B7 to half as good as that I'd be chuffed. With that goal in mind, do any of you chaps have any recommendations?

Random lurker post but if you want Bilstein B3 rear springs - OEM specification S-line I have a brand new pair sat in the garage.


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Oh, and Rob, Your new wheels need to be silver. You know it makes sense....... :whistle2:
 
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Well Rob
10mm lifting spacers sounds like an ideal solution and won't affect the spring rates either.
Do you have a lathe at home then, I have been after one for years but just seem to miss out on the good ones at sensible prices.
I haven't got a lathe myself but one of my mates does (a very good one as well as a milling machine, pillar drill etc etc) so I can knock up bits when I need to relatively easily.
 
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