as above what oil and grade do yous yous ave a 1,9 tdi 130bhp 2001 and not sure what oil to get??
what oil do yous use
- Thread starter stevie_g
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I use Elf excellium DID, it is approved by VAG for your application, rather than "meets the manufacturers specifications''. I know the stealer in my neck of the world uses Mobil, and it may be a moot point, but I would rather use what is technically correct rather than near enough.
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tbh its FAR more important that the oil is changed regularly, than it meeting any particular VAG specification.
Any fully synthetic 5w30 changed every 5k will be fine. Super-duper Audi approved oil left in the engine for 20k is NOT fine, regardless of what any dealer tries to tell you.
Our car gets 5w40 synthetic oil from the local factors, and it gets changed every 5k, its usually comma or granville or similar that they stock.
Any fully synthetic 5w30 changed every 5k will be fine. Super-duper Audi approved oil left in the engine for 20k is NOT fine, regardless of what any dealer tries to tell you.
Our car gets 5w40 synthetic oil from the local factors, and it gets changed every 5k, its usually comma or granville or similar that they stock.
aye second that. Just go to a motor factor and get their budget fully synth as Aragorn says - its about £36 a gallon and good, especially when changed regularly enough. Mine is getting very dark after 6k so needs doing again, make sure you get a new sump bolt (audi/vw only) and the correct filter if your doing a change.
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I usually pay about £15 a gallon for the Comma fully synth at my local place, they had it on special for a tenner last time i was in, so i baught two gals. £30-40 gets you mobil1 or similar.
Filter is a few quid.
I've never changed my sump bolt in 25k (5 oil changes) but thats mainly because i cant be ***** driving all the way to the dealer to get one, and it doesnt seem to leak.
jeez I got charged 36 for an own-brand one from Dundee & Angus Motor Factors - I will shop around more but theres not much else to try in Fife, motor factor shops have died completely here.
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drive to livingston then 
Cost you less in fuel than the local place seems to be ripping you off by!
Your profile says fife, but if your using "Dundee and Angus" factors you must be pretty far north in fife?
Cost you less in fuel than the local place seems to be ripping you off by!
Your profile says fife, but if your using "Dundee and Angus" factors you must be pretty far north in fife?
I use Millers xfe-pd specific for the TDi PD 505.01 It's hi-synthetic and I drain every 5k or 6 months too.
PetrolDave
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I use Castrol Edge 5W/30, but not sure that has the correct detergent mix to use in a TDi. When I had a TDi 130 PD I used to use Mobil 1 Turbo-Diesel version.
It depends also whether your car is on long life servicing, as the oil for that is more expensive, I got mine from the dealer as they checked the service computer to see whether my car should be on long life. The oil wasnt cheap cant remember how much exactly, and also, they dont recommend standard fully synthetic TD oil as the PD (130) engine has special requirements. I think the PD engine has injection pumps on each injector and I think there is an oil feed to these
longlife servicing is a pile of bull and should be avoided mate, leaving oil in that long looks like economy but its not if the use of the car means it should have regular servicing, after all the dealer computer doesnt know how you drive the car or what abuse it is subjected to or the length of journeys / warm up time etc.
Even the best Oil, changed every 6k is cheaper than a new engine or turbo and oil pump and head....thats why the sludging and blowing up of these engines started, because of longlife service intervals. After all if you change the oil every 6k, you will only buy it twice or 3 times a year amounting to under £100, and that wouldnt buy you a gasket set.
Even the best Oil, changed every 6k is cheaper than a new engine or turbo and oil pump and head....thats why the sludging and blowing up of these engines started, because of longlife service intervals. After all if you change the oil every 6k, you will only buy it twice or 3 times a year amounting to under £100, and that wouldnt buy you a gasket set.
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Aye. And imo, i'd rather have some £15 a gallon fully synthetic oil in there and changed every 5k than spending stupid money for audi to fill it with their "special long life oil" (which is just fully synth 5w30, and even the £15 stuff you buy will meet the VW standards for it) and leaving it in the motor for 20k miles.
My last two cars before the 307 disaster..both Pug Turbo D's were run on halfords semi synthetic for a huge amount of hard miles with 6 monthly changes. Now im sure I will open a can of worms with the Audi is a more complex engine etc etc but I never had a spot of bother with any of my engines and will be using the Halfords brand full syth for my Audi, with regular changes
I use Quantum Synta Gold fully synthetic in my 2.5tdi and change it every 5k with a Wynns flush each time. Mind you I did manage to get 7 25l drums of the stuff for £40 a drum.
Regardless, you can't beat regular changes whatever type you use. I've also got a Wallminster drain tap insted of removing the sump plug. Just whats needed for regular changes, so much cleaner.
Regardless, you can't beat regular changes whatever type you use. I've also got a Wallminster drain tap insted of removing the sump plug. Just whats needed for regular changes, so much cleaner.
Whats a "Wallminster drain tap"? I mean I can kind of guess, does it replace the sump plug totally? Where can I get one? Sounds ideal!
Thats right James it screws into your sump plug hole, replacing it completely. It has a small sprung lever that turns 90 degrees (ideal for tight space). On mine I 've got a short length of hose, and a hole drilled in the belly plate so you don't need to remove it either. Absolutely brilliant bit of kit, I've fitted one on every car I've had.
As far as I know they are only available by mail order, cost about £25, but well worth it. Can give you the phone number if you want it. From a place in London that only accept cheques and served by a very posh bird called Phillipa!!
As far as I know they are only available by mail order, cost about £25, but well worth it. Can give you the phone number if you want it. From a place in London that only accept cheques and served by a very posh bird called Phillipa!!
check out this thread on sludging:
http://www.myvwlemon.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000532.html
Its like I said about not using mineral oils when garages dont seem to know this and use it anyway unknown to you...
http://www.myvwlemon.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000532.html
Its like I said about not using mineral oils when garages dont seem to know this and use it anyway unknown to you...
Finally getting my Jabba work done this friday, so due to extra load of drive chain and internals is it worth changing the oil too?
I am supposed to be on long life servicing.
When i bought the car in early Dec the previous owner was doing about 20k a year and had a FSH from his local Audi dealership. Seven stamps in book at currently on 106k. Service indicator says 600 days or 12k till next service. So as i do only half the previous chaps mileage shall i change from long life to bi annual oil change etc?
I am supposed to be on long life servicing.
When i bought the car in early Dec the previous owner was doing about 20k a year and had a FSH from his local Audi dealership. Seven stamps in book at currently on 106k. Service indicator says 600 days or 12k till next service. So as i do only half the previous chaps mileage shall i change from long life to bi annual oil change etc?
As we've said in the thread, the more regularly you change oil the better. It is the life blood of your engine, and far cheaper than having repairs that are avoidable.
Forget long life servicing, it won't save any money in the long run.
Forget long life servicing, it won't save any money in the long run.
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You can stick to audis service schedule as far as the book goes, just get the oil changed every 5k as well.
Ie do the full service every 20k, then every 5k between the services you do a simple oil and filter change.
Ie do the full service every 20k, then every 5k between the services you do a simple oil and filter change.
PetrolDave
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AndyMac
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I now use Fuchs, from GSF, less than half the price of Mobil/Castrol etc and just change it every 6k. Our TDi 130 was on longlife services when we bought it at 115k miles, and I'm sure the reason the turbo had to be replaced at 150k. From then on I've serviced it myself and couldn't believe the state of the super special longlife oil that came out of it (eventually) the first time I did it. It was literally like thick black gloss paint. Longlife services are just the dealers way to ensure you don't get galactic mileage from their cars and have to come back for a new one every 5 years. It is total ********!
I took a bit of time last night to rumage through the huge pile of invoices that came with my car. I came accross one from an independant that had done one of the services for the previous owner, a bit odd since the rest were Audi, ...he had listed the oil as 10w40. Ive had a look about and it looks like that is a semi synthetic oil! might explain why a while later audi had the car to fit a new oil pump!
I bet this happens a lot to the unsuspecting none the wiser punter
I bet this happens a lot to the unsuspecting none the wiser punter
yup my supplying dealer did a service before I picked the car up, 3k later it started rattling, the oil was like thick black treacle. He used ordinary mineral oil.
I caught it just in time as its done 6k on the synth I put in, but the cam chain is noisy when cold since that day and im gonna have to have the cam cover off and see if there is extensive goo burnt onto the top end now, would explain poor oil feed to the chain and cams......
I caught it just in time as its done 6k on the synth I put in, but the cam chain is noisy when cold since that day and im gonna have to have the cam cover off and see if there is extensive goo burnt onto the top end now, would explain poor oil feed to the chain and cams......
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Ours met a similar fate, when we baught it i didnt really know much about the engines foibles and it had done about 10k on the oil that was in it, which looking at the receipts was some cheapy 10w40 semi-synth. Was like warm treacle coming out. I filled the motor with flushing oil and ran it on that for 10mins then drained and it too was jet black.
Since then its done around 25k with regular changes every 5k, but i can tell something in there has suffered because the cam chain rattles constantly, and if the oil level is below around half way and the motor is left idling when warm it starts to lose oil pressure and the lifters start clattering.
It could probably do with a new oil pump and a new cam chain tensioner, but its rolling on 180k miles, so i'm leaning towards just ignoring it, keeping the oil topped up to stop it losing pressure and hoping it continues to rattle on for another 20k.
Since then its done around 25k with regular changes every 5k, but i can tell something in there has suffered because the cam chain rattles constantly, and if the oil level is below around half way and the motor is left idling when warm it starts to lose oil pressure and the lifters start clattering.
It could probably do with a new oil pump and a new cam chain tensioner, but its rolling on 180k miles, so i'm leaning towards just ignoring it, keeping the oil topped up to stop it losing pressure and hoping it continues to rattle on for another 20k.
