wheel refurb help.. advice needed

[Kev Boy]

Hi all.

Can someone help me with refurb advice please. I did search but couldn't find the answers. If there are threads previously that u could link that would be very helpful too.

I have just bought a straight but rough set of genuine RS4s. They have bubbling etc which is easy enough but one has a kerb rash which I'm unsure on how to repair.

I returned my ronals myself and they turned out good but were just an awful colour with no damage but these are a new area for me.

What should I rub them down with? I just scotchbrited and the applied the paint to them.

Any help on what I should do would be great.

Kev.

 

[WOLF]

Pictures would be a help of the rash mate,depends how deep or bad it is.If its deep I'd file it first then sand it.

 

[Kev Boy]

The rest will just sand but this is the kerbed one:

On the left hand side.

Other tips like what to use to sand the blistering off etc would be good too. I've done a lot of painting but mainly just my guitars. Not a clue on metal though...

My ronals were easy. Just key the surface and I'm away with the paint. These are a different case.

Also just so you know they are filthy. So showing more marks than what is really there. Very uncared for...

Cheers.

 

[Kev Boy]

Not very clear PIC for the kerbing but I'll get a better one tomorrow in the daylight.

 

[WOLF]

Cant really see much on the pic but you've got a nice flat edge to guide you,file carefully the use wet n dry to finish it in different grades.If its not too deep maybe wet n dry will sort.You could always put a bit of filler in the rash if you don't fancy filing it.

 

[Craig Cull]

Just get some 180 grit on an orbital sander and remove any damage whilst shaping the edge to it's original form. I refurb wheels daily, along with everything else. If you get stuck, give me a shout. Could have you back on the road with all 4 wheels refurbed in 2 hours

 

[Craig Cull]

To a very high standard...

 

[Kev Boy]

If you did your wheels then a very high standard indeed.

I'll give that a go with 180 grit and see how I get on.

If I get stuck ill defo give you a shout. I'll still post a pic of the damage closely to see how well an amateur could do it or if it requires a more experienced hand.

Thanks guys.

 

[Kev Boy]

Is the 180 on the orbital for just the damage or over the whole wheel to ready it for paint.

Also will I need primer if the other parts arent taken to the metal?

 

[Craig Cull]

Is the 180 on the orbital for just the damage or over the whole wheel to ready it for paint.

Also will I need primer if the other parts arent taken to the metal?

Yes I did mine mate. A while ago now aswell. You can 180 and red scotch the whole wheel if you wish but make sure you get a good coat of primer on them. Then give them another good flat off with 500 and grey scotch. If you don't go back through to bare metal you can colour and lacquer straight over, but if you do, make sure you spot prime any bare metal before colouring.

Other option is you 180 the damaged area only and then grey scotch the rest and spot prime the 180 area, then Colour and lacquer.
Only issue with this method would be solely down to how good your preparation is. I always train my lads with the attitude of "no shine is fine" when it comes to prep. The more time you take in the early stages will mean a longer lasting and better finish long term.
Then it's just down to making sure you get good coverage in your colour, allow a good flash off time in between coats and then a nice finish in your lacquer and you should be fine.

Don't forget to degrease before preparation and after preparation before paint. It's minor but can cause lack of adhesion to the substrate long term. Believe me when I say, flaking wheels are an absolute nightmare to put right. Hope this helps and good luck

 

[ajax1976]

Unless you've got access to a gun, compressor and buy decent paint I'd be inclined to just take them to a powder coaters and get them stripped and redone professionally. Rattle can paint is expensive for what you get and the finish is never as good or as hard wearing, it would be a shame to waste your time prepping with a poor finish on top. My local place did my 20" wheels for £160 and that included removing and refitting the tyres.

 

[hades-]

To a very high standard...

what do you charge for 4 wheels no damage just need them refurb ST3 wheels

 

[Craig Cull]

what do you charge for 4 wheels no damage just need them refurb ST3 wheels

Same colour as original? Usually champion silver, £200 all in mate, tyres broken off the bead etc, cleaned inside and out with wheel acid before any prep work starts.

 

[hades-]

there factory black at the in so not sure on colour yet

 

[Kev Boy]

Pics of the damage. Doesn't look too bad once they're clean and in the daylight to be honest:

They're filthy but with a decent clean and not my 2 minute job should look right enough. Will still refurb them tho as they aren't going on my car looking like that.

 

[Craig Cull]

Unless you've got access to a gun, compressor and buy decent paint I'd be inclined to just take them to a powder coaters and get them stripped and redone professionally. Rattle can paint is expensive for what you get and the finish is never as good or as hard wearing, it would be a shame to waste your time prepping with a poor finish on top. My local place did my 20" wheels for £160 and that included removing and refitting the tyres.

Wouldn't be touching anything with a rattle can. All of the above was spray gun related as far as I'm concerned. Company I work for charge £65+vat per wheel and they are **** hot! Would hate to see the quality of the powder if he can dish them out @ £160 for a set of 4. £200 is a good enough price to pay for a very good job in 2k let alone powder.

 

[Craig Cull]

there factory black at the in so not sure on colour yet

Newer ST3? Can do them however you want mate

 

[ajax1976]

Wouldn't be touching anything with a rattle can. All of the above was spray gun related as far as I'm concerned. Company I work for charge £65+vat per wheel and they are **** hot! Would hate to see the quality of the powder if he can dish them out @ £160 for a set of 4. £200 is a good enough price to pay for a very good job in 2k let alone powder.

Sorry Craig, I was replying to the OP as it was he that was looking for advice on refurbing wheels in his thread. I was only advising from my own wasted money in the past from rattle cans, wasn't trying to dish your business, whoever you work for or discourage him from using your services.

And if you want to have a pop at the quality of my PCs work based on his prices you're welcome to come and take a look at my wheels anytime or take a look at his other work here, https://www.facebook.com/FifePowderCoatings/photos_stream.
From my experience PC is usually cheaper than a 2k paint job anyway as the most PC places rely on the wheel trade so have a larger turnover of wheels. I would have thought there wouldn't be much money in wheels for a bodyshop, more ££s in body, panel and insurance work surely.

 

[Kev Boy]

No need to argue. I for one appreciate all the replies so far. Very helpful.

Anyways, here is the progress so far. Got the worst two wheels repaired, prepped and primed today. Think it's going well. Some photos of before and afters:

Old kerbing:

Repaired/primed:

Also the alloys were so blistered and kerbed I had to remove nearly all the paint so I primed the whole wheels.

What do you think so far?

Also the finish might turn out ***** and if it does they are getting done again. I'm not a make do sort of person. But keeping the fingers crossed.

2 down, 2 to go...