I tried T-Cut, plus a few other things on the window surrounds and roof rails a few years ago. No joy at all. Going to get the window surrounds wrapped at some point as they look pretty shabby now
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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I'll see how long it takes for it to go back to looking bad... I'll report back on it but mine weren't that bad to begin with plus the chrome window surrounds on mine are wrapped to such a close match to the car paint at first thought they were painted... but they are wrapped. I found a corner where the wrap wasn't stretched down good enough... some heat and me pushing it on sorted thay out.
I think they are chrome plated or a similar alloy. If they were actual chrome then normal chrome polish/cleaner would bring them up but I think they "look" like chrome but may be a different finish hence why most of the cleaning products dont seem to do diddly squat. The ones on the RS are different again as they seem to be a silver finish ( flat ) almost satin ..
I just put the modified alarm siren on (mod = external batterypack) but since i didn't charge the batteries first, I'll have to wait for the car to charge them up. I also cleaned the connector to the tank flap as i noticed that sometimes it wasn't closing... Now there isn't much there that can cause it to not work so I tried to clean the connector first, upon locking the car i heard it lock itself and when i opened it right after i could hear it unlocking... another little thing I can scrap off the list 
Pretty sure they are chrome plated at best. They look too milky and don’t clean up with Autosol either
I tried some Rupes DA coarse yesterday on a microfibre cloth, it did "help" for sure, but the results weren't overly fantastic. Just did a small area under the driver wingmirror.
I'll probably do all of it when / if summer ever actually arrives in the UK lol
Reminds me, I need to do both my wiper arms as they are dulling a bit now, but they should come up fine with one of the many polishes I have in the garage.
Just finished cleaning the exterior of the car again it wasn't as massively dirty, so i stopped at a jetwash blew of the dust, paid some extra attention to the calipers and the inside of the wheel arches, drove home than gave the car a quick detailer go over with a microfibre cloth and gave the tlres the much needed tire dressing.
Removed the boost pressure sensor for a quick clean. 170 BRD.
Nice and easy under the passenger headlight and 2 torx. Quick blast with electrical cleaner, tiny bit of grease on the O ring and back in. Went back in nicely, no boost leaks. The O ring was in perfect condition, took a little wiggle to get the sensor out, first time out since 2006 I suspect so fair play.
Didn't look like much on the sensor, but only took 5 mins anyway.
I do the same sensor on my 1.9 AWX B5.5 Passat once a year just because - and on that car it's even easier...2 mins lol.
Nice and easy under the passenger headlight and 2 torx. Quick blast with electrical cleaner, tiny bit of grease on the O ring and back in. Went back in nicely, no boost leaks. The O ring was in perfect condition, took a little wiggle to get the sensor out, first time out since 2006 I suspect so fair play.
Didn't look like much on the sensor, but only took 5 mins anyway.
I do the same sensor on my 1.9 AWX B5.5 Passat once a year just because - and on that car it's even easier...2 mins lol.
OOOO need to know more, I was under the impression that I’d have to remove the bumper to get at the sensor. Mine is under there too. So are you saying that you can get to it without removing the headlight? I take it you go in from the top?
Yep dead easy on my BRD. Behind and down a bit from the back of the passenger headlight. The power steering fluid rubber line runs right behind the sensor on mine, I cable tied it out of the way whilst I did it. All done from the top, on mine it's basically located on the top of the passenger side intercooler.
Will have to have a look and see if I can get at it. Thanks for the info.
I've been opening up the throttle body and have stopped now as I don't think there is anymore to be gained taking of any more material.
It does appear to rev more freely and the economy has improved slightly.
I want to port the inlet side of the turbo next still using the power drill and flap wheels, although I won't remove the turbo I'll ensure nothing gets in there by stuffing it with some microfibre cloths and covering up the MAF on the air filter.
Sorry about the second image being out of focus as I was rushing to get in and see the Liverpool game, wishing I hadn't bothered now...
And I did give it very good clean inside the throttle body and outside to get rid of all the metal dust before refitting and doing the manual TBA without VCDS
The third image is some of the material removed from both sides.
It does appear to rev more freely and the economy has improved slightly.
I want to port the inlet side of the turbo next still using the power drill and flap wheels, although I won't remove the turbo I'll ensure nothing gets in there by stuffing it with some microfibre cloths and covering up the MAF on the air filter.
Sorry about the second image being out of focus as I was rushing to get in and see the Liverpool game, wishing I hadn't bothered now...
And I did give it very good clean inside the throttle body and outside to get rid of all the metal dust before refitting and doing the manual TBA without VCDS
The third image is some of the material removed from both sides.
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the amount of aluminium bits that are everywhere.... I would've taken it off , closed the bonnet and do it well away from the car... the aluminium particals you've found are just the bigger ones you can see with your eyes... there is bound to be a ton more that aren't visible... so might i suggest you do an engine flush and clear the oil pickup mesh filter just to make sure the engine is free from any of the aluminium shavings you've missed.
I used to blueprint engines and port the in- and outlets on the heads... and found that even with blocking the ports off and using a cleaner wasn't enough to remove the really fine aluminium shavings the eye doesn't spot. I would actually chuck them in the parts washer, or the dish washer. The latter was depending on the parts location, i didn't always finish doing the jobs in the garage, sometimes i would take them inside and finish the work off inside my home office( because it was warmer). And for those of you that don't know the best parts washer is the dishwasher, put on a long hot wash... the heads will comeout looking like new and the hot steam will make sure all the water evaporates upon removal. It's just a right PITA to clean the dishwasher afterwards. especially the filter and the drain need to be cleaned after if you want to use it's normal daily task.
A bit misleading those photos as I did it in the garage, I only put it on there air intake for the photos before cleaning up in the garage and refitting.
You're right about those aluminium particles, they got everywhere.
And yep, if I had a dishwasher and used it for engine parts I'd be living out of the garage once my good lady found out...
You're right about those aluminium particles, they got everywhere.
And yep, if I had a dishwasher and used it for engine parts I'd be living out of the garage once my good lady found out...
Lol my wife didn't care don't have one now as we downsized a few times and in the end there was no space for it anywhere...
It did serve me well though best parts washer ever
I did my inlet manifold once in the dishwasher... because I am well hard
Ok what I actually meant was , I did it in the dishwasher when I knew my wife was out and afterwards cleaned up and hid all evidence
They are anodised aluminium; including the roof rails on the Avant. The reason they become shabby after all the years, is because of chemicals, often used in automatic car washes that eat the surface protection away; the white blotches you then see are electrolytical corrosion of the underlying bare aluminium. There is no long term solution; other than the very expensive one of having the brightwork re-anodized or plated. All things like T-Cut mentioned, or whatever are just temporary; in fact WD40 is quite and as instantly effective after a valet; and will last a few days; it's also the easiest to apply - one quick wipe. But it's temporary like everything else and I've tried them all. If your brightwork is still reasonable do not expose it to any automatic car washes and give it a light waxing after careful wash; but I haven't seen many if any B7s with perfect bright trim now.
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No easy fix to aged bright work.
Options are replacing it, not practical.
Wrap it, does not allways last as long as one would like.
Get it professionally painted and sealed , a good option but costly
Or
Just live with it .
Options are replacing it, not practical.
Wrap it, does not allways last as long as one would like.
Get it professionally painted and sealed , a good option but costly
Or
Just live with it .
Roof rails tend to stay in better shape than door window trims.
Powder coating roof rails works welll too.
Powder coating roof rails works welll too.
Not on my car, Rob and from all the others I've seen neither; since the larger surface are stands out more on closer inspection. They would be easier to powder coat or plate though; as taking off the window trim is a real bind. I doubt there is any new brightwork still available, at any price; unless you're lucky enough to come across some new old stock. It was pretty poor anodising from the get go too, so even that wouldn't last forever. I'm not into black wrapping; I think they look more elegant with brightwork. The best is as you say live with it. WD40 works for me between valets and only takes seconds too.
My roof rails are very good but sadly door trims are poor , was going to get them wrapped a while back but decided it was only a short term fix.
I will most likely get them repainted professionally at some point as I thinks it probably the best compromise between longevity and finish.
I will most likely get them repainted professionally at some point as I thinks it probably the best compromise between longevity and finish.
Birthday gift to myself. Two new OEM rear lights as the current ones are cracked and crazed.
I’m going with the just live with it option for now. No more cosmetic work, saving for injectors instead.
Nice and shiny, will really refresh the back endBirthday gift to myself. Two new OEM rear lights as the current ones are cracked and crazed.
I replaced my headlights with some new OEM ones a couple of years ago, took years off the car as the old ones looked very worn out
I think I may remove mine and seal the holes.
mine are wrapped and somehow they found the same colour wrap as my car, thought at first that they were painted... but nope wrapped i found a corner where the wrap was lifting (ns front in the corner where the mirror is) just warmed it up and pushed it down and it was sorted. but judging by how it is done it must've been a proffesional job.
Jup and to think I washed and polished the car several times before I spotted it... and on that note going back to what I did today... washed and polished it... looking all nice like a black mirror... will have to repaint the calipers soon as they are not red enough after a clean.
But for now it'll do.
Red is a great colour.
I did my 18z's red and they looked great on a black bus, a few years on they started to look a bit grubby so they went bronze, in hindsight, I should have stayed with red.
I did my 18z's red and they looked great on a black bus, a few years on they started to look a bit grubby so they went bronze, in hindsight, I should have stayed with red.
red for the win, I forgot how good they look. I need the same on my A4 as the stock ones are a bit pants.
Started the old bus up today , I was fully expecting it to be a non starter after 5 weeks of inactivity, but it surprise me and fired up 1st turn of the key.
Booked in for its mot in the next week so hopefully will pass without any major issues.
Then to get some new rubber on the 19” le man’s .
Booked in for its mot in the next week so hopefully will pass without any major issues.
Then to get some new rubber on the 19” le man’s .
Then to plan the sump off / oil pump mod task, also fit the new oil cooler and filter housing.
I’ve all the parts here ready to fit , just need to wait until my sternum has healed enough to start messing around with heavy and stretching jobs.
I’ve all the parts here ready to fit , just need to wait until my sternum has healed enough to start messing around with heavy and stretching jobs.
I'm on the mend now, pretty well at the level I should be after a month, not going to rush out and tinker with it just yet but I like to plan ahead, always best to have a plan.
I'm driving now ( short runs) which is a real plus point, albeit in an auto merc viano bus so nice upright sitting position and lots of leg room, going to be a few more weeks before i can get into the old bus and use a manual gearbox though, but in no rush to be honest.
I'm driving now ( short runs) which is a real plus point, albeit in an auto merc viano bus so nice upright sitting position and lots of leg room, going to be a few more weeks before i can get into the old bus and use a manual gearbox though, but in no rush to be honest.
Today was a good day… Finally ordered injectors and RS4 fuel return valve from TPS 
Hi Rob. Can the public order from TPS again now as a few months ago was able to go in and buy over the counter than a few weeks ago phoned up 2 different TPS for parts and they both said it trade only again?Today was a good day… Finally ordered injectors and RS4 fuel return valve from TPS
