Help needed - What would you do?

[LukeyC]

Hey all, long time since I've posted, will keep this as short & succinct as possible.

Background: My 3.0TDI S-line Avant Tiptronic is pretty poorly, and I need to weigh up fixing vs replacing.
Car has done 112k, has literally every option from factory, owned by me for 7 years and fits my life perfectly (ie I can throw the kids/dogs in it, leave at the train station and our nanny does most of the miles in it. I now WFH full time.) It's pretty tatty cosmetically and a CAT D so worth peanuts, maybe £3k on a very good day.
However, the engine is smooth and powerful (remapped), gearbox smooth, adaptive suspension still works, everything mechanically feels good.

Big Issues:
1) Dynamic steering rack was ******* hydraulic fluid, had it replaced with a genuine used dynamic rack (checked part no's) but now it fails the calibration. This kills the adaptive cruise control, auto handbrake and ESP (which means MOT fail next week)

2) MMI has died - water ingress in boot. It shows splash screen, then dies. I opened up the B&O amp and there was water damage so sent off for repair, but it didn't fix the issue. Have a fibre optic loop on the way to find issue - suspect it's the "5F" headunit which are about £600 on ebay, and need to be coded to the car.
3) Sunroof rear drain plug - I've had the wheel arch liner off and tried to unblock the pipe but it's well and truly bunged up. Also suspect it's leaking where the pipe meets the cassette.

Minor issues:
Three of the door locks are faulty (I replaced these myself with ebay specials, it was always going to happen)
Lane guidance works sometimes, then cuts out.
I have corrosion on the inside of two alloy wheels - means every 3-4 months I have to take to the tyre specialist to "clean up" because they start to lose air, so I have a warning light on right now - can't reset the pressures because the MMI is dead.

What I've spent recently:
B&O Amp repair: £280
New Springs all round: ~£300 (can't remember RN)
New Brake Pads: ~£80 (can't remember RN)
Two new tyres: ~£240
Slow puncture repairs: £50
Total: £900-£1,200

What I'm likely to need to spend:
Adaptive cruise diag / calibration: £250? (includes required tracking correction before they can rerun the calibration)
MMI module + coding: £700?
Used 19 inch alloy wheel set: £500?
Sunroof: £££££££ (or bodge it)
Total: £1,500 - £2,000

It's due and service MOT next week, but in it's current state it will fail. I've had it 8 years and don't want to change it, but I'm also reluctant to throw more money at it.

There isn't anything on Autotrader that I'd want to replace it with for less than ~£20k (another 4WD, auto, V6 estate/SUV with all the toys).
Current frontrunners are: Late gen 1 RRS, Early gen 2 RRS, Jag XF Sportbrake, A6 BiTDI. I couldn't be less interested in buying / driving / owning any of these cars.

So, question is - what would you do?! Keep thowing money at the ol' warhorse, or get something new?

 

[LukeyC]

Here's a ODB scan from last night:

CAN network gateway:
02256 - Static current: Upper limit exceeded
00384 - Fiber Optic MOST Data Bus: Open circuit

Engine:
04327 - Function limitation due to received malfunction value
04986 - Cylinder 3 Glow Plug Circuit

High beam assist:
16352 - Control module: Faulty

ABS:
02214 - Tire pressure warning
03110 - Active Steering Control Module: Please read DTC

Active steering:
01087 - Basic setting not performed

Instrument cluster:
00438 - Fuel level sensor 2: Faulty

Heater & air conditioning:
01206 - Ignition OFF signal duration: Implausible signal

Driver's door:
01482 - Central locking motors: Short circuit to B+
02115 - Lock unit for central locking: Implausible signal
02123 - Door warning light / entry light: Electrical error in circuit

Front passenger's door:
01482 - Central locking motors: Short circuit to B+

Rear left door:
02115 - Lock unit for central locking: Implausible signal

Adaptive cruise control:
01314 - Engine Control Module: Please read DTC
01316 - ABS control module: Please read DTC
03110 - Active Steering Control Module: Please read DTC

Lane-change system:
02853 - Lane Change Assistance Warning Lamp: Driver side: Open circuit/short circuit to B+
02854 - Lane Change Assistance Warning Lamp: Front passenger side: Open circuit/short circuit to B+

Lane-maintain system:
02797 - Lane assistance control module: no or incorrect basic setting/adaptation

 

[Codyfl]

Hey all, long time since I've posted, will keep this as short & succinct as possible.

Background: My 3.0TDI S-line Avant Tiptronic is pretty poorly, and I need to weigh up fixing vs replacing.
Car has done 112k, has literally every option from factory, owned by me for 7 years and fits my life perfectly (ie I can throw the kids/dogs in it, leave at the train station and our nanny does most of the miles in it. I now WFH full time.) It's pretty tatty cosmetically and a CAT D so worth peanuts, maybe £3k on a very good day.
However, the engine is smooth and powerful (remapped), gearbox smooth, adaptive suspension still works, everything mechanically feels good.

Big Issues:
1) Dynamic steering rack was ******* hydraulic fluid, had it replaced with a genuine used dynamic rack (checked part no's) but now it fails the calibration. This kills the adaptive cruise control, auto handbrake and ESP (which means MOT fail next week)

2) MMI has died - water ingress in boot. It shows splash screen, then dies. I opened up the B&O amp and there was water damage so sent off for repair, but it didn't fix the issue. Have a fibre optic loop on the way to find issue - suspect it's the "5F" headunit which are about £600 on ebay, and need to be coded to the car.
3) Sunroof rear drain plug - I've had the wheel arch liner off and tried to unblock the pipe but it's well and truly bunged up. Also suspect it's leaking where the pipe meets the cassette.

Minor issues:
Three of the door locks are faulty (I replaced these myself with ebay specials, it was always going to happen)
Lane guidance works sometimes, then cuts out.
I have corrosion on the inside of two alloy wheels - means every 3-4 months I have to take to the tyre specialist to "clean up" because they start to lose air, so I have a warning light on right now - can't reset the pressures because the MMI is dead.

What I've spent recently:
B&O Amp repair: £280
New Springs all round: ~£300 (can't remember RN)
New Brake Pads: ~£80 (can't remember RN)
Two new tyres: ~£240
Slow puncture repairs: £50
Total: £900-£1,200

What I'm likely to need to spend:
Adaptive cruise diag / calibration: £250? (includes required tracking correction before they can rerun the calibration)
MMI module + coding: £700?
Used 19 inch alloy wheel set: £500?
Sunroof: £££££££ (or bodge it)
Total: £1,500 - £2,000

It's due and service MOT next week, but in it's current state it will fail. I've had it 8 years and don't want to change it, but I'm also reluctant to throw more money at it.

There isn't anything on Autotrader that I'd want to replace it with for less than ~£20k (another 4WD, auto, V6 estate/SUV with all the toys).
Current frontrunners are: Late gen 1 RRS, Early gen 2 RRS, Jag XF Sportbrake, A6 BiTDI. I couldn't be less interested in buying / driving / owning any of these cars.

So, question is - what would you do?! Keep thowing money at the ol' warhorse, or get something new?

Not sure if we have similar systems but I had in issue with my MMI not having power recently ended up being a 15amp mini fuse in the stereo. when u get your fiber optic loop probably worth checking if u end up opening dash.

 

[spartacus 68]

I understand your dilemma, however you need to separate the emotion of keeping this car, vs finding something new. You say yourself cosmetically it’s tatty, you can leave It at the train station and it fits your life with kids and dog. If you replace it, then you probably can’t leave it at the station, and how much do you trust your nanny driving a newer car?

I suppose it’s a straight forward question, if you think £2k would fix it and you’d be happy, then go for it, even if it buys you another couple of years. With these sort of broken car lists, the more you can do yourself, then the cheaper it is, otherwise constant big bills do push you into the, “sod it, I’m selling“ territory.

The sunroof I have lots of experience of. It’s a Webasto part. To access the rear drains, you’ll need to remove some of the rear trim to drop the headlining. If you’re doing this yourself, then disconnect battery as you’ll have curtain airbags. RS tools make a handy trim tool for removing the clips on the interior grab handles. Otherwise it’s Torx screws. Work clean and take your time. In my experience, then unlikely but not unfeasible for rear drain pipes to be disconnected or leaking. If you find they are leaking at the cassette drains, use a little Sikaflex 272 to join. Before doing this, run compressed air through the drain pipes. Check they drain properly before connecting. 99% of leaks are sunroof related, but you have plenum chamber in bulkhead (drain holes), deteriorate door or tailgate rubber, leaking rear wiper motor, etc. While you‘re at it, grease the sunroof rails. VW sell specific grease for this job, not cheap at £45, but better than replacing the motor.

Consider getting VCDS, you can get system for about £225 if you have old laptop to run it with 3 VIN system. Great bit of kit.

In terms of cars if you replace? A6 Allroad Bi-turbo would be interesting, but unless you’re spanner handy, then at price range you’re looking at - its more out of the frying pan into the fire territory If anything goes wrong. These cars are sensor heavy, an engine out job for accessing turbos and chain, and air suspension too. My understanding is the current air suspension is pretty reliable. Obviously if the compressor goes then that’s not a cheap fix, so you’d need cash in reserve as a contingency fund.

I just changed my car. Still have mint 6 speed manual 2012 2.0 TDI A4 Allroad (for sale soon), but moved to 2017 A4 Allroad 3.0 V6 (272PS) auto. More than enough power for me. Cosmetically it needed to on the money, but I wanted ULEZ compliant, panoramic, virtual cockpit, factory fitted electric towbar and in a colour I could live with. These cars do exist, but you need to travel when you find them.

Hope that helps.

 

[LukeyC]

Thanks Spartacus, I had front drain plug issues a few years ago and dropped the roofliner (to B pillars) and sikaflexed it all up, including the connectors - not a leak from the fronts since.

Do you have a link to the RS tool you mention please? Getting the grab handles off last time was a nightmare. I’ve got a generic “trim removal set” from Amazon but the right tool for the job makes things a lot easier.

I’ve made some progress with the MMI - looks like the repaired amp is OK, but it’s not getting power so awaiting arrival of new multimeter today to go fault finding.

Car is booked in with a specialist on 25th Oct to calibrate the dynamic steering - fingers crossed, I really want to keep the battle wagon going!

 

[spartacus68]

Do you have a link to the RS tool you mention please? Getting the grab handles off last time was a nightmare. I’ve got a generic “trim removal set” from Amazon but the right tool for the job makes things a lot easier.

Here you go. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/scre...cc7&cm_mmc=UK-CJAFF-_-Skimlinks-_-UK+Homepage

 

[LukeyC]

Thanks again Spartacus - tool ordered.

I’ve found that the 32pin connector to the B&O amp isnkt getting a 12v feed. The fuses on the right side of the boot are good, and the fuse socket (G5, 30amp) has voltage across it, so it look like an issue with the wiring loom .

It’s the gift that keeps on giving!

 

[spartacus 68]

A multimeter is your friend here. I have an boat and have dealt with more than enough wiring issues to last me a lifetime. Outboard manufacturers don’t used tinned cable, so oxidisation is real threat with seawater. The copper cable turns green, then eventually black and you lose signal.

On cars, it’s more likely to be surface corrosion, break in the wire completely, chaffed wiring, fuses, etc. Do a continuity test. You can set up a rig with a length of wire and crocodile clips and have the multimeter audible tone on. It’s slow work, but once you identify the area, then you can zone in on fix.