2001 A3 (8L) Xenon range problem

[sjokolademelka]

Hello good people!

As the title says there's a quite annoying problem with my xenon automatic range control. Randmoly after startup the right headlight finds the need to aim at various downward angles, sometimes even at the lowest angle possible, making the right headlight beam just a few feet in front of the car. The left headlight seems unaffected of the right headlight's behaviour, thus poor light efficiency due to lights not level.

Vag-Com shows no fault codes, both front and rear sensor are in the specified range ref. label file in Vag-Com v704.1
Basic settings has also been set while headlights still level, but did not solve the problem.

My guess is that the control module by hella (VAG part# 4B0 907 357) could have some kind of a firmware error.

So guys, any pointers or information is highly appreciated as I'm about to scratch my head bald.



After turning to my friend google I found out I'm not alone in this situation ( http://www.audiforums.com/m_724129/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm ) However problem remains unsolved.

 

[davidhodgkinson]

I've got the same problem, only mine only happens intermittantly whilst driving.

I've replaced both levelsensors and this has improved it, but the fault still occurs.

 

[dunk]

8L s3 xenons are well known for this - its the control motor within the light

many were replaced under warranty - i had to pay for mine but it wasnt that expensive (about £80 i think) - usually only 1 seems to go fortunately.

 

[sjokolademelka]

I've got the same problem, only mine only happens intermittantly whilst driving.

I've replaced both levelsensors and this has improved it, but the fault still occurs.

Yeah same thing can happen to me as well, I might have explained it bad, but it happens intermittantly. Sometimes right after startup, sometimes after driving a bit. Quite annoying.

8L s3 xenons are well known for this - its the control motor within the light

many were replaced under warranty - i had to pay for mine but it wasnt that expensive (about £80 i think) - usually only 1 seems to go fortunately.

Are you sure? I've had the complete right headlight unit changed two(!!) times under warranty since the car was new, but the warranty was effectuated due to faulty igniters / ballasts and since they come only as a unit no spare igniter or ballast is available.

However, the motor works fine during output tests (lowers and raises the beam perfectly), it's just the right headlight seems to live it's own life when driving.
Still think it's the motor?


Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[dunk]

when i had my s3, i had the same problem and there were a spate of cars with the same symptoms - mine was a 2001.

i had the motor replaced and the problem was solved, but i cant say thats your problem. in your first post you didnt say you had the lights replaced already so maybe its not the motor in your case.

i doubt its a firmware issue - it may be a faulty controller, or more likely a bad connection between the the sensors and controller or possibly controller and lights.

did they really change the whole light, including casing and motor? looking at the parts catalogue the motor, reflector and housing are separate parts from the ballast and igniter so they may have put in a new ballast/igniter in to your old housing/motor assembly?

 

[sjokolademelka]

when i had my s3, i had the same problem and there were a spate of cars with the same symptoms - mine was a 2001.

i had the motor replaced and the problem was solved, but i cant say thats your problem. in your first post you didnt say you had the lights replaced already so maybe its not the motor in your case.

i doubt its a firmware issue - it may be a faulty controller, or more likely a bad connection between the the sensors and controller or possibly controller and lights.

did they really change the whole light, including casing and motor? looking at the parts catalogue the motor, reflector and housing are separate parts from the ballast and igniter so they may have put in a new ballast/igniter in to your old housing/motor assembly?

According to etka the ballast/igniter (one unit) is not supplied seperately and so did the VAG shop say as well and was basically why I filed a claim for warranty as the unit is expensive $$$... In the illustration you will see them as separate parts, but try click on them and you will see it's not avail.
So yes they did atleast change the complete housing and the electronic unit with igniter/ballast, but if they swapped the motor from the old headlight I have no clue. I will check it up if it looks newer than the left one, but visual inspection leaves no doubt the whole housing was changed.

Poor connections from the sensors to the beam length control unit, is checked out and not an issue. I have difficulty seeing this should be the problem as it's only one sensor for the front axle as well as one for the rear, thus the lights should have behaved as a paired unit not in each their own way.
Poor connection from the control unit to the light itself could be an issue, but still the diagnostic procedures as Output Tests, seem to work flawlessly. No Intermittant fault codes either.

I'm willing to try the most as I seem to need the light at night...

Appreciate all the input fellas:icon_thumright:

 

[dunk]

a normal output test would tend to say the controller is ok too - hmmm

its difficult to find intermittent faults - if you are confident its not a connector then you only have the controller to replace i suppose

i have an underground mains cable that develops a 415v short between phases but only when it rains heavily and only when a lorry passes at a particular speed - it took 4 days to diagnose the damaged insulation causes by a fence post -= anyway you get the picture.

do you know anyone else with a similar car - -perhaps you could swap controllers and see what happens - then buy a new controller if everything works with the swap.

 

[sjokolademelka]

Dunk, you were right it was the headlight motor.

However, it turned out that this motor also was new, replaced under warranty as mentioned earlier, so this was the new updated part with part number 8L0 (over the old part 3B0). What seems to be the problem is a few weak soldering points on the pcb inside the motor resulting in intermittent perfomance.

Edit; Worked my way over the pcb and components, looking for poor soldering points, fixed a few ones and now the car has been fine ever since.
If anyone has the same problems and wanna do the same I have some pics if needed.

 

[alijames]

Dunk, you were right it was the headlight motor.

However, it turned out that this motor also was new, replaced under warranty as mentioned earlier, so this was the new updated part with part number 8L0 (over the old part 3B0). What seems to be the problem is a few weak soldering points on the pcb inside the motor resulting in intermittent perfomance.

Edit; Worked my way over the pcb and components, looking for poor soldering points, fixed a few ones and now the car has been fine ever since.
If anyone has the same problems and wanna do the same I have some pics if needed.

Hi, I'm seeing this on my drivers side Xenon. Any chance you could post/pm the pictures?

Cheers,

 

[sjokolademelka]

Hi, I'm seeing this on my drivers side Xenon. Any chance you could post/pm the pictures?

Cheers,

Hey you!

Sorry for the late response, but I've been fairly busy - havent been on this forum for two months I believe.

Anyhow, I'm afraid you're outta luck as far as illustration pics are concerned. My gf had a clean up on the memory card as she needed space for her pics..

It's rather simple, you just twist out the motors and pop off the rear plate on em. There you'll see the pcb and I'm fairly sure you'll spot the weak solder points right there. If not just take a picture of it and post here and I'll explain and guide you through it the best I can.

Cheers

 

[simch]

Anyone know the part number for a new xenon motor, drivers side? My dealer says I need a new complete xenon light!!

 

[sjokolademelka]

If it's the levelling motor for the xenon you need, it should be 8L0 941 295B for the A3 8L atleast.

However, you could be saving a fist of $$ by trying to fix the ones you have already if you have the same symptoms as mentioned above.