superkarls overhaul

[superkarl]

The ability of a red hot 20vt to u do feck off great bolts is terrifying!

My car is probably 5kg lighter than when it left the factory mainly due to bolts falling out

Good luck in your quest for boost Karl, even if the actuator is cracking open at the same pressure, it's still plausible that the spring has weakened off a tad now it's all settled a bit

Haha

Cheers prawn. Solid boost pipes are in order and another visit to Rick to check from a tuning perspective and to add a few other features

That 5psi difference really is substantial in the way it feels. This turbo seems to become a whole different animal at higher pressure which is what all of these GTX turbos seem to do. I'm still logging 291g/s tho at this lower boost level which is pretty healthy

 

[Prawn]

292 Is the limit of the sensor isn't it?

 

[superkarl]

292 Is the limit of the sensor isn't it?

Oh is it? I had no idea. I'm in an RS4 housing remember

S3 maf limit = 292g/s
S4 maf limit = 337g/s
RS4 maf limit = 550g/s

 

[Scullies]

Dude, try pressure testing the intlet manifold. I have found leaking injector seats and leaking o-rings.
Worth a try.

DIY TIP - tie a piece of string around those boost leak tester caps and secure them to the car/engine. Prevent them from flying into your fan if they pop off. You will still mess your pants from the popping noise tho

 

[<tuffty/>]

Oh is it? I had no idea. I'm in an RS4 housing remember

S3 maf limit = 292g/s
S4 maf limit = 337g/s
RS4 maf limit = 550g/s

Depends on scaling in the map... you don't need to use the larger scaling data as its all relative... corrections can be made in other maps if need be...

Please note that these are VCDS limits especially the RS4 one as its should be capable of 499gs on std RS4 scaling but VCDS will only report up to 364gs using an RS4 tube, sensor and scaling

<tuffty/>

 

[Scullies]

^^ more reason to go mafless

 

[Erikn89nl]

DIY TIP - tie a piece of string around those boost leak tester caps and secure them to the car/engine. Prevent them from flying into your fan if they pop off. You will still mess your pants from the popping noise tho

Scary noise indeed! Mine disappeared out of the engine bay completely, landed in the neighbour's yard

 

[superkarl]

^^ more reason to go mafless

Can't be done on standard management tho can it

Unfortunately for me I don't think il be exceeding the vcds limits. Maybe one day

 

[<tuffty/>]

MAF less is doable but the tables used are pretty rudimentary as they are essentially the protection tables for when MAF goes pete tong...

For a road car using MAF makes sense... something thats more track orientated or running a more exotic hardware setup then yeah but the option to go standalone would be potentially more appealing at that point

<tuffty/>

 

[Goubo1]

Il get them ordered, thanks prawn

Karl do you have the part numbers for these ?

 

[superkarl]

Karl do you have the part numbers for these ?

N90484003

 

[Goubo1]

N90484003

Thanks dude

 

[superkarl]

Having lost a turbo-mani nut I ordered some new K-nuts. Fitted with a schnorr washer like previously. Checked the following morning and the ****** didn't even last the journey home from the garage lmao

I'm going to try without a washer.
I'm also not sure how sensitive these nuts are to over tightening, being slim line/thin wall. M10 but 12m 6 point.

And finally a pretty picture:

 

[CHEZ]

Karl, Karl, Karl
You should have said rather than abuse me in WhatsApp lol
You need a split spring washer sandwiched between 2 flat washers then preferably a nylok nut, if that's not possible Cos of the heat use 2 normal nuts locked together
Here to help you git div

 

[Prawn]

Nordlock the *******.

 

[Alex C]

One of them did fly out at 1bar and went about 30ft across the room so you do have to be careful.

DIY TIP - tie a piece of string around those boost leak tester caps and secure them to the car/engine. Prevent them from flying into your fan if they pop off. You will still mess your pants from the popping noise tho

I've had that testing rock samples in a triaxial cell; increased the confining pressure on a rock sample whilst the testing cell wasn't in the rig just to stop it falling out - squeezed too hard and the rock sample shot out of the end at high velocity across the lab into the back wall

 

[<tuffty/>]

I had similar issues with my GT30...

Which was sorted by tapping the manifold to M10 and using high grade cap screws and nords...

Granted that was a T3 rather than T25 but I had loads of hassle with M8 studs... they just stretch as they are as manly as jardo...

If you can, try and source some inconel studs... I stupidly binned mine off not realising... never had an issue with them coming loose on those (not to say my experience is indicative mind) but they should hold up better than the studs normally supplied...

<tuffty/>

 

[superkarl]

I had similar issues with my GT30...

Which was sorted by tapping the manifold to M10 and using high grade cap screws and nords...

Granted that was a T3 rather than T25 but I had loads of hassle with M8 studs... they just stretch as they are as manly as jardo...

If you can, try and source some inconel studs... I stupidly binned mine off not realising... never had an issue with them coming loose on those (not to say my experience is indicative mind) but they should hold up better than the studs normally supplied...

<tuffty/>

Well I drilled and tapped it for M10 as I was aware of the problems with using M8. They're 12.9 grade high tensile studs as well.
The problem you have then is one of space as the T25 housings are designed for M8 and so you don't have much space to work with in getting any sort of spanner on the nuts, hence the slim K-nuts.
It's also impossible to have bolts on the other side of the housing to my picture, shape of the housing simply won't let a nut of any length greater than jardos clitoris go in.
I'm going to try without a washer tonight, and also order some nordlocks should that fail.

 

[superkarl]

I've had that testing rock samples in a triaxial cell; increased the confining pressure on a rock sample whilst the testing cell wasn't in the rig just to stop it falling out - squeezed too hard and the rock sample shot out of the end at high velocity across the lab into the back wall

Dunno what rig you have but that's impossible with ours.

We were saying the other day we've never had a catastrophic failure in 10+ years.
Manchester Uni had one years ago apparently under full test conditions which sent something through a wall

It will be my home for the next 4 years so I'm sure their will be some carnage

 

[Alex C]

sorry; thread derail

What are you doing at Manchester for 4 years?

we were using an old MTS rig with a third party triaxial cell; testing Zagros limestones with a UCS ~30-40ksi. The image below is just some google image search but the rig is the same

What rig is that you have got? what tests can you do with it? can you control pore pressure?

 

[superkarl]

sorry; thread derail

What are you doing at Manchester for 4 years?

we were using an old MTS rig with a third party triaxial cell; testing Zagros limestones with a UCS ~30-40ksi. The image below is just some google image search but the rig is the same

What rig is that you have got? what tests can you do with it? can you control pore pressure?

let me get some more pics.....

 

[superkarl]

That's a rig designed in house by Prof Dan Faulkner and Gary Coughlin. We have 3 of those, all with max confining pressures of 250 MPa (can go to 400 but we don't know when it will fail), and temps of about 200 degrees.

The cells look like this:

The one in the back can control pore pressure, one tube in the top and the spiral one to the bottom. We can fix pore fluid pressure, or induce a pressure gradient across the sample which are 50 X 20mm cores, and then measure porosity and permeability changes in real time.

The other two test cells are for seismic tests, the wires go to piezo metric crystals which produces our P and S waves and we can record them under all sorts of conditions.

Then we have our shear test rig, no pics but imagine two semi cylinders, sample goes between, slide them past each other at various rates under various conditions. We can introduce pore fluid pressure on that too.

Then we have 2 rigs which are currently being made, one is a triaxial rig but with capability of going to 700 degrees. The other is a rotary shear rig that stands about 8 feet tall and has no limitation on the amount of slip rate unlike the other which is limited to about 10microns/s.

And that's about it
I love this stuff and can't wait to do more. I hope to start a PhD with Dan and the team, got my heart set on it.
I might be in the lab later cooking up some gypsum with one of our PhDs.

 

[newbster]

might be in the lab later cooking up some gypsum with one of our PhDs

is that northern slang for something a bit naughty ?
any chicken restaurants round your way?

seriously, that is some cool ****

 

[superkarl]

is that northern slang for something a bit naughty ?
any chicken restaurants round your way?

seriously, that is some cool ****

You've seen breaking bad right?

They call me steinberg

 

[newbster]

who hasn't seen BB?

got the box set last crimble, as was indeed binge watching

maybe Karl(s)berg

 

[superkarl]

maybe Karl(s)berg

id probably be the best in the world

 

[badger5]

Karl, Karl, Karl
You should have said rather than abuse me in WhatsApp lol
You need a split spring washer sandwiched between 2 flat washers then preferably a nylok nut, if that's not possible Cos of the heat use 2 normal nuts locked together
Here to help you git div

spring washers pointless on a turbo/manifold.. they loose all spring when heat cycled.. Nordlocks if any washer is used, but I would be betting stud itself is stretching..

 

[badger5]

Well I drilled and tapped it for M10 as I was aware of the problems with using M8. They're 12.9 grade high tensile studs as well.
The problem you have then is one of space as the T25 housings are designed for M8 and so you don't have much space to work with in getting any sort of spanner on the nuts, hence the slim K-nuts.
It's also impossible to have bolts on the other side of the housing to my picture, shape of the housing simply won't let a nut of any length greater than jardos clitoris go in.
I'm going to try without a washer tonight, and also order some nordlocks should that fail.

and this is why we use only vband setups on our builds
T25/T3 all suck when it comes to bolt/stud fixings.. Been there, suffered that, upgraded and it went away

 

[superkarl]

and this is why we use only vband setups on our builds
T25/T3 all suck when it comes to bolt/stud fixings.. Been there, suffered that, upgraded and it went away

I've learnt my lesson now bill.
It was something I was aware of but thought if I take certain measures I might be a lucky one. PITA

 

[badger5]

I've learnt my lesson now bill.
It was something I was aware of but thought if I take certain measures I might be a lucky one. PITA

been there too dude.. Feel your pain.
hence evolved and engineered out things as they occur..

every days a school day

 

[StaceyS3]

I feel your pain as also had no end of problems similar to you

The best result I found was oem RS2/S2 K26 m10 nuts which were 15mm across flats rather than the usual 17mm, they have a built in spring locking mech similar to a nyloc but obviously suitable for the heat.

Once I switched to these with nordlock washers the rare occasion they backed out it was with the stud.

I'll see if can dig a part number and pic from somewhere if any help?

 

[superkarl]

I feel your pain as also had no end of problems similar to you

The best result I found was oem RS2/S2 K26 m10 nuts which were 15mm across flats rather than the usual 17mm, they have a built in spring locking mech similar to a nyloc but obviously suitable for the heat.

Once I switched to these with nordlock washers the rare occasion they backed out it was with the stud.

I'll see if can dig a part number and pic from somewhere if any help?

Cheers Stacey they sound fancy.
So far the second nut is holding. I had some nordlocks arrive in the post yesterday, however I don't have enough stud for nordlocks and my k-nuts, they're too tall, I'd need a really short nut to use nords.
So far so good tho.

I still have a blow which I think is coming from the 5 bolt downpipe flange, another pita.

If I could've had a v banded adapter welded to my hot side I would've but the atp manifold has the turbo right over cylinder 2, this means 0 room for v band adapter + downpipe.

There is only one solution to this whole saga.....
Nortech tubular manifold and downpipe, tial v band housing, 44mm gate, new lines, head work, new map.

 

[Prawn]

About £3k then

 

[superkarl]

About £3k then

yeh pretty much
This turbo would sing though, and it would be built rock solid.

 

[S3Alex]

There is only one solution to this whole saga.....
Nortech tubular manifold and downpipe, tial v band housing, 44mm gate, new lines, head work, new map.

Karl,the Nortech stuff is lovely.

It's a proper piece of automotive art,and well worth wating for.

 

[superkarl]

Got this the other day:

Car was cold and I was leaving a site in Chester in 3rd, v little boost and engine light went berserk. I was on a hill so coasted to the bottom.
Scanned and cleared and then fired back up:

Was then fine all the way home on the motorway, boosting to 2bar pulling strong. Weird. Might check the plugs out.

 

[Rick @ Unicorn Motor Dev.]

Karl if you can do without the car for a a couple of weeks I can supply an external gated housing with V band in and out and have a very high quality tubular manifold fabricated with external gate take off. Would be a lot less than 3k, just give me some notice as my fabricator is very busy.

Rick

 

[badger5]

now there's an offer Karl

 

[antwan64og]

No love for drilled nuts and safety wire

http://www.competitionfasteners.com/race-nuts---flange-nuts-drilled-for-lockwire-49-c.asp

 

[superkarl]

Karl if you can do without the car for a a couple of weeks I can supply an external gated housing with V band in and out and have a very high quality tubular manifold fabricated with external gate take off. Would be a lot less than 3k, just give me some notice as my fabricator is very busy.

Rick

now there's an offer Karl

Certainly is.

Thanks Rick.
I will prob be in contact in the new year about this, its definitely the way forward