It usually says ">1500 miles" - no? Maybe You just missed the ">" sign?
The number is not gonna decrease unless you get less than 1500 miles remaining, while itnis above that, it will not show an actual number, than can only be seen using proper scan tool.
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Better to scan for fault codes before start guessing all the possible solutions.
My adblue fault was sorted by changing the Adblue controle module, I had a fault:
P21CA00 - Reductant Control Module Supply Voltage Circuit static
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The larger fuse rating I think could be the red flag that something is from with the ABS pump. It is possible to restore the electrical part of those. But if you can get one from wreckers - You could at least test that it's faulty.
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From Ross Tech
01130 - ABS Operation: Implausible Signal
Possible Causes
Fuse(s) faulty
Modifications/Retrofits incompatible
Wiring from/to Brake Electronics Control Module (J104) faulty
Electrical Interference from External Sources
High Frequency Radiation (e.g. non-insulated Ignition Cable)...
When You check Your tire pressures, when TPMS flashes, did You find a wheel with low pressure? Is it always the same wheel?
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That code is:
328964 - Motor for Front Air Distribution Flap
But that I think is just another failure in the system, not linked to coolant leak.
I think You are thinking correctly that's heater matrix.
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Maybe because audi has coil on pack - no distributor and leads - so I have never heard that somebody would change spark plug/coil pack wires when changing spark plugs - that's not a service item for 1996+ and younger audi engines which all have no distributors.
Sometimes coil packs are replaced...
Have never heard that VAG has wet belt system - only dry belt or chain (which I guess one could call wet chain if there's a car design with dry chain?).
I'm curious, in which VAG petrol models have You seen wet belt design?
Because I have only seen 1.8 TFSi with either dry belt or wet chain and...
Non-dealers which are VAT payers and "verified" by Audi I think can use erWin - The electronic repair and workshop information - to update Your digital service schedule. Anyone can access it, I use it sometimes for DIY jobs (it's pay for access), but only "verified" shops can update the digital...
I assume it's not related to battery and starter - that it cranks good and strong - than it could be fuel related - fuel from fuel return line let's fuel sip back to fuel tank and it takes time for the fuel pump to get it back to correct pressure when You turn the key.
I'm not familiar with...
EGR usually gunks up the intake manifold, did they cleaned the intake manifold when diagnosing the EGR cooler as culprit?
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I did it using obd11 and just deleting the fault codes. They came straight back with again with the interval it first appeared.
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