B7 general discussion/chat thread.
- Thread starter Charlie Farley
- Start date
Thinking the same as you @northpole, if I hadn't had a newish clutch I would look at a SMF conversion with a slightly skimmed and properly balanced flywheel. Not too much taken off as then you'd get that rattle plus the harmonics are off, but it would rev more freely.
Have to agree with @northpole on this one, I had to read that twice, £1800 really. Is that clutch gold plated???
That's for clutch AND the DMF + new slave cylinder, which is what took the clutch out in the first place. I double checked the invoice it was £1700 less £500 back from the AA. It's been good as gold and smoother than it ever was, so I know it's been done properly. It's proper Luk gear too. That's what they cost. As I said I could have had done by bro for what it would have cost me if I did it but I would have had to get it to him. AA would have done that for me but I was working and had to get it done there and then.
DdraigCymru
New Member
Hi guys, been lurking in this forum for a while trying to work through all the threads I can and soak up as much info as possible. I have the 2.0 tfsi quattro s-line. I have some damage on my bumper and wanted to buy a new (ideally primed) but any search throws up "non sline" results or they don't specify I've been going around in circles, so I was wondering do any of you have any go-to sites for parts, aftermarket or OEM as the car is a little dated now and I'd like to tidy up a few bits here and there.
If you want a new part search online...Autodoc might have them if not the dealer might still sell them new. But if i was you i'd go onto facebook marketplace and look for someone breaking one in your area... it might be the cheapest solution and painted in the right colour already so it'll be just a swap over. Worst case you get it cheap and take it to a bodyshop and have them respray it so it's an exact match to your car. Either way it'll be cheaper than buying a new bumper.
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I know somone breaking one of these in Watford on on 08 plate in a 'metallic black' . I think undamaged too. PM me for more info.
Question re number plate lights/bulbs. I want to improve the dull and poor halogen ones with some brighter ones from EM Tuning.
Now I know you need to remove the boot lid trim so warning triangle out, screw in handle out, gently pull the trim away. But for the life of me I cant seem to see where the loom/plugs are for the actual back of the light module. The one I can see is the boot lock actuator. Anyone know how to find it, is it on the left side as you look at it or the right side ? cheers
Now I know you need to remove the boot lid trim so warning triangle out, screw in handle out, gently pull the trim away. But for the life of me I cant seem to see where the loom/plugs are for the actual back of the light module. The one I can see is the boot lock actuator. Anyone know how to find it, is it on the left side as you look at it or the right side ? cheers
are you talking about the black light section ( once the lens is removed ) that sits in the slots, the one that has the two metal plates that contact with the metal springs of the light fixture ? didnt see if they could be unscrewed. All I need to do is to get to the wiring so I can add in the inline resistor that EM tuning provide to stop any canbus errors.
Its this thing I am trying to fit
Ahh ,no your doing it differently to how I did it
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i used the same as type as @Jamsmoo can't beat the ease of installtion. no faults or flickering... the only thing is they are so bright they light up the ground under the bumper. But it does it's job.
@swisstony if you remove the numberplate light on the NS you'll be able to pull the OEM connector out a bit further and connect that cable to it, than you can replace the halogen bulbs for those led bulbs ( they connect in series so only needed on the NS) But it is 100% easier to use the ones both me and Jamsmoo used. the error canceller is inside the fixture and if it stops working it's a bit more expensive than just replacing the bulb but they last for years ( my mk4 golf used the same ones and it went to the scrappy with them on and still working, that as after 8 years of daily use).
@swisstony if you remove the numberplate light on the NS you'll be able to pull the OEM connector out a bit further and connect that cable to it, than you can replace the halogen bulbs for those led bulbs ( they connect in series so only needed on the NS) But it is 100% easier to use the ones both me and Jamsmoo used. the error canceller is inside the fixture and if it stops working it's a bit more expensive than just replacing the bulb but they last for years ( my mk4 golf used the same ones and it went to the scrappy with them on and still working, that as after 8 years of daily use).
Well I have paid for these so may as well use them ..
So what you are saying is forget going inside the bootlid after removing the trim. Instead take the outer lens off exposing the connections and then remove the OEM connector ( assume it somehow pulls out ? ) which then exposes the back of the unit where this inline resisitor will plug in ?
No need to pull the inside off. The lights are held in by a screw. Remove screw pull out light assembly and that cable should plug right onto the oem cable for the fixture. You'll have to replace the halogenbulb anyway so do that first if it doesn't fit the oem connector of the light assembly, than you'll have remove the interliner and fit that cable before it connects to the lights.
Ps you got elsawin to double check so I suggest you have a look in it if you have to remove the innerliner to connect it further down the line.
Pps the other lights are way easier.
Ps you got elsawin to double check so I suggest you have a look in it if you have to remove the innerliner to connect it further down the line.
Pps the other lights are way easier.
sorry still dont get it ... when I remove the outer clear lens that holds the bulb ( single screw ) I am faced with a moulded connector unit with two small metal pads . There are no cables visible ... which is why I thought the cable is visible from inside the boot. On all my other cars, you take out the outer lens and the cable is visible, not on my audi hence the question.
LOL, will do and report back.Pull out the black housing once you remove the lens... a whole new world back there for you to see
Audi How to Replace License Plate Bulb
Some do-it-yourself jobs are just plain easy. Changing out the license plate bulb on your Audi is one of them. Keep reading to find out h...
www.audiworld.com
couldn't make it easier as someone took the time to show hw to remove the licenseplate bulb housing completely
I will take a photo at some point and you will see what I have and what you linked to are different
The cable goes into the same cable that does the lock which at first made no sense
Well blow.me down all the way up there? You should've gone for the ones we have, way easier and just an unbolt, replace bolt on job. As easy as the welcome lights in the doors.
I’m with you ….. there’s no way of getting to the wiring for the bulb holder without taking the inner trim off the boot. It’s one piece which includes both bulb recesses and the boot release part too, and is screwed on from the inside, 8mm nuts from memory. The wiring connects in to this part..
Attachments
I did it without removing the inner trim but I got the ones that come with a complete housing and the error cancellers are integrated inside the housing of the led units... easy as unclipping the oem halogen housing(remove bolt than unclipped oem housing, just like in the video) than the connector comes down with the housing. Same goes for both. And I have big hands, and swapped them both in 5 minutes. And I'm quite sure it was the same for @Jamsmoo.
Again the whole license plate light housing comes out by itself if you unclip it. And with it comes the oem connector to it... Now I'm not sure if that cable would connect up to the connector on the housing but if it does you gave yourself more work.
finally someone who gets it. I knew I wasnt going mad as when you look at the assembly you can see the lock mechanism and both number plate bulb holders are all one piece. Anyway after speaking to Trup he explained that the inline resisitor they supply does in fact use the lock mechanism to tie into . which intially was why I was confused as when I plugged it in the boot started making locking/unlocking noises. But seems that is how it works. Anyway all back together now and seems to be working..time will tell as the little metal prongs that bend and make contact with the metal pads are very sensitive to get into the correct angle.
Well see this is why you needed to open it up the cable does not connect to the light bulb housing but inline further up the stream....
Next time make your life easier and just get those things both Jamsmoo and I have lol
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that is all well and good saying get this part etc but I was trying to solve the problem with the part I had already. I totally get that the parts you both had was a lot simpler but the confusion seemed to be that what you have ( as in the boot lid layout ) is different to what myself and Gmac have. Which makes it even odder as how can two models of B7 be so different on such a simple item.
It would not work as the item you linked to needs a cable to be visible and Gmac and I dont have that ..simples
A bit like this . You can see the two sections that house the number plate plights are moulded and in this pic you can see where the cable goes into the lock mechanism
and this is the oem bulb holder showing the metal prongs that connect to the metal pads
I just went out and rechecked mine.. it is the exact same as yours... but the black part comes out. After you have removed the lens and halogenbulb...And after another check online the A4 b6 b7 b8 and the a6 c6 all use the exact same registration bulb holders and housing. I'll do a deep search in etka and report back.
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I just did a search in Etka... there are only 2 part numbers... one for the left the other for the right light aka they are the same across all the variants of the b6 and b7.
But as I said before you got it working and that is all there is to it.
PS i got these not the ones you put a picture up off (checked my purchase history)
But as I said before you got it working and that is all there is to it.
PS i got these not the ones you put a picture up off (checked my purchase history)
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really odd then because believe me that black plastic housing is not coming out unless I take out the entire housing including lock. Must be different on avants is all I can say
