4.7 litres suggested by others and is what I poured in - I cycled through the gears as described before driving.
Definately fit the filter and cover before strating the engine!
Stuart
I used a thin slitting disc in a 4.5" angle grinder for cuts and then heat gun / soldering iron to close the area in 3rd picture using a discarded offcut and plastic welding. HTH Stuart
“Timing belt / drive belt and water pump” will be cam belt & the water pump which is driven off the cam belt.
The preventative maint sticky thread suggests 70k intervals for cam belt but there is also usually a age recommendation.
There is also a cam chain at the other end of the engine that...
I'd agree with above - fit the indiction and exhaust now it will be ok as is but save up and then go Stage2+ in one hit and thoroughly recommend R-Tech.
I would suggest get R-Tech to fit the RS4 PRV and HPFP kit when they have the car in to do the map. They are both in the same area and the PRV...
I have a Turbo back resonated Miltek on 8P S3 - its slightly louder than std but not intrusive at all on motorways and doesn't turn heads as being anti-social. If you've already bough a catback Miltek and fitted it then you have chosen resonated or non-res - swapping the downpipe and cat only...
NGK BKR7EIX are a very popular choice, I am running 8's which run a little cooler with no issue even in the depths of winter - suggest you go with the advice of your engine builder / mapper.
Sounds like a good number to have a recorded baseline / keep an eye on if you have capability to check it.
Just fired up VCDS and block 93 showed -2 degrees on my engine (53k miles & no audible chain rattle).
Front Anti Lift Kit and Rr ARB is a good upgrade even if you change nothing else and both are easy to fit.
I fitted the 24mm Whiteline ARB 7 use on the hardest setting - those 2 mods together make the car significantly more positive on turn-in and balanced.
Std rear ARB is around 22mm IIRC and...
Nope - other way round as the new tyres are smaller rolling circumference - at any indicated speed you are going 7.8% slower on the new tyres then you were on the old tyres but that doesn't fit with your comment of 30mph flash-up signs.
I have found an Accumate to be very good to keep a car battery charged & conditioned for extended periods - once it has hit target voltage it goes into maintenance mode monitoring battery voltage until voltage drops below a threshold whereupon it switched back into trickle charge etc - IE no...
If its full turbo back exhaust Milltek then whats the problem? If it is cat-back then agree its a big compromise if you are planning on mapping.
Figure out exactly what you have first.
Replacing the back box will work if the rest of the system is non-sportsback.
But for a much lower cost cut some of the grafted in section to shorten the rear section whilst leaving the exhaust tips unmolested.
Its not a difficult job, needs an angle grinder and mig - welding stainless is...
Check pipe od but I think what you need is this - £9 from ebay in stainless. Also suggest mikalor stainless clamps.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/76-2mm-to-69-85mm-Stainless-Flared-Standard-Exhaust-Reducer-Connector-Pipe-Tube/131205845625?hash=item1e8c7a5279:g:XHMAAOxyx0JTjIkn
Yes DSG - definately worth reading how the DSG works so you can adjust your driving style to get the best results - the Gbox ECU will queue what it thinks is most likely gear on the alternate cluster and if that is wrong then gear change time goes from ~50ms to ~500+ms and with the delay it...
I had the same experience installing a Revo intake - IME the aftermarket systems have limited R&D and are focussed on best performance with little focus on damping unwanted noise from harmonics/dynamic changes etc. The turbo controls air ingest and the volume of air is metered so no reason to...
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