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without modifcation you are limited to just over 50mm speaker depth in a b5 im afraid any more than this and you will have problems with the electric windows going up and down properly

take a few pictures of the back of the headunit with the wiring you have please should be able to tell you from there

you can use the signal wires from the original oem connector , but they are not shielded from interferance you cannot use the power amplifier or indeed the wiring from the power amplifier as it simply isnt sufficient to run what you have this means you or an installer will need to take apart...

i would give it another month or so , all the manufacturers should be releasing new products within the next few weeks these will have been shown at c.e.s earlier in the year

ideally you only need one sub , more than one will create phasing problems and muddy the music

actually there are 3 live feeds but you only need 2 you need to find the main constant 12 volt output the ignition live which should show roughly halve a volt below the main constant live make sure you are not connected to k line for vag com connection or you could seriously damage...

start with the large flat panels as these are the ones which cause most sound and vibration to be transmitted when doing doors should be inner door skins first (where the speaker mounts ) then the inside of the outer skins there are better things to use than sound deadeneing on the door panels...

you need to check how the video signal is being inputted into the alpine unit and what the output of the video signal is from the iphone

cheap and cheerfull you get what you pay for im afraid

nice job of rebuilding the fascia let me know how you get on with the mirrorlink function as ive heard its a little bit limited

6 metres will be plenty youlll need a couple of metres of earth cable also in the same gauge 5m rca preferably one which is shielded

if your unsure take it too a good local car audio shop if you get it wrong it can cause a real mess

standard amp is barely powerfull enough to drive a normal speaker nevermind a subwoofer the only real way of doing this properly is to install proper power lines , rca,s and proper subwoofer enclosure everything else is a compromise be it sound quality or safety

what is it exactly your thinking of doing ??? do you wish to get another amp and power the entire system or do you simply want to power a subwoofer as well

you need to find whats failed first and foremost it could be the headunit itself the connection from the headunit to the amplifier the amplifier itself or the speakers which its connected to go through them one by one from the top and see which has failed

yes correct in some things you say but a parametric equaliser is far more powefull than a normal graphic a good parametric lets you dial in to an exact frequency so your not limited to a specific band which may well be above or below the actually problem frequency also a parametric equaliser...

check the earths on the car generally its this that is causing the problem

jbl ms8 is an expensive processor and designed for use with much better equipment than factory and if you dont know how to set one up your liable to make it sound worse not better a high to low convertor will still give you noise through the system due to how it works , they are also unreliable...

"if you put crap in... you get crap out" the only way youll change this is by changing the headunit itself yes you can use the original "crappy" input but its unshielded and suffers from noise and isnt particualrly good in the first place ... or you can use an adaptor and run a decent...

The std fit both bose and normal are cheap and not very good Even a cheap aftermarket unit will outperform them