Parrot MKI9200 Ignition sensing cable

McDHibs

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Looking on ebay to get the correct cable to hook up my Parrot MKI9200 and there is a choice of two one has ignition sensing and the other does not with about £15 of a differance between the prices.

So Question which one do I need for my A3 8P 3.2 V6 with Symphony radio.

Sorry in advance if this has been covered before but the search button is throwing up allsorts of threads.

Mike
 
What generation Symphony II do you have?


This one of the newer one?

symphonyII_RDS.jpg
 
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Second one JB0o but have just been through this on another thread and was informed that it was a symphony1.
 
No worries, thats fine then.

Since you have the 1st Gen one you wont need any adapters. You need adapters to convert the connectors at the back of the 2nd gen from Quadlock to ISO. You already have ISO connectors going into the Symphony.

I have the Symphony as well and I connected the Parrot CK3200 without any additional cables than what was in the Parrot box.

I got stuck when I couldn't tap the ignition cable into the radio as it didn't have an ignition feed but so I got a guy out who did it for me, though I have spoke to a guy called Cyrix on here who tapped into the light switch plug to get the ignition feed...
 
Cheers JB0o I will rip it out and have a look if it goes well I will stick up some pics.

Mike
 
Fuses 1-11 are ignition switched.
 
I meant if my concert 2 also has an ISO connector? So I don't have to buy an additional cable.
I am getting my Parrot tomorrow but I won't have time to connect it for at least 2 weeks. In the meantime I could buy the cable (if needed) :)
 
you mat also have a problem with the ipod function, setting up like that will utilise the parrot amp and most likely only plat through the front speakers...if this happens PM me and ill give you the solution
 
Some say, iPod works on all speakers and phone is just through fronts. Some say that also iPod works just through fronts...

I also saw some plug and play cables which are guaranteed to give you all-speaker iPod. But it is additional 50 pounds..
 
depends, if you have the two speakers into the front and an amp feed to your rear bass bin which will also feed to your rears, you'll need to convert.

those leads you talk about will most likely utilise the Parrot amp which is pap and will eventually blow ya speakers as theres far too much top end! if you only get ipod through the fronts then you need to buy this
Connects2 CTVADX002 - Audi A2 / A3 / A4 / TT 2006> Aux Adapter CTVADX002 by Connects2 - Low Cost Car Audio secure online shop

Same price for quadlock or ISO.... make sure you select the right one though as they are both different :) you then find an old set of phonos and chop them, strip the cables and connect to the line outs on the parrot loom. This will utilise the HU amp - you still connect the iso/quad cables for the phone integration..... simple once you have it in front of you
 
Bose upgrade is fully amped for all speakers (amp is behind the right hand panel in the boot), non-bose has the fronts off of the HU and rears from a small amp that is on the sub in the boot (behind the left hand boot panel).

Paul
 
more than likely in my experience yes, they will be fronts and amp feed....

yeah if thats what it says regards utilising the HU amp - there were a few out there that used the parrot IIRC. Either or though, £27 versus £70 for the sake of splitting two phonos on a terminal block...no brainer to me ;)

I did this install and learnt the hard way on a Symphony II unit on my 8L S3
 
Bose upgrade is fully amped for all speakers (amp is behind the right hand panel in the boot), non-bose has the fronts off of the HU and rears from a small amp that is on the sub in the boot (behind the left hand boot panel).

Paul

correct, wiring the way I have said will fit both....
 
Thanks guys!
I was just in my car and you (and I) were correct. Fronts are connected to HU, others go to the amp.
Anyways... is this the item I must order? Since I have ISO with concert? Connects2 CTVADX001 Aux Adapter - Audi CTVADX001 by Connects2 - Low Cost Car Audio secure online shop
Also there is still the problem with the ignition feed... I don't have any idea where to connect it. Is there a way to connect it to climate unit?

-edit-
Where do I connect the MUTE wire? And which MUTE wire (nr. 1, 2 or 3)?
 
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yep that looks like the one, dont forget a spare phono lead to chop up....

the mute wire is trial and error, get someone to call you whilst the musics on and try all three in the mute pin, if it doesnt have a plug in it already i just used a single spade....

and my ignition feed on the 8L was on a live strip under the steering wheel, not sure where they are best taken from on these, follow NHN's suggestion above and wack a multimeter across the points if i were you, truning the ginition on/off as you go
 
always tastes better from across the water...muches gracias n cheers! :)
 
Has anyone tried taking or splitting the 12V feed from the ciggy lighter
 
chuck the mutlimeter across the live and see if it acts on ignition or not...simples
 
Well started installing the parrot and first surprise was when I took off the cover for the fuse board first thing I see is a mini USB cable stuffed in the space, I pulled it out and an aftermarket 12V socket pops out with the other end of the USB cable plugged into it as you would with your ciggy lighter, so who ever had the car before me did a mod to get a feed to his TOM TOM. So I turn the ignition on and the light on the plug comes on, turn the ignition off the light stays on take the key out the light goes out. "PERFECT" that's my 12v feed sorted for the parrot, spliced the cable up and got it through to the back of the radio touched the live on to the 12V ignition feed of the parrot and the screen burst into life just need to get it all back into the dash and do 1animal1s mod for the rear speakers and all will be done.
 
Just got the mute wire working as none of the 3 options offered by the parrot loom worked, I cut down a spade connector and cut the end off the parrot mute cable and crimped it up and connected it to pin 1 on the 10 pin ISO plug that is not used on the back of the radio and its working like a dream.

Check out this instal on the web as it shows the pin map.

OOOO-A3: Bluetooth Phone Kit With Concert II Radio Integration
 
OK... I need a little help :)
Yesterday I began installing my Parrot... first thing's first, I successfully installed the mic to light cluster on the roof... all went well, except the half broken tweeter grill... but I managed to fix it :)
Now I am really stuck with getting an ignition feed. I am not really comfortable with splitting up cables under the dash. So I thought I would get an add-a-circuit fuse, but I can't source them here in Slovenia. The second thought was, to connect it to 12V socket (for garmin, phone power etc.), but I don't have smoke-pack in my car, so my one and only 12V socket is by the handbrake.
Now the problem is, how to lift up the center console, so I can get to the cables...

Thanks!
 
You're better of tapping into the fusebox & using a new position spare on fuses 1-11 as these are ignition switched, using others may create to much current this pop goes the fuse, may not, but have to advise of the pitfalls of tapping other circuits designed for specific currents.
 
Thanks... so I can just connect into one of the 1-11 empty fuses without an additional fuse? An 5A fuse is present directly on the cable of the Parrot loom.
 
No you need to fit a repair wire at the rear & connect your parrot or said item to that tail then fit a fuse at front, therefore it has its own supply & maybe use this wire for a few devices should you need, making sure the wires used support the current of devices in total & a bit more.
 
Dont use the cigarette lighter as its a permanent 12v and will drain the battery (well it is on mine any way) try plugging something in that has a light on it like a usb adapter without the keys in the ignition and see if the light comes on if it does its a permanent live. I was lucky as someone else who owned the car before me already split an ignition feed for their sat nav so I just ponced off that but feel free to ask anything else as mine is working a treat.
 
Thanks to both of you!
Permanent 12V is already present at the ISO connector, so another permanent is not an option, since that would mean, the Parrot will be always on. I thought the 12V socket is switched power. Anyhow I connected directly in the slot 9 on the drivers side fuse box. As I said in the previous post, Parrot loom comes with 5A fuse directly on the cable (one for the permanent 12V and another for switched 12V). I lenghtened the Parrot loom and voila... Everything works fine.
Except the rear speakers... I ordered the loom about 2 weeks ago and it didn't arrive. I contacted support at LowCostCarAudio, and they explained that courier lost my package. So they instantly sent another one. Now I wait...

Just another question to McDHibs... did you manage to fit all the looms behind the climate control and radio unit? It seems pretty stuffed with just Parrot loom in place...
 
I did get it all behind the Radio and climate unit but it was a total b*gger I didn't use a third party loom only the Parrot loom but as I want to do 1animal1's mod for the rear speakers I will have to move something as it took about 6 goes to get the head unit to go back in fully so when I add the Connects2 unit Ive no chance of getting it back in.

Im thinking of putting it above the glove box as there seems to be a bit more room.
 
I got it right the second time... without the connects2 loom. Maybe if I am lucky I will be able to fit it all behind... But it will be crowded behind. :)
 
I listened today to the parrot sound and I must say it sound like sh*t... Sorry for use of words, but I can't wait to receive the connects2 loom...
It really lacks definition in the sound... it seems like everything is flat... Equalizer is there just for an option, it seems like it does nothing.
 
Ok guys... I finally connected the Connects2 loom, and everything works, but not as expected.

Obviously I have to set my HU to CD changer for music to work through all speakers and I had to disconnect the phone-mute wire from the HU. If I'd left it in, the Parrot sends phone-mute signal to the HU and system only works through fronts.
So after I disconnected the phone-mute wire, there was something funny with the loudness of the speakers (compared back to front)... And obviously I had to disconnect the Parrot loom for front speakers (so my front speakers are directly connected to the HU). So all the sound goes through the Connects2 loom. Everything OK, until I receive a phone call and my HU is not set to CD Changer. Since the phone-mute wire is disconnected, and HU is set to something other than CD Changer, there is no way the system would notify me, I have a call waiting (except for the Parrot screen).
Is there a way to bypass this problem? I didn't find any Parrot options that would fix my problems... Any thoughts on that? Did I connect everything correctly?