Do new clutchs have a break-in point?

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tdia4

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Had a new clutch (Black Diamond) and flywheel fitted yesterday and i'm getting clutch slip in 3rd 4th and 5th.

The clutch is a Black Diamond, which says it handles a extra 20-25% of torque over standard and the flywheel is a DMF LUK.

Been back to the garage this morning and he said to leave it a week or so and drive it steady to let the new clutch break-in.

I have had a look on google and quite a few people have said that their clutches slipped and had to be broken it and within 100-200miles the clutch had a stop grab and was working fine.
 
Just take it easy for a while and change gear earlier. When I had my kevlar stage 4 clutch fitted I had to break it in for the first 1000 miles and that was meant to include a lot of stop start traffic. It can create problems if the clutch face gets glazed by too much slipping
 
Cheers for the reply, I'll take it easy for awhile and see if it stops it slipping, because it shouldn't slip because it's new, along with the flywheel, so it's either because it needs breaking in or the mechanic has got abit of oil on it which should burn off in time.
 
As above, maybe the clutch wasn't cleaned quite good enough and had a bit of oil on. Easily done.
 
never had a new clutch slip on me
but they do need bedding in
 
Only thing I can think of is that it must be a bit of oil on the clutch somewhere, I'll just take it easy for a week or so and see what it's like then, if no improvement I'll take it back to be looked at.
 
I would be concerned if its slipping badly.Any slight flim should burn off quickly any more could contaminate longer
 
Ive never had or heard of a brand new clutch slip, Shouldn't do that, not unless it was not cleaned before it was fitted, as sometimes they put a film of oil on the clutch plate to prevent corrosion. Did you have your dmf changed at the same time and release bearing? I take it the old clutch was slipping b4?
 
something telling me you going to have worse problems if you dont ivestigate it now, new clutch should not slip in any shape or form. they bed in virtually the first few take offs if cleaned correctly with a solvent cleaner / brake spray etc...... any decent mechanic will tell you the same...... take it back and refuse to drive it and get it sorted out......mines going in monday yipee
 
Yeah it was new DMF, new clutch, new pressure plate and new release bearing.

Old clutch was slipping yeah in 4th and 5th and the DMF was well past it's best.

I'm unsure if it's the mechanic at fault or a dodgy clutch, if the clutch wasn't cleaned with a solvent cleaner does that burn off in time?
 
well the grease can form a very oilly glue sticky affect which i still wouldnt of thought you'd get a slipping clutch, slipping clutches obviously caused by low meat on the disc and the pressure plate going weak and worn flywheel so with a new dmf / pressure plate the pressure is lots stronger so loads less chance of any slipping id say it needs to be stripped and investigated a little more how many miles you done since fitted
 
i would take it back
and get them to strip it down asap
if you leave it a few weeks they could say its down to your driveing
 
Only done 24 miles on the clutch, the garage does know it's still slipping, I went back the next morning to tell them it was, he said to drive it steady for a few days, Going to give it that and if it's still the same i'm going to take it back.
 
Right, I've now got 80miles on the new clutch and it is still slipping, all of that was town driving to try and break it in.

I've spoke to the clutch company and they said I'm running to much power for it??? Don't get this seeing as the standard clutch held for 8k with the map on and this one that's in now is said to hold a extra 20-25% of power and I only have to have 1/4 throttle in 4th and it will slip at around 2k so it can't be the clutch not able to take the power.

Only thing I've really noticed it that after the bit of freeplay in the clutch pedal it bites like straight away.

So any ideas what it could be? Grease/oil on clutch, sticking slave cylinder maybe? Any other ideas?
 
Sorry to hear you are still having problems, I wouldn't stand for what the garage has told u, sounds like they are passing the blame on elsewhere, how can they be 100% sure its not something they have done incorrectly, faulty parts? . the only way to be sure is to take the box out and get the clutch an everything else re-inspected carefully. A standard clutch should take a fair bit of stick before it starts slipping.Do u know exactly how much power you are putting through the clutch? Its still difficult to say whats causing it, but i would say contamination of the clutch disc, does the clutch judder at all when taking up drive? The only other thing i can think of is maybe they put some grease on the input shaft to ease fitting, too much grease will get onto the clutch disc and cause slipping Ive seen this before a while back.
 
i think they have ****ed up or faulty parts
but cos you have a map on there and they know you do there not gona help you

if they wont check it for free then i would pay a good garage to remove and inspect not a back street garage tho get a report on the fault and take it from there
 
id imagine it's 160-180bhp 270-280lb/ft (130tdi mapped).... i would say theres a issue with a faulty clutch plate or theres somethink adrift inside the clutch jamming somethink... usually clutch biting low means theres air in the system but that wont make clutch slip at all, ive seen in my time the clutch disc fitted backwards eith the stubby bit fouling flywheel stopping full contact ill have a look at my new one in the min see if it can be done
 
Cheers for the replys.

Yeah I am getting abit of juddering just before it starts slipping, did a test in 3rd tonight and it starts slipping a around 2k untill 2.5k, if i go past these revs with a light foot though and then floor it, it will then hold in 3rd through to redline.
 
anyhows m8 it will need the box pulling out and further investigation may be better to find someone else to do it.... if the original fitters was ***** they'd get it in straight away without fob stories,
 
Going to take it back Monday and get them to sort it, 1st and 2nd gear are fine all the way through, just 3rd onwards.
 
Really hope u can get this sorted, i totally agree with what the guys have said, Juddering and slipping is certainly not right, juddering is normally a sign of clutch contamination / clutch not fitted 100% central. The power and torque you say sound fine and a std clutch should take it , not slip straight away anyways. I had a golf gt 130 prior to my audi and it was mapped with similar specs you are saying ( maybe a little less) and i had to change the clutch as it started to slip after a bit, took the old one out and it only looked about half worn, new std genuine clutch fitted, no slip whatsoever , did about 15k on the clutch , with no probs. keep us posted to how you get on , Just out of interest , have you contaced black diamond to see if they say if fitting their clutch will make the pedal feel any different? I haven't had any experience with black diamond clutches tbh, only their brakes which are very good:yes:
 
audi upgrades
Booked back in at the garage tomorrow afternoon, having the slave cylinder checked out first, if not that the box is coming back off to see what's going on.
 
Update: slave cylinder and all are in perfect working order.

My mechanic can only pin point it to being a duff clutch.

The company have agreed to refund me for the clutch when I send it back to them, but they will not cover me for the labor cost.

Now I am £250 out of pocket, the clutch company are saying they are not liable for it etc.

I do feel this is rather unfair as the £250 could have gone on something useful, when I send the clutch back do you think I should write a letter with it asking for them out of good will to give me some sort of store credit or something like that? Not quite sure how to word it though.
 
well if the garage you used supplied the clutch then they would have dont the labour for free
but giveing them the clutch you dont stand a chance of geting either of them to pay
just the way it goes
thats why i always get the garage to buy the clutch in to my spec then im coverd
i know it costs a few quid more but when something like this happens its well worth the extra
 
just had mine back from the the dmf, clutch, rear main seals, rear gear box mount, even had a new turbo whilst it was in.... labour costs was £300 all in drove out and what a difference to the chuggery old clutch pulling off...... good luck m8 but as stated you wont get thje labour money paid for
 
Yeah the other clutch I've got is from the garage this time.

Lesson learnt that things like this should be got from the garage.
 
like you said it's worth seeing if you can get some money back from them you dont try you'll never know.... but that's only if the clutch is to blame m8..... just hope when the box comes out there's somethink apparent you never know you may come across the clutch not cleaned of properly or somethink wedged in causing your fault then the labour will have to be free...... who's doing the work m8 and were did you purchase the clutch from
 
marktdisport said:
just had mine back from the the dmf, clutch, rear main seals, rear gear box mount, even had a new turbo whilst it was in.... labour costs was £300 all in drove out and what a difference to the chuggery old clutch pulling off...... good luck m8 but as stated you wont get thje labour money paid for
Click to expand...

How much did a new turbo set you back?
 
Garage near where I live did it for me.

Clutch was from madmotors and was a stage 1 black diamond.

Is yours a 5 or 6 speed? Guessing clutch and that is all good now?
 
5 speed m8 and yeah all good thanks......turbo was cheap m8 lol
 
Really hope mine is back to normal after monday, 180 miles of driving like a old woman is way to painful.
 
Valeo clutch fitted yesterday........perfect.
 
nice 1 jack glad it's sorted now get on to black diamond and squeze some goodies from them m8
 
They will pay the £150 back for the clutch, I want that money in my pocket though before going any further with them.

Once I have that money back I'm going to try push to get the £250 it cost for fitting, if that doesn't work then maybe try for some store credit.
 
Hi All,

How much did it cost to have the clutch and DMF done? Audi are doing a fixed price for non-quattro @ £650....
 
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