Rear brake caliper piston????

Paradox1

Paradox1

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Decided to change my rear pads and disk today. all was going well until trying to wind back the caliper piston......it just spins and doesnt go back into the caliper.

any ideas???
 
Yep... you need the proper windy in tool... about 15 quid from halfrauds...

<tuffty/>
 
Halfrauds have kumped on the bandwagon and now charge £32.99 for the tool. Here.
 
audi upgrades
yeah i got one of ebay which looks the same as most.

just had a thought,would this have anything to do with having my handbrake on........:banghead:
 
epic%20fail.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
right made another attempt.seems the caliper tool doesnt sit inside the caliper. as if the piston is pushed out too far of the windy tool adapter is to thick!

i unscrewed the brake cap in the engine bay aswell.

to make thinks worse my mate came round to help because hes "done it loads of times"

he went and pumped the brake pedal several times, now its gone stiff!! so he has been sent home

bad to worse!
 
The tool I use is not the best fit but it does work... just have to persevere mate... my A4 rear calipers wound in dead easy with pliers... sat there for 20mins with my S3 ones... took less than a minute with the tool... :/

<tuffty/>
 
Um, That links the wrong tool.. Its a left hand thread for Mondeo's and newish Peugeots.
You need a standard thread wind back tool.

But it sounds like you have pushed the piston out now.. hence why its gone stiff.
Youll need to to support the centre piston whilst applying pressure (g clamp or similar), and use some grips/large pliers and wind the piston back (clockwise) enough to get the (correct) wind back tool in.
 
Looks similar to the one I use... I don't use it with the plate though...

Did the pedal go firm while the engine was off? start the engine and it will go back to normal... this is by design as the servo is designed to hold some vacuum in case the engine stalls while you are moving and gives you some braking left... the pedal will go progressively harder as the vacuum disappears..

<tuffty/>
 
cheers bud,i'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. if not i think i'll be paying your petrol to come save me lol
 
The one posted above is a LEFT HAND thread.. it wont work on any VAG vehicle.. it will try to wind the piston out rather than in.
 
Have you tried pumping the piston out fully, well near max before trying to rewind? I've had the same issue in the past and always found using the handbrake lever to extend the piston then rewinding works.
 
Shut it you lol first attempt hehe.

Thanks for the advice guys, ill let you know in the morning
 
audi upgrades
Good luck reminds of changing my front calipers and discs haha, gave Tuffty a billion messages haha
 
Cheers, don't worry, if it doesn't work ill hunt him down and kidnap him. Lock him in a room until I have all his knowledge....could take a while
 
right so after nearly losing the will i finally managed to get the caliper back in,pads greased up and ready to go. now the brake pedal is still hard and the handbrake doesnt work. another friend(not the one who pressed the pedal when the cap was open) said if i undo the nipple on the caliper, it should spray out, when it starts to dripple,it means the air is out the system.is this right?
 
Its really a 2 man job one goes inside and hard on the brake and the other undoes the nipple if it shoots out then theres no air there imediately, do nipe up before comming off brake and repeat a few times, if it doesnt spray then theres air in there, it usually comes out in bursts like fluid... nothing... Fluid... Nothing.... Have you tried running the engine and then pushing the brakes? Servo assistance, also it might take a few handbrake pulls and braking with servo to wind out the rear adjusters, they sounded stiff going in so will be stiff comming out, persevere mate :) hope it helps
 
Thanks Lewis, so both rear pads and disks are changed. Turn on the engine and the brake pedal went to the floor, then I got a light on the clocks saying stop. The brakes were still working though. I'm going to see if I can get some brake fluid then I will try your 2 man brake bleed method. I'll get there in the end. Big **** of for such a simple job ey lol
 
Paradox1 said:
Thanks Lewis, so both rear pads and disks are changed. Turn on the engine and the brake pedal went to the floor, then I got a light on the clocks saying stop. The brakes were still working though. I'm going to see if I can get some brake fluid then I will try your 2 man brake bleed method. I'll get there in the end. Big **** of for such a simple job ey lol
Click to expand...

Don't do the pump the pedal and wait for it the hit the floor method as you can damage the seals... use a pressure bleeder like the Eezi Bleed kit from Gunsons.. don't forget to do the master cylinder if yours has bleed nipples on...

<tuffty/>
 
After a long day my cat is now back on the road,thanks again to all who gave advice. Once the pads and disks were back on the pedal fell to the floor and I got a light on the dash saying STOP. I bleed the rear caliper that I messed up on and now all is fine.pedal isn't as firm as it used to be but I put in down to the new pads. Feels a lot better. I'm happy with it for the meantime. I will buy a ezi bleed kit and some motul brake fluid, which I will do in a week or two. Thanks again for all your help
 
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