There was a thread I read that the one nozzle is just after ic and the other one is in the TIP just before turbo.... Don't know how effective it is but apparently turbo runs cooler to?
Why the manual tensioner,, because of stroker?
well you could make it looks like pauls engine bay and have over 400bhp to lol
he dont have any of that stuff to worry about here i dont even have a cat lmao
so how the hell do they get by with 1fz patrols kicking out 1000hp with blowers that wont even fit under the bonnet??
Whos this tuffy fella you keep on about? sounds almost as OCD as me ;P
<tuffty/>
Why the manual tensioner,, because of stroker?
Manual tensioner is better for engines that are built to rev high, have heavy valve trains (supertech valves and springs for example) and cams (or any combo of aforementioned parts..) stiffer springs, big *** cams and high revs all load the cam drive system up much more than std... this can lead to the tensioner damper compressing under load potentially slackening the belt and allowing it to slip teeth... this of course is bad...
Also worth doing on a build like that is doweling the crank pulley (keyway is pretty weak) and using an ARP bolt on the cam pulley (plus the little IE friction washer)...
All helps make it a more reliable engine when tuning to this level
<tuffty/>
You should start your own range of auto car products, you can call it........
Tuffy Clean, its not clean till you Tuffied it
<tuffty/>
back in the day. before I got here, no one really cared about speed limits.
When I got here you were still allowed to go 160km/h on the freeway without getting a speeding fine. Then once again, idiots driving at 160 in the fog, had a 56 car pile up on the freeway. Now you can do 140km/h legally, even though they have road signs that say the speed limit is 120km/h.
Yeah can see it would be a lot easier than the dreaded pin...it does look a bit more gypsy than OEM TBH...because it looks pretty
I have also found it makes changing the cambelt a crap load easier, especially with the engine in the car. The OEM tensioner is for gypsies
Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...Manual tensioner is better for engines that are built to rev high, have heavy valve trains (supertech valves and springs for example) and cams (or any combo of aforementioned parts..) stiffer springs, big *** cams and high revs all load the cam drive system up much more than std... this can lead to the tensioner damper compressing under load potentially slackening the belt and allowing it to slip teeth... this of course is bad...
Also worth doing on a build like that is doweling the crank pulley (keyway is pretty weak) and using an ARP bolt on the cam pulley (plus the little IE friction washer)...
All helps make it a more reliable engine when tuning to this level
<tuffty/>
You should come to Australia, I just got a $200 fine for going 67km/h in 60km/h area
Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...
Did you just change your user name, or have I had it wrong all this time.
God damn.....what a mind feck
been 't u f f t y' all my life more or less dude...
<tuffty/>
Yeah can see it would be a lot easier than the dreaded pin...it does look a bit more gypsy than OEM TBH...
Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...
Yeah can see it would be a lot easier than the dreaded pin...it does look a bit more gypsy than OEM TBH...
Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...
We did, just didnt know there was or could be a problem with the standard one when the power is upped thats all ,, everyday is a school day Bill...Somehow we all managed to use manual tensioners without any issues on older 16v, 8v motors, and now its deemed "difficult"?
man up Dave.. lol
Nice work dude... good idea
<tuffty/>