Shame about the grill, they are usually so hard to get hold of.
Looks quite cool and unique with the tint, do the indicators come through amberish? That's the only thing that puts me off... although mine are black now so no chance of then going red
What did I do to my B6 S4 today? I sold it, I think it's fair to say the seller put one over on me, not being a mechanic, and there were several things that came to light after I'd bought it that any scrupulous dealer would have sorted out prior to sale. I fell out of love with the car and once that happened it was time to bite the bullet, suck up the loss and move on so i'm back in the Mercedes fold with an R230 SL.View attachment 151793
What did I do to my B6 S4 today? I sold it, I think it's fair to say the seller put one over on me, not being a mechanic, and there were several things that came to light after I'd bought it that any scrupulous dealer would have sorted out prior to sale. I fell out of love with the car and once that happened it was time to bite the bullet, suck up the loss and move on so i'm back in the Mercedes fold with an R230 SL.View attachment 151793
Can you perhaps rig up some kind of smoke tester and blow smoke through the induction system and see where it is leaking?
Most leave the tube in place and put a 1.5mm slip in blank at the base near exhaust manifold .
Looks standard .
No leaks .
Easier to fit as two bolts only require slackening .
Did you have to buy that formed hose or were you able to use generic hose?
Here it is, had a little trouble loading the pic?
It's the pipe that goes from N75 to the turbo where it's attached via a banjo bolt.
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I bought a turbo inlet pipe complete with n75 and all hoses and pipes included.Did you have to buy that formed hose or were you able to use generic hose?
Do you need one, I have a spare?Did you have to buy that formed hose or were you able to use generic hose?
No, I’m good...thanks!Do you need one, I have a spare?
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No it shouldn't be that loose.Replaced lower arm, after I broke it when changing bearing and hub...
Wondering if it’s meant to be this “loose”
It’s torqued down.
I know it’s only held by that metal cylinder, and has a rubber bushing around..
“Old” arm inner bushing
Replaced lower arm, after I broke it when changing bearing and hub...
Wondering if it’s meant to be this “loose”
It’s torqued down.
I know it’s only held by that metal cylinder, and has a rubber bushing around..
“Old” arm inner bushing
It looks to me as if the chassis mount point where the control arm fits in have been spread apart, leaving extra play, the rubber bush should take up the play but there should be no movement between the metal sleeve and the chassis mount point.The one fitted today is new, the one being replaced is about a half year old..
So both “new”
I’m hunting for reasons why the steering wheel has slight judder when braking and hitting 80 kph and down to 50 kph
I agree with quattrocalum, The lower suspension arm bushes rely on their inners being firmly clamped so they can't move - the rubber does the 'twisting' required for the suspension control. Are you sure the bolt is properly tight?