Timing Belt

S3Hendry

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Decided to install the cambelt myself, just save a bit money on labour cost and gain some experience, after a look through Haynes and getting a really good understanding, just one thing left me stumped, the manual mentions removing a single engine mount bracket..

An engine hoist is required to remove the bracket, which I don't have, what would be the best method to remove the bracket without an engine hoist?


:noway:
 
Decided to install the cambelt myself, just save a bit money on labour cost and gain some experience, after a look through Haynes and getting a really good understanding, just one thing left me stumped, the manual mentions removing a single engine mount bracket..

An engine hoist is required to remove the bracket, which I don't have, what would be the best method to remove the bracket without an engine hoist?


:noway:

I usually jack the car up a little on the off side, then put a few wooden blocks under the engine to support its weight.

You leave the gearbox side mount in place, so only half the engines weight is on blocks. Just make sure if you rest the weight on the sump the blocks are wide to spread the load or you will dent it. I have an old scaffold plank cut into short sections that works well.
 
I have just done mine fitting the whole belt kit, was easier than i thought but had everything on the drivers inner wing removed for ease of access, i had the engine supported on a block and jack, then removed the top section of the mount, then undone the engine bracket/mount section, i did not remove this as it was a mare so just fed the new belt inbetween as it runs either side, on fitting the belt i discovered i could not get it stretched on all the pulleys so i fitted it by bolting up the tensioner idler pulley last, made sure the timing marks were still lined up, span engine a few times by hand to double check then once happy pulled the tensioner pin.
 
Ok fellas that makes sense, I'll have the front on stands, so a trolley jack under the sump with a plank of some description will be my solution, myself being a DIY mechanic I only have a limited selection of tools, what I want to know is, are there any tools required that maybe you wouldn't find in my basic tool collection...
 
Deep sockets are handy for undoing the engine mount bolts, and I used tippex to mark the old belt and pullies, then marked the new belt in the same places to ensure I didn't lose the timing.

I checked it against the marks afterwards too of course.

Apart from that, a good torch and a long breaker bar to turn the crank to check timing was the only other thing useful.
 
No special tools mate, unless you are re-using the tensioner then you will need the special tool to re set it, id replace this though along with water pump.....plugs out engine should turn over by hand just using a normal 1/2 ratchet, easy enough only having one cam pulley double check your timing marks job done.
 
It was my plan to do this over the bank holiday weekend, but my plans ground to a halt when I came up against my first hurdle- removing the crankshaft pulley!! Does anyone want to point me in the right direction for removing this stubborn **** pulley? I dont have impact guns obviously, just me and a big *** breaker bar!

How can I remove this pulley with a breaker bar? I know you should replace the crankshaft pulley bolt once you have removed it!


This is the motor I'm trying not to destroy with my shoddy work ha!

http://[URL=http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/audisport6/media/cd4fd245-4ad6-41ba-b3df-c76bdf10cfe2_zps29cca75e.jpg.html][/URL]
 
This is what's giving me nightmares!



Does anyone want shed some light on removing this bolt..

If you have removed this bolt, what procedure did follow?

I don't have a ramp, so access is tight!

Cheerrs
 
You only have to remove the 4 outer Allen key bolts. Don't touch the big centre one.
 
You only have to remove the 4 outer Allen key bolts. Don't touch the big centre one.


Really? Well I feel like a noob! So if I remove the Allen bolts and bolt on a puller tool, it should come off?


Cheers bud
 
Wont need a puller it will fall off, by the looks of them bolts it looks a bit chewed up, they are very tight, make sure the tool goes all the way in..if they slip you will need to chisel them round and get new bolts.
 
Wont need a puller it will fall off, by the looks of them bolts it looks a bit chewed up, they are very tight, make sure the tool goes all the way in..if they slip you will need to chisel them round and get new bolts.


Thanks for the reply, wish I could I agree with you but I removed the Allen bolts and it felt like the pulley was welded on lol I just thought because it was so stiff, the central bolt must be holding it on, and it looks like the flange of the central bolt is blocking the removal of the pulley, but it would appear I was wrong, not for the first time ha!

Thanks for the help lads
 
They can sometimes be a ****** to get off due to a bit off corrosion between the pulley and the crank nose. Make sure the aux drive belt is off and allen key bolts out. Then gently tap it at "9 o clock" on the face with a small hammer then repeat at "3 o clock". Repeat at "12" and "6" and it should loosen up.

I repeat, DO NOT undo the central bolt. :icon_thumright:
 
They can sometimes be a ****** to get off due to a bit off corrosion between the pulley and the crank nose. Make sure the aux drive belt is off and allen key bolts out. Then gently tap it at "9 o clock" on the face with a small hammer then repeat at "3 o clock". Repeat at "12" and "6" and it should loosen up.

I repeat, DO NOT undo the central bolt. :icon_thumright:

I appreciate the advice man, I would be nowhere without you friendly chaps on this forum, Infact I think I would be a whole lot worse off, I probably would have gone ahead and cracked that crank bolt and opened up a can of worms, anyway this weekend my shoddy workmanship will resume and the cambelt will get done! Also water pump, V3 tip and going to give the wheels a plati-dip, then she's getting a tank of v-power!
 

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