2.0 TDI BKD Starting Issues.. (Cold Start)

johal87

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2005/55 BKD 2.0 TDI Audi A3

Been having issues for nearly a year now, and I've kind of had enough, any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Upon a cold start, several hours, or next day, the car struggles to start, it will start been turns for a good while, and then fires up. After running for around 15/20 mins, (warm car), the car will start fine, no issues, until cold again. Ive managed with the car like this for nearly a year, but its now coming to the time I want to upgrade and i really can't sell the car like this.

Last week, the car failed to turn, a good 4/5 times all i heard was a click, and then it turned, and eventually started, again, fine all day, following day, nothing, the car was dead.. battery had full power, everything worked, but would not fire, or turn, just a click from a relay.

Over time i was lead to believe the flywheel was the culprit too the starting issues, and recently, i had started to hear, flywheel 'chatter', i bit the bullet, and brought a new LUK flywheel, and had this changed, and suspected the starter motor had died from stress of trying to turn the flywheel?

When the old flywheel was removed, i was told and shown, that several of the teeth, were messed up and damaged/worn uneven. I took the starter motor to a specialist, who said the starter motor was fine, and tested the unit. Garage phoned me earlier, car started, again delayed start, but it has started. The noted that they think the starter motor might still be faulty, as when they were fitting it, its not tight, something along the lines of, it should be tight and fixed without the bolts, but it wasn't, obviously bolts were going to be used regardless, but they did say it didn't feel right, like it might not be the right unit for the car.

From my experience, it starts quick then before, but the issue is still present. Also the revs flux slightly when cold, noticeable, but not a lot.

Could the starter motor be causing this issue? would it just be on cold? or all the time?

VCDS shows nothing apart from a EGR fault, which is recent, the issue was present well before this.

Does the flywheel need calibrating?

In my time, i have changed;
Intank fuel pump
several coolant temp sensors
full service twice - all filters
flywheel
starter motor (second hand, right part number)
inlet manifold.

Many thanks guys
 
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Well, you have certainly worked hard to solve these problems. If the starter was the wrong type, or loose in any way, then yes it could chew up the flywheel teeth as you have described. A BKD diesel engine does need a very good starter motor, and of course a good battery. To start a diesel engine does need a hell of a lot of energy. When you try to start, the ECU looks at the revs, and if insufficient will not provide enough fuel, she will not fire. The ECU needs to see around 250 rpm before it will deliver the proper amount of fuel. A very common fault of this model is to have a 'lazy' starter motor, or a battery which does not deliver enough 'cold amps'. My suggestions would be first of all to have the battery load-tested to see if it can really deliver the amps. Secondly to try a known-good starter motor. One should never hear a click when trying to start. That in itself could indicate a bad starter/starter solenoid etc. It is very hard to bench-test a starter motor, so as I said, try a known good unit and see what happens. As far as I know, a flywheel itself does not need calibrating. Good luck.
 
Thanks guys,

Upon a cold start this morning..

The car turned slowly, with each turn a sort of bang, also the dash flicked as it normally would with a dead/weak battery, song like a starter?
 
Get the battery load-tested. If the battery checks out OK, then most likely it is the starter motor.
 
Ok,

Changed the starter today for a brand new Bosch unit, and changed the battery too.

The car still struggles to start, but it's not slow anymore, turns a lot faster, and lights don't die either.

I did forget a few months ago I put petrol in, around £20 and then filled it up with diesel and drove on it, car got me around 60 miles struggling to start, and cutting out at lights and struggling again, this ended up killing the starter and I than had to get recovered back, used starter fitted, petrol drained and filled up with diesel, could this have anything to do with it? The original starting issue was still present before this.
 
is that possible with vcds, any links? would that cause a issue when cold only?
 


First Video shows starting from cold. Lights are on due to changing the battery.



Second video, shows the revs moving up and down for no apparent reason after a few minutes of running.
 
I had the same issues (although my car used to start a bit faster than yours). Took the injectors to a certified Bosch service, they fixed them and put them back, works like a charm now.
 
Wow, your first video, with new battery and starter motor, its turning over very nicely. A diesel only need a little fuel to fire, and so it would possibly indicate that fuel is just not getting into the cylinders. I suspect with a pump duse (PD) engine there should be residual fuel in the pumps, at least enough to make it fire within one revolution or two. My engine starts almost instantly. Yes, I would focus on the fuel system, such as injectors, injector loom and possibly fuel pressure. I believe that VCDS can read injector performance and fuel pressure. Also I would take a look at the sensor G28 which measures engine speed, which I think may be located near the flywheel. Another idea would be to look at the ASV/EGR assembly to make sure the ASV is fully open at start up. This often get blocked up with gunge and/or the actuator fails. Good luck.
 
Hi there ..my audi 2.0 tdi had issues after being stood overnight and struggled to start but once started would run all day and start fine after.. then leave 8 hours or so and it struggled to start again..changed fuel pump , relay , battery , starter motor , fuel lines (air and making run back to tank) coolant sensor, cam sensor , crank sensor , cam timing etc etc ..turned out it was the stereo system (audi navplus draining the battery when stood) .. I would recommend if anyone has this issue when the car has been stood to take the negative battery clamp off and put your multimeter to amps and put one lead on the negative lead and one on the post and wait a few minutes.. mine was drawing 5 amps!! Which should read under 1 amp.. took stereo fuse out and it dropped straight away and next say started on the button. I am now going to either put in a kill switch somewhere by the dash or run a relay so stereo inky works on ignition. I hope this helps someone as I spent hundreds of pounds including a other cylinder head!
 
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