Plus One. Take your time and at least wait until it's warmer and less inclement. I know from experience rushing back to the gym too soon after an injury and then simply extending the recuperation time. Definitely not in the same league as having your sternum cracked open but the premise is the same. Hopefully you're recovering well.
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
My local one is trade only, I had a mate order for me on his account. I asked at the time and he seemed to think most are back to trade only. Apparently it’s too much grief selling to the public and not worth the hassle they get from it.
Ah right fair enough. Glad I managed to get the bits I needed when I done the last job on the car then. Could have done with another part from them as the dealers are well pricey. Just been quoted £158 for a cam position sensor! TPS would have been a lot cheaper.
What part numbers injectors did you order in the end Rob.Today was a good day… Finally ordered injectors and RS4 fuel return valve from TPS
I need to organise a set shortly.
Ordered genuine cam position sensor from a place in France,£48. 5 day wait for it to arrive but it's still worked out a lot cheaper than the dealers who quoted £158. Also ordered a new cambelt and tensioner. Even though the one on now isn't even 2k miles old. Better safe than sorry.
In the future maybe try parts in motion or opie oils ,both stock all these parts at sensible prices
Yeah I use parts in motion a lot. Just they didn't have any genuine sensors, I know febi and meyle are meant to be ok but I'd rather not take the chance. You know how these cars react with none genuine sensors. I recently rebuild my head. While I was at it I put a new coolant flange and a new sensor on the back of the head too. None genuine coolant temp sensor. My mpg was down, so put the original sensor back in and I gained 5mpg back on the dis to how it was before.
Fair enough, I’ve never had any issues with Febi or Meyle to be honest , they are the same parts but with the Audi logo removed.
Bilstein have allways been reliable too.
Sometimes it’s easy to assume that because it has the Audi stamp on it nothing else will do, not the case in many instances.
Bilstein have allways been reliable too.
Sometimes it’s easy to assume that because it has the Audi stamp on it nothing else will do, not the case in many instances.
Audi parts have always been way overpriced but most people just accept they need to pay through the nose.
It doesn’t have to be that way.
It doesn’t have to be that way.
I fitted one from opie oils back in march when i did the camchain ,tensioner and adjuster etc.
Good quality and readings are spot on.
£33.95
IN STOCK
Get Fitment DetailsAudi A4 Petrol Estate 2.0 TFSI quattro
QTY:
Add To Basket
Good quality and readings are spot on.
Camshaft Position Sensor | Febi Bilstein 38772
Single£33.95
IN STOCK
Get Fitment DetailsAudi A4 Petrol Estate 2.0 TFSI quattro
QTY:
Add To Basket
Seat parts tend to be on par with Audi and VW , well they share parts across multiple platforms so pricing probably close if not the same.
Yeah I'd take a punt usually on easily accessable parts but this is the camshaft sensor, behind the timing belt which you have to take off to do the job properly so I didn't want to chance it. Sick of doing this cambelt lol
You can replace the sensor without removing the cambelt, unless you are doing belt aswell.
On the 1.9 tdi single cam yes you can but mine is the 2.0 tdi twin cam so the belt has to come off. You can do it a bodge way by cutting the wire and threading it through them resoldering it but I ain't doing that. I just want to get this job over and done with once and for all without having to faff about with it again longer down the line. Trust me I've done my research, belt has to come off to do it properly
You can smash a bit of the rear of the cam cover off as well to do it without taking the belt of but again, I'm not doing that.
Genuine Ko4 Injectors 2.0 TFSi
EA113 S3/TT
06F 906 036 F
I’d been waiting for the last couple of years to see if I could get them cheaper, plus other stuff kept taking priority. Also they never come up secondhand. I want to sort the big turbo before summer and with the fuel return valve I’ll have all the parts ready to go now.
Ok, i was under the impression you had a TFSI hence my reply.
will keep in mind you have a diesel for future ref.
Too much to be honest, but I’ve been procrastinating with this for too long now and want to get it sorted.
Just over £800 delivered with the fuel valve
Just over £800 delivered with the fuel valve
Worth buying 2nd hand, an ultrasonic cleaner and rebuild kit with o-rings and pintles?
I used a drill and some more flap wheels, starting with 40 grit and used a bit of sponge behind the flap wheel to keep the 'dust' down before using 80 grit, 120 grit and then finally a microfibre cloth wrapped round the flap wheel with some brasso to polish it up a bit.
I also then used the same microfibre cloth on the flap wheel and a bit more brasso on the throttle body.
There's bit more to go on the turbo inlet then I'll remove the turbo muffler, drain the oil out (as I'm sure there'll be some) and smooth that out a bit too.
I know it won't give any more power but it should allow the turbo to spool up quicker.
If it runs as well over the next couple of weeks, I could be tempted to buy a second hand one, then rebuild it with a hybrid cartridge or stick with the old one just replacing the seals etc with the rebuild kit. And then whilst it's off, take my time to really port the inlet and the outlet as well as the inside getting rid of the imperfections and casting marks. If you zoom in on the 2nd image you can see how poor it is in there.
I also then used the same microfibre cloth on the flap wheel and a bit more brasso on the throttle body.
There's bit more to go on the turbo inlet then I'll remove the turbo muffler, drain the oil out (as I'm sure there'll be some) and smooth that out a bit too.
I know it won't give any more power but it should allow the turbo to spool up quicker.
If it runs as well over the next couple of weeks, I could be tempted to buy a second hand one, then rebuild it with a hybrid cartridge or stick with the old one just replacing the seals etc with the rebuild kit. And then whilst it's off, take my time to really port the inlet and the outlet as well as the inside getting rid of the imperfections and casting marks. If you zoom in on the 2nd image you can see how poor it is in there.
Attachments
Nice day today so finally got to replace my driver's side window regulator for a new one as the old one had broke. No more opening the drivers door at drive thru. Happy days lol
Decided to do somethin g about my dirty undercarriage 
Been wanting to do this for a while now and started off as a test on my wife's impreza as hers is an import and as such no underseal or protection from our harsher climate and penchant for salting the roads. So looked into Lanoguard and bought enough to do two cars.
Her car is absolutely mint underneath ( namely because we keep it SORN over the winter and under cover ) but it was still dirty . So using an underbody lance extension on my Kranzle and some APC/degreaser soon cleaned everything up nicely. Then a liberal coating of Lanoguard and it now, after a week, has a lovely layer of protection. Now onto the RS. A bit more involved as this car has more undertrays than any car I have had before ( one is even missing ) so off they came first and got thoroughly cleaned up.
At this point ( and only on the RS ) I discovered a new undertray ( top left in this photo ) which is not on my S Line but of course it hides the DRC system.. that was interesting to find.
Car had been jacked up by the diff at this point so gave a ton of access under there.
Then the repeat of cleaning and jet wash and the air blower to remove any water hiding and to get it dry for the Lanoguard. Really easy to apply with the extended spray nozzle and gave it a damn good coating. Motor grease applied with a brush on any rust prone areas . All undertrays refitted and car left to cure for a few days. Then jacked up the front and did under the engine and suspension/gearbox etc.
Should be good for 10 months or so.
Next job will be to remove the side skirts/blades as they are another area of grime build up but thats for another day.
And at some point I will tackle the S Line and do the same.
Been wanting to do this for a while now and started off as a test on my wife's impreza as hers is an import and as such no underseal or protection from our harsher climate and penchant for salting the roads. So looked into Lanoguard and bought enough to do two cars. Her car is absolutely mint underneath ( namely because we keep it SORN over the winter and under cover ) but it was still dirty . So using an underbody lance extension on my Kranzle and some APC/degreaser soon cleaned everything up nicely. Then a liberal coating of Lanoguard and it now, after a week, has a lovely layer of protection. Now onto the RS. A bit more involved as this car has more undertrays than any car I have had before ( one is even missing ) so off they came first and got thoroughly cleaned up.
At this point ( and only on the RS ) I discovered a new undertray ( top left in this photo ) which is not on my S Line but of course it hides the DRC system.. that was interesting to find.
Car had been jacked up by the diff at this point so gave a ton of access under there.
Then the repeat of cleaning and jet wash and the air blower to remove any water hiding and to get it dry for the Lanoguard. Really easy to apply with the extended spray nozzle and gave it a damn good coating. Motor grease applied with a brush on any rust prone areas . All undertrays refitted and car left to cure for a few days. Then jacked up the front and did under the engine and suspension/gearbox etc.
Should be good for 10 months or so.
Next job will be to remove the side skirts/blades as they are another area of grime build up but thats for another day.
And at some point I will tackle the S Line and do the same.
No its a double lance kind of extension that fits onto the standard gun with the last bit angled upwards. It sprays a pattern but you have to push and pull it backwards manually. bit of an effort but then it is not that often I use it
Not much really gave it a wash, a rinse and the old shammy leather dry... and yesterday i booked the car in for the recall. basically got told it'll take them about 3 hours to open it up and check if i have the affected passengers airbag ignitor... if it is than it'll take a total of 3 days as they have to remove so much and built it back up. I wasn't impressed.
3 days, that sounds bonkers.
I find it hard to understand the wildly varying time frames to do the fix.
When I discussed this with audi they said it was only a 2 -3 hour job tops on the B7.
I think I need to chat with Audi UK on this to get a proper repair time frame, they must know so why the varying time frames are being quoted.
I find it hard to understand the wildly varying time frames to do the fix.
When I discussed this with audi they said it was only a 2 -3 hour job tops on the B7.
I think I need to chat with Audi UK on this to get a proper repair time frame, they must know so why the varying time frames are being quoted.
If it does turn out to be a massive job I'll be making sure it's done to the same standard of workmanship that would be given to a new car, age is irrelevant in this sort of case.
Old is no excuse to bodge a job or be careless with someone elses car.
Old is no excuse to bodge a job or be careless with someone elses car.
I think the 2-3 hours is them scanning the car to see if it has the defective part. Obviously it doesn’t take 2-3 hours to scan the car, just the time slot they allocate.
The 2-3 days quoted will be the actual pulling the car apart and doing the fix.
Just hope mines not affected as I haven’t got the time off to keep going back and forth.
The 2-3 days quoted will be the actual pulling the car apart and doing the fix.
Just hope mines not affected as I haven’t got the time off to keep going back and forth.
yeah that is what it is.. i got the recal letter and according to that it's a 2 hour job if the car is affected... the scan should take less than 10 minutes a car.. but here is the catch according to the info the person gave me they will pull the dash to make sure since it's a safety device that if effected basically could act like a grenate and explode with some damaging metal parts flying every where. So mweh we shall see how it goes mine is booked in for the 28th this month.. can't wait for it and going back and forth isn't an option. If they have to do it, it can take up to 3 days (aka the apprentences are doing the work) it takes me 4 hours by mysef without the aid of a lift to remove dash and put it back... so the 2 hours with the aid of the right tools is when it's done by someone who has done it before... I guess the people dealing with the change will be coached to do it by just 1 master mechanic. I shall take pictures of the lot before they get the car.
well if they are going to pull the dash they can fit at their cost a new glovebox latch, GPS sensor, make sure all the head unit wiring is refitted correctly, along with the boost gauge etc.
From my understanding, as the fault is Audi's and its a legal recall, they are required to reinstate the car to the same condition as it was before being left with them and that includes any parts that are not audi too such as HU, sensors etc etc.
From my understanding, as the fault is Audi's and its a legal recall, they are required to reinstate the car to the same condition as it was before being left with them and that includes any parts that are not audi too such as HU, sensors etc etc.
The whole thing bothers me, I mean if a car does indeed have a defective module, the work involved seems like a lot. A lot to go wrong thereafter....rattles, loose stuff, trim damage, new faults suddenly popping up.
I can't help but smell a hint of bodgit and leggit - I don't mean on purpose but most main dealers now don't have a huge amount of really good careful techs. I should imagine many a job like this will go to the apprentices - and yes they have to learn, but can anyone see what I mean?
I can't help but smell a hint of bodgit and leggit - I don't mean on purpose but most main dealers now don't have a huge amount of really good careful techs. I should imagine many a job like this will go to the apprentices - and yes they have to learn, but can anyone see what I mean?
I'll see how they get on, as said i'm taking a **** load of pictures before they get it... and take pictures of how i left it with them (with the date and time stamp). Because if i can remove the dash and put it back without any extra rattles etc an apprentice should be able to do it too.
