Prism rods now rifle drilled!?

picture shown is either not of the rods advertised (be wary) or they are not rifle drilled.. None evident in the pictures..
 
Then
Arp 2000 bolts add £63
or Generic rod bolts add £18 (lolz)

ZRP also now do rifle drilled rods with ARP bolts for £400.

Quality control and seller back up unknown....
 
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I nearly spat my coffee out all over my keyboard....!!!!...

THAT is the biggest pile of actual rubbish I have seen in a looooooooong time lol... anyone fitting these would be better off not bothering using oil in the engine at all... it would be a more dignified end ;)

<tuffty/>
 
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Never known a design to try and lube the wrong side of the bearing?

As Andrew said holes aren't center so not for riflle drilling and any oil splashing in from outside will just be on the wrong side of the bearing?

Not worth the effort and risk when can get good quality rifle drilled rods for £450
 
Oil wouldn't go any where near any bearing ever with that drilling... all its done it weaken the rod... which quite frankly looks weaker than others on the market anyway

...and because the exchange rate is getting worse the cost of rods over here is going up...

<tuffty/>
 
Was only saying if that hole is right through the rod you would get a splash of oil through onto the wrong side of the bearing on back of the shell.

If it is what it looks like then as you say has no function other than weakening an weight reduction lol

Exchange rate is really messing things up! Bring back the day when the US dollar was nearly 2:1
 
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Just taking advantage of people then, thanks for the heads up... Ie for me then
..
 
The oil hole on the rod will squirt oil to the underside of the piston. But the 1.8t already has oil jets so why bother drilling that way..

Ford use this as a cheap way to cool the underside of the piston before the fitted oil jets.

1.8t need oil feed to the small end.

Get rods from Bill or Stacey.
 
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As above, do it right the first time and save yourself the heartache and expense of doing it twice. There are times when you have to spend money to get it right.
 
The jury for some is still out on the other offerings (like ZRP & DM), they have a weird oil groove in the small end and it looks like it takes the oil away from were it needs to be. This has been suggested to cause the small end rattle like those seen with non drilled forged rods.

There's no need for the oil groove so why they use one who knows.
 
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The jury for some is still out on the other offerings (like ZRP & DM), they have a weird oil groove in the small end and it looks like it takes the oil away from were it needs to be. This has been suggested to cause the small end rattle like those seen with non drilled forged rods.

There's no need for the oil groove so why they use one who knows.

Jury not still out. Seen it several times.. (DM)
severe rapid small end bush wear - small end rattle as a consequence

as for oil groove.. OE deem its a good idea.. The stupid idea is to put a hole in the top of the rod also..
a channel is created for the oil to fill and flow out of.. Good for many many 1000's of miles as std..

the reality is most rod manufacturers seem to make them as initially non RD.. and post process them to RD.. so they have both the holes for non RD "splash lube" + RD..

I'm sure there are some makes which are just designed to be RD.. Pauter perhaps.. Been a long time since I looked at a Pauter rod
 
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I've had DM in mine, for 3 1/2 years now, and it's all good, but my car is driven VERY hard and spends it's entire life at 5-7k rpm.

Many others who used their cars more frequently in general road use and lower RPM's suffered failures after worryingly short periods of time.

if built mine again I'd avoid the DM rods.
 
I was trying to be diplomatic, lol.

For the extra £100 it makes sense to just go IE.

Nick, you just love any excuse to bounce off the rev limiter :p
 
I've had DM in mine, for 3 1/2 years now, and it's all good, but my car is driven VERY hard and spends it's entire life at 5-7k rpm.

Many others who used their cars more frequently in general road use and lower RPM's suffered failures after worryingly short periods of time.

if built mine again I'd avoid the DM rods.
I'd deffo avoid if I could. It was an expensive mistake for me. Brutes/ Pauter/ or IE

I miss my brutes..
 

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