a new full motor from audi factory in germany as not held in uk stock will cost you just over £7k plus vat...
2.0T S Line Special Edition 2006, is it worth me doing these modifications?
- Thread starter Nozrul Islam
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I'm possibly seeing Alex from the forums here later on today for some VCDS applications... So far I can only think of dipping mirrors when reverse is engaged, Alarm connected to the horn, needle sweep and few others, Alex will give me full option of what is available when I go there but just wondered if any you guys had it done and if so what was it ... Engine is 8E
dipping mirrors on reverse is not an changeable option on b7 , i'm running my weekly vcds scan this afternoon to make sure nothing untowards is going on , thus far not had any issues for a fair while now.
turned off seal belt chime a while ago aswell, along with lights left on alarm.
turned off seal belt chime a while ago aswell, along with lights left on alarm.
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Oh dear, the only real thing I was looking forward to (mirror dipping) is not possible.
Rob, what's the lights left on alarm? Is it like when you arm /disarm headlights come in for brief moment?
Rob, what's the lights left on alarm? Is it like when you arm /disarm headlights come in for brief moment?
on mine when I used to switch off the ig, then open the door to get out , for a fuel stop etc , if the lights were still on you got a dull tone until you shut the door or turned them off, the same if you left you indicator down and got out , i'd get an this darn alarm tone , some people may like it but I don't , and certainly don't need a buzzer to remind me.....
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What about needle sweep? Battery voltage? Alarm arming /disarm tone, Alarm to sound through the horn as the siren is barely noticeable. What are the best ones available on our cars?
I've learned to live with the that Carl as well as the beep when the lights are left on so not really fussed about these now.
I've learned to live with the that Carl as well as the beep when the lights are left on so not really fussed about these now.
No needle sweep for definite as for battery I don't know
The one thing I want is oil temp like on the RS
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The one thing I want is oil temp like on the RS
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nope, better to just get out and drive it , enjoy that performance a bit more, forget about all the techy stuff.
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David Withers
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Nice but for me it's £350 that mine doesn't need.
If I had an RS4 then maybe, I think it's a bit too sporty.
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If I had an RS4 then maybe, I think it's a bit too sporty.
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Not sure if it will fit as it's listed as A3... You are talking about the one from car Auto zones?
ah - I though I had a problem with the alarm/fob (my old B6 had one click)
but it is a "feature" - seems weird when all the doors lock after 5mph anyway
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David Withers
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cam follow is straight forward, DV can be a right pain in the bottom to do, there's the easy way or the difficult way.
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06H145710D Diveter valve - £56.40 inc VAT
06D109309C Cam follower - £33.00 inc VAT
WHT005184 Seal - £9.00 incVAT
£9 for a piece of rubber! Absolutely ridiculous but hey if it needs it...
Rob, easy way please.... Please advise
06D109309C Cam follower - £33.00 inc VAT
WHT005184 Seal - £9.00 incVAT
£9 for a piece of rubber! Absolutely ridiculous but hey if it needs it...
Rob, easy way please.... Please advise
David Withers
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3 possible methods chap.
1) from above , not the best method but doable but expect scrapped knuckles etc and hair pulling at times, probably the most awkward method and time consuming.
2) from underneath, doable with car on axle stand but much easier if up in the air on a proper lift, certainly a far eaisier method and if on a lift piece off cake.
and the best way, get a garage to do it but it will cost you a few pounds , but maybe worth it to save the hassle.
plenty of youtube vids on the job, have a look and take you choice .
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What do you think labour Wise an hour?
The cam follower I reckon I can do but too be honest I'm too old and lazy to sod about with the other one.
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I really want that steering wheel, I am doing a collection to fund this, so people please donate generously!!! It's for a good cause after all!!!
Bit undecided between the two though as not sure which will suit nicer
Bit undecided between the two though as not sure which will suit nicer
the dv is turbo specific it would appear, if you have a BUL engine then the turbo is part number 06D145701J so you need to use the revision D valve, rev G valve is for turbo's
06D145701 B/C
06D145701 F/G
06D145701H
I did query this with audi directly and it is correct, and, there is a good reason for the differing parts, the BUL only uses J version turbo with d rev valve, and there have been issues with owners using other rev valves and probs with the turbo occurring so they are not recommending using other revision valves on the 220 BUL unit.
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they may well all fit and work ok but it does appear to be odd that only the d rev valve is used with the j version turbo/manifold assembly found fitted to the BUL unit, sort of implies more of a tuning based match compared to the other turbo engines, or maybe just an oddity, not really sure to be honest except audi don't recommend using a different dv rev with the J version turbo assembly.
I have a d rev valve which was fitted by audi last year along with new turbo and ancillarty parts, not had any probs since, car goes like stink...
I have a d rev valve which was fitted by audi last year along with new turbo and ancillarty parts, not had any probs since, car goes like stink...
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Does that mean there's a possibility mine already has the rev d valve being a BUL engine? I guess I'll soon find out?
Rob, where did you get your remap done? And what stage?
Rob, where did you get your remap done? And what stage?
very good chance of that, but nothings set in stone , if its the original then it will be the correct one.
mine had already been mapped to stage one by the first owner, I had it remapped with a better torque output more than overall bhp, so more of a improved remap.
factory figures were 220 ps( 217HP ), 300nm , from memory I think it was 250ps with 350nm but i'm on 250ps( 247hp) and 380nm now and more than happy with it.
mine had already been mapped to stage one by the first owner, I had it remapped with a better torque output more than overall bhp, so more of a improved remap.
factory figures were 220 ps( 217HP ), 300nm , from memory I think it was 250ps with 350nm but i'm on 250ps( 247hp) and 380nm now and more than happy with it.
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Okay just out of curiosity, if it is the rev d already fitted.... Then do I really need to replace it?
if its worn out and after almost 10 years and a fair few miles it most certainly wont be in the best of condition now, but as you have already purchased a new one change it and get the most from your engine and turbo , its probably well over due to be replaced now anyway even if it is not showing any signs of failing yet.
here you go, a bit of extra info for you, includes updates for the BUL engine.
"Tuning the 2.0 TFSi engine"
Due to concerns about emissions and tighter controls the 2.0 TFSi engine was born and contains a number of major revisions to enhance engine efficiency. The 1.8T engine was retired and replaced with a more powerful turbo charged 2.0 FSi unit.
The most notable revision is the introduction of direct injection allowing very fine control over fueling and as well as the extra economy on offer the engine provides a lot of extra performance. Because the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder it has the effect of cooling the intake charge, reducing the risk of detonation and allowing much higher cylinder pressures to be used. Plus the fuel delivery can be very precisely controlled and trimmed to suit engine load.
Direct injection has been a major enhancement to diesel engines and it is nice to see this innovation finding its way into petrol engines.
Variants of the 2.0 TFSi find their way across the entire Audi range and this is certainly the petrol engine of choice. Power levels ranged from 197bhp to 265bhp depending on the model with the S3 and TT getting the top power versions.
A few engines had minor internal revisions and slightly altered compression ratios, the 220bhp BUL engine (from the Limited Edition Quattro) is a good example and these respond better to custom remaps than standard engines.
For serious power gains on the TFSi you are looking at an uprated fuel pump (the S3 injectors are a good upgrade option on tuned 2.0TFSi engines to deliver the fuel), sports cat and manifold, cat back exhaust system, high flow air intake and a remap. The weak spots which we will highlight below can be easily remedied and avoided if watched. We do recommend the addition of an uprated non atmospheric diverter valve for mild tuning and standard cars because the original units were not that reliable.
With just a remap on a stock engine you can raise the power from the baseline 200bhp or 220bhp to around 240bhp and although an uprated diverter valve is recommended it is not an essential. Making the remap a very cost effective way to add more power. Adding the other performance parts you should be able to hit the 280bhp mark and if you uprate the turbo to a KO4 unit you should reach around the 350bhp mark fairly easily. A bigger Garret turbo unit would be required if you want to achieve power figures around the 300-600bhp mark.
The 2.0 TFSi is a very powerful and efficient engine with a couple of potential weak spots to keep an eye on.
Cambelt changes should happen at least every 5 years and we would recommend annual oil changes, the recommended long life service is very convenient but you want to keep the car in top condition bear in mind that oil does degrade and pick up contaminants.
To keep your engine in perfect condition you must use the correct grade of oil and stick to a premium brand of fully synthetic. If your garage recommend a semi synthetic or worse still something that isn't 5w30 or VW503 00, VW503 01 or VW504 00 specific you don't really want to let them near your car.
The 2.0 TFSi engines provide excellent efficiency turning every drop of fuel in power which is good for economy but there are 2 well documented problems to look out for. Regard these items as service items rather than a manufacturing defect and as long as you check them you should have no trouble at all.
Cam follower wear.
The main weak spot is the cam follower located below the high pressure mechanical fuel pump. it has a low friction coating on it a bit like "Teflon". The follower resembles a thimble that sits on the bottom of the fuel pump. Check this every few years or at 30,000 miles for wear.
This fault was altered in later models with a different cam lobe set up, for example the 220bhp BUL engines are not affected by this issue.
You are looking out for the coating wearing off, if it has worn down and exposes a metal surface this causes very quick wear through the follower and damages the cam shaft. The first you'll know about it is in lost fuel pump pressure and a check engine warning light coming on. It is a simple check that most drivers can perform. Be very careful about the extremely high fuel pump pressures and ensure the pressure is released from the system, a jet of fuel at this pressure could potentially cut through bone or at the very least cause major injury!
Carbon Build up.
The other commonly reported problem is that of carbon build up on the valves caused by the direct injection, Although it is a common issue with engines of this type the V6 and V8 engines are more prone due to their lower RPM characteristics. The build up happens because the fuel is not being injected over the valves and this would keep the valves nice and clean.
When the engine is cold the unburned particles are dumped back into the intake, and it is these that foul up the intake. So avoiding short journeys and making sure the engine gets up to operating temperature as quickly as possible will prevent this issue.
After 70,000 miles a decoke is recommended, it does depend on the sort of driving you do though. Adding BG44K to the fuel once a year will keep the engine, injectors and exhaust nice and clean but sadly wont clean the intake valves. With the rest of the engine performing well the carbon build up is substantially reduced.
A full BG intake clean performed by a specialist with the correct equipment will do a fantastic job of restoring lost performance. If you are not making the power figures you expect then you are probably suffering from this issue.
Larger capacity direct injection engines are even more prone to carbon build up issues. The carbon build up will rob you of power rather than do any major damage but cleaning out the head will dramatically increase the performance and economy. (An addition of BG44K to my engine raised the average MPG from 31.4 to 37 mpg for a similar journey. AND I HAVE NOT BEEN PAID TO SAY THIS. It shows how clogged the injectors were in my 70,000 mile 220bhp TFSi engine.)
We have not seen evidence that proves that water/alcohol injection cleans the intake valves with some owners of water injection engines still having the carbon build up issue (biofuels like alcohol are not recommended on FSI engines anyway). Breather catch tanks are also suggested as a prevention of this problem but again we have heard of owners with these devices still suffering from Carbon build up.
They say prevention is better than cure so what can be done to prevent this carbon build up issue. Using good quality clean burn fuel free of bio elements, the higher octane fuels also tend to burn cleaner. Get the engine up to temperature as soon as you can (don't idle it but just drive it steadily at around 2000rpm till it warms up) and keep the engine operating at 3000rpm for 15 minutes per week. At this RPM range the engine is designed to run hotter and this can help burn off some of the carbon deposits.
Keep an eye on the recirculation valve, the oil this sprays into the intake when it goes is cited as a major cause of the carbon build up. If you notice high oil consumption then get this valve checked ASAP. (TorqueCars regards high oil consumption as over 0.5 litres per 1000 miles.)
Cleaning the head is most effectively done by removal and refitting but due to the expense we'd recommend you get the head flowed and ported whilst it is off. We have seen some excellent results from intake cleaners that are sprayed at high pressure into the intake, these are not DIY sprays though. An inspection probe through the intake or via the spark plugs will give an indication on the state of carbon build up allowing you to make an informed decision.
The DIY spray cans of carbon cleaner do at best a minor job, the trick is delivering the cleaner evenly to all of the valves you'll typically see the cylinders closest to the vacuum line getting the most benefit from these. For best results take off the intake manifold and spray the cleaner directly onto the problem area and leave it to soak in. (Always follow the manufacturers instructions though, I don't doubt that some formulations should be left on for long periods of time.)
Driving the engine at just over 3000 RPM raises the temperature and puts the engine into a "cleaning mode" where it runs leaner and hotter clearing out a lot of the carbon build up inside the engine, so try to hit this sweet spot as often as you can and for at least 15 minutes per week.
"Tuning the 2.0 TFSi engine"
Due to concerns about emissions and tighter controls the 2.0 TFSi engine was born and contains a number of major revisions to enhance engine efficiency. The 1.8T engine was retired and replaced with a more powerful turbo charged 2.0 FSi unit.
The most notable revision is the introduction of direct injection allowing very fine control over fueling and as well as the extra economy on offer the engine provides a lot of extra performance. Because the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder it has the effect of cooling the intake charge, reducing the risk of detonation and allowing much higher cylinder pressures to be used. Plus the fuel delivery can be very precisely controlled and trimmed to suit engine load.
Direct injection has been a major enhancement to diesel engines and it is nice to see this innovation finding its way into petrol engines.
Variants of the 2.0 TFSi find their way across the entire Audi range and this is certainly the petrol engine of choice. Power levels ranged from 197bhp to 265bhp depending on the model with the S3 and TT getting the top power versions.
A few engines had minor internal revisions and slightly altered compression ratios, the 220bhp BUL engine (from the Limited Edition Quattro) is a good example and these respond better to custom remaps than standard engines.
For serious power gains on the TFSi you are looking at an uprated fuel pump (the S3 injectors are a good upgrade option on tuned 2.0TFSi engines to deliver the fuel), sports cat and manifold, cat back exhaust system, high flow air intake and a remap. The weak spots which we will highlight below can be easily remedied and avoided if watched. We do recommend the addition of an uprated non atmospheric diverter valve for mild tuning and standard cars because the original units were not that reliable.
With just a remap on a stock engine you can raise the power from the baseline 200bhp or 220bhp to around 240bhp and although an uprated diverter valve is recommended it is not an essential. Making the remap a very cost effective way to add more power. Adding the other performance parts you should be able to hit the 280bhp mark and if you uprate the turbo to a KO4 unit you should reach around the 350bhp mark fairly easily. A bigger Garret turbo unit would be required if you want to achieve power figures around the 300-600bhp mark.
The 2.0 TFSi is a very powerful and efficient engine with a couple of potential weak spots to keep an eye on.
Cambelt changes should happen at least every 5 years and we would recommend annual oil changes, the recommended long life service is very convenient but you want to keep the car in top condition bear in mind that oil does degrade and pick up contaminants.
To keep your engine in perfect condition you must use the correct grade of oil and stick to a premium brand of fully synthetic. If your garage recommend a semi synthetic or worse still something that isn't 5w30 or VW503 00, VW503 01 or VW504 00 specific you don't really want to let them near your car.
The 2.0 TFSi engines provide excellent efficiency turning every drop of fuel in power which is good for economy but there are 2 well documented problems to look out for. Regard these items as service items rather than a manufacturing defect and as long as you check them you should have no trouble at all.
Cam follower wear.
The main weak spot is the cam follower located below the high pressure mechanical fuel pump. it has a low friction coating on it a bit like "Teflon". The follower resembles a thimble that sits on the bottom of the fuel pump. Check this every few years or at 30,000 miles for wear.
This fault was altered in later models with a different cam lobe set up, for example the 220bhp BUL engines are not affected by this issue.
You are looking out for the coating wearing off, if it has worn down and exposes a metal surface this causes very quick wear through the follower and damages the cam shaft. The first you'll know about it is in lost fuel pump pressure and a check engine warning light coming on. It is a simple check that most drivers can perform. Be very careful about the extremely high fuel pump pressures and ensure the pressure is released from the system, a jet of fuel at this pressure could potentially cut through bone or at the very least cause major injury!
Carbon Build up.
The other commonly reported problem is that of carbon build up on the valves caused by the direct injection, Although it is a common issue with engines of this type the V6 and V8 engines are more prone due to their lower RPM characteristics. The build up happens because the fuel is not being injected over the valves and this would keep the valves nice and clean.
When the engine is cold the unburned particles are dumped back into the intake, and it is these that foul up the intake. So avoiding short journeys and making sure the engine gets up to operating temperature as quickly as possible will prevent this issue.
After 70,000 miles a decoke is recommended, it does depend on the sort of driving you do though. Adding BG44K to the fuel once a year will keep the engine, injectors and exhaust nice and clean but sadly wont clean the intake valves. With the rest of the engine performing well the carbon build up is substantially reduced.
A full BG intake clean performed by a specialist with the correct equipment will do a fantastic job of restoring lost performance. If you are not making the power figures you expect then you are probably suffering from this issue.
Larger capacity direct injection engines are even more prone to carbon build up issues. The carbon build up will rob you of power rather than do any major damage but cleaning out the head will dramatically increase the performance and economy. (An addition of BG44K to my engine raised the average MPG from 31.4 to 37 mpg for a similar journey. AND I HAVE NOT BEEN PAID TO SAY THIS. It shows how clogged the injectors were in my 70,000 mile 220bhp TFSi engine.)
We have not seen evidence that proves that water/alcohol injection cleans the intake valves with some owners of water injection engines still having the carbon build up issue (biofuels like alcohol are not recommended on FSI engines anyway). Breather catch tanks are also suggested as a prevention of this problem but again we have heard of owners with these devices still suffering from Carbon build up.
They say prevention is better than cure so what can be done to prevent this carbon build up issue. Using good quality clean burn fuel free of bio elements, the higher octane fuels also tend to burn cleaner. Get the engine up to temperature as soon as you can (don't idle it but just drive it steadily at around 2000rpm till it warms up) and keep the engine operating at 3000rpm for 15 minutes per week. At this RPM range the engine is designed to run hotter and this can help burn off some of the carbon deposits.
Keep an eye on the recirculation valve, the oil this sprays into the intake when it goes is cited as a major cause of the carbon build up. If you notice high oil consumption then get this valve checked ASAP. (TorqueCars regards high oil consumption as over 0.5 litres per 1000 miles.)
Cleaning the head is most effectively done by removal and refitting but due to the expense we'd recommend you get the head flowed and ported whilst it is off. We have seen some excellent results from intake cleaners that are sprayed at high pressure into the intake, these are not DIY sprays though. An inspection probe through the intake or via the spark plugs will give an indication on the state of carbon build up allowing you to make an informed decision.
The DIY spray cans of carbon cleaner do at best a minor job, the trick is delivering the cleaner evenly to all of the valves you'll typically see the cylinders closest to the vacuum line getting the most benefit from these. For best results take off the intake manifold and spray the cleaner directly onto the problem area and leave it to soak in. (Always follow the manufacturers instructions though, I don't doubt that some formulations should be left on for long periods of time.)
Driving the engine at just over 3000 RPM raises the temperature and puts the engine into a "cleaning mode" where it runs leaner and hotter clearing out a lot of the carbon build up inside the engine, so try to hit this sweet spot as often as you can and for at least 15 minutes per week.
Rob r-tech which in my eyes is one of the leading uk tuning companies recommended to use the G revision no matter which engine or model of the tfsi, this in my eyes is good enough ground to do so, on top of that though the tfsi tuning scene favour the G over the D, I did quite a bit of research in this and that's why I chose the D, but each to their own, just my views of course.
The G been a diaphragm based setup seals better and offers a faster reaction timeX the draw back is the diaphragm is prone to splitting but only after several 0000 miles, the D is plastic based so can leak boost and be slower to react.
The G been a diaphragm based setup seals better and offers a faster reaction timeX the draw back is the diaphragm is prone to splitting but only after several 0000 miles, the D is plastic based so can leak boost and be slower to react.
yep, not disagreeing with you dani, but it doesn't look like from the parts info I have been through that the BUL ever had the g rev item anyway, I've even looked at the discontinued parts and they don't apply to the BUL unit. it list the other engines and discontinued parts etc with the g rev but not the bul engine.
From my point of view , my avant has allways been rapid, certainly no issues from a DV point of view and never have been, the turbo died but nothing was wrong with the DV, I think if I fitted a g rev or something else I wouldn't see any difference to be honest.
I can honestly say that when I press my right foot down, the car just goes, no messing around or lag, lack of boost etc and its allways been that way, i'm surprised I haven't had any points yet ..lol
maybe a good idea to try another similar spec car with a g rev dv or similar in it to see if there is any noticible difference.
From my point of view , my avant has allways been rapid, certainly no issues from a DV point of view and never have been, the turbo died but nothing was wrong with the DV, I think if I fitted a g rev or something else I wouldn't see any difference to be honest.
I can honestly say that when I press my right foot down, the car just goes, no messing around or lag, lack of boost etc and its allways been that way, i'm surprised I haven't had any points yet ..lol
maybe a good idea to try another similar spec car with a g rev dv or similar in it to see if there is any noticible difference.
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Dani, have you noticed a difference when you chose the D valve?
I'm just wondering if the GFB DV+ would have been a better choice?
I'm just wondering if the GFB DV+ would have been a better choice?
I do think it is very easy to become a bit carried away with performance gains to be honest, we all want to extract as much performance as possible and gain the best handling we can but are some mods really worth the cost given the way you can really drive them on our overcrowded roads etc, I don't thik they are.
Doing trackdays etc is fine and great fun for all and mods do make a difference but for normal road driving, i'm not sure the difference between the DV valves is really that noticible unless you are driving like a mad person , I love power and don't pottle around by anymeans but I don't think I will really see any difference, 250bhp at the moment with 0-60 in sub 6.9 ish is more than enough for my current road usage from my A4 old bus, if it's not broke don't fix it comes to mind .
i'll stick with the way it is and just carry on doing the essential maintance and mods worth doing for my benefit, just my opinion that is.
Doing trackdays etc is fine and great fun for all and mods do make a difference but for normal road driving, i'm not sure the difference between the DV valves is really that noticible unless you are driving like a mad person , I love power and don't pottle around by anymeans but I don't think I will really see any difference, 250bhp at the moment with 0-60 in sub 6.9 ish is more than enough for my current road usage from my A4 old bus, if it's not broke don't fix it comes to mind .
i'll stick with the way it is and just carry on doing the essential maintance and mods worth doing for my benefit, just my opinion that is.
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Totally agree Rob, I don't do anything other than normal driving on the normal roads. The stock tune on my car is more then adequate for my needs however was only looking at remaps solely for MPG, and off course more power wouldn't go a miss although I probably never use that given the mileage I cover on this car. I was looking at performance panel filter not for BHP gains but more MPG and a bit more deeper sound from the engine and again there's mixed views on that subject as some seem to think it is better just to replace the OEM paper filter annually.
In the meantime I'll just keep it simple without confusing myself even more and just fit the OEM DV Valve and the Cam follower and whatever actually needs replacing in the future.
One thing I'm certain though definitely replacing the steering wheel!
In the meantime I'll just keep it simple without confusing myself even more and just fit the OEM DV Valve and the Cam follower and whatever actually needs replacing in the future.
One thing I'm certain though definitely replacing the steering wheel!
